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Old 02-03-2014, 07:19 PM
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dirt road inspector

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Trac Lock grease?

My oil change shop showed me how dirty the rear end grease is on my 2012. It was pretty black, if that was indeed the grease from my Jeep.

When I told them it was a trac lock with clutches and did they have the approved lube for that they didn't mention it again.

I do not off road my 2012 except for dirt trails you could take an El Dorado down. I have a CJ-7 for the rough stuff.

At 52k should I need to change the rear end grease?

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Old 02-03-2014, 08:09 PM   #2
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First of all, it's oil not grease. You are due to have front and rear changed at 52k. Don't go by the dealer showing you "black oil" and telling you it's dirty. Right after you change it with fresh oil, it will look black.

Don't be afraid to change it yourself. It's actually easier than changing your engine oil. There is a complete write up at Project JK.

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Old 02-03-2014, 08:17 PM   #3
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very easy to change a differential and I change mine every 10 - 15k unless I submerge my axle. pull the drain plug. let it drain. reinstall the drain plug and fill with your choice of 75w90 gear oil until the oil starts running out of the fill plug.

install fill plug and drive away.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:44 PM   #4
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It does need to have that LSD additive in it if it is in fact a trac-loc, correct?
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013 Moab View Post
It does need to have that LSD additive in it if it is in fact a trac-loc, correct?
yes, good catch for the clutch packs.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabber02 View Post
yes, good catch for the clutch packs.
As in my original post. Still no definitive answer, maybe in Tom's post.? Not sure of that forum. Link?
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:00 PM   #7
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If you have Trac lok lsd, you need to add a friction modifier to the oil. Most people use synthetic such as royal purple or Mobil one which includes it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:24 PM   #8
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I would change the front & rear. I used synthetic 75W90 in the front and 75W140 in the rear. I could have used 75W90 in the rear since I don't tow. The bottle indicated "limited slip" so no additive was needed. I don't need it for a Rubicon but I like running synthetic. All if not most synthetic gear oil has the additive in it. It will indicate it on the bottle. Non-syn., you'll have to add it if you have LSD. I agree 100% with daggo, the whole "black oil" thing is a scam. It will be black soon after you change it. In your case I agree that the mileage is the reason for the change. I also did my transfer case with synthetic ATF. I used Amsoil which meets or exceeds Chrysler ATF+4.

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