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Old 12-26-2015, 09:42 AM
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Sway bar links

Hi all. I got my new to me 2007. A few months ago now gonna start upgrading it. PO said there is a 2.5" lift on it. Has 315/70/17 on it. Not sure what kind but think it has some kind of budget lift. Looking at the end links now sure if they should be this small and sway bar angled down this far. Should I order new longer end links or is this ok. This is a daily driver with a few trail rides a year. Thank in advance.

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Old 12-26-2015, 09:48 AM   #2
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Looks like some kind of spacer lift and those sway links are WAY too short.

The sway bar, at ride height, should be a couple degrees past parallel with the ground, with the ends of the sway bar where the links attach slightly higher than the horizontal member.

Do I see RCV shafts in there? Nice!

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Old 12-26-2015, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the info. Will be ordering the jks end links. Yea. He said he put them in. Just gotta figure what kind of grease to use on them. By the way how did you see that it was a spacer lift.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:12 AM
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[QUOTE="jjwin98;23171825"]Thanks for the info. Will be ordering the jks end links. Yea. He said he put them in. Just gotta figure what kind of grease to use on them. Unless it would be better just to get a different 2.5" lift.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:29 AM   #5
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Just a sec.... Let's think this through.

The odds are your rear is also out of whack. It would be better to buy a set of rears and move the stock rears to the front... Kill 2 birds, 1 stone kind of thing.

Rough Country Rear Sway Bar Endlinks for 2.5" Lifts - RC-1134

You want both bars close to level...

That is definitely a budget boost and from the looks of the bump stops it's probably a set of TF spacers. But the TF kits correct the links.

Also, if you want to clean the rest of the lift up over time, those stock springs look pretty beat... Check out the Superlift 2.5's from Summit. You can get all 4 for less than $150.

Superlift Lift Coil Springs 581 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Superlift Lift Coil Springs 580 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

In the end, if you are in a position to do it, a new lift would be the stronger way to go. Read this: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/mo...f-1136938.html
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:46 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Was gonna get sway bar links and shocks. But looks like I'll be looking at either a new lift or adding springs to the list.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Just a sec.... Let's think this through. The odds are your rear is also out of whack. It would be better to buy a set of rears and move the stock rears to the front... Kill 2 birds, 1 stone kind of thing. Rough Country Rear Sway Bar Endlinks for 2.5" Lifts - RC-1134 You want both bars close to level... That is definitely a budget boost and from the looks of the bump stops it's probably a set of TF spacers. But the TF kits correct the links. Also, if you want to clean the rest of the lift up over time, those stock springs look pretty beat... Check out the Superlift 2.5's from Summit. You can get all 4 for less than $150. Superlift Lift Coil Springs 581 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Superlift Lift Coil Springs 580 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing In the end, if you are in a position to do it, a new lift would be the stronger way to go. Read this: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/mo...f-1136938.html
This is the route I would go. Teraflex budget boost kits has you do this. I'd check out their YouTube install video to see.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:59 AM
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By the way sorry it is a 2 door rubicon. Looks to me like a lift would be better as it comes with the new springs and shocks and can get new end links. Just gotta figure out if should go with a 2.5 again or a 3". I like the height now so would only go up to a 3"
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Old 12-26-2015, 12:31 PM   #9
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By the way sorry it is a 2 door rubicon. Looks to me like a lift would be better as it comes with the new springs and shocks and can get new end links. Just gotta figure out if should go with a 2.5 again or a 3". I like the height now so would only go up to a 3"
If you can swing it, the new lift is the way to go. First, you will get MORE lift from a 2.5 spring kit than you have now. So I would recommend staying at 2.5... There are quite a few choices and if you can tell us what type of use your Jeep gets and what your budget is, we can make some solid recommendations.
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Old 12-26-2015, 12:39 PM
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Ok.i do like the idea of staying with 2.5. It's mostly a DD. About 4 or 5 times a year take it off road. Mostly mud and trails a few small rock hills. Nothing extreme with the rock crawling. Budget I would say is around 800-1000. I do know it needs a new steering stabilizer. Was inking of a dual (just for looks). By the way all work will be done in a driveway as I have no access to a shop or lift.
Thanks again.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:14 PM
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Looking at the rubicon express 2.5" standard coil with mono tube shocks. Any thoughts on this lift.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:48 PM   #12
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If you like the front to be level or higher don't go with 2.5" Rubicon Express. We did two 2.5" lifts. One with Teraflex and one with Rubicon Express. The Teraflex gave more lift upfront which i liked more. Also Rubicon Express springs sagged over time. Just my experience.
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:01 PM
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Ok Tera flex is better. Any other worth looking at
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:18 PM   #14
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The Rubicon Express 2.5 was just updated with new springs earlier this year. They have fixed the sagging issue. It would be a little less expensive than the Teraflex lift, but if you really want to focus on ride quality, I think the TF will edge out the Rubicon Express. You need proper caster correction with either one.

I like this set up:

Teraflex 1351002 2.5 kit for 2Dr
Rancho RS55329 Front Shocks
Rancho RS55330 Rear Shocks
Synergy 8047 Fixed Lower Front Control arms to correct caster
Superlift 5770 Adjustable front track bar

Should be around $1000 and a great setup... You can shop around for the best pricing, or hit up one of our supporting vendors for a quote. I bought a lot of my parts from Allen at Allens Off Road. You can PM @AOR here for a quote.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:03 PM
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Thinking the TF. What do you mean proper caster correction?
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:26 PM   #16
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I just bought myself a Teraflex 2.5" coil lift and got their fixed length sport arms for castor correction. Hard to beat the price and they're beefy as hell.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjwin98 View Post
Thinking the TF. What do you mean proper caster correction?
Lots on caster here: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/je...ng-502001.html

Reading just the first post in that thread is very helpful.

In a nutshell, caster is what makes you go straight when you let go of the steering wheel. As you lift, you reduce caster and when the caster gets low enough, you have a wonky driving Jeep that wanders all over the road.

Some kits do nothing for caster. Some kits include cam bolts/washers to fix caster (cheap and not desirable). Some kits have geometry correction brackets (great for daily drivers) and some kits use control arms (expensive and best for off road).

The TF kit doesn't correct caster so we add either geometry brackets or front lower control arms to make it right. The Rubicon Express kit includes cam washers, so I recommend that you just don't use those and add the geometry brackets or lower control arms to that kit as well.

I always like to point out that most of us here on WF are enthusiasts and since we aren't motivated by $$ to sell you something, you usually get a variety of good opinions on how to build things, and that is mine...
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:19 AM
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Thanks for all the info it's a big help.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:45 AM   #19
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Thanks for bringing this up it was very timely!! I just logged into WF to search the correct lengths - basically confirm my thoughts of "slightly lower than parallel".

I was installing my bumper and noticed my sway bar links as well. Guess I will be investigating this issue more later this week. (read: break out the credit card) I needed to get some quick disconnects anyways.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:49 AM   #20
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Thanks for bringing this up it was very timely!! I just logged into WF to search the correct lengths - basically confirm my thoughts of "slightly lower than parallel".

I was installing my bumper and noticed my sway bar links as well. Guess I will be investigating this issue more later this week. (read: break out the credit card) I needed to get some quick disconnects anyways.
I use an angle app on my smartphone to measure. Optimum is +5 on the front and -5 on the rear anything between -5 and +10 on the front works fine and 0 to -10 on the rear is fine.

My front is +1.2 as seen here using the angle app.

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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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Old 12-27-2015, 10:15 AM   #21
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
The Rubicon Express 2.5 was just updated with new springs earlier this year. They have fixed the sagging issue. It would be a little less expensive than the Teraflex lift, but if you really want to focus on ride quality, I think the TF will edge out the Rubicon Express. You need proper caster correction with either one.

I like this set up:

Teraflex 1351002 2.5 kit for 2Dr
Rancho RS55329 Front Shocks
Rancho RS55330 Rear Shocks
Synergy 8047 Fixed Lower Front Control arms to correct caster
Superlift 5770 Adjustable front track bar

Should be around $1000 and a great setup... You can shop around for the best pricing, or hit up one of our supporting vendors for a quote. I bought a lot of my parts from Allen at Allens Off Road. You can PM @AOR here for a quote.
Thanks @Pressurized for the mention. Looking at the WF's Most popular kit, which is mostly what you quoted above, with the Monster Trackbar, TF Sport Flex Arms (fixed) and Rancho 5000X shocks mentioned, total shipped in lower 48 (excludning CA Sales tax), $989.05.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

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Old 12-27-2015, 03:06 PM   #23
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Its not a critical angle. I mean you want your swaybars flat as possible. On Rubicon's or if staying connected the front links can revert on themselves if too short. 5-10 in the front is acceptable. In the rear which stays connected -5 to avoid wheel contact when the tire is stuffed.

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