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Old 02-13-2020, 10:53 AM
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97 TJ eats oil

I am looking for some advice please. I have a 97 TJ with 252,000 miles. It has the 4.0 straight six. I had a shop do a valve job and ever since they did that I eat 1 quart of oil every 2 tanks of gas. This did not happen prior to the valve job. They insist that it eats the oil because it has so many miles. I tried explaining that it didn't do that prior to the valve job. They have been no help and I will not return to them. I also get some pinging at higher speeds. This also didn't occur prior to the valve job. I am told by non experts that the valves were not adjusted properly. The jeep runs great except the pinging and does not leak or smoke. Any advice would sure be appreciated.

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Old 02-13-2020, 11:59 AM   #2
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Tip: It's either leaking oil or burning oil. Period.

If you aren't finding oil puddles: Get it up to operating temp, drive at freeway speed for a few minutes, then quickly take your foot completely off of the accelerator pedal and have your passenger watch for grey smoke coming from the rear of the vehicle as you slow to 20-25 mph without braking. Then, report back.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:03 PM   #3
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As the previous post said, oil doesn't evaporate, the engine either leaked or burned the oil. If it didn't use oil before and it does now, the repair shop didn't do a very good job on valve guides and seals.
If it were me, I'd pull the head and bring it to a reliable machine shop and have them tear it down and go from there.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:07 PM
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Thank you for the advice. I will try what you folks suggested as soon as I have the opportunity.
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Old 02-13-2020, 09:06 PM   #5
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Valve keepers


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Old 02-13-2020, 09:15 PM
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Digger84 I am not sure what needs to be done with the valve keepers.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:58 PM   #7
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Could well be your high mileage piston rings were marginal and the increased cylinder pressure caused by valve job is forcing blow by. also pinging would indicate possible timing. set to far advance also causing increased cylinder pressure. 3rd issue valve related valve stem oil seal's installed wrong or wrong seal's used, likely with that mileage worn valve guides.
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:21 AM   #8
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Before doing anything else, swap in 6 quarts of a high mileage 10W-30 conventional engine oil like Mobil Super. They contain extra conditioners for the seals which can often cure a bad leak. My 2004 BMW was making a mess on my garage floor that was cured a year ago by switching to Mobil Super. Especially if you're using a synthetic engine oil.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:45 AM   #9
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Valve Keepers?

The valve rides in a valve guide that is pressed into the cylinder head, at the top of the guide is a valve seal which is what keeps oil from running down the valve stem and entering the cylinder and burning.
Around the valve guide is a valve spring, on the top of the valve spring is the valve spring retainer and 2 valve spring retainer clips that hold the valve spring retainer to the valve stem.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:52 AM
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Thank you all for your advice. I have only been running mobil 1 synthetic. I will try a conventional oil. Hopefully I can get this taken care of.
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Old 02-14-2020, 10:27 AM   #11
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Valve keepers have nothing to do with oil consumption. Valve guide seals, yes. But...an engine with that many miles and doing a top end rebuild from my experiences caused oil consumption issues. The shop undoubtedly milled or resurfaced the head and took off who knows how much. By dong so it upped he compression which is probably your pinging problem. The other possibility is because you are burning so much oil its diluting the fuel/air mix enough to cause the pinging. Think Dodge 360 Magnum intake plenum gasket failure. Sucking up oil into the intake and causes mass pinging which is one of the tell tale signs of a failure.
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Old 02-14-2020, 03:29 PM   #12
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What 8thtimer said and another possibility is that the valve job has increased blow-by into the crake case, causing oil to be forced into the crake case "vent" system and burned. This will also cause denotation for the same reason above.
One way to check is to remove the oil fill cap and see how much pressure is in the crank case.
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Old 02-14-2020, 06:38 PM   #13
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If I were you, I'd consider all the above advice and do what works for you and your budget.
Along with the high mileage oil, I'd try a tankful of premium gasoline to see if that cures your pinging.


crallscars suggests taking the head to a reliable machine shop and go from there. If you do, consider this....
I have a 4.2 that I'm building for when my current engine finally gives up.
These are the NAPA seals that I'll use.

Part # :SEP ST2004BC
Product Line :
Sealed Power Engine Parts
Important Info :
Installation Requires Valve Guide machining

Conventional valve stem seals are sometimes called "umbrellas". The seals I plan on using have a spring around the skirt that provides a tighter seal than regular "umbrella" style seals plus they have a Teflon type collar to make a tighter seal and prevent wear at that point. Sure, it'll cost more to have the head machined and the seals cost more, but in the overall scheme of things, it's cheap insurance to prevent the condition that you're experiencing.

Let us know how it goes for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-14-2020, 06:40 PM   #14
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BTW, check your CCV orifice. It could be something that simple.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:43 AM   #15
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Be mindful that as you continue to drive it the burning oil will likely increase the pinging problem as heavy carbon deposits build up on the pistons thus increasing the compression further. With a quart every couple tankfuls you likely will begin to get fouled spark plugs which will lead to a engine miss as well. What led you to do a valve job anyhow with that mileage? Cracked head or head gasket fail perhaps?
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:58 AM
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The reason I had to do a valve job was because of a stupid mistake on my part. I have a diesel truck that I tow my jeep with. I left a camp site and drove 5 miles down a dirt road and had accidentally put the transfer case in 4x4 and not neutral. I overheated the engine and was told I burned 2 valves. Because my truck pulls so good I didn't feel the resistance. Dumb mistake that I am paying the price for. I am retired so my budget is low.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:01 AM
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I have replaced the ccv valve. No luck. Still loves oil.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyngfsh View Post
The reason I had to do a valve job was because of a stupid mistake on my part. I have a diesel truck that I tow my jeep with. I left a camp site and drove 5 miles down a dirt road and had accidentally put the transfer case in 4x4 and not neutral. I overheated the engine and was told I burned 2 valves. Because my truck pulls so good I didn't feel the resistance. Dumb mistake that I am paying the price for. I am retired so my budget is low.
Ouch..sounds like something Id let slip by. Seems weird it would overheat when Its not even running. Engine was turning,oil pumps pumping, water pumps pumping but no combustion taking place? Was it missing or running on 4 when you fired it up after the tow? Is the running gear all OK after that one? I know the drill on being retired and on a budget, I/we are in the same boat.
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Old 02-15-2020, 11:47 AM
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Yes apparently I over reved it.. When I got to the highway I felt something weird and got out to check. The jeep was very hot. I was told I burned the 4 and 6 valve. Other than that all was well. Because of the miles my local jeep shop says run it until it blows. Then do an engine swap. About $3000.00 I was just hoping it was a valve adjustment done wrong or something.
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Old 02-15-2020, 03:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyngfsh View Post
Yes apparently I over reved it.. When I got to the highway I felt something weird and got out to check. The jeep was very hot. I was told I burned the 4 and 6 valve. Other than that all was well. Because of the miles my local jeep shop says run it until it blows. Then do an engine swap. About $3000.00 I was just hoping it was a valve adjustment done wrong or something.
In the mean time switch to Mobil Super conventional 10W-30 or the Valvoline equivalent high mileage conventional oil.
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Old 02-15-2020, 07:25 PM
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Thank you Jerry I will do as you recommend with the oil.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:30 PM   #22
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If the valve job was done correctly I'd do a wet and dry compression test. With that amount of miles on the engine doing just the top of the engine over can often be a mistake, and cause oil use, or increase it. Remember the bottom end of the engine still has 252,000 miles on the rings, etc.

I would also check the PCV valve, and if it wasn't replaced put an OE PCV valve in. Bad PCV valves can cause oil consumption.

You could try a high mileage 5W30 or 10W30 oil, or even bumping a grade to a 5W40, it might help.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:39 PM   #23
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TJs don't have a PCV valve.
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Old Yesterday, 07:33 PM   #24
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Issue is this

On a high mileage engine the worse thing to do is a valve job. Now that your valves are sealing better you will have more blow by on the rings. It is just normal wear on the rings and cylinder walls. Really nothing you can do other than rebuild your engine.

The rest of your engine has 200,000 plus miles on it except for the valve train now. I know this isn’t what you want to hear but that is just the cold hard truth.
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