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Old 09-08-2017, 10:09 PM
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Cool Window Switch Fail 2010 2 Door Jeep Wrangler Sport

Aloha everyone. My windows intermittently stopped working on my 2010 2 Door Jeep Wrangler Sport. I took it to the dealer, they said it was the window switch, and charged me $140 for the diagnosis. Rather than pay them another fortune to replace the switch plus wait 3 weeks for it to be shipped to Hawaii, I ordered a switch on Amazon, got it in 3 days and replaced it myself. It did not fix the problem. The passenger windows still works intermittently, the driver side not at all, both with the new and old switch. So it is not the switch. Has this happened to anyone else? What was the diagnosis and fix? Help! And thank you!

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Old 09-09-2017, 11:25 AM   #2
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Cool Aloha to Big Island

So , are you on the Hilo or the Kona side ? I really like to go fast on Saddle Road . I won't be a wise guy and ask if you have tried to hand-crank the window ? Seriously , anything involving electronics is a gold mine for stealerships , especially when they charge you excessively for diagnosis , when they are guessing . I prefer Jeeps without any of those extra electronics ; best to not buy power windows in the first place . Your best bet would be to find an independent , experienced Jeep mechanic , and not go to a stealership .

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Old 09-09-2017, 12:12 PM   #3
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Aloha! How much was the dealerships switch? Is the diagnosis fee waved with repair? Most dealerships wave the fee with repair, they charge a diagnosis fee because to many people want to know what the problem is and then leave and fix it them selves. Did you get a real MOPAR switch or some knockoff?
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Old 09-09-2017, 06:03 PM   #4
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It's actually common with most JK's that the computer somehow losses the connection with the window switches. As long as there's not a problem with the door strap connections, switches or regulator motors, all you have to do to get the computer to re-boot is to cycle the ignition. If that still doesn't take care of it a quick battery disconnect/reconnect usually works. If it doesn't, then there's a physical connection problem with the switch(s), wiring to the switches, or possibly other wiring connections. I make sure that I cycle the windows at least once every few weeks if they haven't been used in order to maintain the connection with the computer. I know how that sounds, but it works.
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:42 PM   #5
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Cool @kik ; how do you cycle the ignition ?

@kik ; you recommend to cycle the ignition . How do you cycle the ignition ? Thanks .
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:15 PM   #6
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@kik ; you recommend to cycle the ignition . How do you cycle the ignition ? Thanks .
I meant that the JK should be turned off and then started again. Sometimes that's all it takes for the computer to recognize the input from the switches to activate the windows. Sometimes a battery disconnect/reconnect has to be done, given it's just a computer command issue.
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Old 09-27-2017, 03:44 PM   #7
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At the switches harness connector you need to check for power to both switches. If the power is missing to the drivers side or passenger side switches it may be time to check the harness at the TIPM or where the relays are that supply power to the harness connector.
I suspect living in Hawaii with the high humidity; oxidized electrical connections are a problem.
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:09 PM
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So , are you on the Hilo or the Kona side ? I really like to go fast on Saddle Road . I won't be a wise guy and ask if you have tried to hand-crank the window ? Seriously , anything involving electronics is a gold mine for stealerships , especially when they charge you excessively for diagnosis , when they are guessing . I prefer Jeeps without any of those extra electronics ; best to not buy power windows in the first place . Your best bet would be to find an independent , experienced Jeep mechanic , and not go to a stealership .
Lol, old8tora! I live on the Hilo side, and no, don't have a hand crank. Went to the stealership (love that!) and they diagnosed it as a bad switch. Ha. To save $$ I bought one on Amazon and put it in myself. Turns out it wasn't the switch, but a broken wire. I requested a refund for their incorrect diagnosis and the part I bought. Still waiting for a response, since the manager is out of town.
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:12 PM
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At the switches harness connector you need to check for power to both switches. If the power is missing to the drivers side or passenger side switches it may be time to check the harness at the TIPM or where the relays are that supply power to the harness connector.
I suspect living in Hawaii with the high humidity; oxidized electrical connections are a problem.
Hi CharlesS,
It was a broken wire, so you are right. Found that out after all the fuss with the dealer misdiagnosing it as a bad switch. From now on, I'll check the wiring. Here in Hawaii where it is so humid, rubber, plastic, metal and everything else deteriorates quickly. Thanks for your response!
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:24 AM
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Aloha! How much was the dealerships switch? Is the diagnosis fee waved with repair? Most dealerships wave the fee with repair, they charge a diagnosis fee because to many people want to know what the problem is and then leave and fix it them selves. Did you get a real MOPAR switch or some knockoff?
Hi Lee,
The dealer was going to charge $140 for the switch plus $70 labor to put it in. I got a MOPAR for $78. Can't return it. They were not planning to waive the diagnosis with repair to my knowledge. Things are different here.

It ended up being a broken wire at the door hinge. Asking the dealer for a refund since they misdiagnosed.
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:27 AM
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I meant that the JK should be turned off and then started again. Sometimes that's all it takes for the computer to recognize the input from the switches to activate the windows. Sometimes a battery disconnect/reconnect has to be done, given it's just a computer command issue.
Hi kik,
Restarting worked for a while, then didn't. It was a broken wire. Fixed it and it's working great now.
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:36 AM   #12
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The dealer was going to charge $140 for the switch plus $70 labor to put it in. I got a MOPAR for $78. Can't return it. They were not planning to waive the diagnosis with repair to my knowledge. Things are different here.

It ended up being a broken wire at the door hinge. Asking the dealer for a refund since they misdiagnosed.
Good luck getting a dealership to admit they are wrong and then refund you for them being wrong....
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Old 09-29-2017, 01:38 PM   #13
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Hi kik,
Restarting worked for a while, then didn't. It was a broken wire. Fixed it and it's working great now.
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Old 03-07-2018, 04:27 AM   #14
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Hi kik,
Restarting worked for a while, then didn't. It was a broken wire. Fixed it and it's working great now.
Where was the broken wire?


I've got a similar problem for a few months now.

Windows would all go down fine. Sometimes would not go back up or front windows & passenger rear would go up but not driver rear. Required a key cycle, put manual trans in neutral, turn off all electrical components, and apply parking brake to reset.
When it's in failure mode, if you hit the front window switches to down, the switches themselves chatter/squeal; the rear switches are silent.

I have MaxCare and went to the dealer. They diagnosed a bad switch and replaced it under warranty. It failed immediately.
It works fine at first in neutral, running, parking brake on. Starts to fail when put in gear and begins to roll. Will only reset when parking brake and key cycle thing done.

Back to dealer. Chrysler Tech Assist tells them to reboot everything; that doesn't work.

Back to dealer. For three weeks. Chrysler Tech Assist works closely with local dealer tech and they determine a failed TIPM.
TIPMs on national backorder. But they locate one in TN and get it shipped (slowly) here. They installed it yesterday. That didn't work.

I'm going mental. They've given me a new Cherokee as a loaner. 2WD.

Anybody?

....help help help....
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:31 AM   #15
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The Chrysler Super-Tech went to my dealer on Friday and deduced that it was the rear window switch that had gone bad. They borrowed a new switch from an in-stock used Wrangler, and the windows worked. This is with the swapped TIPM installed that they had gotten from a dealership in TN.

So they rush ordered a new window switch and installed it yesterday. And I went there to pick up my Jeep.

FCA had ordered my dealer to disconnect all of my doo-dads (ham radio, cb radio, brake controller, winch, lights) so I had to do that in the parking lot.
After that, I fired the Jeep up, checked the windows several times, and pointed myself toward home.
Felt good.
I up/downed/upped the windows a few more times. Giggled.

Then I squirted the windshield to get the bird crap off and the wipers didn't come on.

I tried the wipers a few more times and no success. So I made a U-turn and headed back to the dealer.

Tech came out and checked everything. Removed the TIPM that they had gotten from the dealer in TN (box wasn't sealed; it was taped shut, used) and hit the wiper slots with a meter ---- shorted.

They had replaced a bad TIPM with a bad TIPM.
So they gave me a JKU loaner and I went home dejected. New JK TIPMs are on national back-order.

I'm going to crosspost this in the General section to give HG back her thread. Her windows aren't working again, btw.
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Old 03-12-2018, 02:15 PM
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I'm so sorry to hear that, Bill. It amazes me that the dealer can't get things right. I'm about to get rid of my Jeep and get a Toyota or something that doesn't have so many weird problems.

Last month, the shift cable bushing broke. Part #68064273AB. We paid $8 for this tiny PLASTIC part and spent countless hours trying to put it on with our mechanic friend. It should have been easy. We finally had to jury rig a tool to get it on. Yes, we could have gone to the dealer, but appointments were 3 weeks out.

What's next? Glad you have a loaner.

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