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Old 01-07-2017, 02:58 PM
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Question Anyone have experience with the G2 Core 44 axles for their TJ

If so - what options did you choose ? And how is it working out for you ?

TIA !

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Old 01-08-2017, 06:03 PM   #2
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I'm curious as well. I am going to replace my Dana 30 front with one of these and have several questions. Can I reuse my Dana 30 knuckles, brakes, and bearings? Will I have to make front driveshaft mods to the stock shaft? Glad you posted this!

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Old 01-08-2017, 09:09 PM
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I'm curious as well. I am going to replace my Dana 30 front with one of these and have several questions. Can I reuse my Dana 30 knuckles, brakes, and bearings? Will I have to make front driveshaft mods to the stock shaft? Glad you posted this!
If you have not seen this link - you might find informative ( albeit it is for the JK ) ... I am under the impression that the brakes port over ... )

https://youtu.be/ss2SGvB3XgA

There does not seem to be many reviews of these axles - a few experiences etc, with a few bad experiences ( manufacturing defect, diff cover & oil fill access ... ).

If going this route - I'd even consider the SYE kit too ... I hope we hear from some with personal experience.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:55 AM   #4
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I just got off the phone with 4wheel parts. I was told that my Dana 30 knuckles and brakes will transfer, and no driveshaft modifications will be necessary!
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:23 PM   #5
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Dana 30 knuckles and brakes will transfer, and no driveshaft modifications will be necessary!
whats the point then? is it worth the price tag so you can run 5.38 gears?

why not just add alloy shafts, locker, and gears of your desire to the d30?
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:36 PM   #6
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Take a look at the Currie RJ 44. At least it is built by a reputable company. I wanted a HP front axle to reduce the number of times I bashed my front driveshaft on rocks. The larger JK ring gear was also a selling point as I've already destroyed a LP 30 ring gear.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/TJ-44HPF2
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:41 AM
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I just got off the phone with 4wheel parts. I was told that my Dana 30 knuckles and brakes will transfer, and no driveshaft modifications will be necessary!
Did you order a Core 44 axle ? If so - I'd love to know your impressions when you get it, from fit and finish to install - to performance.

Thanks !
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:09 AM   #8
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I am going to order one soon. The shop that I am going to have install everything said that they have done several and they haven't had any come back and they hear great things from the people that have had them done. I am not changing housings for that deep of a gear ratio, but the Core does come with the larger JK style gears. I'll never go larger than 35's and I'm on 33's right now. I'll report back when I get it all!
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:35 PM
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I am going to order one soon. The shop that I am going to have install everything said that they have done several and they haven't had any come back and they hear great things from the people that have had them done. I am not changing housings for that deep of a gear ratio, but the Core does come with the larger JK style gears. I'll never go larger than 35's and I'm on 33's right now. I'll report back when I get it all!
Good feedback that your shop has used them and felt good about the install. I know the Core 44 had some delivery and early manufacturing issues, but appears they are sorted out now. Supposed to be fab'd in the US. Are you going with a locker or posi in the front ?

I wish there was more on line feedback/comparisons from people who have bought them ... just a few youtube videos ...
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:46 PM   #10
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The shop did say that they have a rep with Trans America, which own pretty much everything,(quadratec, G2, etc) and nowhere has them in stock so they are pretty much building to order. But that still only takes 2-3 weeks to build and have delivered. I am going to do an Eaton E-Locker in the front.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:00 PM
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The shop did say that they have a rep with Trans America, which own pretty much everything,(quadratec, G2, etc)
Ahhh - that is why Qaudratec has the Core 44 on their website. I'd think it would be better dealing with G2 direct though ...
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Old 03-11-2017, 02:49 PM   #12
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Well..... GOT IT ALL INSTALLED!!!! Have only driven it on road so far and it drives AWESOME! Still need to get an alignment done, that comes on Monday. 5th gear is usable again. There used to be a noticeable gap from 2nd-3rd gear, like I had to get the RPM's up a little more than between other gears, and that seems to not be the case anymore. Can't wait to get it off road. My Switch Pro engages the Elockers flawlessly so far. Everything is working exactly like I was hoping. One thing I can't believe I forgot I would need to change; speedo gear, but that's easy. One thing that I didn't think would need to be changed; they had to shorten the front driveshaft by 2". I had asked Quadratec AND the shop I took it to and they both said that wouldn't be required. However, I discovered the person I talked to at the shop is no longer there, but I figured Quadratec would've known, but oh well. The Core 44 is seriously beefy and just plain sharp looking. Also, with the higher pinon, has lessened the driveshaft angle. Can't speak to the Currie CorrectLync yet, as it needs to be aligned but so far it feels just a little more "solid". Will update as I go along; going to try and take it to a small hill I know of and see how she does but it's not very big. I just really want to put it in some dirt!! Here is what all I had installed:

Replaced front Dana 30 w/ Core 44 front axle w/4.56 and Eaton Elocker
Currie Correctlync Steering w/ new Rancho Stabilizer
Revolution Axle and Gear 30 spline shafts and 4.56 gears and Eaton Elocker.(Due to current stock at Revolution at time of purchase, went with a Thick, dual-drilled gearset to fit on a 3.73 and down Elocker)

Install Notes:
Front stock driveshaft DID need to be shortened by 2"
Used SwitchPro 8100 Auxillary Circuit to operate the lockers; did not use most of wiring harness from Eaton.
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Old 03-12-2017, 06:22 AM
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Looks Great ! You will have to pressure wash underneath to match the new front axle !

You have two things going on here - a regear and axle change. I am guessing the bulk of what you are noticing is the gear change, but given that it is running smoothly - the axle is working well in the daily driver mode. Look forward to hearing how you feel once you drive it off road and get the alignment.

What is your lift for the Currie Correctlync Steering ?

On shortening the driveshaft - hopefully just a minor irritation. Sounds like it was balanced well - or you would feel it. In my conversations with Quadratec, I have then not really knowledgeable on the technical areas, more a supplier of the parts. But usually they say they don't know vs giving an incorrect answer.
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:25 PM   #14
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Thanks Gauss! Yeah, I probably need to get under there and do some cleaning. Or, I could just get that axle a little dirty! I have since had the Jeep aligned, and it drives great!! Steering is solid and tracks straight. I have found myself reacting to the steering, like it used to get bumpsteer or react differently and I had just gotten used to it. Now, it just goes. It seems to not want to straighten itself out after a turn as easily; I have to help it a bit. I keep driving around town to help break in the gears (Even though some people say it is not necessary but I figure it won't hurt anything.)
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:27 PM   #15
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thats a mighty big diff cover with what looks like an RE track bar. did you cycle the suspension with the springs removed to verify the TB will clear the diff cover?

generally when there is a lack of "return to center" it is a sign of low caster
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:15 PM
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Hi Ironhead Jed - do you have recommended alignment settings by lift size ?
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:46 PM   #17
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basic rule of thumb is 1/16" (31" tires)- 1/8" (35" tires) toe in and as much caster as possible before experiencing drive line vibes. ~7 deg for 31's and ~5.5 deg for 35's.

there are a million variables and every jeep is different, so exacts can be difficult. i have always done my own alignment on TJ's and have no issues tracking down the highway at 70 mph without touching the steering wheel as long as there isnt a strong cross wind
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:01 PM
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Steering is solid and tracks straight. I have found myself reacting to the steering, like it used to get bumpsteer or react differently and I had just gotten used to it. Now, it just goes. It seems to not want to straighten itself out after a turn as easily; I have to help it a bit. I keep driving around town to help break in the gears (Even though some people say it is not necessary but I figure it won't hurt anything.)
I hope to have my Core 44's ( front and back ) in and running by early next month. I went with a TrueTrac in the back, and an E locker in the front. 3.73 gears and 33 inch tires. As Iron Jed said - I think the alignment is key !
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:34 PM   #19
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Hi Ironhead! Yes they cycled the whole suspension and no problems. I'll have to look at my sheet from Firestone but it does seem to drive great! I think my wheels not straightening out might've been from me being on an incline. I'll pay more attention when I drive it again to make sure.
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Old 03-23-2017, 12:52 AM   #20
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I installed the G2 Core 44 front and rear axle assemblies with ARBs and 4.10s on my '01 Sahara automatic with 33X12.5X15s back in November 2016. Since then I drove it 500 miles and then replaced the gear oil and inspected the differentials as recommended by G2. It has been driven to and from work approximately 25 miles round trip each day since November, about 1200 miles. Speeds for the break in period ranged from 25-50 mph and have stayed within that range until yesterday, March 21. The only noticeable difference within this time period was a decrease in gas mileage by about 3 mpg; currently approximately 12 mpg average. Acceleration and power seemed about the same as before the axle swap which I wasn't too concerned about since there isn't much difference between 3.73 and 4.10 gears.

Yesterday, the Jeep saw its first hill climbs, speeds up to 70 mph on the highway, and some light wheeln' with the new axles. Although the new axles do well with lower speeds and flat ground, once they hit the hills and higher speeds the 4.0 had a hard time keeping up whereas with the factory D30 and D35 with 3.73 gears had no problem at all. I can only imagine this is due to the heavier axles and less viscous gear lube required by G2; 85W-140. I'm pretty dissatisfied with the performance but am determined to work through this. Any thoughts/comments/suggestions/similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. As for off road performance the axles did well and the addition of selectable lockers was a plus but they weren't fully tested on this run.

The install was straight forward, pretty much plug-n-play. Along with the axles I went with the rear disk brake option. The G2 park brake cables (manufactured by G2 for the TJ disk brake swap) are too long so I'm still working through this issue. The front brakes and knuckles swapped over without any problems but I replaced the unit brearings since the Jeep had 80k miles; however, the original unit bearings will swap over to the G2 axle.

I also disabled the ABS system by removing the fuse and relays and removing the HCU. The ARB compressor fits perfectly in the old HCU location. I installed an '06 Rubicon Prop Vlv (part #52126173AA) which wasn't necessary but I figured Mopar must know what they were doing to change the prop vlv in the last year of the TJ specifically for rear disk brakes. The old brake lines were also replaced. Some advice: when replacing the brake lines it is best to hand bend the larger radii. Also ensure you bleed the brakes several times from each location until absolutely no air is present. Even when you think all air is gone, try one more time. I used a Motive Power Bleeder which I highly recommend. I don't endorse the brand but I recommend a power bleeder, especially if doing the bleeding alone. Another huge recommendation is to simply remove your ABS sensors and cables...DO NOT CUT THEM OFF AS SOME HAVE POSTED IN THESE FORUMS. Trace the cables and you will find quick disconnects and a couple clamps. Why ruin a fully functional part??? After they are removed donate them to someone with an illuminated ABS light.

I'll post pictures as soon as I figure how that is done. Any questions and/or comments are welcome and appreciated. To me, the cost of re-gearing and new chormoly axles for the D35 amounted to approximately the same cost as an axle swap so that is why I chose this route. Of course labor costs were eliminated with the axle swap by doing it myself, which I'm glad I did and have learned a lot along the way.
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Old 03-23-2017, 01:03 AM   #21
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I forgot to mention that the front and rear driveshaft lengths were measured before the axle swap. The front drive shaft was shortened 1/2 inch and no modification was done to the rear after the swap. Yes, I still have the ole slip yoke and rear driveshaft. No vibrations so I'm Holding off until the next winter downtime and then will consider the SYE after further research.
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:04 AM
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I installed the G2 Core 44 front and rear axle assemblies with ARBs and 4.10s on my '01 Sahara automatic with 33X12.5X15s back in November 2016.

The only noticeable difference within this time period was a decrease in gas mileage by about 3 mpg; currently approximately 12 mpg average.

the 4.0 had a hard time keeping up whereas with the factory D30 and D35 with 3.73 gears had no problem at all. I can only imagine this is due to the heavier axles and less viscous gear lube required by G2; 85W-140.
So sorry to hear and you are experiencing this. A couple of questions ( from the parts above ):

How long were you running 35's before the swap ? I would have thought the 3 speed auto might struggle at 70 mph with the 35s too

Losing 3 mph seems material after the install - and hard to believe there is not some extra friction/drag somewhere ... which is magnified at high speeds. Could their be an issue with rear disk brake set up / ebrake ?

I hope this sorts out !
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:31 AM   #23
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Thank you for your reply and suggestions Gauss. While the Jeep was on jackstands after the axle swap I ensured there wasn't any binding or brake dragging and also tested the lockers were engaging and disengaging properly. Both axles and all four wheels turn freely by hand but unfortunately I didn't do this before the swap for a comparison. The 33s ran well and the Jeep definitely performed better on hills and at 70 mph before the swap; trail use the performance loss is really unoticible at slow speeds and while in 4-low. Again, my only guess and obvious differences are the heavier weight gear oil and the extra weight of the beefier axles. It's also an awesome Jeep built to tackle trails and not highways so the loss of mpg isn't a deal breaker but the significant decrease in performance is very concerning. Living in Denver all the good trails are at least a couple hour drive and require climbing large inclines while not holding up traffic. That's impossible to do with the current setup but brainstorming and tweaking continue.
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Old 03-23-2017, 04:40 PM
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Hi iditarodfans !

So did you change to 35s ( from 33s ) at the time you changed put in the core 44s. I am not an expert on gear sizes - but if you are running 4:10s with 35s on the 3 speed auto, that might be a little sluggish compared to 4:88s or 5:13s, which might be what others are running with your wheel/tire and trannie set up
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:45 PM   #25
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Was just reading up on this thread for interest but iditarodfans, it seems really strange to me that you're having worse performance with 4.10 gears than 3.73's I could see it being comparable but not worse. The gear oil shouldn't make a difference, but tire size change obviously would if you went to 35's like Gauss66 said, although I didn't see you mention that anywhere.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:45 PM   #26
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Thank you for all of your replies! No I'm still running 33s and yes performance has decreased at highway speeds when climbing a hill after the swap. I also want to keep on the subject of this thread but still openly welcome inputs to my issue.

As for ordering and delivery, the axles were ordered through Quadratec. Their customer service was great going through the ordering process. I was mostly referred to G2 when contacting Quad's tech assistance. G2 tech support has been sketchy. Call on different days and get different answers. How much gear oil to add? I was told fill to overflow (have you seen how high the fill port is?) and also 1.25-1.5 qts in the front and 2.25-2.5 qts in the rear. The latter was told to me twice by G2 and once by 4WheelParts who sell and service G2 axles so that is what I'm running; 1.5 qts front and 2.5 qts rear. Good luck with G2 tech support.

The build and delivery time was just under three weeks. The axles arrived in pretty flimsy wooden crates which the front axle crate was broken to the point of not supporting the axle. I wrapped the axle in blankets upon delivery to give it protection from the pallet jack as lifting by the axle itself was the only way to get it off the truck. The axle stayed in the street (with my Jeep parked in front of it) until I got a buddy to help carry the axle into my garage. The rear axle crate was in good enough condition that the axle was delivered right to my garage. No damage was found to either axle after close inspection except for a few scrapes which were touched up after installation.

Like I said before, installation was straight forward and G2 includes all the needed parts and fasteners. As for allignment, caster is fixed by a square aluminum block which is inserted into a channel on the UCA mount. I'll upload pictures. The only way to adjust caster would be with adjustable control arms.

The quality of the axles exceeded my expectations. They look great but also have exceptional workmanship in them. They are roughly twice the weight of the 30 and 35, which not only shows their beefiness but also can be a hinderance on the HP of your engine due to the additional weight. They also give you approximately 3/4 inch additional lift.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:58 PM   #27
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Qts! Are you sure? In both, my D30 and D44, take pints (pt.) Something doesn't sound right.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:23 PM   #28
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Just called G2 and talked with Steve in tech support. He confirmed that a Core 44 with ARB lockers requires 1.25-1.5 QTS in the front and 2.25-2.5 QTS in the rear is indeed correct.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:40 PM
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Okay - so you were always running 33s ( my bad - I read it wrong ! ) and the before after difference is only the axles. Losing the 3 mpg seems suspect to me ( is this calculation over a mix of both city and hiway driving ? ) - as we would see a big mpg difference between Tj Rubis with a 44 and standard TJs with a 35 .... puzzled !
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:41 PM
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Just a thought - are you locked in 4 wheel drive ?

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