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Old 10-29-2018, 05:52 PM
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Tire sizes for dana44??

Yes i'm new to the forum, not Jeeps. I know this has prob been covered. I can't find it however. Opinions on tire sizes the Dana44 will handle well? Bigger the better. I will be gearing down to 5.13 or 5.38's. Yes driving matters. I know the Rubi is capable and want to clear everything i can without breaking and 💸. Stacking bread currently for something i've wanted to do my whole life. I'm in an 2007 JK Rubi. Thanks in advance for the knowledge. I wanna do this as close to right as i can get the first time. The 2007 only has 38K. Looking for beef and best ways to get there. Thanks again 👊

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Old 10-29-2018, 05:57 PM   #2
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35" to be safe 37" if you want to take some chances and don't drive like a crazy person. There are people who can break D44's on 32" tires and guys who can do 10 rated trails on 37" tires and never have a problem.

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Old 10-29-2018, 06:19 PM   #3
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You can run 37's. C-gusset the front. Plan for chromoly rear axle shafts, I bent both of mine. If you play in the rocks, you'll need hydro ram assist steering.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:40 PM   #4
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is yours a automatic or manual?...if automatic i would not recommend more then 35" tires
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:56 PM   #5
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is yours a automatic or manual?...if automatic i would not recommend more then 35" tires
Based on what facts?
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:06 PM   #6
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Based on what facts?

4 spd automatic that does not come stock with a transmission cooler and has to be reprogrammed at the dealer (or programer) for the new tire size due to shift points.


if you have a manual 6spd, your speedo will just be off...
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:12 PM   #7
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They all need to be programmed for bigger tires. Adding a cooler isn’t a big deal. Sure 200 hp sucks but if you’re rock crawling, power isn’t everything. Light 37’s like coopers aren’t out of the realm of possibility with supporting mods.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:34 PM   #8
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You can run 37's. C-gusset the front. Plan for chromoly rear axle shafts, I bent both of mine. If you play in the rocks, you'll need hydro ram assist steering.
Only if you're trying to turn with your front locker on. No other reason.

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Old 10-29-2018, 08:46 PM   #9
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Only if you're trying to turn with your frjont locker on. No other reason.

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Not true at all. Iíve been there done that. Itís so Much fun having a spotter giving calls and you canít turn the wheel. Or keep wrenching on it like my wheeling buddy when he snapped a sector shaft at midnight in moab on the side of a canyon.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:48 PM   #10
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Only if you're trying to turn with your front locker on. No other reason.

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No other reason... really.

It takes the stress off of you box, frame, steering column, steering wheel, you and God knows what else.

When I'm on the trail the locker goes on and dosen't come off till I'm off the trail...

Go to Redneck Ram and order yourself a hydro kit...
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:51 PM   #11
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if you decide to get hydro - do yourself a favor and don't buy a redneck ram. Every piece of feedback I've seen from someone who had one of those was negative - tons of issues and most replaced with a different one.
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Old 10-29-2018, 10:09 PM   #12
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I have their 1.75 ram setup on my jeep. It's been turning in nothing but rocks for the last 4 years... I have not one bad thing to say about it. It works as it should and has never given me a problem.

So there you go... you have great feedback first hand!
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Old 10-30-2018, 05:22 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by COllllllOrado_JKRubi View Post
Yes i'm new to the forum, not Jeeps. I know this has prob been covered. I can't find it however. Opinions on tire sizes the Dana44 will handle well? Bigger the better. I will be gearing down to 5.13 or 5.38's. Yes driving matters. I know the Rubi is capable and want to clear everything i can without breaking and 💸. Stacking bread currently for something i've wanted to do my whole life. I'm in an 2007 JK Rubi. Thanks in advance for the knowledge. I wanna do this as close to right as i can get the first time. The 2007 only has 38K. Looking for beef and best ways to get there. Thanks again 👊
My 2 cents is to rip the rubi axle out of the front and get some money from someone who wants decently built factory stuff and put your stock into a Dynatrac https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemb...r-jeep-jk.html
Since you are running a 3.8 you have the right thoughts on gearing. You said you want beef and unless you are planning on some extreme rock crawling this package should be reasonable for you without overbuilding your Jeep. Sure you can go d60 for about 20 grand but why if you arent going to 40's and have a powerplant to test the 60's.
I built my JK with a PR 44 front axle locked with 35 sp. RCV shafts and stock rear housing with the 35 spline chromolys and an ARB air locker. I am running 37 Cooper STT pros on ATX slabs.
There probably is a market for your stock Rubi stuff so you have equity already. Not saying my way is the right way for everyone but it works great for me.

My last disclamer is this, you can break anything if you drive like a goon. You have to know yourself and what works for you. Since you have a history with Jeeps you know what you broke in the past. Bigger tires require a bigger wallet. Thats the truth if you do it one piece at a time or everything at once. Eventually things will wear out. Thats why we love Jeeps.
Good Luck.
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Old 10-30-2018, 05:58 AM   #14
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if you decide to get hydro - do yourself a favor and don't buy a redneck ram. Every piece of feedback I've seen from someone who had one of those was negative - tons of issues and most replaced with a different one.
This. Every person I know who tried to go cheaper with the redneck eventually pulled it for PSC hydroassist.
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:03 AM   #15
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My 2 cents is to rip the rubi axle out of the front and get some money from someone who wants decently built factory stuff and put your stock into a Dynatrac https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemb...r-jeep-jk.html
Since you are running a 3.8 you have the right thoughts on gearing. You said you want beef and unless you are planning on some extreme rock crawling this package should be reasonable for you without overbuilding your Jeep. Sure you can go d60 for about 20 grand but why if you arent going to 40's and have a powerplant to test the 60's.
I built my JK with a PR 44 front axle locked with 35 sp. RCV shafts and stock rear housing with the 35 spline chromolys and an ARB air locker. I am running 37 Cooper STT pros on ATX slabs.
There probably is a market for your stock Rubi stuff so you have equity already. Not saying my way is the right way for everyone but it works great for me.

My last disclamer is this, you can break anything if you drive like a goon. You have to know yourself and what works for you. Since you have a history with Jeeps you know what you broke in the past. Bigger tires require a bigger wallet. Thats the truth if you do it one piece at a time or everything at once. Eventually things will wear out. Thats why we love Jeeps.
Good Luck.
A stock 44 fully trussed and gusseted is a perfectly fine axle. No need to dump the stock axle. Personally with the 3.8 auto the problem is you can't really gear low enough to crawl 37s. Even with the 4:1 case. I would save the pennies for an LS swap, Atlas Transfercase or RubiKrawler reduction before an axle swap with the 3.8.
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:21 AM   #16
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No other reason... really.

It takes the stress off of you box, frame, steering column, steering wheel, you and God knows what else.

When I'm on the trail the locker goes on and dosen't come off till I'm off the trail...

Go to Redneck Ram and order yourself a hydro kit...
But just like every other Jeep mod - it is pick your poison. It does take stress off many components, but it doesn't eliminate it, it just puts it elsewhere. Tie rod and tie rod ends for one. Knuckles. I would also suspect its more stress on ball joints, wheel bearings. It just brings it down to the lower steering components rather than up at the box and draglink etc.
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:23 PM
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It's a 6 Speed manual. Not auto
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:23 PM   #18
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X’s 2 on the Redneck Ram. Love the way it handles and performs. Had it out at Hidden Falls this past weekend with 0 issues. I’ve read plenty of positive reviews from people running the RNR for awhile as well. Great guys to deal with also!
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Old 11-01-2018, 01:23 PM   #19
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Xís 2 on the Redneck Ram. Love the way it handles and performs. Had it out at Hidden Falls this past weekend with 0 issues. Iíve read plenty of positive reviews from people running the RNR for awhile as well. Great guys to deal with also!
I also have had positive reviews for guys running the Redneck Ram. One I was wheeling with and he was on 40's.

I know the consensus here is PSC and I know plenty of other people who run the PSC setup. Most are happy with that also but one guy seems to be eating cylinder seals on his ram. Not sure what up with that.

Leaning to the PSC system but as I hear more positive about the Redneck Ram, I'm getting tempted to try it.
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:43 AM   #20
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Redneck ram for me the last 4 years. Zero issue using their 1.5" ram and my 2012 stock pump with 130k miles on it. I chose to run a cooler and made my own hydrolic lines using aeroqup hoses and fittings. The ram itself is perfect no leaks or anything. I don't know what the guys above are talking about "pulling" it for PSC. PSC is nice but a little overkill for my taste. I spent half the amount for the same exact effect. PSC uses a larger reservoir, stronger pump and a 1.75 ram instead. The stock pump and a 1.5 form redneck ram has worked perfect for me and about 5 other guys I wheel with
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:46 AM   #21
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One other thing the guys at Redneck ram will ask you what size tires you are running. If you are going to use a stock pump I would use a 1.5 ram. If you say you are running 40s they are going to want to send you a 1.75 ram. That IMHO is a bit too much ram for the stock pump. Im thinking that's where people get frustrated and end up getting the PSC pump and larger reservoir from them to accommodate that ram. If you stick with the 1.5 with stock pump even on 40s you will be fine and will not need a pump (if you properly bleed your system)
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:13 AM   #22
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I wouldn't go bigger than 35s on a 44.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:12 AM   #23
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I have run 37s on my 2010 with the 3.8 engine for years. I have 5.13s. It is slow off the line, but fine off-road. I would not recommend 5.38s because the pinion gear is tiny and prone to failure. I won’t detail all the other mods you’ll want for 37s, but suffice it to say, they are expensive.
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:29 PM
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I have run 37s on my 2010 with the 3.8 engine for years. I have 5.13s. It is slow off the line, but fine off-road. I would not recommend 5.38s because the pinion gear is tiny and prone to failure. I won’t detail all the other mods you’ll want for 37s, but suffice it to say, they are expensive.
Thanks a lot. Here's the plan. 3.5 lift. Chromoly times 4. 5.13 gear down. "C" gusset front axle. Prob truss as well (later) . 37" Coopers, like their weight, look, pattern, and tread depth. Steering mod undecided. That should handle it, don't you think? Few others over time... I think that'll get it wheeling safe and tuff for now. See any chinks in the armor?
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:37 PM   #25
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Thanks a lot. Here's the plan. 3.5 lift. Chromoly times 4. 5.13 gear down. "C" gusset front axle. Prob truss as well (later) . 37" Coopers, like their weight, look, pattern, and tread depth. Steering mod undecided. That should handle it, don't you think? Few others over time... I think that'll get it wheeling safe and tuff for now. See any chinks in the armor?
Consider getting more life out of the stock shafts and diverting the money to a big brake kit. With 37s you’ll appreciate the extra stopping power.

I don’t know what wheels you’re going with, but if you have stock wheels you’ll want spacers. Otherwise you’ll rub.
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:08 PM   #26
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It all depends on how you wheel and if you are a technical driver or just like to mash the pedal down to get through stuff. I ran 35's, 37's and 40's on my D44's for years (C'd and trussed) and never had an issue (And yes I wheel it all the time). I went to a Fusion 4x4 D60 ($4k) rear only because I kept blasting the ring and pinion to pieces (5.38 is tiny on a D44, switched to 4.88) when I installed the 6.0L V8 Still running the front for the last 2 years on the D44 with no issues.

I also +1 on the Redneck ram and have had the 1.5" on my rig with 40's for the last 2 years without a single instance. Sorry but the PSC is not worth the extra money imo. You have your box ported and then have the same ram that psc sells without their sticker on it and hoses... wth do you think is so different for 2.5x more money?

Some people just like to spend a ton for no other reason then to brag about how much they spent
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:08 PM   #27
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5.38 and 37's with the 3.8. Not great, but doable. Do the C's and truss now and better axles when you can. PSC hydro assist and ball joints too...

And yes, you will need a programmer, but anyone changing tire sizes should already have one.
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:05 PM   #28
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I ran 37Ē Pitbulls on D44 with 5.38s for a few years without any problems. Depends on your driving habits.


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