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Old 05-25-2018, 05:39 PM
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Skip a few steps on BJ swap?

I'm going to do a balljoint replacement this weekend (160k miles on a 2011, I live on a bumpy dirt road with 33's, I guess I'm surprised they lasted this long). I noticed on a YouTube video someone taking shortcuts vs what I found in a service manual. Before I do this I just wanted to make sure I wasn't treading into iffy territory:


1) Leave the caliper on the rotor and remove as one after removing the 2 carrier bolts, set on something

2) Leave tie rod connected to steering knuckle and just set them on something

3) Leave hub on axle and just remove as one after removing wheel speed sensor and 3


I have Dynatrac's to replace it with. I removed the zirk from one and it looks like they are pre-greased. Do I need to grease them more? My grease gun doesn't have the right fitting for it...


Any other tips would be appreciated!



R

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Old 05-26-2018, 01:48 AM   #2
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Doesn't sound like a shortcut to me. Just sounds like making the job harder than it is. I would pull the caliper off, hang it without disconnecting line, then just pull the rotor off and set it somewhere. Unbolt the hub/bearing and pull out with the axle, then knock the steering arms off and pull the knuckle. The parts are heavy, leaving them all dangling and attached usually makes things difficult.
As far as the grease fittings, I've never come across one that didn't fit my gun that seems weird?
An easy way to pop the hub free after you unbolt it is to put a socket between the u joint ear and axle tube, and have a helper turn the steering wheel to jam the socket, it presses the hub out of the knuckle real easy!

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Old 05-26-2018, 11:48 PM
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1) The hub/bearing bolts ended up being really badly rusted. One ended up snapping (see picture). Do you think it's worth salvaging the hub? I might be able to find a shop that can drill the hole out for me. At the same time a new hub is only $100 (I'm thinking labor might be that much anyway). I'm going to replace any of the bolts that are fairly corroded.



2) The hub was seized pretty bad and in getting it off a u-joint ended up breaking (I'm guessing it was pretty close to failing regardless, the hammer blow only helped it the last bit of the way). If I'm replacing the OEM u-joints would it be wise to replace axle shafts also? The hub end looks like it has a fair amount of corrosion...



Thanks again for the help!


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H4...Chsbs0uDPjuF4t
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mi...0OOPM5xy6SU5vP
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Old 05-27-2018, 01:43 PM   #4
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I would make sure you use PB Blaster on all the bolts before you try busting them loose. I normally spray anything rusted up a few times a day or so before I try and break them free. With that many miles I would honestly replace both hubs and all the axle u joints while its apart. Cost you another $100 for the other hub and the u joints arent that expensive. Your axles should be fine just wire brush them to get the rust off and make sure the grooves are in good shape. That and get some anti-seize to put back on the bolts you take out. Make it way easier to take it apart later if you need to. Good luck!
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:08 AM   #5
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check your rear flanges, i cant imagine stock flanges are not bent with that many miles.

and really im the same on the short cuts, its only a few bolts to disconnect everything

2 on the calipers, 3 on the unit bearings (12 point 13 mm socket needed- not something everyone has laying around, one big axle nut 36 mm again not a common size to have laying around , and 2 nuts on the tie rod one on the drag link ( ok to leave it connected at the top imo) with lots of miles its not a bad idea to take it all apart and make sure you have proper torque on everything.

and yes pb blaster the heck out it, will help if you've never taken any of it apart, when you reassemble remember to use anti sieze on everything. Ball joints are not that bad at all to DIY,
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