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Old 01-31-2020, 01:26 AM
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Rough running engine, Oil in air filter box

Searched everywhere on the internet and couldn’t find anyone with a situation like mine. Here’s what happened. Bought a salvage title Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 2015 6 speed with 45,000 miles lightly wrecked. Only replaced the front bumper, changed airbags and the AC compressor clutch. Cat got a small puncture but got it welded shut. Changed the oil and filter as soon as I got the Jeep fixed and it ran perfect, no check engine light. Drove it for around a month, put maybe 2-3k miles on it and then I notice on idles it became a little more rough than normal. Thought ok it might be an engine or tranny mount since it was wrecked in the front and it could of got messed up. No check engine light at the point. So I continue to drive the car despite a slight vibration on idle. Week and a half later, check engine light pops up while driving back home.. pull the code and it’s a P0430. Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). Thought that was strange, but realistic since the cat got punctured. Maybe it got clogged or an 02 sensor got messed up. Continued to drive it for another week and a half with the CEL on but no issues, except the same slight vibration on idle. Started driving back home one night and noticed the engine started rougher and began vibrating even more than it previously had. During the drive I notice the engine was sputtering and sure enough I get a flashing CEL light, I keep driving for another minute and it stops flashing so I continue to drive home. Next day I pull the codes and get a random misfire code, along with a P06DD. My reader didn’t even pull the description of the code so I pulled it online and it’s a (engine oil pressure control circuit stuck off). At this point my Jeep is starting very rough and idling with an aggressive vibration. You can visually see the car vibrate. I checked the oil level and it was normal level and color. At this point I buy my cat 02 sensor and install it, doesn’t help anything. I check my air filter next, and that’s when I knew something was very wrong. There was a foamy milky oily coat around the top of the air filter. I take it off and sure enough there’s a little pool of oil at the bottom of the housing. (Uploaded picture). No oil around the MAF sensor part of the housing but I do notice a more than usual amount of oil at the throttle body flap. But that’s not where the pool of oil is coming from. I track it down and it turns out the oil is coming from a rubber hose coming from the back of the engine. Called the makeup air hose. (Last picture, hose beside alternator). Is there any hope for this engine or do you guys think that someone overheated the engine from the wreck? When I got the Jeep the belt was ripped. Can anyone help me out, give me any insight, recommendations? Should I start with changing spark plugs or coil packs? Has anyone ever had these issues? Going to check the compression in a couple days. I appreciate any help

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Old 01-31-2020, 01:32 AM
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I mentioned the top of the air filter had oil on it. It was only the bottom edge. The filter wasnt soaked, but wet on the bottom edge where it would run off from the makeup airline connection. Sorry for the double post.

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Old 01-31-2020, 03:11 AM   #3
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On last picture is PCV valve intake hose , at idle close the hose with your tumb should feel a little vacuum pull. If no vacuum or back blow PCV valve isnt good.
Bad PCV can redirect extra air or extra oil into the intake that will lower octane and mess up fuel/air ratio.
Cat converter easy diagnostics - shoot it with an IR thermometer compare with the good one.
Also check passenger motor mount might be damaged from the accident.
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Old 01-31-2020, 05:04 AM   #4
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to the forum. I'd replace the PCV valve, with an OE part, and definitely run a wet and dry compression test. Make sure when you run the compression test the throttle is fully open.
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Old 01-31-2020, 10:37 AM   #5
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Welcome to the Forum.

WOW..that is not normal! Some in the Forum have reported seeing a little bit of oil, but I have never seen any on mine.

Since your's is a 2015, it still should be covered on your power train warranty.
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Old 01-31-2020, 10:54 AM   #6
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Salvage title = no warranty excess oil in intake = bad PCV. Not to expensive but PIA to replace. Excess oil in intake also can cause cat to plug or coat with oil so it loses efficiency.
PCV might well have been damaged in the accident if engine shifted and crushed it against firewall. I would change PCV and you might save cat by running Some cat cleaner through the system but doubtful and as suggested check motor/trans mounts.
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:47 PM
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Thanks for replies and welcome guys I appreciate it! Ordered the PCV valve. Anyone have any videos or links on how to replace it?
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:48 PM
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I started the car yesterday and the PCV hose blows smoke out of the pipe. It should be sucking air in instead right?
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:51 PM   #9
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Yes, the one connected to the airbox should suck the air.
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Old 01-31-2020, 04:32 PM   #10
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A correction here. There are 2 hoses connected to our engines. The hose that connects to the air box is called a makeup tube (vent tube). In this tube air can move both ways. The other tube that connects to the intake manifold right behind throttle body is the hose connected to the PCV valve.

When the PCV is closed the makeup tube will all crankcase gasses to escape through vent tube. When the PCV is open clean air is pulled through the vent tube into the crankcase and then out the PCV into the intake plenum.
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Old 01-31-2020, 06:24 PM   #11
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Thanks for replies and welcome guys I appreciate it! Ordered the PCV valve. Anyone have any videos or links on how to replace it?

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Old 01-31-2020, 06:38 PM
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I appreciate all of the comments. So I replaced my PCV valve today.. didnít fix anything. When I took it off a few table spoons of oil leaked out. Engine still starts rough and I am getting the random misfire code, catalyst system below threshold, and the P06DD code. What should I do next?

Also concerning the makeup air hose, itís letting out smoke/fumes. The other tube connection to the intake manifold does suck air.
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Old 02-01-2020, 01:50 PM   #13
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Replacing faulty PCV will not correct misfire or cat performance code but should correct the cause. the misfire is more likely caused by oil fouled spark plug and cat problem also by excessive oil in exhaust [PCV] and excessive fuel [misfires]. Might be time to pay dealer to diagnose and not just throw parts and hours chasing a ghost.
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Old 02-01-2020, 07:37 PM   #14
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IIRC the hose that goes to the airbox does not come from the PCV valve. It’s from one of the head covers I believe.
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:40 PM   #15
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Have you don't the compression test yet? Or a cylinder leakdown test? If you pull the dipstick while it's running, does it try to push smoke/vapor out the tube?

Sounds like you're getting excessive blow-by.
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Old 02-04-2020, 03:24 PM
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Yeah looks like smoke/vapor is coming out of the dipstick when it’s running
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Old 02-07-2020, 08:16 PM   #17
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Yeah looks like smoke/vapor is coming out of the dipstick when itís running
To me, that would suggest bad piston rings. Shouldn't be, on a newer engine with 45k miles, but if the collision damaged the oil pan or the previous owner ran it low, the rings / cylinder walls may be scored. A compression or leakdown test would help confirm. A repeat test with some oil in the cylinder would really confirm (differentiates between valve leak and ring leak).
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Old 02-07-2020, 08:55 PM   #18
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P06DD is oil pressure sensor which is on the engine oil filter cooler assembly or you have an issue with your oil pump.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:28 AM
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Did a compression check on bank 2 that showed the random misfires. 50, 90, and 110 and the 3 cylinders. Bank one was 150 psi. Took apart the valve covers and everything looks clean and solid. Looks like I’m gonna be doing an engine swap 😞
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:45 PM   #20
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Did a compression check on bank 2 that showed the random misfires. 50, 90, and 110 and the 3 cylinders. Bank one was 150 psi. Took apart the valve covers and everything looks clean and solid. Looks like I’m gonna be doing an engine swap 😞
Do a cylinder leak check, you may just need a new head.

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