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Old 07-28-2019, 11:17 AM
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Question 2005-2006 manual shifter boot replacement

Has anyone had luck finding a replacement for the leather shift boot for a manual? The boot on my LJ is cracked and the metal inside of it is broken and pieces of it have fallen off. I've found plenty of replacement leather boots, but none that come with the metal innards.

This metal ring is specific to the 2005-2006 MY. The metal is wrapped (glued?) inside the leather and that's what the plastic ring clamps over to secure it. The older shift boots were installed differently and didn't require the metal.

Any thoughts? I've tried the dealer, I've tried aftermarket, I've tried junk yards. Very close to just welding something together...

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Old 07-28-2019, 12:01 PM   #2
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This one is pleather, but I saw positive comments on other threads in this forum.
Less than $15.00.
Supposed to be easy install.
On my to-do list for my 05, but other things must come first.

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Old 08-01-2019, 09:34 PM
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That doesn’t include the metal. The metal is the only part I need.
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Old 08-04-2019, 02:28 PM   #4
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That doesn’t include the metal. The metal is the only part I need.
I hear the metal piece is not always easy to find.
I have to replace the boot on my 05 too. If you think you need to fabricate a new one... I can trace the metal part onto a piece of paper for you and scan it. You could download it, print at home, cut it out and trace onto a new piece of metal to make one.
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:21 AM
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That'd be amazing, thank you! I wonder if I can't 3D print this thing with the right dimensions.
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Old 08-05-2019, 02:09 PM   #6
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That'd be amazing, thank you! I wonder if I can't 3D print this thing with the right dimensions.
If you make it out of sheet aluminum with similar thickness to the steel, I bet you could trace it out and make it using: a drill, jigsaw or band saw, and maybe a grinding wheel. Doesn't have to be too precise. It just needs to fit inside the plastic trim piece and clear the tabs that snap into the console.

Give me until the end of this week and I can upload then.
Early part of this week is crazy busy and booked solid for me.
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Old 08-19-2019, 10:27 AM
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No worries, I’m in no rush!
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Old 08-19-2019, 01:30 PM   #8
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No worries, Im in no rush!
I am soooo sorry!

I am in the midst of making new schedules for 3 public transit operators going into effect Labor Day weekend. I completely forgot about this.

Thursday is a good night for me to trace it out. I can scan and post for you Friday. I will make this happen for sure this week.
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Old 08-19-2019, 10:48 PM
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All good, really! I appreciate you doing this
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:13 AM   #10
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1,000 Apologies for such a delay... daily life kept getting in the way of scanning this for you.

Here are photos and scans (1:1 scale) of the metal plate that the pleather shift boot attaches to for late model TJ 6 Speed. Mine is an 05.

The shift boot was glued to the front tab, rear tab and along both long edges. The pleather wraps around to from one side to the other and is glued on both sides of the metal plate where it wraps around.

I did not flatten out mine for 100% accurate tracing, because I did not want to risk breaking the sheet metal. But it does not need to be perfect replica anyway, as far as I can tell. It just needs to allow the 4 tabs on the plastic retainer trim piece to clear the metal, so they can snap in to the base. This is just to give the boot something to get glued on to and stay in place. With a little hand fabricating, you could make this out of sheet aluminum fairly easily and make something that works.

Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:41 AM
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This is awesome, thank you! Only question I have is what are the dimensions?



Quote:
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1,000 Apologies for such a delay... daily life kept getting in the way of scanning this for you.

Here are photos and scans (1:1 scale) of the metal plate that the pleather shift boot attaches to for late model TJ 6 Speed. Mine is an 05.

The shift boot was glued to the front tab, rear tab and along both long edges. The pleather wraps around to from one side to the other and is glued on both sides of the metal plate where it wraps around.

I did not flatten out mine for 100% accurate tracing, because I did not want to risk breaking the sheet metal. But it does not need to be perfect replica anyway, as far as I can tell. It just needs to allow the 4 tabs on the plastic retainer trim piece to clear the metal, so they can snap in to the base. This is just to give the boot something to get glued on to and stay in place. With a little hand fabricating, you could make this out of sheet aluminum fairly easily and make something that works.

Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.
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Old 09-14-2019, 03:24 PM   #12
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This is awesome, thank you! Only question I have is what are the dimensions?
Scanned the trace and the part (top two photos) at full scale.
Set the printout size to 100% (do not use the "Fit to Page" or "Scale to Fit" options) on your printer and it should come out actual size.

It will be several weeks before I have any chance to do any dimension measurements to confirm for you.

All this thing has to do is have the edges of the shift boot wrap around and be glued. I honestly don't think it has to have the bends you see, in order to strictly make something functional. I think, if I were trying to replicate... You could probably get by just keeping the cut out flat. As long as it lays flat between the console and and the plastic trim ring that snaps in, I don't see why that wouldn't do the trick. It needs to clear the snap tabs on the plastic trim ring, so the tabs lock into the base (with the metal part sandwiched in between and the boot secured on the four sides of the metal piece).

Instead of the edges that got folded downward, maybe extend those sections inward and leave flat for a little bit of structural integrity and some surface for the long sides of the shift boot to be glued onto. I think there is plenty of leeway in the area surrounding the shifter. If the long sides extended inward towards the center, there is more than enough room to allow that to happen without interfering with anything that needs to move.

Maybe cut a little oversize on all dimensions, then trim and try. Keep trimming/grinding a little at a time until retainer ring tabs clear and the piece fits flat between the plastic trim ring and the base.

I hope that makes some sense...

Let me know if I missed anything in my attempt to explain my conceptual solution here.

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