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Old 07-16-2019, 11:33 PM
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Wheel Spacer Question

Just installed 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers today. Removed clips, cleaned surface, used loctite, and torqued all lugs to 95 ft lbs. Instructions say to check spacers and torque after first 100 plus miles. How often should I, or do you guys check your spacers after that? Thanks

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Old 07-16-2019, 11:51 PM   #2
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Logical thing is to check them when you rotate the tires, if you rotate yourself. Last time I checked mine I think they had around 6k miles and hadn't budged, wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.

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Old 07-17-2019, 06:01 AM
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Logical thing is to check them when you rotate the tires, if you rotate yourself. Last time I checked mine I think they had around 6k miles and hadn't budged, wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.
Might as well rotate myself, if you are going to pull the tires off to check spacers anyway. Thanks
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:45 AM   #4
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wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.
Indeed, this is what Henkel says about removing red Loctite:

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When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550į F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, itís likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.
Before reading that, I was a bit concerned that re-torquing the spacer lugs might break loose the red Loctite, but now I'm not so sure.

On the other hand, with some effort I was able to remove the bolts holding the front seats to the floor with a regular old 3/8 ratchet, and I've been told those are installed with red Loctite (I didn't notice).
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:00 AM   #5
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I check mine at tire rotation.
Although I torque mine a little more than yours, then set my wrench 5 pounds short when I check them. That way I know they're tight but I'm not breaking the loctite.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:55 AM   #6
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For me, every 5k when I rotate my tires. Itís 1 extra step when I do it but Iíll take the added insurance. On a side note, torqued to 95lbs and hasnít moved since install after a year.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:21 AM   #7
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Every wheel removal. After a run in a particularly muddy area, I'm pulling all the wheels anyways, so they all get re-torqued. I also swap to street tires if the next offroad run isn't for 3 or more weeks, so do it with the swap to streets and swap back to offroads. And yes, I'm rotating every time. If I'm only pulling wheels on one axle, I'll swap the tires side to side on that axle or with the spare.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:25 PM
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Thanks all
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:38 PM   #9
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I checked mine at 100 miles and a couple had come a tiny bit loose so I retorqued them. Checked again at my last tire rotation which was about 1000 miles or so and it was all well and good. I torque mine a bit more than 95 pounds though. I think it was recommended at 100 - 105 but not sure as it's been a while. I plan on checking every tire rotation which I do around every oil change.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:13 AM   #10
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I'm not too familiar with blue locktite. I put them on my spacers as well. If I double check the torque and happen to turn it 1/8 -1/4 turn, did I just ruin the entire lock-tite, or will the blue locktite fight the nut the entire length of the stud?
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:12 AM   #11
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I'm not too familiar with blue locktite. I put them on my spacers as well. If I double check the torque and happen to turn it 1/8 -1/4 turn, did I just ruin the entire lock-tite, or will the blue locktite fight the nut the entire length of the stud?
All Loctite threadlocker products are a liquid in the presence of oxygen. They harden to a solid plastic when the parts are assembled and the oxygen goes away. They aren't reusable, so if you've turned it at all, you've probably broken that plastic.

Blue is meant to be removable with hand tools. Red is meant to be permanent. I would only use red on wheel spacers. The few wheel spacers I've bought over the years always come with a small bottle of red Loctite.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:29 PM
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I checked mine at 100 miles and a couple had come a tiny bit loose so I retorqued them. Checked again at my last tire rotation which was about 1000 miles or so and it was all well and good. I torque mine a bit more than 95 pounds though. I think it was recommended at 100 - 105 but not sure as it's been a while. I plan on checking every tire rotation which I do around every oil change.
I was recommended 110 and 105. But the instructions that came direct from Spidertrax said 90. So I met in the middle at 95
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:34 AM   #13
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All Loctite threadlocker products are a liquid in the presence of oxygen. They harden to a solid plastic when the parts are assembled and the oxygen goes away. They aren't reusable, so if you've turned it at all, you've probably broken that plastic.

Blue is meant to be removable with hand tools. Red is meant to be permanent. I would only use red on wheel spacers. The few wheel spacers I've bought over the years always come with a small bottle of red Loctite.
Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:17 AM   #14
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To answer the above question....for me, I use no locktite. But as mentioned, I've got the wheels off a lot more than "normal" people. I pull the wheels and use my air sprayer to clean the mud from brake components, so it's very easy to get the torque wrench in there to be sure they're still tight.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:24 AM   #15
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Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
For me the deciding factor was that many spacers include a bottle of red.

I'm a little skeptical of the necessity of the heat thing I quoted earlier. I've broken loose red loctite, probably most of us here have. It's on the bolts that hold your front seats down. It isn't easy but on strong hardware like that, the loctite certainly isn't stronger than the hardware itself.

As for the risks of applying heat, I don't know about the aluminum of the spacer itself but things like lugs would shrug off 550F. Back when I was racing, on the back straightaway at Sebring I could roast the 1200F stripe of heat-sensitive paint on my calipers -- lap after lap, all day long.

But honestly I suspect a breaker bar is all it takes.

As for the safety of spacers, I ran them for 10 years on a Ram that weighed nearly 8000 lbs and sometimes towed a 28' enclosed car trailer. I'd switch between big Mickey Thompson Baja MTs and Toyo E towing tires regularly. Never once touched the spacers. The shop who ordered them along with my wheels said they're install-and-forget and I guess I just trusted them on that.
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:02 AM   #16
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Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
You are right about your concerns.

I'm don't want to steer up another heated discussion about wheel adapters, but red-loctite and material fatigue are 2x key issues here that the average Joe just does not understand and as a result ignores.
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:21 AM   #17
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I'm don't want to steer up another heated discussion
But that's the whole reason Al Gore invented the Internet!
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:25 PM   #18
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I run TeraFlex 1.25" spacers. I like my oem wheels to stay inside the flares.

I used Red Loctite and on initial install I torqued to 100 ft lbs. I check every tire rotation (3-5k) but I use 90 ft lbs. This way I'm less likely to break the loctite, and at 90 they should still click immediately, which they always have.
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Old 07-26-2019, 05:59 AM
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I was nervous myself about running spacers, but all ive read is that if you dont go cheap, get hub-centric, torque properly on install, and check routinely (after first 100 miles, 500-1000 miles, then every tire rotation, you will be fine.
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Old 07-26-2019, 06:56 AM   #20
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I was nervous myself about running spacers, but all ive read is that if you dont go cheap, get hub-centric, torque properly on install, and check routinely (after first 100 miles, 500-1000 miles, then every tire rotation, you will be fine.
Early spacers were just that, spacers. They effectively shortened the lug nuts and were very dangerous. New hub centric ones are safe to use when properly installed.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:07 AM   #21
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Early spacers were just that, spacers. They effectively shortened the lug nuts and were very dangerous. New hub centric ones are safe to use when properly installed.
Egads. How early was that? The ones I put on my Ram in 2001 were just like those we use now.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:12 AM   #22
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Egads. How early was that? The ones I put on my Ram in 2001 were just like those we use now.
I would say at least 20 or 30 years ago it was common. They still sell spacers that are just that, spacers, for a variety of vehicles. It is not a good option now, and it wasn't a good option then. But not everything that is an option is a good option.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:55 AM   #23
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Egads. How early was that? The ones I put on my Ram in 2001 were just like those we use now.
iirc it was in the Muscle Car era or just before.
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Old 07-26-2019, 10:18 AM   #24
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iirc it was in the Muscle Car era or just before.
Or as I call it, "when I was in diapers"
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Old 07-26-2019, 10:32 AM   #25
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Or as I call it, "when I was in diapers"
touche`
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Old 07-26-2019, 01:18 PM   #26
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The "check torque" thing is just a safety net. The reality is that they are no more likely to come loose than the wheel itself is. They are made of stronger material, billet aluminum rather than cast and the studs are equal in strength to your factory hubs...

Just don't use these:

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Old 07-26-2019, 04:36 PM   #27
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I knew it would not take long until someone started with the BS.

I 'can't wait' for the infamous 'thread count argument'.
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Old 07-27-2019, 06:14 AM   #28
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This is your second drive-by, so what is "the BS" exactly?

I once watched a heated days-long "minimum thread engagement" argument ... on a forum about homebuilt racing drones. Really? They weigh ~2 lbs, put a frigging nylock on it and go crash into trees already. People really will literally argue about anything.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:13 AM   #29
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This is your second drive-by, so what is "the BS" exactly?
Pretty much everything that you read on forums about wheel adaptors.

People have been piggybacking on eachothers wrong information far to long and as a result bubbas internet BS has become widespread and apparently irrefutable knowledgebase.

I was once already involved in a discussion about this here on this forum and that was enough for me. It won't happen again. So I will leave it at that.
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:37 AM   #30
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Seems like you did the install spot on! I torqued mine at 100 lbs at install and checked at 100 miles with torque set to 95 lbs ( To ensure I donít break the loctite )

I then checked again after oil change and 5-tire rotation ( Conveniently at 1000 miles after the first check). Again I checked it at 95 lbs and all was good! I do go off road on wash board fire roads, sand and minor rocks and they do me just fine. Highway rides at 80-90 mph

So long as youíre running hub-centric spacers ( like the spidertrax ) you will be fine. Iím gonna make it a thing to check the Torque on them every oil change but thatís just me. My buddy doesnít check his at all after the 100 mile check up and he wheels harder then I do LOL


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