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Old 12-18-2016, 10:30 AM
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Winch power disconnect/overload protection

Looking for some ideas for a high amperage power disconnect (contactor) and circuit breaker for my winch. I currently leave the power cable disconnected because I don't want the risk of the power cable shorting out somewhere and burning down my Jeep. If I am going offroad I take the min to reconnect it. Not a big deal but looking for a more permanent solution.

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Old 12-18-2016, 10:41 AM   #2
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How high of an AMP you looking for? I got a Bussman Auxiliary Panel (kind of an sPOD) from a forum member that puts those together and he included an 80AMP breaker in the deal, the breaker has a lever that breaks off when you overload it, and you just simply slide the thing back in to restore power.. you can also push a button in the breaker and the thing brakes off (manually triggered), I'm thinking that kind of concept will work, you'd just need to push the button to ensure the thing is disconnected, and slide the thing back in when you go wheeling...


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Old 12-18-2016, 10:47 AM   #3
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I think the challenge is the high amperage draw doesnt allow anything other than a manual disconnect switch. But the risk should be minimal. It's the same way your starter is essentially hooked up.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:48 AM   #4
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I think you are looking for something like a winch power interrupt kit.



You could utilize a normal rocker switch associated with a bussman or spod panel to turn it on and off

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Old 12-18-2016, 10:51 AM   #5
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if you want an electronic approach It's gonna be pricey.

EV200AAANA TE Connectivity Aerospace, Defense and Marine | Relays | DigiKey

You may want to think about a manual battery disconnect switch.. Tons of varieties out there. Just Google Manual Battery Disconnect Switch.. Also, you should know what your winch operating amperage is and make sure the switch can handle the load.. Winches use tons of amperage, reason they are direct connected.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:56 AM   #6
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OP.. I need to do the same thing. I might go with this. A battery disconnect from Blue Sea. It's rated for a continuous 600 amp draw, which we all know a winch (model depending) can draw close to 400A at max load. I figure this would be good.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/300...Battery_Switch

or

https://www.bluesea.com/products/300...witch_with_AFD
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:59 AM   #7
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I think you are looking for something like a winch power interrupt kit.



You could utilize a normal rocker switch associated with a bussman or spod panel to turn it on and off

Rogue,,, that solenoid switch is more commonly used for ATV winches.. they will not handle the continuous operating load we use in our jeeps. Your winch may work with this, just make sure you check the continuous operating load on your winch against the same on the switch. I didnt see a spec sheet on your solenoid so i cant help you there..
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:19 AM   #8
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Winch power disconnect/overload protection

Yep sorry should have added to check the current requirements for the winch. That was just a quick search on amazon to show an example. I don't personally have on yet. Just have the rocker set up for a future install.

I didn't see a rating on it but I have seen it installed on JK's for winch power
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:39 AM   #9
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Capt JK is certainly correct about that solenoid setup. It can't handle an 8k or larger winch. A winch pulls maximum current every time it starts up. It doesn't do it for long, just a few milliseconds until the motor revs up but repeated operations will arc, heat, or warp the contacts. (Which is why the winch instructions tell you not to 'bump' the winch in but to use continuous pulls because it does it to the winches contactors too.)

Hafady's Blue Sea disconnect is a do-able solution. However, the switch has 1/2" terminals so you will have to have a new Pico connector put on the end of the hot wire with a hydraulic crimper. You will also need a jumper cable with a 1/4" terminal on one end and a 1/2" terminal on the other provided you are going from the Jeeps battery terminal. If you are going from the side terminal on a dual post battery then the 1/4" end of the jumper needs to be a 5/16" terminal. http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-15.pdf

On the other hand, you could just disconnect the hot wire until you hit the trail and then reconnect it while you air down and pull your quick disconnects. Or, you can just surround the hot wire with split-loom plastic tubing like the stuff that Warn winches come with so that any sharp metal doesn't rub through the jacket of the hot wire and leave it hooked up 24/7.

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Old 12-18-2016, 11:40 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Rogue26 View Post
Yep sorry should have added to check the current requirements for the winch. That was just a quick search on amazon to show an example. I don't personally have on yet. Just have the rocker set up for a future install.

I didn't see a rating on it but I have seen it installed on JK's for winch power
a lot of those solenoid switches have a high amp momentary rating but a low continuous operating rating. It may work for some low duty use but i would be very careful relying on those switches out in the trails. I've heard a lot of failure stories with those.. A quick fix in that case would direct connect to the battery if you have enough slack in your feed cable. I tried to find a spec sheet on your model and Google could not come up with one.
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:32 PM   #11
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Power supply goes to the open post, then to the disconnect, then to the winch.
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:51 PM   #12
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Power supply goes to the open post, then to the disconnect, then to the winch.
Is that bother all breaker part of the winch power circuit? If so I think it may be a little too lite on the amperage if you ever put a hard pull on the winch.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:15 PM   #13
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Is that bother all breaker part of the winch power circuit? If so I think it may be a little too lite on the amperage if you ever put a hard pull on the winch.
No but thanks for asking. It is a 150amp matched for the distribution block, which is rated 150amp. The second line from the dual post goes to the breaker, then to the distribution block.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:21 PM   #14
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https://www.warn.com/truck/accessori...onnect_all.jsp
I have been kicking around adding this.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:33 PM   #15
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Power supply goes to the open post, then to the disconnect, then to the winch.
Nice set up!
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:37 PM   #16
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https://www.warn.com/truck/accessori...onnect_all.jsp
I have been kicking around adding this.
Thats the way to go.. I seen a guy do his disconnect up front by the bumper. He also had a pair of jumper cables with matching connector.. It served two purposes, Winch and a Jumper connections.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:12 PM   #17
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I have a Marinco 701 disconnect for my winch, but I haven't installed it yet. You can remove the keyed switch to prevent tampering. It's rated 275A continuous and 475A intermittent.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:41 PM   #18
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I have a Marinco 701 disconnect for my winch, but I haven't installed it yet. You can remove the keyed switch to prevent tampering. It's rated 275A continuous and 475A intermittent.
I wouldn't install it... Most winches we use are going to pull upwards of 450 amps continuous. Your switch is not even close. Jadmt has the best approach. The highamp connector. There are utube videos by the dozen showing winch mishaps where the winch motor is locked on. Having the quick disconnect would certainly provide a little comfort knowing you can quickly pull power in that situation
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:06 PM   #19
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I wouldn't install it... Most winches we use are going to pull upwards of 450 amps continuous. Your switch is not even close. Jadmt has the best approach. The highamp connector. There are utube videos by the dozen showing winch mishaps where the winch motor is locked on. Having the quick disconnect would certainly provide a little comfort knowing you can quickly pull power in that situation
The BlueSea I have listed in my posts is 300amp cont/500amp int. My winch pull is 340amp at full pull (9500lbs). So far no problems.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:31 PM   #20
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The BlueSea I have listed in my posts is 300amp cont/500amp int. My winch pull is 340amp at full pull (9500lbs). So far no problems.
I always go for overkill then underkill.. your switch is under rated for your winch. I know have no problems 'yet' but you'll be working on the verge of one.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:09 AM   #21
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Replaced all my cables with #2 cable when I replaced my battery and installed the winch. BlueSea switch and power post. Made new cables to the winch and alternator output. The BlueSea switch kills the power to the winch and jumper cable QD.

BlueSea specs
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:42 AM   #22
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I always go for overkill then underkill.. your switch is under rated for your winch. I know have no problems 'yet' but you'll be working on the verge of one.
Sure. BlueSea lists 'intermittent' as a duration less than 5 minutes if I read their specifications correctly. So unless I let my winch run for over 5 minutes in a single pull by my estimation the switch will be fine. If you look at others who have built similar systems they have used the same 'underrated' switches.

FYI for everyones reference there is a m-Series switch 300/500amp, e-Series 350/600amp, and HD-Series 600/900amp.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:28 PM
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Thanks all for contributing your ideas and concerns. I would be perfectly happy with just a manual disconnect that I could mount near my batteries. I have even talked to the winch manufacturer and they say it is normal and recommended practice to connect their power cable direct to the battery but my brain is telling me it isn't a good idea to have a 2ga cable running from my battery and through the front of my Jeep without some sort of circuit protection. We have all seen what electrical fires do to automobiles. They happen unexpectedly, spread fast and usually end in a total loss.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:58 PM   #24
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Thanks all for contributing your ideas and concerns. I would be perfectly happy with just a manual disconnect that I could mount near my batteries. I have even talked to the winch manufacturer and they say it is normal and recommended practice to connect their power cable direct to the battery but my brain is telling me it isn't a good idea to have a 2ga cable running from my battery and through the front of my Jeep without some sort of circuit protection. We have all seen what electrical fires do to automobiles. They happen unexpectedly, spread fast and usually end in a total loss.
The thing i freak about more is someone plugging a control cable into my winch and having fun with whatever their mischief minds are thinking, much less steel my expensive winch rope. I do like the disconnect approach and favor the high amp connector over a switch.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:10 PM   #25
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The thing i freak about more is someone plugging a control cable into my winch and having fun with whatever their mischief minds are thinking, much less steel my expensive winch rope. I do like the disconnect approach and favor the high amp connector over a switch.
I really don't think that's likely enough to be cause for concern. Is it possible? Yes. Is it as likely as you being in a total loss crash while driving your Jeep to work? Not even close.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:59 PM   #26
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I wouldn't install it... Most winches we use are going to pull upwards of 450 amps continuous. Your switch is not even close. Jadmt has the best approach. The highamp connector. There are utube videos by the dozen showing winch mishaps where the winch motor is locked on. Having the quick disconnect would certainly provide a little comfort knowing you can quickly pull power in that situation
I'm going to install it eventually. I appreciate your concern, but I do a lot of power electrical work. I don't see a problem with the contacts for my limited winching use.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:28 PM   #27
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Rogue,,, that solenoid switch is more commonly used for ATV winches.. they will not handle the continuous operating load we use in our jeeps. Your winch may work with this, just make sure you check the continuous operating load on your winch against the same on the switch. I didnt see a spec sheet on your solenoid so i cant help you there..
The Warn power interrupt kit will work fine with a winch for the JK. It was intended to run with the warn winches. I use the Warn interrupt kit and power the winch through my sPOD for my WarnZeon 10S winch. There are a few threads about this & I posted them below.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/wa...h-1741209.html

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/ca...h-1622025.html

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/wi...d-1248977.html

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/ba...ll-916409.html

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/wi...ce-868858.html
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:58 PM   #28
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As long as you have a power cable hooked up to your battery you take the chance of a short. Have a switch or a solenoid will make no difference so ever. In fact all it does is become another point of possible failure. What is needed is a fuse or circuit breaker. Fuses are cheap and easy to carry a spare around. Something like this:

DonRowe.com: ANLBF500, 500A ANL Fuse Kit

A couple of things to reduce your risks. First protect you cable. I like to protect my positive cable with split plastic wire loom size correctly for the cable. It is very tough and is really important in anyplace the wire may chafe. You don't need to sleeve the whole wire just at the points where chafing may be a problem. Second mount your circuit breaker of fuse as close to the power source as possible. It does no good you mount the fuse at the winch, the fuse is to protect the wiring not the winch.
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:47 PM
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As long as you have a power cable hooked up to your battery you take the chance of a short. Have a switch or a solenoid will make no difference so ever. In fact all it does is become another point of possible failure. What is needed is a fuse or circuit breaker. Fuses are cheap and easy to carry a spare around. Something like this:

DonRowe.com: ANLBF500, 500A ANL Fuse Kit

A couple of things to reduce your risks. First protect you cable. I like to protect my positive cable with split plastic wire loom size correctly for the cable. It is very tough and is really important in anyplace the wire may chafe. You don't need to sleeve the whole wire just at the points where chafing may be a problem. Second mount your circuit breaker of fuse as close to the power source as possible. It does no good you mount the fuse at the winch, the fuse is to protect the wiring not the winch.
I agree with the slight exception that at least if you do manage to chafe through a wire the short won't happen randomly if you have the battery disconnect off. But you will know it right away when you flip that switch! I run ANL fusing to my accessory panel/ARB pump and my amplifiers. And ALL power wiring is always in split loom and or expandable braided wire protection. I pick all the parts up at West Marine so it's all good weather protected components.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:39 PM   #30
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I really don't think that's likely enough to be cause for concern. Is it possible? Yes. Is it as likely as you being in a total loss crash while driving your Jeep to work? Not even close.
just making a point that leaving the dam thing connected straight to the battery shouldn't be a concern.. and if it does bother you, if if it bothered me,, i would go with an high amp connector. And by the way.. I have read a couple forum post where someone did experience a winch mischief when someone connected a controller.. I think the point is,, someone is going to do the mischief thing before you will experience a problem with your winch direct connected.. Thats all !

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