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Old 06-14-2019, 07:46 PM
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Unhappy Yet another brake squeak thread - help save this JKUR from my wrath

Hi all,

I've been having a persistent brake squeak issue for some time with my 2012 JKUR. I'm so frustrated that I'm about the drive the thing off a cliff. Please help me save it.

The JK is on a 3.5" AEV DualSport RS lift, on 35" tires (which I installed). It has about 60k miles on it. When I got it, it had aftermarket pads on it. Something really crappy on the front (with no markings and they didn't even have chamfered edges) and some ACDelco pads in the back. Brakes started squeaking shortly after we got it. Medium to light brake pressure, fairly constant noise. Usually goes away under hard braking. It's really hard to pin it down to any one corner, or even front/back.

I service this Jeep myself, along with our four other cars. I've done lots of brakes, I know how to properly clean and lube them, and this is the only vehicle I've ever had where I can't make them quiet. Each time I clean/lube in the description below, I put good brake grease on the backs of both pads, on the tabs that slide into the brake hardware, in the brake hardware clips themselves, and clean and re-lube the sliders with silicone grease.

So, when the noise first started, I did what I do, and took everything apart, cleaned, lubed, reinstalled. They were immediately perfectly quiet, but the noise returned within 100 miles. Since the fronts were so cheesy looking, I replaced them with Hawk LTS, and cleaned/re-lubed all four corners. No noise for about 100 miles, then it returned. I got better brake grease (some CRC ultra with ceramic solids) and re-did all four corners. Quiet again, until they weren't. Then I replaced the rears with Hawk LTS. Since the Hawks don't come with new brake hardware, I got new clips for all four corners and replaced, cleaned, lubed all four corners while installing the new rear pads. Quiet for a while, until they weren't. Getting a little desperate, I tried some CRC Disc Brake quiet on them. I've never had to use this stuff, and feel like it's probably a crutch, but figured it would be worth a shot. Cleaned and re-lubed when I put that stuff on all four corners. Quiet for a while, then not.

I've read that the rear axle shafts are prone to bending and that when they do, they can cause all manner of brake noise. So, I've put it up on stands, put it in drive and looked at the flanges with no rotors whole rotating and they seem fine. I've installed the rotors, pinned them on with a lug nut and let them spin, but they look fine. I installed the wheels (thinking even with imperfect tires, they would exaggerate any wobble) but...they're shockingly true. I haven't put a runout gauge on them, but I kinda think they're not bent. I cleaned the rotor mating surfaces and the flanges before putting rotors back on by the way.

We do wheel it (not super hard) and take it off-road a fair bit. Getting things dusty and dirty does seem to accelerate the return of the noise, but there are periods between cleaning/lubing and the return of the noise where it hasn't been off the pavement. It's not a daily driver and sits in a garage most of the time.

At this point, I'm kinda at the end of my rope. I can replace rotors, but they look fine and I'm not sure why they would be the problem. I'd put new pads on if I had high confidence that the Hawks are the problem (but I don't think they are). I would actually love an excuse to replace the whole setup with one of the beefier kits to get better braking in general, but I also know that doing so will put me in a less-common situation for resolving issues like this.

Does anyone have any other ideas for me to try? If not and I'm going to give up, should I take it to a dealer? Or an off-road type shop? Or a brake specialist kinda place? Or should I drive it off a cliff?

Also, please don't tell me to turn the radio up, or embrace the noise, etc. We do a lot of camping, especially in the summer and I'm totally sick of bothering other campers as I squeak my way through the forest. Brakes shouldn't squeak, even on a Jeep, and I feel like there's a proper solution in here somewhere.

Thanks!

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Old 06-15-2019, 11:16 AM   #2
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:46 PM   #3
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The only pads Ive had noise free on my JK have been Centrics. I went thru a few brands before getting it quiet. Same stuff as you described. Even threw out the spendy Dynatrac pads that came with my Big rotor kit as they squeeked within 100 miles. Once again went back to the Centrics. Quiet again and no difference in braking.
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Old 06-15-2019, 06:37 PM   #4
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My rear squeaks because I have a bent axle flange on the rear. It took me a while to figure it out but it goes away under braking..
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Old 06-15-2019, 09:12 PM   #5
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Brake squeal is the worst. Don't give up. Wish I had the answer to your problem. Many different causes from all that I have read. Maybe try attacking it one wheel at a time to at least isolate the source of the squeal if not the cause.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:24 AM
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The only pads Ive had noise free on my JK have been Centrics. I went thru a few brands before getting it quiet. Same stuff as you described. Even threw out the spendy Dynatrac pads that came with my Big rotor kit as they squeeked within 100 miles. Once again went back to the Centrics. Quiet again and no difference in braking.
Hmm, interesting. How are the Centrics in terms of braking performance compared to the stock ones? The Hawks are definitely massively better than the stock ones in terms of performance.

Do you have actual part numbers or model names? Were they ceramic?

Thanks for the info!
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:50 AM   #7
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Tell us about the rotors, miles, ever turned, new with last pads.......
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:01 PM   #8
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Waaaay better then stock. Actually no difference vs the spendy dynatrac pads that came with the big rotor kit, I went with. Unfortunately those damn pads also started squeaking with light/normal braking like all the other sets within 100 miles. Heavy braking no squeal. Normal braking to a stop squeal every time. Frt CE 105.12730 and rear CE 104.12740. Fronts are ceramic and rear semi metallic. The rear biased braking on these JKs, I think make SM a necessity on the rear for longevity sake.

Of course turning rotors with new pads at a minimum for noise. Personally Im not a big turning rotor guy and always replace em. Thats your call. Definitely at least turn em.

Just fyi on the bent flanges..... I had that issue too when I bent a flange on Factory 10 axles when I was still running a D44 on mine. A bent flange noise is a steady chirp with no brakes applied and usually at slow speeds is most noticeable. What you described isnt a bent flange. Just noisy brakes. Hope this help. Like I said I went through the same crap as you. Only thing thats kept my rig quiet stopping is my current setup. They been quiet for easily over 30k.
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:36 PM
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Waaaay better then stock. Actually no difference vs the spendy dynatrac pads that came with the big rotor kit, I went with. Unfortunately those damn pads also started squeaking with light/normal braking like all the other sets within 100 miles. Heavy braking no squeal. Normal braking to a stop squeal every time. Frt CE 105.12730 and rear CE 104.12740. Fronts are ceramic and rear semi metallic. The rear biased braking on these JKs, I think make SM a necessity on the rear for longevity sake.

Of course turning rotors with new pads at a minimum for noise. Personally Im not a big turning rotor guy and always replace em. Thats your call. Definitely at least turn em.

Just fyi on the bent flanges..... I had that issue too when I bent a flange on Factory 10 axles when I was still running a D44 on mine. A bent flange noise is a steady chirp with no brakes applied and usually at slow speeds is most noticeable. What you described isnt a bent flange. Just noisy brakes. Hope this help. Like I said I went through the same crap as you. Only thing thats kept my rig quiet stopping is my current setup. They been quiet for easily over 30k.
Okay, thanks. I haven't had them turned or replaced them. I've never had persistent noise like this, and I never turn rotors when I do pads on other vehicles unless it's time to replace the rotors. If they look pristine, I have a hard time understanding why that would need to be done, and it's never failed me before. But, I guess that's something I need to explore. Perhaps I'll just get the pads you suggest and go for new rotors at the same time and hope for the best.

Thanks for all the info. At least knowing others have fought the fight and won is very encouraging
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:37 PM   #10
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You should always break in pads with a rough surface. A glazed rotor surface to break in new pads is a great way to cause you grief with noises. Nowadays rotors are so thin, turning em is a sure bet theyll be warped and causing issues in a few 1000 miles. Not to say you cant turn em, but I never do. Id rather spend a few extra bucks for new rotors and be done with the job for awhile and not back in there replacing em anyways in a few 1000 miles.

Rotors and the Centrics and you'll be good to go. Dont forget to check your emergency brake shoes and hardware while rotors are off in the back.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:46 AM   #11
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I have found that Loctite Moly Paste works very well on pads & contact points for anti-squeal. 3M Brake Lube also does fairly well, but doesn't seem to 'go the distance' like the Loctite Moly Paste. Other lubricants like CRC Disc Brake Caliper Lube only seem to work very short term for me.


My JK had an annoying brake squeal when I first got it. I took the brakes apart, cleaned everything and properly lubed the pad contact points with Loctite Moly Paste. That was about 20k miles ago and they haven't squealed since. Lots of wheeling, lots of dirt & mud, and lots of flushing the caliper areas with water after wheeling to clean them out.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:06 PM
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You should always break in pads with a rough surface. A glazed rotor surface to break in new pads is a great way to cause you grief with noises. Nowadays rotors are so thin, turning em is a sure bet theyll be warped and causing issues in a few 1000 miles. Not to say you cant turn em, but I never do. Id rather spend a few extra bucks for new rotors and be done with the job for awhile and not back in there replacing em anyways in a few 1000 miles.

Rotors and the Centrics and you'll be good to go. Dont forget to check your emergency brake shoes and hardware while rotors are off in the back.
Aight, I'm gonna do some new rotors and pads and bite the bullet. I'm not really finding a lot of places to get the Centric pads, which is a little concerning. In your quest did you try other ceramics in front and find that they too made noise? Seems weird for such a seemingly uncommon pad to be the best option, but I definitely feel compelled to replicate your success
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:44 PM
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I have found that Loctite Moly Paste works very well on pads & contact points for anti-squeal. 3M Brake Lube also does fairly well, but doesn't seem to 'go the distance' like the Loctite Moly Paste. Other lubricants like CRC Disc Brake Caliper Lube only seem to work very short term for me.


My JK had an annoying brake squeal when I first got it. I took the brakes apart, cleaned everything and properly lubed the pad contact points with Loctite Moly Paste. That was about 20k miles ago and they haven't squealed since. Lots of wheeling, lots of dirt & mud, and lots of flushing the caliper areas with water after wheeling to clean them out.
Okay, I ordered some of that as well. I've tried a couple different types of stuff during my quest, currently on Permatex Ceramic Extreme because it's specifically for brakes. Also, it's extreme and purple, so...must be good?

But, I'll try the Loctite stuff when I go do this next round. It's expensive, but, I'm on the losing end of a "throwing money at this" battle so what the heck. Given that everything is quiet as can be right after I service them, it would definitely seem to point to a failure of the lube as that's really all that is changing over time, so I can see "better lube" being helpful.

I'm really hoping that I've just been insanely lucky in the past with changing pads without rotors, that this is karma giving me an enema to catch up, and that replacing pads again with new rotors will be my ticket to sanity.
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Old 06-19-2019, 11:03 PM   #14
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I'm really hoping that I've just been insanely lucky in the past with changing pads without rotors...
I've owned several cars for a lot of miles and the only time I have ever changed rotors was just recently on my DD 06 Subaru Legacy with 141k on it.

IMO, if you use the right lube in all the right places you won't have a pad squealing issue. Heck, I even fixed the noisy disc brakes on my new mountain bike using the Loctite Moly Paste.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:38 AM
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I've owned several cars for a lot of miles and the only time I have ever changed rotors was just recently on my DD 06 Subaru Legacy with 141k on it.

IMO, if you use the right lube in all the right places you won't have a pad squealing issue. Heck, I even fixed the noisy disc brakes on my new mountain bike using the Loctite Moly Paste.
This certainly has been my experience in the past and I take pride in the careful and methodical lubing of all the appropriate parts. It has served me well on all my other vehicles. On the JK I've used two high-temp, high-quality, specifically-for-brakes grease products and had the noise return in less than a hundred miles of mild street driving. I use the same stuff on my M3 which gets put through a lot more torture, especially on the brakes, and I've never had any problems.

So, it's probably a combination of multiple factors. Maybe my big heavy loaded JK with 35s are specifically stressing the already-undersized factory brakes even in normal driving and melting the for-regular-people grease (although it's still visibly present and the pads feel plenty free to move after it stars squeaking again).

I don't really care what the fix is at this point, I just want to stop waking up screaming in the middle of the night dreaming about brake noise
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:13 AM   #16
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^^ Keep us posted on how you make out.

A few other thoughts:

1) I now always remove the stainless 'clips' that the pads slide into on the caliper bracket. I remove all rust from the area where the clip seats onto the bracket and then apply grease to this surface to keep it from rusting. Background: My wife has a fairly new Mazda CX-5 and the rear brakes squeaked almost immediately after delivery. Even after greasing they squeaked on light breaking. I found a Mazda TSB about pulling the clips and cleaning & greasing the brackets, but it applied to slightly older models. ( https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...05655-2532.pdf ) Either way, it seemed like a good idea to me. So I did that and the noise went away, and now I've been doing that on all my brake jobs.

2) Rust between the brake rotor and hub flange can cause squeaking. If you pull the brackets to clean off any rust, then it's a great time to remove the rotor and clean the mating surfaces. I absolutely love the 3M Brake Hub Cleaning Disc kit, p/n 07547 for this job.
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Old 06-20-2019, 12:15 PM
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^^ Keep us posted on how you make out.

A few other thoughts:

1) I now always remove the stainless 'clips' that the pads slide into on the caliper bracket. I remove all rust from the area where the clip seats onto the bracket and then apply grease to this surface to keep it from rusting. Background: My wife has a fairly new Mazda CX-5 and the rear brakes squeaked almost immediately after delivery. Even after greasing they squeaked on light breaking. I found a Mazda TSB about pulling the clips and cleaning & greasing the brackets, but it applied to slightly older models. ( https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...05655-2532.pdf ) Either way, it seemed like a good idea to me. So I did that and the noise went away, and now I've been doing that on all my brake jobs.
I read something similar in all my desperate googling and did this on my most recent job. It didn't seem to address my issue, obviously, but I agree I can't imagine how it would hurt so I plan to do it in the future.

Re-reading through the reviews on Permatex stuff I've been using lately, overwhelmingly the reviews are positive. However, the 1-star reviews are full of "this stuff turns sticky" type reports. So I wonder if I've been defeating some of the other strategies I've been employing by switching to that stuff from standard copper anti-sieze earlyish on. Nobody seems to think the moly is a bad idea though

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2) Rust between the brake rotor and hub flange can cause squeaking. If you pull the brackets to clean off any rust, then it's a great time to remove the rotor and clean the mating surfaces. I absolutely love the 3M Brake Hub Cleaning Disc kit, p/n 07547 for this job.
Yeah, I cleaned them all on my last job, especially while looking for hub wobble. However, the studs make it hard to clean around them of course. That 3M kit looks awesome, so I'll do that too.

Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2019, 04:02 PM   #18
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So I wonder if I've been defeating some of the other strategies I've been employing by switching to that stuff from standard copper anti-sieze earlyish on.
Yeah, maybe. I used 3M 08945 Brake Lube & Anti-Seize for a while, which is a copper-colored paste. I always thought of it as a compromise, since the grease that would come with factory Subaru pads appeared to be a moly paste. The 3M stuff just didn't seem to last as long as the moly paste that came with the pads (it dries out quite a bit), but it did a good job at keeping the brakes squeak-free for a good amount of time.

I bought the Loctite Moly Paste many years ago when I needed it for a spline lubricant. So I switched over to using it on brake pads and it has worked great.
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Old 06-20-2019, 05:29 PM   #19
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Another thing you could do when you install your new rotors is check the runout like shown on this web page https://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
I used to do this but it does add a lot of time to the job. I looked up the spec in the repair manual. It is a ridiculous .0008. I would try to get under .002 but I wouldn't expect to get less than .001
I don't know if this causes squeal or not but why not go the extra step.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:16 PM
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Another thing you could do when you install your new rotors is check the runout like shown on this web page https://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
I used to do this but it does add a lot of time to the job. I looked up the spec in the repair manual. It is a ridiculous .0008. I would try to get under .002 but I wouldn't expect to get less than .001
I don't know if this causes squeal or not but why not go the extra step.
Yeah, the service manual does list runout as a potential cause of chatter and noise. I don't have a dial gauge, but I guess if new rotors and pads don't solve it I'll go there next and see if something else is out of true.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:22 AM   #21
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What have you decided to use for pads & rotors?

The Mopar pads are reasonably priced and come with new stainless clips. 68003701AB = Front
68003776AA = Rear

I'm a huge proponent of OEM brake parts. For the past 30 years, I have used OEM pads on all my cars and with great results. Only recently have I decided to try aftermarket brake parts.



Here is my experience (note that all of the below should be available for your JK):

Centric Premium 120-series rotors: Excellent fit & finish, quality appears excellent.

Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads:
Worked well (eventually), low dust, no noise.
Background: Used on front of 2018 Golf R to replace crazy dusty factory pads. Integral shims on the back of the pads were bowed and wouldn't allow proper installation, so I had to get them exchanged. Wear sensor on wrong side pad - Centric contacted and not interested in fixing. Friction material size did not match OE pads and hung over the OD of the rotor, so I had to machine off some pad material.

Akebono ProACT Ceramic pads:
Work well, low dust, no noise.
Background: Used on front & rear of 2006 Legacy with Centric rotors. Better made than the Centric pads - cleaner edges on the pad backing plates, accurate friction material shape/size, integral shims nicely installed.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:41 AM   #22
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I recently installed Raybestos EHT pads and Centric rotors. The brakes absolutely silent. I previously had Wagner Thermoquiet pads and I find that my Jeep stops better with the Raybestos pads.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:53 AM
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What have you decided to use for pads & rotors?

The Mopar pads are reasonably priced and come with new stainless clips. 68003701AB = Front
68003776AA = Rear

I'm a huge proponent of OEM brake parts. For the past 30 years, I have used OEM pads on all my cars and with great results. Only recently have I decided to try aftermarket brake parts.
I've got Teraflex big rotor kits for front and rear arriving today, so I'm going to try those. I was tempted to just revert everything to stock rotors and pads in an attempt to reset to baseline as much as possible. The problem is, with 35s, a ton of bolt-ons, and the 1500lb+ trailer we tow all the time, braking is already unsatisfactory. Upgrading to the Hawk pads helped a lot, but it's still more of a struggle than I'd like it to be. I found no reports of the Teraflex rotors being noisy or anything other than very high quality. I figure bigger rotors are going to reduce temperatures if nothing else, and help with any grease retention issues I might have.

I've also got centric pads showing up. Ceramic fronts and semi-metallic (because that's the only option) for the rear. I did find a lot of nice things people had to say about them, just not a lot of data about use on a JK. I like the integrated shims. They're not very expensive (which is slightly worrying, but also welcome as I throw $80/set Hawk pads with only a few thousand miles in the "that didn't go well" bin).

On all our other cars (all Audi and BMW vehicles), I've been using EBC RedStuff ceramic and Akebono ceramic pads for quite a while (both of which we love because dust, noise, feel). I realized last night that in recent history, all my "just slap new pads on old rotors without turning or replacing them" activity has been with ceramic pads. Leads me to wonder if the softer pad material beds into the old rotors easier than the metallic Hawk pads on the Jeep and that's why I haven't experienced this problem before (that and the german brake setups seem to be a lot better in every respect). If I get squeakage right away, I might go immediately for some other ceramic pads in the rear in case that helps before the rotors and pads get too cozy.

I've also got moly paste and that 3M hub cleaning kit.

If this doesn't work, I guess I'll check runout next. If that doesn't yield anything, then I guess take it somewhere to let them put whatever they want and will guarantee. Failing that, I dunno, embrace the Toyota lifestyle?
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:08 AM   #24
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If that doesn't yield anything, then I guess take it somewhere to let them put whatever they want and will guarantee.
No you won't! Brakes are one thing that I would never allow a shop or dealer to touch on my cars, and you seem the same way. We both know that you are way better off having the brake job done right (read as: done by you) with good quality pads, even if you have to live with a little squeak for some reason. But, I'm confident that you will end up with squeak-free brakes.

BTW, Akebono ceramic pads are available for both F&R of the JK, at least according to rockauto.


I'm sure you have this covered, but when installing the caliper brackets, make sure all the mating surfaces are clean and torque the hardware to factory spec to eliminate that as a possible cause of noise/vibration.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:56 AM
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No you won't! Brakes are one thing that I would never allow a shop or dealer to touch on my cars, and you seem the same way. We both know that you are way better off having the brake job done right (read as: done by you) with good quality pads, even if you have to live with a little squeak for some reason. But, I'm confident that you will end up with squeak-free brakes.
LOL, haha. TBH, I don't really want anyone else touching anything on any of my vehicles, and reserve trips to shops for things I just can't possibly do myself. Brakes are definitely in that category for me, and watching some of the "camera on my head as I work a day in the dealer shop" videos on youtube seriously concern me. That said, this experience has been super frustrating and a major assault on my self esteem :P

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I'm sure you have this covered, but when installing the caliper brackets, make sure all the mating surfaces are clean and torque the hardware to factory spec to eliminate that as a possible cause of noise/vibration.
Yup. I brass brush everything small, wire wheel the big stuff, and dump brake cleaner all over everything (the places it's supposed to go).

Thanks (everyone) for confirming all this stuff and helping me talk through it. It helped me realize some patterns I hadn't seen before and some things I was taking for granted. I'm feeling hopeful, but I dread the next few weeks of driving with the windows down, scrutinizing every noise I hear, fearing the return of the squeal monster
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:48 PM   #26
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I just went through a similar problem with my '12.

Brakes were done (by me) about a year ago. New pads/rotors all the way around. Napa's premium.

In the last 4-5 mos, the squeak (and it was a cyclical squeak) was driving me bonkers. Only when decelerating or coasting. Jam hard on the brakes, it goes a way for 2 min. Problem seemed to be with right/rear. Knowing how trashed my left-rear was when I replaced, I know bad things tend to happen in the back.

Thought rotor (it was new, not abused!) - or like you mentioned, axle shaft. We got potholes as big as busses out here.

So I ordered new ones. Axle seals were blown on the rear axles anyway, so I didn't mind replacing, but I didn't detect any bend.

Axles in. Cleaned everything, re-lubed the brake (but didn't take the caliper off the mount), put it all back together. No squeak!!

...for about 2 days

I bought new pads just in case. The old ones had slightly uneven wear, so I swapped em' out. Pulled the caliper off the mount this time... and discovered.. *2* frozen slide pins! Very surprising, because they were fine and re-lubed just a year ago.

3 auto parts stores later, new bracket and slide pins and pads... all back together.

Go to the drivers side... figure I might as well drop the other pair of new pads there. 1 more frozen slide pin. Put it back together, and ordered another new mount and pins.

So...2 weeks now, squeak-free. But.. for how long?
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Old 06-22-2019, 04:46 PM
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Okay, new rotors and pads are on. Now the waiting begins. Some observations:
  1. The new pads seem to fit in the brake hardware much tighter. I replaced brake hardware maybe six months ago and I don't remember things fitting this tightly after I did. The pads I removed today were definitely not fitting as tight as the new stuff. Maybe related.
  2. I spent a lot more time cleaning the hubs than I normally would since I was putting on new rotors. The 3M stud kit is pretty awesome. I used regular roloc discs on the spaces between the studs and got it a lot cleaner than I normally would. Hopefully that's goodness.
  3. The moly paste is interesting stuff. Definitely feels like it's a coating of good stuff. Normally I just glop up the pad ears and the backs of the pads. This time I used a long q-tip and painstakingly applied a thin even layer to each caliper slot, then installed the hardware clip, then coated the top of the clip. It was slow going, but I definitely got very consistent coverage. I also fully bottomed each piston, coated the contact surfaces of the caliper very evenly and let it clamp the lubricated surface to the pad once in place, instead of just jamming the caliper on the new pads from the side.
  4. I was horrified to find one of my slide pin bolts (front passenger) had backed out about a half inch and was just loose. The other bolt on the same caliper was also finger-loose. I've never not tightened something like that since I'm pretty OCD about the torque for each, so I'm not sure it's my fault. I last assembled that about two weeks ago when I applied the disc-quiet so either I totally didn't even tighten it or it backed out that quickly. I'll be keeping an eye on that.

So far, very smooth and quiet braking, but only time will tell...







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Old 06-25-2019, 04:21 PM   #28
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I believe both the stock slide pin bolts, as well as the new ones that came w/ the new slide pins I put in, have a dab of red loctite on 'em. Where I re-used old ones, I cleaned em up, and put fresh on.

Pretty sure I did that last year as well, and didn't have any issues getting the bolts off this year. It was the greased slide pins that were impossible! :-P
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:28 AM   #29
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I've had good luck with centric premium rotors. (Both on Jeep and wife's mini countryman).
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Old 06-28-2019, 06:24 PM   #30
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i've had good luck with Monroe pads on my jeeps

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