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Old 02-16-2014, 04:05 PM
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2000 TJ Tran Fluid Question (Auto)

Hey everyone. Was wheeling over the weekend and hit my tranny pan/transfer case skid on a rock(more of a light scrape; non issue. It protected what it needed to protect).

My concern is that I noticed the pan and skid were wet and greasy with tran fluid building in tiny droplets when I examined the hit. I know it wasn't the hit because I checked immediately after and it most certainly is a long term build up. So I checked the pan bolts which were extremely loose and appeared to be the source of the leak.

I tightened them all up; cautiously. So question number one is what is the torque value on the pan bolts?

Second since it looked like I may have lost some fluid in whatever varying degree I checked the fluid on the stick. I'm not sure if there is a particular way to check tranny fluid but logic told me to run her to normal operating temp. I checked while in park and the fluid marked all the way up to the x in of the MAX. While idling in neutral it marked at the line of MIN and OK. Is this ok or do I need to top it off? Also I hear ATF+4 is the way to go?

I'm planning on replacing the filter and flushing the system in a month or so. Current fluid is fine and I haven't noticed anything weird shifting wise other than my 4lo being a continual PITA(I think I just need to adjust the linkage, not too worried about that).

This all was yesterday and I figure I'll check the snow tomorrow to see if I leaked on the ground.

In summary.

1. Torque value of the pan bolts
2. How to properly check the level and are my levels good
3. Is this anything to worry about?

(It's worth noting I'm running on 130k and not sure when the PO did any tranny service)

Happy wheeling to you all this weekend.

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Old 02-16-2014, 04:19 PM   #2
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You heard correct on your 32RH automatic transmission requiring ATF+4. If the front label doesn't say ATF+4, it's the wrong stuff.

Your transmission must be in Neutral with the engine warmed up and running to check the ATF level, the pump doesn't run in Park. Torque your pan bolts to 13 to 15 ft-lbs.. A 3/8" torque wrench is best for that low of a torque value.

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Old 02-16-2014, 04:59 PM
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You heard correct on your 32RH automatic transmission requiring ATF+4. If the front label doesn't say ATF+4, it's the wrong stuff. Your transmission must be in Neutral with the engine warmed up and running to check the ATF level, the pump doesn't run in Park. Torque your pan bolts to 13 to 15 ft-lbs.. A 3/8" torque wrench is best for that low of a torque value.
Good to know. Would you just top off the fluid to the top of the OK point then Jerry?
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:03 PM   #4
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That's what I would do, fill it right to the full line. I actually overfill mine a tad so there's no danger of the ATF pickup tube inside the pan sucking air on a really/exceptionally steep climb.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:32 PM
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That's what I would do, fill it right to the full line. I actually overfill mine a tad so there's no danger of the ATF pickup tube inside the pan sucking air on a really/exceptionally steep climb.
Ok awesome. Overall would you say that the current level and leaking would be nothing to worry about if the leaking ceases?
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:44 PM   #6
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I dunno what the current level of leaking is so I can't say if it's nothing to worry about. I'd clean all leaked ATF off with brake cleaner & watch it over a few days to pinpoint the source of the leak, to verify if it's coming from the pan or not A pan leak would be easily fixed with a new good quality rigid gasket like from LubeLocker.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:13 PM
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I dunno what the current level of leaking is so I can't say if it's nothing to worry about. I'd clean all leaked ATF off with brake cleaner & watch it over a few days to pinpoint the source of the leak, to verify if it's coming from the pan or not A pan leak would be easily fixed with a new good quality rigid gasket like from LubeLocker.
Current level is at the highest MIN line when idling in neutral. Leak was definitely coming from one of the bolt holes
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:12 PM
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It it ends up being the gasket can I just drop the pan, replace the gasket and fluid?
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:15 PM   #9
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It it ends up being the gasket can I just drop the pan, replace the gasket and fluid?
Yep that would be the thing to do. It's not a difficult job, it's just messy due to the ATF+4 inside the pan. If you do this, be sure to replace the transmission filter inside the pan which is easily swapped.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:31 PM
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Yep that would be the thing to do. It's not a difficult job, it's just messy due to the ATF+4 inside the pan. If you do this, be sure to replace the transmission filter inside the pan which is easily swapped.
Awesome; I got some dripping still going on and checking our the gasket, it looks gnarly. Jerry just to verify the 32 is a 4 speed correct?
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:42 PM   #11
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The 32RH is a 3-speed. What fools most into thinking it's a 4-speed is its rpms will drop 150 or so when the lock-up torque converter kicks in once you reach cruising speed.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:43 PM
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The 32RH is a 3-speed. What fools most into thinking it's a 4-speed is its rpms will drop 150 or so when the lock-up torque converter kicks in once you reach cruising speed.
Last question Jerry. If I'm just doing the gasket of now what's the fill method after bolting her back up?
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:11 AM   #13
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When you are inside the pan, as mentioned above, do the filter and adjust the bands. Fill through the dipstick tube. You can get a gasket or use RTV for the pan.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:35 AM
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When you are inside the pan, as mentioned above, do the filter and adjust the bands. Fill through the dipstick tube. You can get a gasket or use RTV for the pan.
adjust the bands?
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:38 AM   #15
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If your transmission is shifting properly, I wouldn't adjust the bands. I was inside my 32RH several times and never touched them.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:46 PM
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If your transmission is shifting properly, I wouldn't adjust the bands. I was inside my 32RH several times and never touched them.
Ok good because that pan is back up and hopefully not coming back down for a longgggggg time
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:50 PM
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This is my last concern. I didn't notice this until I was putting the pan back up and sliced my finger on it. There's a sharp edge next to the light that looked wayyyyy too clean to be a crack. Is this normal? I would assume if it was a crack that would mean a new casing/tranny ='(. I had to torque Dow those bolts a little tighter; leak was coming from there after sitting.

I'm praying this is normal. Can anyone with a 32RH confirm or deny this?
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:51 PM
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It's also worth noting that it's complete flush; not gap. Just a sharp out crop
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:32 AM
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Bump
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:36 PM
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Bumping for the crack/whatever it is
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:57 PM   #21
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Any word on this Ashton? How is your transmissio?
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:43 AM
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Any word on this Ashton? How is your transmissio?

Everything is running a-OK! The supposed crack ended up being where the factory filed down the edge to serialize the tranny (albeit a pretty pretty bad file job).

I ended up also having a leak coming from my rear output shaft seal; replaced that guy and the input shaft seal while I was down there. Everything is dry as a bone now.

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