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Old 10-29-2018, 09:39 AM
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Ring and Pinion to a 4.56 ratio

Does anyone know what type of oil is used for the front and rear axles. I have a 2011 JKU with the dana 30 front axle and dana 44 rear axle. I'm going to be changing the gear ratio and obviously will need new gear oil. So if anyone knows what type of oil is used for this please let me know. After doing a quick search I found the Royal Purple oil and the rear axles use about 3 quarts of that but not too sure about the front axles.

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Old 10-29-2018, 10:18 AM   #2
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80W-90 is the norm. Towing 75W140. If you have a clutch type limited Slip Diff (LSD) you will need to have either lube with friction modifier or get the small bottle of additive. Most brands now have modifier in it.

If you are adding TrueTracs, then no modifier should be used. BTW, kinda a PITA to find. IIRC Front is 1.3 and rear is 2.1qts. Buy 4 and you will be golden. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the dif. Then open the fill plug and fill until it comes out.

Notes:
1) Lube specs are different than motor oil. The "W" stands for winter, in 80w90: 80 is cold and 90 is warm. If you live in extreme cold areas you want the first number low. If you tow or in a high temp (ie AZ) you want the second number to be higher. I tow, live in WY (low but not extreme low winter temps) but I use 75W140 to cover all bases.

2) When adding lube, it is way thicker than motor oil. When the level gets near the top of the fill hole, squeezing the bottle hard will add way more than is needed. Imagine a slow thick wave hitting the shore. Once this "wave" hits the fill port it will drain and drain and drain. The first time I did it, I wasted a good few oz.

3) When regearing you will have a break in period, usually 500miles. Then the fluids will need to be changed again. So I would buy some lower cost lube, then refill with "the good stuff"

4) When the guys did my regear, I also bought lube locker gaskets. This way when I did my own post break-in change, I could take the covers off and do a visual inspection. Just to look for weird stuff.

5) Unless the lube label says either "LSD require additive" or "top-off LSD only" then the lube will have modifier in it already. Putting lube with additive in a open diff (no LSD) will not hurt anything. People like me with TrueTracs have to search for non-modifer or pay $$$ for MOPAR lube.

6) The gear change is not as simple as taking the old out and slapping new in. Clearances, shimming, pressing bearings in etc was more than what I was willing to do. I have heard plenty of DIY'ers do it fine, but there are a few that have had not so much luck. I paid $900 for the ease of having someone that knows the tricks to do it faster and then someone to holler at if some thing went wrong.
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:15 AM   #3
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I agree with what WillyD said. I would add that you should listen to whomever is doing the gear swap and use the gear oil they tell you to, at least to start with. Since they are the ones standing behind their work (presumably), they should be the ones telling you what oil to use. They typically do the first fill, then at around 500 miles you either take it back to them for an oil change or you can do the oil yourself. I always seem to end up doing the gear oil myself, but each time a swear that next time I will pay someone to do it. Gear oil has a nasty smell that I hate. And that smell invariably gets everywhere.
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
I agree with what WillyD said. I would add that you should listen to whomever is doing the gear swap and use the gear oil they tell you to, at least to start with. Since they are the ones standing behind their work (presumably), they should be the ones telling you what oil to use. They typically do the first fill, then at around 500 miles you either take it back to them for an oil change or you can do the oil yourself. I always seem to end up doing the gear oil myself, but each time a swear that next time I will pay someone to do it. Gear oil has a nasty smell that I hate. And that smell invariably gets everywhere.
Having changed my own many times, yeah the smell is strong but it goes away a day after I recycle the oil. Just use a good catch can and don't let any hit the floor. Spray off the housing with break cleaner to clean up any excess.

Also OP, I am assuming you are lifted. You will not be able to use the fill hole as an indicator that it is full. The lift changes the angle and you end up with less then needed.
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