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Old 11-14-2019, 01:41 AM
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Advice on transmission

Hello all

I bought my 1997 TJ last August and it had 195.000km in it's past.

My 2nd gear is griding and sometimes hard to engage (all other gears seem fine). Since I have absolutelly zero information about the car's past as it was sold by a 2nd owner who had it for 4 months only, I was wondering if it would be a good idea purchasing a master repair kit for the AX15 as preventive maintenance.

My Jeep is my daily driver to work and drop my kid at the nursery so I need it to be reliable.

Was thinking something like this: https://www.quadratec.com/products/52170_107.htm

Any thoughts? Much appreciated!

Happy jeepin

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Old 11-14-2019, 02:25 AM   #2
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Try something less invasive/less expensive first, I'd replace the unknown transmission lube (which may be something entirely inappropriate) with a known excellent lube like Redline MT-90 which is ideal for your AX-15. Doing that first certainly couldn't hurt.
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Old 11-14-2019, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Try something less invasive/less expensive first, I'd replace the unknown transmission lube (which may be something entirely inappropriate) with a known excellent lube like Redline MT-90 which is ideal for your AX-15. Doing that first certainly couldn't hurt.
Thanks Jerry

I actually had the transmission oil replaced and something was done to the shifter lever to try and fix this issue but I had so many issues with that shop that the guy couldn't even explain exactly what's been done, but it got worse and I got my money back...
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Old 11-14-2019, 06:11 AM   #4
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If it isn't grinding going into reverse, odds are the clutch is fully releasing and can be ruled out. @Jerry Bransford recommended one of the best lubes for that unit possible. Assuming you have the correct lube in the transmission and it is full, the second gear synchros could be bad. Have you tried double clutching going into second gear? It might be worth a try.
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Old 11-14-2019, 07:01 AM   #5
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The synchro to 2nd suffered most with poor aggressive shifting

Good lube plus less aggressive slower shifting can help
With time I have had a problematic 2ndsyncro improve with gentle slower shifting never completely resolved but did improve on a junkyard tranny swap





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Old 11-14-2019, 10:12 AM
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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that the reverse gear does grind sometimes, but if I go into 2nd and then reverse there's no issue.

Double clutching seems to work fine, but I'd like a solution for this... Might have to take it to a tech to have it inspected properly...

If the synchros turn out to be the problem, what am I looking at in terms of cost and which manufacture should i look for?

Best Regards!
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:50 AM   #7
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Biggest cost is labor as tranny has to be removed


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Old 11-15-2019, 11:09 AM   #8
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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that the reverse gear does grind sometimes, but if I go into 2nd and then reverse there's no issue.
There's nothing wrong with your transmission so far as grinding when shifting into Reverse is concerned. Reverse is not synchronized on your AX-15 (or the NV3550 or AX-5), that's why it grinds when shifting into it if you don't use the proper technique as you have learned. Reverse is synchronized in the NSG370 but it's not as good of a transmission as your AX-15 is.
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Old 11-16-2019, 01:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Try something less invasive/less expensive first, I'd replace the unknown transmission lube (which may be something entirely inappropriate) with a known excellent lube like Redline MT-90 which is ideal for your AX-15. Doing that first certainly couldn't hurt.
I had the same problem a couple years ago; not wanting to shift into second. I changed the fluid to the MTL as recommended by Jerry and have not had a problem since.
Remember that fluids that work fine in other vehicles may not work in out TJs.
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:01 PM   #10
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I had the same problem a couple years ago; not wanting to shift into second. I changed the fluid to the (Redline) MTL
Redline MTL is the perfect lube for your NV3550, his AX-15 however needs Redline MT-90. Just so there's no confusion for the OP. MTL and MT-90 are similar yet very slightly different viscosity-wise.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:18 AM
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Thanks a lot for the advice! Now I have to try and find this fluid here in the desert

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Old 11-19-2019, 05:53 AM
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By the way, I found out that the shop I took the car used 75w140 transmission oil in the last service I had. Any thoughts? I drove 2000km so far since the oil change...

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Old 11-19-2019, 07:09 AM   #13
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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that the reverse gear does grind sometimes, but if I go into 2nd and then reverse there's no issue.

Double clutching seems to work fine, but I'd like a solution for this... Might have to take it to a tech to have it inspected properly...

If the synchros turn out to be the problem, what am I looking at in terms of cost and which manufacture should i look for?

Best Regards!
@Digger84 mentioned a good point, you might have to slow down your shifts. Many years ago I had a 1970 Mustang with a stick. We made a road trip to Florida in my friends F-350 with a stick 4 speed with a granny gear. I learned quickly that truck could not be shifted like my Mustang. It was best to start in second gear, but that's another story. Shifting from 1-2, or 2-3 required a brief pause in neutral, trying to shift fast always resulted in grinding. There was nothing wrong with the clutch or the transmission. Try changing your shifting habits with a brief pause in neutral before going to the next gear.

It that fails, it still sounds to me like it is either the clutch is not fully releasing or the synchros might be the issue. I always shift into first before going into reverse. I learned that trick in the 70's when I started driving stick and I still do it. If double clutching resolves the grind going into second gear then that "usually" means the synchros are the problem. Operative word is "usually," not always. Getting a proper diagnosis it important, because the repair is costly, and beyond the typical shade tree mechanic's skill set. The problem is finding someone who is able to do a proper diagnosis, sometimes you end up throwing parts at it unfortunately.

If it were mine before I spent a lot of money I would get all of that 75W140 gear oil out of there and use the Red Line product mentioned. And make sure I pause briefly between shifts. IMO when it gets very cold shifting is going to be difficult due to the viscosity of the gear oil, so changing it is a good idea regardless. Drain and fill, drive, and do another drain and fill. I would also bleed the clutch if possible, if not I might be inclined to replace it with an OE part if the new shifting method fails me. Brake fluid does take on moisture and can cause a hydraulic clutch not to fully release. HTH Good luck!
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:06 AM
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Thanks again for all the inputs, I'm learning a lot already.

I need to add that I live in the desert, in July temperature reaches 47 degrees C easily, and stays like that for a good 2 to 3 months... Could that be the reason for the shop going with 75w140 fluid? I guess...

Shifting slower does help, double clutch as well. But I noticed something also. On the image, does it look like the shifter is not at a normal position while in neutral? I can even hear the rubber cover getting smashed when I go into 2nd or reverse... Just wondering...

Best Regards.

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Old 11-20-2019, 08:52 AM   #15
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If your Jeep has been lifted the shifter can sometimes hit the hole the on the tunnel that it goes thru. If they bent the shifter this could happen also. This could mean you are not actually getting it all the way in gear so it grinds. It could even pop out of gear.
Some people have pulled the console and boots, then slightly trimmed the metal away. As hot as it is where you are, make sure you keep both rubber boots and they are in good condition. Otherwise, your next post will be "Why are my feet so hot". The tunnel boot stops engine heat and fumes from directly entering the cabin.
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
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If your Jeep has been lifted the shifter can sometimes hit the hole the on the tunnel that it goes thru. If they bent the shifter this could happen also. This could mean you are not actually getting it all the way in gear so it grinds. It could even pop out of gear.
Some people have pulled the console and boots, then slightly trimmed the metal away. As hot as it is where you are, make sure you keep both rubber boots and they are in good condition. Otherwise, your next post will be "Why are my feet so hot". The tunnel boot stops engine heat and fumes from directly entering the cabin.
I think that's it, cause when I go over a speed hump in 2nd it does pop out of gear with the movement... I do have a 3in lift, what's usually the best way to fix this issue?

Thanks a lot for the insight

Regards.

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Old 11-20-2019, 01:04 PM   #17
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You need to pull the console out, then you need to remove the boot screwed to the tunnel. To remove the console, use a small screwdriver or putty knife to pry loose the exposed shifter boot and just slide it up the shifter a little bit. There is a bolt or screw in there that needs to be removed holding it to the tunnel. Next, remove the bolt that is in one of the cup holders. Finally, remove the one or two bolts in the bottom of the console container. Slide the console upwards to clear the seats and pull it out of the Jeep. With the console out of the way, you should now see the inner shift boot held on by maybe three screws. Remove it. Take it for a short trip around the neighborhood to see if it is contacting the shifter - or how close it is. Some people needed to trim the metal slightly, some others also needed to trim the inner boot's metal ring. Keep in mind the inner shifter seals the outside heat and fumes out so you really don't want to open a hole in it.

It could also be that the shifter shaft is not the correct one and is causing the issue. You could probably find a correct one if this is the case from someone parting out or give a call to "Davey's Jeep Parts" to see if they have one.

Be careful when putting the console back in as it is easy to tear the sides of your seat vinyl with its sharp points and edges.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:08 PM   #18
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Also, I have heard a few people have actually heated the shaft then bent it to clear the opening. Obviously, you would probably want to remove it, which requires getting under the Jeep, and working the capture mechanism to release it (Google this process if you need to do it).
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Old 11-20-2019, 05:37 PM   #19
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I think that's it, cause when I go over a speed hump in 2nd it does pop out of gear with the movement... I do have a 3in lift,
Your shifter looks pretty low coming out of the boot. Is that 3" lift a body lift by any chance? And is your transfer case skidplate lowered via spacers placed between it and the frame? Either of those will restrict the throw of the shifter lever by increasing the distance between the top of the transmission where the shift lever exits and the opening in the console's shifter boot. A restriction of the shift lever will cause the gears to not be fully engaged which can cause it to pop out of gear.
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Old 11-27-2019, 04:44 AM
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So I just got the CEL.

Codes are P0743 Torque Converter Circuit Electrical

P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

P1899 Check report for description.

First time I get the CEL since I bought the car in August.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:54 AM   #21
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I think i would unplug the ground for 20 minutes and also unplug and replug the PCM connectors to see if anything changes first.

You may find these an interesting read. You might possibly have a swapped PCM ('97 PCMs were kind of odd it seems) but there may be a solution for the trans code. The second mentions a fuse that could be blown.

http://"https://www.wranglerforum.co...-1603241.html"
or
http://"https://www.wranglerforum.co...al-73667.html"
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Old 11-28-2019, 12:28 AM
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I just found out that the car originally had an automatic transmission, now I need to figure out what's in there... Seems like my new jeep has been through some stuff lol

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