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Old 03-20-2015, 06:42 PM
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A/c nightmare!

I have a 2006 rhd Jeep Wrangler that I use on the mail route daily and have been having problem after problem with the a/c since I got it. I replaced the blower motor, wiring harness and control switches and then had nice cold (45*) a/c. Well that wasn't good enough and stupid me, I thought I needed heat too so I had a dodge/ jeep mechanic replace the heater core at his home for a fraction of what the dealer he worked at would have charged. In replacing the heater core, he had to cut the evap where it attaches to the lines on the firewall and he recommended putting in a new evap anyway. Well after two bad Napa evaps right out of the box, I broke down and got a mopar unit and he put it in, this is all having the dash in and out three times and now I would be more money ahead if I had just paid the dealer to do it in the first place at $800 plus parts because he was charging me $300 per. Fast forward to the completed job, with new evap, condenser, lines that connect to the evap, and dryer and it will finally take a vacuum. Now the problem is, it doesn't cool like it should, before I could run it on the mail route in 95* heat and it would stay 45* all day. Now it refuses to get below 51 on the highway and mid 60's on the route. Back to the third a/c shop it's been to and today it started at 60* and crept up to about 75* before I finally just turned it off and rolled the passenger side window down. I am in this thing about $2k and still don't have a/c. I also blocked off the heater core yesterday thinking it might be the blend door but it had no change. Please, I hate to keep throwing money at this thing but I'm in so deep now that I need to get it fixed and it's hot down here in Tampa.

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Old 03-20-2015, 07:55 PM   #2
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Don't know about ac issue but rather then block heater core get a vacuum controlled valve off a ford explorer it has 4 ports so you cut both heater hoses and splice it in
One way it runs thru heater core other way it is bypassed

If you want a manual vacuum to control it get one obvious the below dash kick pannel on either a 79-83 280zx or a 84-86 300zx

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Old 03-20-2015, 08:18 PM   #3
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Was the proper amount or Referigrant oil added when parts were replaced? Too much oil can cause poor cooling,Was Liquid Line/Orfice Tube(runs from Evaporator to Condenser) replaced? Was system vacuumed for at least 30 minutes? Do you know what High & Low side pressures are running @ idle speed
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:18 PM
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Thanks, I will probably just hook the heater core back up since it didn't change anything. Forgot to mention, the a/c shop said there scanner takes readings of the air going into the cab and coming out of the vents. Going in read 39 and 51 coming out of vents. What am I missing here?
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:32 PM   #5
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Missing any cooling of the air

Under charge or over charge or water vapor in system

1) good evac and verify holds a vacuum over night
2) charge with proper number oz of r134a
3) check low and high side pressures
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:00 PM
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It's been vacuumed and charged 3-4 times but would be hot in two days. Finally found the low side line coming out of the compressors was leaking. Had that replaced at a/c shop and they vacuumed it again and charged it back up. I assume they are charging it correctly because they are tired of seeing me. One other thing, after the evap instal back in December, the system was open, no shrader valve in the low side for a week or so. Could that cause the new dryer to be ruined even though it's been vacuumed several times since? Idk if they can check to see the amount of oil in the lines but would that even matter if the temp coming into the firewall is 39 and the temp coming out of the vents is 51, well was 51 yesterday.
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:25 PM   #7
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Into or back out of firewall

What are the two hose temps as the enter and leave firewall
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:36 PM
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Idk, I know he said intering was 39 and vent was 51.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:14 AM   #9
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It sounds like the evap is picking up a lot of heat somewhere or the blower is not putting air across the evap. Sounds like an airflow issue to me. 39 Deg suction line time is about right, 37 - 45 deg line temp is where you want to be. If the air temp coming from the vents is 51 then 2 things could be wrong. but you already took the heater core out of the equation. So that leads me to believe that that not all the air is getting across the evap. I bet your compressor cycles on and off frequently to prevent the evap from freezing up.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:32 AM   #10
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You may have taken the heater core out of the circuit but are you sure that the blend air door is operating?
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98whitelightnin View Post
..... In replacing the heater core, he had to cut the evap where it attaches to the lines on the firewall and he recommended putting in a new evap anyway....
Don't understand why this had to be cut - there are joins near the firewall which disconnect.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:53 AM   #12
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I think he calls normal fitting disconnecting a cut

Like when you flip a switch you cut power
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Old 03-21-2015, 03:54 PM
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He said the evap had been leaking and the lines were corroded so he cut them from the evap. I have pulled the motor off the blend door and turned it by hand, it feels like it had full motion and stops like it should. With the a/c on and the fan blowing, I can turn the blend door by hand to the hot setting and there is a noticeable difference in air output from the vents and when I put the motor back on it has full range so I don't think it's the problem. Could there be to much oil in the system causing the compressor to not kick on like it should? If it would blow 51 all day, I could live with it but 75 isn't cutting it especially after I have replaced nearly every part of the system.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:06 PM   #14
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I know in my 2000 it has not only the low pressure switch but the manual says it has a high pressure switch as well. If you know for a fact that the condenser is in front of the radiator and not behind it and it has good air flow through then you may have a bad High Pressure switch. That would allow the compressor to run for a bit giving you the 51 deg air temp, but the longer it runs your high pressure side of the system may be getting high enough to make the high pressure switch shut down the compressor or it tripping it off prematurely. Food for thought. But make sure the condenser is in front of the radiator.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:28 PM
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Condenser is in front of the radiator. I am going to drop it back off at the shop tomorrow and I will ask them about the high pressure switch. Or can I replace the switch here without opening the system?
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:58 AM   #16
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Definitely get your dryer replaced. You do not want it left open to the outside air for any amount of time if possible. Anytime the system is opened for service the dryer should be replaced.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:44 PM
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Thanks, I will replace it. Talked to gUs at shop earlier and they said it was running cold all day, I don't believe it at all. They said it was full and they can't find anything to replace. I told them to drive it around tomorrow because something is not right
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:36 PM
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Picked it up this evening and after two days, they couldn't find a single thing wrong with it. They said it was blowing cold both days and when asked how cold they said 65-70, I asked what kind of vehicle they drove where 70 was cold and got no answer. They were no help at all so I guess it's on to the next shop Thursday.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:27 PM   #19
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any luck?

having similar issues

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