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Old 12-27-2016, 02:14 PM
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TeraFlex BBK - Install Questions - 6 Speed/Manual

Good afternoon, I've researched this to death and haven't been able to find good answers. I've called TF and they didn't give me confidence.

I've got the TF BBK sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. I'm confident that I've got everything figured out with the exception of the final stage with relation to the clutch.

I'm assuming that I have to cut a section of the barb off that's located in the same area as the MOPAR OEM MC. From there I reattach the hydraulic line that is currently there. Afterwards, I have to bleed the clutch? This is accomplished by pressing the clutch to the floor, open the bleeder, then closing it and pumping the clutch afterwards.

Can someone post a picture of the clutch bleeder?

Did this method work for someone else who has installed this kit on their own?

Everyone that seems to have this kit is in an automatic, which doesn't help me.

Thank you in advance!!

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Old 12-28-2016, 08:38 AM
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Crickets eh? I'm the only one that wants to run this setup?

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Old 12-28-2016, 09:56 AM   #3
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Bump somebody should be able to help. Theres a few running the TF BBK.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:21 PM
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Well, I'm doing the install tomorrow sans any answers to my questions. I guess once I'm done, I'll have info for the next person
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:33 PM   #5
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Well, I'm doing the install tomorrow sans any answers to my questions. I guess once I'm done, I'll have info for the next person
Maybe WAL can help jus kidding.
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:03 PM   #6
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I will subscribe to this thread as the TF BBK is on my shopping list and I too have a 6-speed manual.
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:35 PM   #7
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Well, I'm doing the install tomorrow sans any answers to my questions. I guess once I'm done, I'll have info for the next person
Maybe WAL can help jus kidding.
Lol. Yeah. That was brutal over there! Kjeeper, are you active memeber over there?
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:07 PM
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Yeah, that will be my first and last foray with that
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:12 PM   #9
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don't take it the wrong way, they hate Tereflex over there. Might have something to do with money or not being a paying advertiser, who knows? But good luck with your brake install!
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:13 PM
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I will subscribe to this thread as the TF BBK is on my shopping list and I too have a 6-speed manual.
Sounds good. Hopefully I can be of help in the future to other folks
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Old 12-30-2016, 12:11 AM   #11
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Well, I'm doing the install tomorrow sans any answers to my questions. I guess once I'm done, I'll have info for the next person

Just curious, why did you choose the TF over the Mopar BBK?
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:56 AM   #12
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I put the Teraflex kit on my jku. Which version do you have? Mine is a '16, so I did not have to replace the master cylinder.
To bleed the brakes, it is easier with two, but can be done with one. Before you put the brake caliper on, coming off the back you will see a small fitting with a hole in it. That is the bleed valve. Once the brakes are all on, you go to the furthest caliper, that was replaced, crack it open with I believe a 10 mm wrench, to make sure it is loose. Then close it immediately. Put a small diameter hose, like 1/8" on the nipple, with the other end in a small jar of brake fluid. Keep the other end of the hose in the brake fluid. Have your partner pump the brakes until they are firm, then have them hold pressure on the pedal, crack the bleed valve open and watch all the little bubbles. Do this two or three times. Check the fluid in the master cylinder and top it off. Go to the drivers side on the same axle and do it again, in the same way.
If the anti lock brakes get air in them, and they really shouldn't, you just need to make a few hard stops where that system is activated, and it will dislodge any bubbles that could be in there. Sure, you could get the tool to do it, but usually four or five Hard stops are enough to make it work.
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:16 AM   #13
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Good afternoon, I've researched this to death and haven't been able to find good answers. I've called TF and they didn't give me confidence.

I've got the TF BBK sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. I'm confident that I've got everything figured out with the exception of the final stage with relation to the clutch.

I'm assuming that I have to cut a section of the barb off that's located in the same area as the MOPAR OEM MC. From there I reattach the hydraulic line that is currently there. Afterwards, I have to bleed the clutch? This is accomplished by pressing the clutch to the floor, open the bleeder, then closing it and pumping the clutch afterwards.

Can someone post a picture of the clutch bleeder?

Did this method work for someone else who has installed this kit on their own?

Everyone that seems to have this kit is in an automatic, which doesn't help me.

Thank you in advance!!
After installing the BBK here no bleeding of the brakes was needed. Didn't replace the master cylinder, so it was basically just the same as any other brake job.

I am confused as to why you are talking about the clutch. It has nothing to do with the brakes.
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:29 AM
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A few answers:

I went with TF kit because their MC had a provision for a manual transmission. Every review I read of Mopar BBK, people had to rig an additional reservoir as the upgraded MC doesn't have the barb required for the slave cylinder.

If you have a 2012+, you don't need to replace the MC as its already the upgraded model.

Manual models (to my knowledge), recycle excess fluid through the MC. If you have a manual, look at MC, on right side you'll see a line running off the MC and down towards transmission. If you have Auto, that line won't be there.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:21 AM   #15
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Lol. Yeah. That was brutal over there! Kjeeper, are you active memeber over there?
Lol actively read the BS.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:32 AM
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Lol actively read the BS.
I was a long time member of VWVortex and when I came here, I found the community to be fairly similar. Reading through the WAL forum is really odd and couldn't have been less helpful. I'm really not a fan of personal attacks on people on the Internet. It's about as lame as it gets. I funny comment is always appreciated, but that can be accomplished in more creative ways.

That being said, I am going to use the stainless braided line write up. It's fantastic
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Old 12-30-2016, 08:29 PM
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Well, I just finished the install and went out and did the break in as per TF instructions, here's my current setup and some first impressions on install:

2010 JK 6SPD with 2.5" Teraflex Spring/Shock (9550) installed. I'm running MT Classic III's with Nitto Trail Grappler 285/70/R17's (E rated). Additional weight includes TF front explorer bumper, winch, TF rock guard rear bumper.

Initial stopping is significantly improved over stock brakes. Pedal response is better than before as well. I'll update when I'm done.

Install notes:
-I ordered and installed new TF braided lines. I would not install these again. They are designed for a 3-4" lift and have excess material that, while not likely to get caught on a trail, could get caught on a trail. I also don't really care for the frame mounting brackets. I wish they had made them more adjustable as aligning them to the hard lines was a royal pain. One more note on this. The WAL instructions for the lines had the wrench sizes wrong for the hardline to braided line. I used a 12mm and a 9/16's (I think). Not that it's a big deal, but if you have a limited tool set, it could be an issue.
-I cut the slave return line barb with a set of Klein wire cutters. When I was done, it looked identical to the original MC. I'd be careful cutting it any other way, as the plastic seems pliable enough to close the hole if not severed cleanly. The crimp connector is easily slid out of the way with a set of needle nose pliers and installed back to its factory location after I installed the new MC
-The TF slotted rotors for the front were absolutely filthy from the factory. I had to clean them for awhile before install. In comparison, the powerstop rear rotors were spotless. Not sure why the TF rotors were so dirty.
-The outside pads took some work to get installed. I watched the YouTube like 6 times and mine went in nothing like they did in the TF install video. I had to seat the bottom portion first and kind of jam the upper portion past the carrier and into the slot. Again, not a big deal, but I'm always confused when something that looks so simple becomes such a head scratcher when you are doing it yourself.
-Cover your left front fender with a rag/cloth before doing MC replacement. I covered my fender in brake fluid and now it looks odd. Going to try some different cleaning methods this weekend. I don't really care since I'm putting flat fenders on in Spring, but if you like your fenders, do something to protect them.
-After install and bleeding of brakes, I searched the slave cylinder and bell housing for a bleeding mechanism for the clutch return line and couldn't find one. I gave up after about 15 minutes so I still haven't answered my original question. That being said, the clutch performs exactly as it did before the install so, I'm going to conclude that it's either not possible or not necessary. Again, if something comes up, I'll post for others benefit.
-Buy a brand new large bottle of DOT3 fluid. I used almost an entire bottle between bleeding and topping off after completion
-Make sure to have an Inch/foot torque wrench handy for bolts that hook to the calipers from the brake lines
-Have lots of shop rags handy and kitty litter for cleanup. I went through a ton trying to contain brake fluid. You probably won't go through as much if you're not doing the rear lines, but man, what a mess.
-They aren't kidding when they say you must have at least 17" wheels. I'd estimate the distance between the calipers and my wheels at under an inch. They are really close.

All of the MC notes are only for those JK/JKU's between 07-11 as the 12+ have the upgraded MC already installed.

If you're in Maryland and need some help, send a PM as I'm always up to turn some wrenches with fellow Jeepers.

Can't think of anything else of note. I'll post up again once I've really laid into the brakes.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:21 PM   #18
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@the_ox So it's been about a month on your install. Wondering if you've run into any problems with having not bleed the clutch? I decided to order the Mopar BB/MC after getting some spongy pedal feel following install of the Teraflex BBK front and BRK rear. I didn't think the 1/16th inch factory upgrade I researched would do much good, and decided to just go this route and get it over with. So, I'll be using a remote clutch reservoir and need to know what to do about bleeding it--or if I just don't need to worry about it.

Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2017, 01:18 PM
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No issues with clutch since the install. We searched for a bleeding site and couldn't locate one.

On a side note, I wouldn't do this upgrade again. I don't think the increased braking power is worth the cost. I'd probably just get new rotors and aggressive pads.
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Old 01-29-2017, 01:52 PM   #20
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No issues with clutch since the install. We searched for a bleeding site and couldn't locate one.

On a side note, I wouldn't do this upgrade again. I don't think the increased braking power is worth the cost. I'd probably just get new rotors and aggressive pads.
Thanks. Sorry to here about your regret for this mod. I really hope that the new brake booster tips my opinion in the opposite direction. I love the clamping power, but hate the 1/4 pedal travel with no response.
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Old 01-29-2017, 03:04 PM   #21
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Just for those reading this and doing any brake bleeding. I have used Russell Speed Bleeders for years on various vehicle. They have a ball check in them so you can do a bleed job with one person. Just make sure you keep the fluid topped off.

Russell's site says for 07-08. Did they change the bleeders after that? They may not have updated the site since the put them on it.

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Old 01-29-2017, 04:09 PM   #22
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Just for those reading this and doing any brake bleeding. I have used Russell Speed Bleeders for years on various vehicle. They have a ball check in them so you can do a bleed job with one person. Just make sure you keep the fluid topped off. Russell's site says for 07-08. Did they change the bleeders after that? They may not have updated the site since the put them on it. Allen
Sweet ill have to check these out
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:39 PM
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Thanks. Sorry to here about your regret for this mod. I really hope that the new brake booster tips my opinion in the opposite direction. I love the clamping power, but hate the 1/4 pedal travel with no response.
I wouldn't say I regret is so much as I don't think the cost is worth it. For me my rig is a toy and I get a lot of enjoyment out of doing the work, so it was worth it in that regard

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