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Old 05-07-2015, 03:43 PM
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Sorry, another tire question...

I have a 2012 JKU (4 door) MW3. 4:10 gears, automatic. It has ONLY been a daily driver and will probably continue to be.

What I want... To just put 35's on it and call it a day. Meaning keep the stock 17" rims....

I really think 35's on a 4 door look best. At some point I may get a lift, but not yet.

So here are the questions:
Is it possible (to just put on 35's with nothing else)?
If not, what mods MUST I DO?
If so, what SHOULD I do (meaning it will rub at full flex, so... you should trim fenders, or should get spacers, etc.).

I understand even a body lift will help and that the best scenario is a lift and tires, but I don't want to spend the money yet on a lift and 5 new tires. But I also don't want to ruin anything. So that is my intent here. Can it be done without a major problem. I also understand the carrier issue with a larger tire.

And while I am asking, should I at least get a body lift to help? Will it do anything to the interior of the jeep (meaning my nephew just got a body lift and his center console is all messed up - older TJ so that could be the issue). I could go with some cheap spacers to help with the 35's as an option if just putting 35's isn't an option.

Appreciate everyone's help as always.

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Old 05-07-2015, 03:53 PM   #2
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You are going to need a set of wheel spacers for sure. I'd buy 1.5" Synergy, Spidertrax or RedRock4x4.

You are also going to need some fender clearance. A 2.5" spacer lift will get you there. I recommend the Rough Country Series II lift as it comes pretty complete and is very economical.

Rough Country 2.5" Series II Suspension Spacer Lift Kit without Shocks - RC-634

If your caster is low after install (some are and some aren't) you add a set of TF Sport LCA's and you are done.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f123/te...t-1191361.html

That's dirt cheap to get in to 35's. I don't recommend going anything less as you will have big rubbing and could tear up fenders, etc.

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Old 05-07-2015, 03:57 PM
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So short answer is no, you just can't slap on 35's....

At minimum spacers and a small lift of some sort are minimum requirements.

Is that correct?

Thank you.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:30 PM   #4
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Some of this depends on which stock coils you have. There is almost a 2.5" difference in ride height between the shortest and tallest stock coils. Check out the threads on stock coil part numbers to see where yours fit in. You might consider timing your fenders for added clearance.

The other thing to consider is you will need wheel spacers for 35x12.5 tires on the stock rims.

I agree with you that 35" are a "natural" fit for the JK but just force fitting them and stuffing them inside the fenders provides no benefit on or off the road or in appearance.
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Old 05-07-2015, 05:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Some of this depends on which stock coils you have. There is almost a 2.5" difference in ride height between the shortest and tallest stock coils. Check out the threads on stock coil part numbers to see where yours fit in. You might consider timing your fenders for added clearance.

The other thing to consider is you will need wheel spacers for 35x12.5 tires on the stock rims.

I agree with you that 35" are a "natural" fit for the JK but just force fitting them and stuffing them inside the fenders provides no benefit on or off the road or in appearance.
While I agree that there is a big spring difference, that crosses over between JK and JKU. The smallest I have seen on a JKU is 16's and the that's only 3/4" to 19's. And those are set by how the JKU is equipped, so there won't be one that is randomly built, notably taller than another.
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:21 AM   #6
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35" tall tires are most often 12.5" wide (ish) and should not be installed on the factory 7.5" wide wheels. The minimum for a 35"x12.5R17 or 315/70-17 is an 8.5" wide wheel.

I highly recommend you get a set of wheels with the proper width and offset. If you get a 4.5" backspaced 8.5" or 9" wide wheel, you can get away with 35" tires with minimal modification.
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:51 PM
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35" tall tires are most often 12.5" wide (ish) and should not be installed on the factory 7.5" wide wheels. The minimum for a 35"x12.5R17 or 315/70-17 is an 8.5" wide wheel.

I highly recommend you get a set of wheels with the proper width and offset. If you get a 4.5" backspaced 8.5" or 9" wide wheel, you can get away with 35" tires with minimal modification.
Interesting, that is new/news to me. The place I am going to said to go with Goodyear Duratracs. Does that make a difference? I will check with them.
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:52 PM
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Here is what I got from the place I am thinking about having the work done.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Least expensive-
1) 2.5” Spacer lift an shock extensions- $140.00 + $275.00 to install = $415

Better-
1) 2.5” Rock Krawler springs and Bilstein shocks - $1000.00 + $575.00 to install = $1575.00

Good Year Duratracs will run about $340 or so for a 35” tire (315/70-17)

You can use your factory wheels- they are nice looking wheels. You will need wheel spacers - $140.00.

Misc costs-
1) Procal Computer, to calibrate your speedo to the tire size - $160.00
2) Spare tire bracket/mount- $110.00 + $39.00 to install

Note- I do not recommend a body lift. They are terrible on the JKs. If you are looking to get 35” tires on at a low cost, do the spacer lift. It is easy and affective for what you want.
------------------------------------------------------------

Thoughts everyone????
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:41 PM   #9
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A spacer lift is fine for what you describe, although for $275 if I had tools I could probably install it - and I am a girl.

Once you flex it out may need some minor fender or air dam trim.

A 35 you need to get off the tailgate stock carrier - nix the bracket and just put the spare on a cable lock in your cargo area.

I think a set of geometry correction brackets may be a good idea too (think they're only around or under $100).

If you have any plans to wheel, do C gussets (like $50ish plus welding).
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:25 PM   #10
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For years I ran 35-inch tires on a 2.5" Economy Lift/Budget Boost, with wheel spacers using the stock wheels. That's all you need and you won't get any rubbing.

However, as mentioned already, you "should not" be mounting 12.5 wide tires on 7.5 wide rims; the minimum recommended for those tires is 8.5 wide wheels. At which point, might as well get wheels that have 4.7 backspacing or less and you won't need spacers.

Here is my Jeep still with the 2.5-inch TeraFlex Budget Boost, 35-inch tires but with aftermarket 17x8.5 wheels with 4.7 backspacing and no spacers.



Good luck,

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Old 05-15-2015, 10:37 AM   #11
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Interesting, that is new/news to me. The place I am going to said to go with Goodyear Duratracs. Does that make a difference? I will check with them.
Doesn't make a difference. They need an 8.5" wheel to be within safety range as recommended by the engineers that design the tires. Just because you can pay a shop to put them on a 7.5" wide wheel doesn't necessarily make it a good idea or a safe plan. From my experience, an engineer will have a better understanding of what is safe than your average mechanic or tire shop employee.
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Old 05-15-2015, 01:13 PM
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Hmmmm..... Always something!
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:47 PM   #13
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Anyone running 35 x 13.5 on 15s for a JKU? Guess I have a problem with 2.5 teraflex budget boost with this size and may need flat fenders or need to trim.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:51 PM   #14
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You are going to need a set of wheel spacers for sure. I'd buy 1.5" Synergy, Spidertrax or RedRock4x4. You are also going to need some fender clearance. A 2.5" spacer lift will get you there. I recommend the Rough Country Series II lift as it comes pretty complete and is very economical. Rough Country 2.5" Series II Suspension Spacer Lift Kit without Shocks - RC-634 If your caster is low after install (some are and some aren't) you add a set of TF Sport LCA's and you are done. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f123/te...t-1191361.html That's dirt cheap to get in to 35's. I don't recommend going anything less as you will have big rubbing and could tear up fenders, etc.
Done. You basically set up for 35's for less than $400.00.

You'll need to factor how to carry your spare without ripping your tailgate off.

Consider C gussets if you wheel and be prepared for ball joints sometime down the road.

Also - research and consider a tire in the 34ish range. You'll only loose a bit in height, but potentially save some weight, width and a tiny bit of under gearing. All of which go a long way for a daily driver.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:08 PM   #15
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Done. You basically set up for 35's for less than $400.00.

You'll need to factor how to carry your spare without ripping your tailgate off.

Consider C gussets if you wheel and be prepared for ball joints sometime down the road.

Also - research and consider a tire in the 34ish range. You'll only loose a bit in height, but potentially save some weight, width and a tiny bit of under gearing. All of which go a long way for a daily driver.
If you go with the shorter tire then you could go with a narrower one as well which will pretty much give you benefits across the board

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