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Old 01-21-2020, 06:10 AM
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Suspension advice 2dr jk rubicon

I’ m planning on picking up a under 50k 3.6 used rubicon possibly by the end of this week. I haven’t had the best luck with my current 15 Willys and really want a manual transmission and the dana 44 front

I found a super clean no rust underneath ride and I’m trying to negotiate a price right now. If this goes thru i’m starting fresh. I was running an AEV 3.5 lift with 35’s




These are my current parts

[email protected] bumpers
Teraflex alpine arms complete set front + rear
RK adjustable trackbars
Adams driveshafts front and rear( these are welded for 35’s regrettably, My last Jeep was a daily driver,I work in the city and parking garages are my enemy. This next ride will not be a daily driver.
Barnes 4wd aluminum tie rod, Aluminum flipped drag link with GM 1 ton joints.
Magnaflow off-road exhaust - I would leave this exhaust behind but he has some fancy dual exhaust with giant tips. The Magnaflow exhaust is insanely loud.


So I plan on using my 35’s atleast for this year, would like to give myself the height to possibly run 37’s down the line.

I also plan on buying Hard Racing knuckles.

Springs ?? Swaybar options rubicon?

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Old 01-21-2020, 07:55 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Readytworoll View Post
I m planning on picking up a under 50k 3.6 used rubicon possibly by the end of this week. I havent had the best luck with my current 15 Willys and really want a manual transmission and the dana 44 front

I found a super clean no rust underneath ride and Im trying to negotiate a price right now. If this goes thru im starting fresh. I was running an AEV 3.5 lift with 35s




These are my current parts

[email protected] bumpers
Teraflex alpine arms complete set front + rear
RK adjustable trackbars
Adams driveshafts front and rear( these are welded for 35s regrettably, My last Jeep was a daily driver,I work in the city and parking garages are my enemy. This next ride will not be a daily driver.
Barnes 4wd aluminum tie rod, Aluminum flipped drag link with GM 1 ton joints.
Magnaflow off-road exhaust - I would leave this exhaust behind but he has some fancy dual exhaust with giant tips. The Magnaflow exhaust is insanely loud.


So I plan on using my 35s atleast for this year, would like to give myself the height to possibly run 37s down the line.

I also plan on buying Hard Racing knuckles.

Springs ?? Swaybar options rubicon?


We run the Alpine CT3 (3" lift) on our 2018 2 door and are happy with it. You didn't mention shocks but we chose the kit with the Falcon 3.3. You didn't mention axle upgrades but if you go off road you should add them too your list for 37s, even 35s really. Our 2018 build also has Adams shafts front/rear, there's a link in my sig to the build thread..

  • For gears we went 4.88 with a 37, this would be fine for 35s too. If you do a lot of crawling you might consider 5.13 for 37s, but on 35s that might be too much gear.
  • Springs are parts of our CT3 kit, or they have an "overland" version with stiffer springs.
  • We didn't modify the sway other than quick discos, same on our '14 Rubi.


On another not make sure you research the manual trans. I'm not trying to sidetrack this thread into a manual/auto debate but there are some serious supply issues and other negatives that go along with the manual. Just suggesting you do plenty of research FWIW We ditched our 2013 manual after 9 months because it was so bad.


If it were me I'd throw a aftermarket 44 under your Willys and lock the rear, it will be better than a Rubi. If you need a better crawling ratio add an Atlas (again better than a Rubi) Other than that it sounds like you're taking everything else off the Jeep that makes it a Rubi.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:54 AM   #3
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While the D44 front axle on a Rubicon is better than the D30 front axle on the Willys (or any of the others) it isn't a huge difference. The aftermarket D44's are better than the stock D44.
The Rubi D44 has the same basic axle tubes and C's as the D30. The pumpkin is bigger, and thus the gears in it are bigger. The axle shafts are a little stronger with more splines. The ball joints are the same, as are the drag link and tie rod. The unit bearings are also the same as I recall.
If you want a manual, I get that. We run a manual and don't have any issues with it.
But with the Rubicon you will still want to re-gear it for tires that big. And you will still want to upgrade some of the parts like ball joints and tie rod / drag link. You can wait for the stock parts to fail, or you can replace before they fail.
I think the point is, the Rubicon D44 isn't much better for running 35's than the D30 is. Both really need some strengthening. And if you want 37's, well upgrading to a Rubi is one way to do it. But another way would be to swap the front axle in the Willys for an aftermarket D44 that is stronger than the Rubi axle. That is what I wish I had done in hindsight. But we found a used Rubi D44 at a decent price and went that way. So far so good. But I wish I had spent the extra coin and upgraded to an aftermarket D44.
I think what it comes down to is the farther you are going with mods the less sense it makes to start with a Rubi. Upgrading to a Rubi gets you so far. But if you are going a lot farther it is usually cheaper to just go aftermarket as far as you want to go. No reason to pay extra for Rubi parts and then replace them. Just my opinion.
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:05 AM   #4
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I have a Metalcloak 2.5" Gamechanger on our 2 door Hardrock, and with flat fenders it has plenty of room for 37's. It's sitting on 35's now due to the 4.10 gears. I also have the same suspension on my 4 door with flat fenders and 37's.

Metalcloak springs provide a ton of articulation and still ride well. As cool as the push button sway bar disconnect seems, you will get better articulation with some quick disconnect end links. I would also recommend a steering stabilizer relocation bracket.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:25 AM   #5
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I like the AEV stuff. I also like the MetalCloak stuff. You can't go wrong with either. For a more offroad oriented Jeep I would go with MetalCloak springs. Perhaps paired with a set of Falcon 3 series shocks. Or a lower cost option is the MetalCloak long travel shocks that appear to be red OME shocks. I liked my OME shocks. Great shock for the money.
I would stay with a 2.5" lift, especially with a 2 door. For 37's down the road I would either run flat fenders or trim the stock fenders. Lower center of gravity is better in my opinion.
As mentioned, even with the push button disconnect of a Rubicon it is still a good idea to install disconnects for the front sway bar. The push button is good for light off roading but for harder stuff, especially when you are upgrading the suspension travel, you really want to be able to physically disconnect the sway bar. Or you could end up with a flipped link.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:41 AM   #6
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Unless you are hell bent on a manual, and since you want to make it just an off road toy, I would just upgrade your current jeep. At least you know its history. Good luck with whatever you do though.
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:20 PM   #7
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Or a lower cost option is the MetalCloak long travel shocks that appear to be red OME shocks. I liked my OME shocks. Great shock for the money.
Back when MC sold their kits with OME shocks, the red Rock Sport shocks were an economical option... MC noted in the description they we valved similar to OME, with shorter extended length, longer compressed length.
Cannot comment on the "similar" valving, but memory serves, the difference in lengths was not game changing (see what I did there?).
Not sure if things have changed over the years.

At any rate...
Totally agree MC springs and OME shocks make a nice combo.
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Old 01-21-2020, 02:29 PM   #8
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So, I just did a bunch of researching... and it looks like the RockSport's have been revised since their early release... they are now longer front, and dang near same rear, and there is verbiage on MC's site regarding re-valved...
According to what I can find... don't take that as gospel.
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Old 01-21-2020, 02:58 PM   #9
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So, I just did a bunch of researching... and it looks like the RockSport's have been revised since their early release... they are now longer front, and dang near same rear, and there is verbiage on MC's site regarding re-valved...
According to what I can find... don't take that as gospel.
IMO...the RockSports work well and the price is awesome. Just cant see spending $$$ on a shock that is a wear item.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:46 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I really want a new ride. Debated picking up a leftover JL. But unfortunately I can justify spending that money. I’d rather pick up a low mile jk Rubicon and take what I have.besides my rims everything is almost new that I’ll be taking. Never been off road with.
Having those driveshafts welded really kills me. I was living in an 8 story building on the east river at the time and that garage spot was gold, it took me 3 years to get it and it cleared the girder by about 2 inches on 35’s.

I wish I had the balls to heat them up and crack the tack welds, but I don’t see that ending well. My Willy’s has been a lemon. Overheating issues and numerous rear main seals. I plan on fixing the seal myself before I sell it. Mopar has stonewalled me over the lift and at this point it’s on me.Doesn’t matter they’re horrific mechanics around here. I have the roc-trac t-case for my current ride, but I just want to start over fresh. I know 2 people that want the T-case and I never even got around to putting on my ride.

So I’ guess decent coil springs and shocks. Run the 4:10 with my 35’s and welded Adams driveshafts this year. I’d like to use what I have.
The control arms and track bars are brand new
T-flex Alpine and RK bomb proof
So I just want ideas for good
coil springs/ bump stops?
Shocks?
Basic axel armor/ control arm armor?
and I like to give myself the height to run 37’s for possibly next season? I’ll gear up if I make it 37’s.

If this ends up like last year I’m done.

Anybody have any experience with reid racing knuckles? I have welded inserts in my current knuckles. A new ride deserves new knuckles. I honestly don’t know anybody personally that’s running rancho, t-flex, or Reid .
I here they need to be reamed for GM tie rods. I don’t know the quality to the others, but that orange is pretty cool.

Quality/durable/and easy. That’s what It shooting for. I had non functional unnecessary shit on this last ride. No luxury shit needed.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:01 PM   #11
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What do you mean welded driveshafts
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:55 AM
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When I shredded my front driveshafts. I spoke to Adams and told my tire size, lift, and he asked if I had plans on going up..I told him I’m staying at that height. They were made solid for my setup. I lived in NYC at that time, and I never take public trans. Did it for years, never again. Parking garages here aren’t friendly to large vehicles. I Still work in Manhattan. I live 36 miles north now right by the Appalachian Trail. Amazing, 36 miles and it’s like a another planet.I have a family of bears now that live in a cave 150ft from my place. For the last 15 years the biggest wildlife near me was rats. Some the size of big cats.
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:41 AM   #13
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Suspension advice 2dr jk rubicon

I think what is not completely obvious is which aftermarket parts the OP is planning to reuse off the WW on the new ride. Then there are two groups of new parts, some sitting around and some yet to be purchased. The sitting around TC is going to be sold (not sure why that is even relevant). Where is Sherlock Holmes when you need him? 3.5 lift is good for 37s so I dont see an issue with the Adams driveshafts.
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:16 AM   #14
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I think you are confused about your driveshaft being welded solid. It has to be able to move.
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:31 AM   #15
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I think you are confused about your driveshaft being welded solid. It has to be able to move.

Maybe thats what you do in New York City to keep your car from being stolen?
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:50 PM
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I definitely could be. I’m by far not an auto mechanic. I was under the impression this was welded in proper position to put my axle/ driveshaft in line for 35’s. Tell me I’m completely wrong.

I build elevators for a living and don’t even claim to be great at that.

Please enlighten me.
I had major issues with my front end on this last Jeep from somebody supposedly reputable and his shit work. My whole yeti setup, front ball joints, one knuckle and damaged one of my wheels. I’m not sure if that wheel can be balanced with the gouges I took out of it.

I’m more than capable of doing installs. I can read directions and I assemble some crazy shit for a living. Unfortunately most people with Jeeps are mall crawlers in my area. I work with one hardcore wheeler, but he’s an FJ guy and is on I wheeling level I’ll never be. he trailers his beast when he goes out. Then again I’d be surprised if he can hit 50 mph.

I’m under the impression
Control arms, adjustable track bars, and proper driveshaft angles, and a knowledgeable alignment will put your camber, thrust and axles in the best position. my whole yeti

Am I missing something?
These driveshafts are sweet even though I was shocked how far the front was extended when I installed them.
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:01 PM   #17
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Driveshafts have to have a slip joint otherwise when your suspension cycled which it does constantly when in motion you would take out your transfer case. Any custom drive shaft will work for a range of lifts within reason
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Old 01-22-2020, 05:06 PM   #18
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Oh and for the record on 2 door an aev 3.5 is a nice lift.
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Old 01-23-2020, 03:28 AM
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The Jeep rides great on that lift. Super smooth ride.I should of done better upcoming on the Bilstein 5160 shocks. After a few attempts cleaning them, I finally just painted them and threw deals on them.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:43 AM   #20
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The Jeep rides great on that lift. Super smooth ride.I should of done better upcoming on the Bilstein 5160 shocks. After a few attempts cleaning them, I finally just painted them and threw deals on them.
If you want more robust arms in this new build with a similar adjusting design Synergy makes an excellent product.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:15 PM
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I actually called Adams and spoke to him. Super nice guy. His tire height question and going higher in the future pertained to going up much higher than I was thinking. He said after 37’s he recommends custom shafts for whatever your running. Going to 37’s feel like a big move for me. I barely see guys running 40’s around me.

So another? Anybody seen guys running 37’s on a 2 dr jk with a 3.5 AEV. I wonder if I could get by without rubbing with proper spacers?
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:51 PM   #22
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I think you would be golden. I had plenty of room with my 2 door 3.5 AEV with Toyo 35's I had more than enough room
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:52 PM   #23
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I actually called Adams and spoke to him. Super nice guy. His tire height question and going higher in the future pertained to going up much higher than I was thinking. He said after 37s he recommends custom shafts for whatever your running. Going to 37s feel like a big move for me. I barely see guys running 40s around me.

So another? Anybody seen guys running 37s on a 2 dr jk with a 3.5 AEV. I wonder if I could get by without rubbing with proper spacers?
Yes, with the proper bump stops, you can run the 37's on an AEV 3.5.
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Old 01-24-2020, 03:56 PM   #24
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I actually called Adams and spoke to him. Super nice guy. His tire height question and going higher in the future pertained to going up much higher than I was thinking. He said after 37s he recommends custom shafts for whatever your running. Going to 37s feel like a big move for me. I barely see guys running 40s around me.

So another? Anybody seen guys running 37s on a 2 dr jk with a 3.5 AEV. I wonder if I could get by without rubbing with proper spacers?
I have a 2017 2 Door Jeep JK and I run an AEV 3.5 lift on 37 inch Cooper STT Pro's. If you want to run 37's (Remember all manufacturers "stated" sizes are different, however these Coopers run fairly close to advertised size coming in at 36.77 inches) on this lift you need to run a 4 inch bump stop. At 4 inches I don't rub or scrape anything however with a bump stop that big you do sacrifice some articulation. I'm ok with that sacrifice as I was set on running 37's with stock fenders.

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