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Old 07-11-2015, 05:47 PM
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I installed a pair of Pro Comp Led Windshield Spots today.

I currently have the 12V connected directly to the battery positive.

I need a switched 12V point to connect the 12V under the hood.

I have a 13 JKU, were can I find a switched 12V feed under the hood?

Thanks, Daniel

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Old 07-11-2015, 06:37 PM   #2
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I think what your looking for is to use 12volt Switch to energize the 12volt relay. Quote me if I'm incorrect. The relay is handling all the Battery Current to the lights. So you need to turn off and on the relay with a switch inside the Cab. Its more simple then you think. Quote me if I'm incorrect. Is there a website so i could look at the wiring diagram.
I tried to Google the info and all I found is You Tube Videos of people dropping nut and bolts and wearing gloves while trying to install this stuff.

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Old 07-11-2015, 08:24 PM   #3
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If I understand what you are trying to find by a "switched wire under the hood"
Then you won't find it. There isn't anything you can hook up to without causing issues with the canbus system. You need to run a power wire into the cab from the battery. Make sure it's fused. Then hook that up to an aftermarket switch. Then the power wire that came on the harness for the lights that comes out of the relay goes to this switch.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:51 PM   #4
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The diagram is labelled wrong.

It shows 4 wire bundles coming out of the relay. The one that goes off the page to the right should be going to the switch in the cab. The terminal marked "switched power" should just be battery positive. The diagram basically shows this, but they confuse things with their words. The relay makes it into switched power, it should not be wired to switched power.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:57 PM   #5
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You have a few options for key on hot under the hood. Assuming you want it hot in run and crank you can find a couple unused terminals in the TIPM fuse block but connecting to them and then running the wire out the cover looks unprofessional.

On a Pentstar JK you can grab the pink/gry wire in the blue connector under the TIPM. This is the most convenient place because it is next to the battery and if you route the wire cleanly you will barley notice it.

There are key on hot wires on the driver side too if needed.

This pink/gry wire will easily power the trigger side of a standard relay but do not use it to power any lights or other accessories.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapidDissent View Post
The diagram is labelled wrong.

It shows 4 wire bundles coming out of the relay. The one that goes off the page to the right should be going to the switch in the cab. The terminal marked "switched power" should just be battery positive. The diagram basically shows this, but they confuse things with their words. The relay makes it into switched power, it should not be wired to switched power.
You may be correct but one advantage of running the power or trigger side of the relay to switched ignition would be the lights would power off with the ignition so the lights would not drain the battery if left on. In this case the low current trigger (85 or 86) would go to switched power, the power out to the lights would be 30 or 87 and the other directly to the battery. The trigger ground would then go into the cab to turn on the lights via the switch. If it is a lighted switch power would need to be provided.

The diagram does look odd and without seeing the complete drawing and the intention of user for power on preference I am making assumptions.
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:18 PM
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Here's the complete diagram.

Thanks,
Daniel
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:01 PM   #8
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Here's the complete diagram.

Thanks,
Daniel
Do you want your lights to be hot at all times or turn off with the ignition? If you want them hot at all times connect the wire labeled switched ignition to the battery as the previous poster indicated.
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:51 AM   #9
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Maybe a diagram of the relay would help? I'm not understanding the purpose of the relay as the diagram shows. My relays have two 12 volt power wires running in. One to send a small signal to the switch, which I just used an add a fuse thingamajig and put it in a fuse slot that is ignition hot only. Then a second fused hot that runs directly from the battery to the relay. The relay can only be activated if the ignition is on, and the switch is activated, which activated the relay, and makes the lights hot.
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:44 AM   #10
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Watch this video and it should explain how to wire up your lights and harness:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvqI62l7vg8

The harness you have is designed to let you run the lights at any time, meaning they are always hot. Also your harness has leads for 2 lights, as opposed to the single in the video. The basic concept is exactly the same.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:13 AM   #11
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The Harness is prewired. You dont have the option for Switched Power that you want. That Blue wire to the switch has me curious. Dont know if its from the switch or straight from the battery. You would need to understand electronics in order for me to explain this any further.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:57 PM
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What about this Pink&White wire under the steering column? It seems to be a switched 12v.

Is is the ignition switch connector?

Thanks,
Daniel
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:58 PM
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Does someone has the electrical schematic for the 2013 JKU?
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:03 PM
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The Harness is prewired. You dont have the option for Switched Power that you want. That Blue wire to the switch has me curious. Dont know if its from the switch or straight from the battery. You would need to understand electronics in order for me to explain this any further.
I do understand electronics very well, as I'm an electrical engineer.

I will need to disconnect, most likely a jumper, from the relay coil, and use a feed from inside the cab to the switch and to the relay coil.

Its easy to do but I'm looking for the easiest connection to get at.

Thanks,
Daniel
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:44 PM   #15
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If you want the lights to power down with ignition you have several options. This is just one way but they cleanest way IMO. You could modify the supplied harness but to keep it simple I suggest you purchase a Bosch style 4 pin relay with connector at your local part store.

Connect same gauge wire that harness has labeled switched 12V to the battery then connect this to terminal 30 of the relay.

Connect terminal 87 of the relay to the wire labeled switched 12V from existing harness.

Connect terminal 85 of the relay to ground.

Connect terminal 86 of the relay to the pink/grey wire in blue connector of TIPM.

Do not tap into the ignition switch or wireless module.

We have all the 13' schematics, there are over 100 pages what system are you looking for?
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:18 PM
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Do not tap into the ignition switch or wireless module. ?
Why not?
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:17 PM   #17
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Why not?
In the old days ignition switches used heavy contactors that could carry many amps, they used heavy gauge wires to power the ignition coil, alternator fields etc.

Todays ignition switches basically carry signals, not amperage. The pink/white wire you refer to is the run/start signal to the TIPM and wireless module; without it your vehicle stops. The blue/red wire is the feed from the TIPM to power the switch and it is protected by a 10 amp fuse.

The run/start signal is what gets the TIPM to power up the ASD relay for engine performance and the wireless module for vehicle security. This signal is monitored by electronics in the TIPM for shorts to ground, shorts to power, intermittent signal, etc.

This circuit is low current to carry signals, not power loads. GM goes one step above and uses a multiplexed 5V reference closed loop ignition switch which is more tolerant to low battery voltage during cranking. We add a power mode module with our swaps to control the sleep and wake cycles of the network to maintain functionality and avoid key off draws.

So lets say you tapped into that ignition switch run/crank signal wire, you connected it to power the light switch which in turn powers up the relay trigger. Then you add an incandescent bulb inside the switch to indicate the lights are on. You probably have 80-100ohm relay trigger consuming 300ma then up to 1/2 amp for the bulb(may be led) so now you placed a reasonable load on this low current signal circuit.

Now lets add the inductive kick generated when the switch is closed and the circuit complete, this can more than double the load on the circuit for a brief time. All this means you may interfere enough with the signal circuit to render a problem.

Years down the road the crappy Chinese switch supplied with your lights shorts out and your vehicle doesn't start.

I just had this situation with a swap where the customer added a remote start system and powered it off the ignition switch. After months of intermittent no starts he brought it to us and we removed the wire from the ignition.

The pink/grey wire I indicated is not a signal circuit, it is a power out from the TIPM designed to carry some load, but I would limit it to the trigger side of the relay.

Sorry for the ramble.
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the explanation, it makes lots of sense. With the processor its not like in the old days. A few months ago, it told me that I had a burned tail light.

Were is the wire that you are referring to, is it next to the battery?

Thanks
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:58 PM   #19
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Yes that's what makes this install clean. I might add dealers like to see accessories tapped into the column wiring, gets them out of module warranty repairs.

If you don't have a Rubicon you can mount the relay where the stock Rubicon locker relays are on the rear edge of the engine compartment above the battery, there is already a hole. The ground post and TIPM is just forward of that position and the battery below it. This way no wire is no longer than a foot or two and can be concealed easily. The blue connector is on the edge of the TIPM towards the passenger fender. It's right at the edge of the TIPM and the blue connector has a lever lock on it. There is only one pink/grey wire in the connector.

The later TIPM's require three hands to release the four locking tabs, just take your time and the TIPM will release.

If you want pictures Google MoTech LS JK instructions or I will post some up.

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