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Old 06-16-2019, 07:15 PM
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‘06 Rubicon oil pan replacement

My previously rusty oil pan is now BADLY rusted and looking like a piece might fall out any time after a very long, snowy winter, and I’m going to be replacing it very soon. Does anyone have any recommended brands? Amazon reviews aren’t very helpful, and I’m not spending hundreds on a Mopar pan. Second, does the skid plate have to come off in order to get the exhaust far enough out of the way to drop the oil pan?

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2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 4.0l, 6-speed.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, work in progress. Mercedes OM617 turbodiesel, intercooler if I can make room, 700R4, NVG241OR, Ford Dana 60 front & GM 14-bolt FF rear, SOA, SRS.
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:02 PM   #2
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‘06 Rubicon oil pan replacement

I was able to pull my exhaust out without dropping my skid plate. That’s with a tummy tuck. It was really tight but you can do it.

I wasn’t able to drop my exhaust far enough to get enough space in there so I just took it all the way out of the jeep. It wasn’t that hard to get in or out. Especially if you don’t have a belly up skid plate.


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Old 06-17-2019, 07:03 PM   #3
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I would get a Mopar. But, the reason I responded is to recommend that you replace the rear main seal at the same time.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:30 PM
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I ended up going with the Crown, and ordered a rear main seal with the pan gasket. Hopefully I can get it done quickly over the 4th of July weekend so I have a few days for hiking!
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2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 4.0l, 6-speed.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, work in progress. Mercedes OM617 turbodiesel, intercooler if I can make room, 700R4, NVG241OR, Ford Dana 60 front & GM 14-bolt FF rear, SOA, SRS.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:29 PM   #5
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I've tried 1 Dorman and 2 Crown pans. The Dorman didn't haven the same drain plug thread as the OEM which I needed for my Fumoto drain valve. Then I tried a Crown pan which had a crease on the mating surface that left a gap between the block, so I took it back to the store. The 2nd Crown one didn't fit exactly either but I was able to get all the bolts and forced it to fit by torquing it down, but that caused the outer seam at the corner by the timing cover to split, hopefully it doesn't interfere with the gasket seal and leak as I haven't ran the engine yet.

So I do believe you get what you pay for with these cheap aftermarket pans vs Mopar.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:34 PM   #6
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I’ll probably get flamed for this one. But I had a pretty severe oil leak coming from what appeared to be the rear main and the oil pain at the same time.

I was in a time crunch and opted to just do the pan gasket ( I know I was right there but I was also moving out of state the next morning). That was two weeks ago and I don’t have a single hint of oil seepage or leakage anywhere. It seems to me that my issue was the oil pan and the rear main didn’t need to be touched at all. Maybe I am lucky, not sure. But that was my experience.

Also I have 1500 miles on it since I did the pan gasket and not the rear main. I used a Felpro gasket.


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Old 06-18-2019, 06:50 PM
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I bought the rear main in case I see evidence that it’s leaking. I do have a leak but it’s trans oil, and I’m not in the mood to slide the tranny back and change the input shaft seal right now.
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2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 4.0l, 6-speed.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, work in progress. Mercedes OM617 turbodiesel, intercooler if I can make room, 700R4, NVG241OR, Ford Dana 60 front & GM 14-bolt FF rear, SOA, SRS.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:55 PM   #8
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Yea I bought the rear main seal too, and the special Sealant. When I cleaned everything up and pulled the pan I wasn’t convinced that the rear main was leaking.

So far it looks like my hunch is correct. Fingers crossed.


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