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Old 04-12-2019, 04:36 PM
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Speed Sensors keep failing....

2014 Jeep JKU. I have had it for a little over a year and had to replace the left rear speed sensor 2 times and the right one once. Only drove it on the street but I am sure the previous owner went into the mud with it. I have replaced the rear drivers side axle also as it was leaking fluid. Can anyone else think of any reason they will keep failing? I have checked the wires and they "look" ok. Should I just replace the wires anyway?

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Old 04-12-2019, 05:09 PM   #2
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Maybe check the speed sensor cable routing (against another known stock vehicle), possibly your cable routing was changed and is subject to excessive flexing. The speed sensor itself is a pretty simply device and shouldn't be prone to failure.
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:38 PM
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I figured the first time when it was leaking gear oil, that is what caused it to go out but its not leaking gear oil since changing the axle. I will check the wires next to see. I was even thinking maybe the rotors and brakes are making too much dust and causing them to fail?
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:45 PM   #4
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I figured the first time when it was leaking gear oil, that is what caused it to go out but its not leaking gear oil since changing the axle. I will check the wires next to see. I was even thinking maybe the rotors and brakes are making too much dust and causing them to fail?
They're completely sealed units (a potted coil) and designed to run in a pretty nasty environment, so not really subject to damage from moisture or dust or oil and the like. If you are seeing multiple failures from quality parts (OEM or equivalent) then likely something is up with the installation.
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:45 PM   #5
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:01 PM
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Well they are just plug and play but i will try tracing the wires to make sure they are not damaged
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:28 PM   #7
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How are you diagnosing? Do you have a code reader or just looking at ABS and traction control lights on the dash?
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Old 04-12-2019, 10:26 PM   #8
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Have you taken a look and/or wire brush to the tone rings? If you have crap in them you could be compromising the sensor's ability to properly read the teeth. Amd make sure you get all the rust and crap off the inside of the rotors roo in case it is breaking off and also fouling the tone ring or sticking to the sensor

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Old 04-13-2019, 06:58 AM
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How are you diagnosing? Do you have a code reader or just looking at ABS and traction control lights on the dash?
Dash Lights come on first and then I bought a code reader to know which side is failing. I got the Blue Driver one from Amazon.
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Old 04-13-2019, 07:12 AM
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Have you taken a look and/or wire brush to the tone rings? If you have crap in them you could be compromising the sensor's ability to properly read the teeth. Amd make sure you get all the rust and crap off the inside of the rotors roo in case it is breaking off and also fouling the tone ring or sticking to the sensor

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I havent did that. I will check that also when I am checking the wires. Thanks
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Old 04-13-2019, 07:21 AM   #11
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I havent did that. I will check that also when I am checking the wires. Thanks
You have to remove the rotor to check the tone ring. Or, when you pull the sensor you can use a flashlight whilst rotating the tire to at least get an eye on them to decide if you want to pull the rotor.

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Old 04-13-2019, 08:12 AM
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You have to remove the rotor to check the tone ring. Or, when you pull the sensor you can use a flashlight whilst rotating the tire to at least get an eye on them to decide if you want to pull the rotor.

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Yeah I removed the rotor on the drivers side when I replaced the axle but I havent did that on the passenger side.
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Old 04-13-2019, 09:19 AM   #13
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Could be the tone ring. One thing I noticed when I was having trouble after a new axle install and went thru 3 speed sensors on the front (long story) is that the sensor/harness may not visibly look damaged, but still not work.
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Old 04-13-2019, 01:56 PM   #14
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Are you using OEM sensors or an aftermarket brand? Seems that many times the aftermarket sensors can be problematic.
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:29 PM
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Are you using OEM sensors or an aftermarket brand? Seems that many times the aftermarket sensors can be problematic.
I purchased this one: https://www.extremeterrain.com/crown...r-0717-jk.html
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:27 PM   #16
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I would probably try a genuine Mopar part...
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Old 04-13-2019, 11:41 PM
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I would probably try a genuine Mopar part...
That would be my very last choice. The ones i bought were about $9. Replacing 2 Mopar ones that had failed. Mopar ones cost about $108. Kinda hard to justify spending $100 extra dollars for a name
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Old 04-14-2019, 12:10 AM   #18
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That would be my very last choice. The ones i bought were about $9. Replacing 2 Mopar ones that had failed. Mopar ones cost about $108. Kinda hard to justify spending $100 extra dollars for a name
Until you replace 10 in a row...

Seriously though, there is a middle ground. You can often save on OEM prices by buying a name brand, for instance many OEM parts are made by Bosch and you can get the same part for a lot less by buying the Bosch part number vs. the marked-up Mopar. But it's also not a good idea to buy the cheapest replacements you can find as some of these can be pretty dreadful. Stick with a name-brand part (not whatever Autozone throws at you), it's a lot less frustrating and you usually end up money ahead.
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:24 AM   #19
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Or take your pick
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ed+sensor,1912
obviously cheapest is not always best.
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:35 AM
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I know the cheapest isnt always the best but I bought the ones I could find first. With that being said, the "cheap" ones I bought only 1 has failed. The first 2 I replaced were Mopar.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:43 PM   #21
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I would avoid any aftermarket sensor, they are pretty much crap. OEM is more expensive but you probably won't have "gremlins". This applies to all brands of vehicle.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:56 PM   #22
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I would avoid any aftermarket sensor, they are pretty much crap. OEM is more expensive but you probably won't have "gremlins". This applies to all brands of vehicle.
Depends on what you define as 'aftermarket.' Many OEM electrical parts are made for the OEM by manufacturers such as Bosch, BERU, etc. and are simply resold in a Mopar box. To say that makes them better is to say (for example) that a spark plug direct from Champion isn't as good as the same Champion plug in a Mopar box.

That said, I'd agree that if you vary from OEM it should only be to a known-quality name-brand manufacturer and definitely stay away from Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. house brands. Some are decent, many are terrible and you just have no way of knowing what you're getting.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:37 PM
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So I am leaning towards the issue being with the brake lines and/or calipers. So I am going to replace both rear calipers and brake lines. We shall see if that works.
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Old 04-17-2019, 12:58 PM   #24
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In stead of just throwing parts at it you can ohm the sensors out and see if there bad you can also check to see if there reading the tone ring by checking the voltage on the sensor while spinning the wheel.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:12 PM   #25
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Calipers nor brake lines will cause the problem you are having. Literally, it's the tone ring, the sensor, the wiring, or the electronics (PCM maybe) that is causing your problem. MikeRubi is telling you the proper way to diagnose...
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:00 PM
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Another symptom is that the rear driver side caliper sticks when the ABS and traction control lights came on. I was reading another website and is says that when the calipers stick, it causes those same lights to come on. I have cleaned the tone ring but will have to have someone else check the sensor as i don't have the tools to. Regardless if it fixes it or not, i want the brake lines and rear calipers changed tho.
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:14 PM   #27
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I would VERY closely check the wiring for a broken wire. I had a wire broken a few inches back from the sensor in the wire loom just in front of the factory tape where they taped the two wires together. You may not visually see the break. Use a good 12 volt test light safe for computers. Unplug your connector at the sensor. I can't remember which color wire is the 12v but the connected is marked + or - . Turn the ignition on and work your way back. Took me about 10 minutes to find.
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:38 PM
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I would VERY closely check the wiring for a broken wire. I had a wire broken a few inches back from the sensor in the wire loom just in front of the factory tape where they taped the two wires together. You may not visually see the break. Use a good 12 volt test light safe for computers. Unplug your connector at the sensor. I can't remember which color wire is the 12v but the connected is marked + or - . Turn the ignition on and work your way back. Took me about 10 minutes to find.
I will check that too next weekend.
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:48 PM   #29
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As mentioned earlier a micro-break in the cabling is probably the most common failure mode for these things, and they can be devilishly difficult to find. Often the break is such that the wire ends are still touching (inside the insulation) so the sensor works most of the time, but will throw random faults. Top-quality wiring and connectors is one of the places where the bargain brands can skimp, but if installed such that the cabling is flexing even OEM units will fail.
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:57 PM   #30
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I have a 15 wrangler and I had both my passenger side front and then drivers side rear go out in a 3 week period. It is still under warranty, so the dealership fixed them both. The rear one they said was caused by an axel seal leak.

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