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Old 07-16-2019, 09:56 AM
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Rear Axle Opinion

Looking for any input or experience with the listed axles. I'm planning to swap in a new rear crate axle. My options are:


G2 Rear Rock Jock Dana 60 ARB Locker 5x5 with beefier wheel bearings.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52462_210X_PG.htm


G2 Rear Rock Jock Dana 60 ARB Locker 5x5 with stock sized wheel bearings.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/g2-axle-...r-unlimited-jk


Currie Rear Rock Jock 60 5x5, E Locker
https://www.quadratec.com/p/currie-e...ep-wrangler-jk


1 question, can these axles be upgraded later to support an 8 lug wheel? I'd say thats the ultimate goal to eventually throw a ton on the front. I see that the g2's use the same Currie center section.

Thanks for any input.

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Old 07-16-2019, 10:01 AM   #2
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To change over to 8 lug, you'd need new axle shafts and brakes.

The question you have to ask the manufacturer is whether they have the parts that go with their axle to support the swap. Or if there are other suppliers who can sell you the parts.

Alternately, you could stash the money away for a while on the rear axle and wait until you do the front and just get both in 8 lug at the same time.

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Old 07-16-2019, 10:53 AM   #3
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I get wanting to keep the stock 5x5 pattern. But to go with a D60 that is 5x5 makes no sense to me. Those are all Semi-Float axles because the 5x5 wheel isnt big enough to fit the full float hubs. Go 8 lug and go full float for a Dana 60, any other way just seems like half-assing it.

Otherwise, I would just get rear 35 spline shafts, truss, and lock the stock 44.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:38 AM   #4
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I don't have experience with any of those axles. We went with the Teraflex CRD 60 semi.

As far as the semi-float making no sense, we broke the rear ring/pinion on our '14 JKUR (37s w/4.88) right when we started planning our '18 build. So we decided to do the Teraflex CRD 60 in back mainly for the ring/pinion size.






When we were considering the upgrade, Stock Housing:
ARB Locker- $1000
Shafts- $500
Truss- $250 plus labor
Gears- $300 plus labor ($1000 total for us)

In our case it was about $2800 to beef of the JK housing. Plus the down time to weld truss. The 1k cost difference got us bigger/stronger tubes, larger ring/pinion, better bearings, stronger brackets, etc.

So are the stronger axle and larger ring/pinion worth the price difference to you as an upgrade? If so, do a 60. If not then beef up your 44. Or you can do a 14 bolt/Sterling junkyard build for even less.

Keep in mind you'll need a compressor if going ARB, and a drive shaft (they were on our list either way.)

Good luck!
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Blue Baby Sound View Post
I don't have experience with any of those axles. We went with the Teraflex CRD 60 semi.

As far as the semi-float making no sense, we broke the rear ring/pinion on our '14 JKUR (37s w/4.88) right when we started planning our '18 build. So we decided to do the Teraflex CRD 60 in back mainly for the ring/pinion size.






When we were considering the upgrade, Stock Housing:
ARB Locker- $1000
Shafts- $500
Truss- $250 plus labor
Gears- $300 plus labor ($1000 total for us)

In our case it was about $2800 to beef of the JK housing. Plus the down time to weld truss. The 1k cost difference got us bigger/stronger tubes, larger ring/pinion, better bearings, stronger brackets, etc.

So are the stronger axle and larger ring/pinion worth the price difference to you as an upgrade? If so, do a 60. If not then beef up your 44. Or you can do a 14 bolt/Sterling junkyard build for even less.

Keep in mind you'll need a compressor if going ARB, and a drive shaft (they were on our list either way.)

Good luck!
The vast majority of the time people bend flanges. No matter how beefy your 44 or 60 is those flanges still bend.

The smart money is to roll with the D44. Get aftermarket axle shafts with a good warranty like Ten Factory or Carbon Offroad.

Or, jump up to a full float axle.
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Old 07-17-2019, 12:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGrendel View Post
The vast majority of the time people bend flanges. No matter how beefy your 44 or 60 is those flanges still bend.

The smart money is to roll with the D44. Get aftermarket axle shafts with a good warranty like Ten Factory or Carbon Offroad.

Or, jump up to a full float axle.
That may be true, but personally I've only bent stock flanges, never a chromoly shaft's flange. I've even broken a Revolution 4340 shaft on our D44 rear in the '14, but never a bent chromoly shaft flange..

This Jeep won't go over a 37" tire unless Jamboree rules change, if I were building for a bigger tire I would agree to going full float. The 60 still gives me stronger r/p, axle, brackets, etc. For us it was worth it to keep the factory 5x5 bolt pattern and be able to do an aftermarket 44 front instead of 60.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:06 AM   #7
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Chromoly shaft flanges will indeed bend.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:20 AM   #8
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Chromoly shaft flanges will indeed bend.
Oh I'm sure they will, just saying it hasn't happened to me yet. I don't think I know anyone that's bent one either...?? But I'm sure they'll bend.
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:12 AM   #9
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I know the OP hasn't returned to the thread. But, if he does or anyone else is interested, this is a pretty hard deal to pass up.

https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-sto...cks-p139632055
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:33 AM   #10
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If you are going to D60 go full float 8 lug right from the start. Non full float will still bend the axle flange.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:13 AM   #11
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I agree, go full float.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
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That may be true, but personally I've only bent stock flanges, never a chromoly shaft's flange. I've even broken a Revolution 4340 shaft on our D44 rear in the '14, but never a bent chromoly shaft flange..

This Jeep won't go over a 37" tire unless Jamboree rules change, if I were building for a bigger tire I would agree to going full float. The 60 still gives me stronger r/p, axle, brackets, etc. For us it was worth it to keep the factory 5x5 bolt pattern and be able to do an aftermarket 44 front instead of 60.
FYI on if your talking Jeep jamboree, you can go 40's with permission.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:39 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I think I might just go RockJock D44 for the rear end for now, and if I decide down the road to go 60's - do it right with 8lug.

Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2019, 02:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by omGoddard View Post
Thanks for all the input. I think I might just go RockJock D44 for the rear end for now, and if I decide down the road to go 60's - do it right with 8lug.

Thanks!
Why waste money on another 44 in the rear?
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:01 PM   #15
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:15 PM
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Why waste money on another 44 in the rear?

Not ready to dump $ for a front matching 60 and new wheels all around. Rear 44 is stock open one from factory and its about to shit the bed. This will work for now until (if i ever) go 60's.
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Old 07-25-2019, 03:37 PM   #17
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Not ready to dump $ for a front matching 60 and new wheels all around. Rear 44 is stock open one from factory and its about to shit the bed. This will work for now until (if i ever) go 60's.
getting back to this. in your case, i would recommend a semifloat 60 for the rear rather than a RJ44. why? because it is stronger and you'll get more of your money back on it when you decide to go full floats. Fusion 4x4 semifloat 60 can be had for under 4K.

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