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Old 08-08-2017, 10:24 AM
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Teraflex 8 bolt locking hub conversion & big brake kit

I installed a free spin hub conversion on my Cummins/Dodge Ram and have been looking to do the same for my JK. In addition, I do a lot of travel into the Sierras hunting and fishing and feel that a big brake kit would be helpful when crossing and descending the passes.

I came across Teraflex's hub conversion that also includes a their Big Brake Kit (actually, only Big Rotor kit) - two birds with one stone. Would also need to convert the rear to 8 bolt full float axle.

For those that have installed this kit, do you have any observations on how it's worked for you?

Thanks

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Old 08-08-2017, 12:13 PM   #2
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I believe the rotors are drilled for 8 lug already. I remember extra holes when I did the big rotor kit.

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Old 08-08-2017, 01:14 PM   #3
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Im just sitting here thinking...why?? Just do the big brake kit and be done with it. What size tires are you running? What do you hope to gain from this kit? Seems like this kit would make the weak link on your front axle the ring and pinion, which is a huge mistake. A one ton axle conversion would make way more sense to me if you are out there busting axle shafts and u joints. Not only that, but this isnt even the teraflex big brake kit. it is only the big rotor kit which uses the stock calipers.

I can think of 100 better ideas to spend 4000 dollars (or significantly less) and have the outcome be bigger brakes and stronger axles.
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins_Powered View Post
Im just sitting here thinking...why?? Just do the big brake kit and be done with it. What size tires are you running? What do you hope to gain from this kit? Seems like this kit would make the weak link on your front axle the ring and pinion, which is a huge mistake. A one ton axle conversion would make way more sense to me if you are out there busting axle shafts and u joints. Not only that, but this isnt even the teraflex big brake kit. it is only the big rotor kit which uses the stock calipers.

I can think of 100 better ideas to spend 4000 dollars (or significantly less) and have the outcome be bigger brakes and stronger axles.
Thanks for your thoughts. I flat tow the jeep often...free spin hubs help reduce wear and tear. Has nothing to do with ring and pinion. Larger rotors are a step up in braking performance.

I'm not interested in advice on how to spend money.

I'm looking for feedback from folks that have installed this kit.

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:30 PM   #5
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Since you're in the JK forum, here is something to think about...

If you read your owners manual, it says not to tow your JK Wrangler with anything other than 4 wheels on a trailer or all 4 on the ground. You will defeat the transfer case lubricating effect of towing 4 down with lockout hubs.

I converted my TJ to Warn's locking hub kit, but I'm not really sold on it. Repacking the bearings isn't my favorite job especially since you have to special order the seals. If you don't have a dedicated shop to buy the grease seals, you may have a real hard time finding what you need. NAPA could never find what I need
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:44 PM
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Since you're in the JK forum, here is something to think about...

If you read your owners manual, it says not to tow your JK Wrangler with anything other than 4 wheels on a trailer or all 4 on the ground. You will defeat the transfer case lubricating effect of towing 4 down with lockout hubs.

I converted my TJ to Warn's locking hub kit, but I'm not really sold on it. Repacking the bearings isn't my favorite job especially since you have to special order the seals. If you don't have a dedicated shop to buy the grease seals, you may have a real hard time finding what you need. NAPA could never find what I need
Thanks, Brian.

I need to think further about the transfer case lubricating issue that you mentioned. There are many vehicles with free spin hubs...never heard of transfer case lubrication issues, but I'll do further research.

On my Dodge the front end feels much lighter when free spinning versus locked...the TruTrac in the Dodge does impact steering. There is clearly reduced friction/wear/tear positive impacts with a free spin hub.
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Old 08-08-2017, 03:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dbertheau View Post
Thanks for your thoughts. I flat tow the jeep often...free spin hubs help reduce wear and tear. Has nothing to do with ring and pinion. Larger rotors are a step up in braking performance.

I'm not interested in advice on how to spend money.

I'm looking for feedback from folks that have installed this kit.

Thanks

Flat towing is not a reason to be buying this kit. Your mind seems to be set on this so I wont try and convince you otherwise. I am not telling you how to spend money, only that this is a waste of money.

You're welcome.
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Old 08-08-2017, 03:15 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by dbertheau View Post
Thanks, Brian.

I need to think further about the transfer case lubricating issue that you mentioned. There are many vehicles with free spin hubs...never heard of transfer case lubrication issues, but I'll do further research.

On my Dodge the front end feels much lighter when free spinning versus locked...the TruTrac in the Dodge does impact steering. There is clearly reduced friction/wear/tear positive impacts with a free spin hub.
You've caught my attention.
Lack of hubs was a major letdown when I ordered the jk.
I too notice the better feel when running them unlocked on my F350 and Bronco, any reduction in wear is a bonus.

Didn't need another project just now but thanks anyway, now I've got one.
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:05 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by dbertheau View Post
Thanks, Brian.

I need to think further about the transfer case lubricating issue that you mentioned. There are many vehicles with free spin hubs...never heard of transfer case lubrication issues, but I'll do further research.

On my Dodge the front end feels much lighter when free spinning versus locked...the TruTrac in the Dodge does impact steering. There is clearly reduced friction/wear/tear positive impacts with a free spin hub.
You've caught my attention.
Lack of hubs was a major letdown when I ordered the jk.
I too notice the better feel when running them unlocked on my F350 and Bronco, any reduction in wear is a bonus.

Didn't need another project just now but thanks anyway, now I've got one.
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:56 PM
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You've caught my attention.
Lack of hubs was a major letdown when I ordered the jk.
I too notice the better feel when running them unlocked on my F350 and Bronco, any reduction in wear is a bonus.

Didn't need another project just now but thanks anyway, now I've got one.
I've just ordered these parts. I'll let you know how it goes.

Why would one install this?
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:12 AM   #11
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This would be a good way to strengthen you stock axles. And if you have a vehicle like mine I am already pushing the limits of the stock axles even though I am trussed and sleeved. It is the semi-floating par the the equation that is lacking. And if I was not planning on a LS conversion I think this would be a good way to go.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:01 AM   #12
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You could run a lot of caster without vibration from the driveshaft. It would be interesting to see the effect on gas mileage.
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:34 AM
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Just installed the Rancho 2" lift and TeraFlex's 8-bolt free spin hub and 8-bolt full float axle in rear...new Cooper 285/70R-17 tires.

Photo not to good...just finished install and photo from phone in garage...
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:43 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by dbertheau View Post
Thanks for your thoughts. I flat tow the jeep often...free spin hubs help reduce wear and tear. Has nothing to do with ring and pinion. Larger rotors are a step up in braking performance.

I'm not interested in advice on how to spend money.

I'm looking for feedback from folks that have installed this kit.

Thanks
You arent going to find many people who use that, I am not aware of anyone on this forum who have, mainly because it is snake oil. The benefits do not outweigh the cost.

We arent telling you how to spend your money. We are telling you specifically why we did not purchase this and why really nobody purchases this. @Cummins_Powered made really good points. It's a leftover from the early JK years where 1 ton swaps werent all over the place.

The amount of flat towing that would be required to do enough wear and tear to make a $4000 upgrade worth it.... it would be a lot. If you are that worried, my 18 foot car hauler only cost me $3300, and that is an investment.
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:44 PM   #15
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The amount of flat towing that would be required to do enough wear and tear to make a $4000 upgrade worth it.... it would be a lot. If you are that worried, my 18 foot car hauler only cost me $3300, and that is an investment.[/QUOTE]

Where do you come up with $4000. It sells online for around $1300 and that includes the big break rotors and pads so its really more like 800 for 2 front locking hubs. If you have other vehicles and sets of tires mounted on 6.5 by 8 rims, would this change your thoughts? I probably have $10000 in beadlocks in 6.5 by 8 pattern that I already own, would not it make some sense to try to use them on the JK?

ive not ordered the TF kit but have almost ordered it a few times.

I have 5 sets of tires for my ultra 4 rig, 3 of them are 37s so could potentially use them on the JK , i tend to go thru unit bearings on the JK pretty fast, and even though they are fairly cheap and easy to change out, it seems this kit would help by eliminating that. Weak link should still be the axle u joints which is exaclty where mine breaks when i get on it. And I carry tools and spare ujoints already as those are my weakest link that gets tested. Never have had r&p failure even on a built d30 with 5.13s, always takes out my front driver side u joint first R&P has lasted since 2011 on big tires and gets wheeled often....i just have stock 3.8 motor in the JK with atlas T case. So in Low gears im still putting alot of stress with the atlas on the r&P. Im pefectly willing to put a d60 in but have not seen the need and the d30 doesnt hang so low like a d60,, if engine upgrades were at play would be a different story.

i dont see the value in the rear TF kit as its only held in with plug welds , would just use 5x5 to 6.5x8 adapters in the rear, but the front seems to me to not be such a bad kit for those who eat unit bearings or have other wheelsets 6.5 by 8 is pretty standard size for wheeling , the JK is sub par out of the box with 5 by 5 and not the norm. many more rim choices avail in 8 lug and many more used options as its been the standard forever.

I also dont normally even consider TF to be a brand I would put on my JK but am also curious like the OP on this thread as to anyones real experiences with this kit. So posting in an old thread hoping some how uses the product will comment.
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:06 PM   #16
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@GetRDun , look for more threads started by the OP, i am fairly sure he ended up doing the kit and had some things to say about it. ($4000 is about the cost for the front AND rear conversion).
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:42 PM   #17
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I wish I had the hubs. Did them on my 03 Ram and it made a difference. As far a s the TC goes, the rear DS is still spinning and the new JL has a CAD that keeps the front DS from spinning. If ya got the bucks, get the hubs.
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:15 PM   #18
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Thanks cummins , i read a few of his posts.
Im gonna order this kit today. I wonder if my ten factory shafts will work without having to get the new inner shafts ( i run a built d30 on the JK), I called Teraflex, they said they seen it done with RCVs dint seem 100 percent sure on the ten factory but thought it should work. I think i have my old shafts somewhere in my pole barn will measure them , pull my current shafts and see if they are a little bit longer. but either way Im sold on the concept of locking hubs for sure. Will be fun to change u joints in my shop as opposed to on the trail this time. LOL. Looks like a pretty straight forward install.
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:17 PM   #19
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I wish I had the hubs. Did them on my 03 Ram and it made a difference. As far a s the TC goes, the rear DS is still spinning and the new JL has a CAD that keeps the front DS from spinning. If ya got the bucks, get the hubs.
Actually if the M differential prove out it may be as simple as swap one of them in and wiring a switch in the future. And if you are starting with a d30 this might make sense.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:02 PM
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i dont see the value in the rear TF kit as its only held in with plug welds , would just use 5x5 to 6.5x8 adapters in the rear
The spindle is pretty secure in the axle housing. The spindle is pounded into the housing (very tight fit), the spindle retainer flange also holds the spindle in, and lastly the plug welds...the spindle is not going to rotate, come out or get tweaked. I personally like the full float axle and from installing the kit, I'm confident time was spent engineering a solid product.

There was a thread in the last week or so where someone described how hot their front diff got after a short trip (couldn't touch it). There is most definitely wear and tear on the diff, the u-joints, ball joints, unit bearings, etc. The free spin hubs take all that out of the equation. Less maintenance required.

I couldn't be happier.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:26 PM   #21
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Thanks for replyuing Dbertheau. I was going off the other guys math $4000 -$1300 =2700

just realized its only $1200 for the TF 8 lug rear kit, that makes it a bit more attractive.

Front d60 are $$$$, rear d60s with lockers and gears brand new are only like $3700 was my though process

Now I might just have to try out the rear as well. I see the value in the front and put in the order already. My son just turned 18 4 days ago and drove across the country to live with dad and showed up yesterday, so now Im glad to have a project to teach him how to turn a wrench. I maintain one ultra 4 and 3 GT track cars , plus one super bad arse 1/4 mile Grand National, none of which are good to "learn on " so have been looking for a mod to do to my JK to spend some time with him and show him some of my passion for working on vehicles.. My JK is pretty built up and I dont wanna turn it into a buggy, only real upgrades i have left to do would be engine swap and axles. This will be his first time to really get to play around in my shop as normally we are busy doing things and with divorced family living 2000 miles apart, doesnt help. Ordered this kit and a long arm kit, because what kid doesnt wanna play with a plasma cutter.

I really appreciate your posts on this 8 lug conversion as it kinda fits in as my next mod in more ways than one.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:31 PM
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I maintain one ultra 4 and 3 GT track cars , plus one super bad arse 1/4 mile Grand National, none of which are good to "learn on " so have been looking for a mod to do to my JK to spend some time with him and show him some of my passion for working on vehicles..
My brother raced a Porsche GT3 cup car in the Rolex series...as an amateur driver. In 2011 he was the car owner and one of the drivers of the 67 GT in the Rolex 24 hours of Daytona...won the GT class! His fellow drivers included Andy Lally, Spencer Pumpelly, Brendan Gaughan, and factory Porsche driver, Wolf Hensler.

I've always had a passion for wrenching on cars as well...fun hobby.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:15 PM   #23
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Nice Im very familiar with the Koni Challenge 200 precurser for the Rolex 24hrs of Daytona. Still can set up a GT3 to run on any track Currently working with Huracan GT3s The platform is stiffer than the Porsches as we have roll cage running all the way to rear. I cant name him but one of my drivers is thinking about throwing down for a IFS ulta 4 , would be fun to build one from scratch with his bankroll behind it. We have been playing around with the lambo v10 in a buggy with solid axles but think to really compete want to go IFS. Getting the power to the ground without tearing up everything inbetween is more of a challenge than I thought it was gonna be. I feel like if spider 9 sold stock it would be the next apple lol
These days I dont get out on the track myself but I do on occasion take my dads 1987 grand national out to local 1/4 mile events , it will run high 8s on a good day and low 9s on an OK day, I feel lucky to have been raised in a family that was into racing. Nothing beats taking a $500K super car in a street car that started at only like $20K and still for the most part looks like it did back in 1987. Till you start the motor and feel the ground shake. And only for a 1/4 mile in a straight line, but thats what dad built it to do and 40 years later it takes insane money to beat it at its game. LOL Agree its a great hobby.
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Old 05-23-2018, 01:41 PM   #24
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Actually if the M differential prove out it may be as simple as swap one of them in and wiring a switch in the future. And if you are starting with a d30 this might make sense.
I recall that the new JL is a litttle wider than the JK. Is that track or just body?
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:16 PM   #25
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I recall that the new JL is a litttle wider than the JK. Is that track or just body?
The track is a little wider and the current attach points would not work but I can see case to make this backwards compatible. A lot of times when you go with aftermarket axles you get wider ones to accommodate larger tires and so you can run more backspace to make it easier on the bearings.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:45 AM   #26
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Teraflex's "full float" kit is very well made and Dana 60 size. It's intended to permit someone who upgrades to a full float, eight lug rear axle to retain their Dana 44 in front, or vice versa. Doing them both together gets very pricey and bumps up against the common sense barrier, as you have to get new eight lug wheels as well.

The benefits of manual front hubs are many, long ago well documented. I've run the Spyntec manual hub conversion on my '09 JKUR for the last eight years and swear by it. It's Dana 44 spec. I installed it because no amount of caster reduction and driveshaft balancing could tame front driveline vibrations. In that era JK transfer cases were grenading left & right from driveline vibration. Manual hubs were the absolute cure. Unfortunately, they required new wheels with 5x5.5" bolt pattern, new front & rear axle shafts, etc.

The price value equation got knocked on its ear, but 70,000 miles later I'm a fan. Driving with the front unlocked vs the stock setup reveals much better handling at higher speeds, and reduced drivetrain noise. I suppose there's a mileage gain but I've never tried to determine how much. Were I to do it again today that Teraflex kit looks like the ticket.
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Old 11-27-2018, 04:41 PM   #27
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I've installed the teraflex hub conversion kit on my JK. I haven't had any issues so far.

I'm not sure where the $4,000 cost is coming from. The rear I purchased for 1050. The front for 1300. That is a total of 2350. It actually isn't a very big investment.

if you're going to purchase a chromoly axle shaft in the rear and a rear big brake kit, the FF conversion kit is around an extra couple hundred dollars.

If you're going to purchase a big brake kit for the front, you're only going to spend an additional $500 for the locking front hubs. Plus it allows me to run 8 lug beadlocks so when I upgrade the rear to a dana 60 I dont' have to repurchase 8 lug beadlocks.

I primarily purchased the kit so that I can convert my rear to a full float dana 60 in the future (whenever I decide and it will only be the cost of the axle) and not have to buy everything at once. In addition, I want to keep my front rubicon dana 44 for the foreseeable future while upgrading the rear to either a dana 60 full float. This allows me to space out the costs. This kit made sense for me, while it may not make sense for everyone, but it actually turned out to be a relatively small extra cost because I was planning on buying a big brake kit, chromoly axles and beadlocks anyway and upgrade to a rear FF dana 60 in a year or two.

The added benefits of being able to drive it long distances as I do without the driveshaft vibrations are a plus.
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Old 11-27-2018, 06:10 PM   #28
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If you wipe out anything in the front diff you can unlock the hubs and drive home. Without hubs you fix it or put it on a flat bed for the ride. With hubs you get low range 2WD. With hubs you can set caster and not wory about freeway vibes from the front DS. With hubs you're probabaly never going to get a front diff seal leak. With hubs you can service the front wheel bearings. With hubs you get to do the time honored dance of locking them in.
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Old 11-27-2018, 06:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICHAN View Post
I've installed the teraflex hub conversion kit on my JK. I haven't had any issues so far.

I'm not sure where the $4,000 cost is coming from. The rear I purchased for 1050. The front for 1300. That is a total of 2350. It actually isn't a very big investment.

if you're going to purchase a chromoly axle shaft in the rear and a rear big brake kit, the FF conversion kit is around an extra couple hundred dollars.

If you're going to purchase a big brake kit for the front, you're only going to spend an additional $500 for the locking front hubs. Plus it allows me to run 8 lug beadlocks so when I upgrade the rear to a dana 60 I dont' have to repurchase 8 lug beadlocks.

I primarily purchased the kit so that I can convert my rear to a full float dana 60 in the future (whenever I decide and it will only be the cost of the axle) and not have to buy everything at once. In addition, I want to keep my front rubicon dana 44 for the foreseeable future while upgrading the rear to either a dana 60 full float. This allows me to space out the costs. This kit made sense for me, while it may not make sense for everyone, but it actually turned out to be a relatively small extra cost because I was planning on buying a big brake kit, chromoly axles and beadlocks anyway and upgrade to a rear FF dana 60 in a year or two.

The added benefits of being able to drive it long distances as I do without the driveshaft vibrations are a plus.
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICHAN View Post
I've installed the teraflex hub conversion kit on my JK. I haven't had any issues so far.

I'm not sure where the $4,000 cost is coming from. The rear I purchased for 1050. The front for 1300. That is a total of 2350. It actually isn't a very big investment.

if you're going to purchase a chromoly axle shaft in the rear and a rear big brake kit, the FF conversion kit is around an extra couple hundred dollars.

If you're going to purchase a big brake kit for the front, you're only going to spend an additional $500 for the locking front hubs. Plus it allows me to run 8 lug beadlocks so when I upgrade the rear to a dana 60 I dont' have to repurchase 8 lug beadlocks.

I primarily purchased the kit so that I can convert my rear to a full float dana 60 in the future (whenever I decide and it will only be the cost of the axle) and not have to buy everything at once. In addition, I want to keep my front rubicon dana 44 for the foreseeable future while upgrading the rear to either a dana 60 full float. This allows me to space out the costs. This kit made sense for me, while it may not make sense for everyone, but it actually turned out to be a relatively small extra cost because I was planning on buying a big brake kit, chromoly axles and beadlocks anyway and upgrade to a rear FF dana 60 in a year or two.

The added benefits of being able to drive it long distances as I do without the driveshaft vibrations are a plus.
I've seen a couple of these installed. As I noted above, I've run the Spyntec hubs for the last 70k miles and swear by them. However, were I to do it today I'd spring the cash for the Teraflex setup. It's really slick.
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