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Old 01-08-2017, 03:42 PM
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anyone running electric fans? Sensor questions

i currently posted a thread about not having heat and having a electric fan. with the advice from people on the group they said to try a new thermostat. i bought one and will probably install here soon but while at work today i talked to multiple customers that came in the hardware store i work at and asked them and they all asked if my electric fan has a on/off switch or a heat sensor. i have tried to search but cant find anything.

this one guy has a camaro he has a electric fan on with a summit racing sensor kit. i am wondering if anyone on this forum has used one of these sensors of if anyone uses electric fans and has a way to monitor the usage of the fan. right now my fan is just wired into my ignition and it is constantly running non stop. my jeep is running well below the 195 mark.

i was thinking of purchasing this summit racing kit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30102

if link does not work its part number 30102 on summit racing.com

i was wondering if i can just use a brass "T" screw it into my stock thermostat sensor and use that probe and then still use my stock one but use that "T" to be able to control my electric fan and still have my normal temp gauge inside. or will having a "T" not have sufficient coolant flow to both sensors.

also i would run a switch with this set up just in case a faulty sensor i can always use a toggle switch to turn my fan on constantly.

just need some input if anyone has done something like this. its currently 10 degrees where i live and everyone is saying that fan should not be running constantly and could be a cause of lower temp readings.

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Old 01-08-2017, 05:02 PM   #2
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At 10 degrees ambient your e fan should hardly ever run, assuming your engine and radiator ate working properly.

Is your e fan wired hot? Basically it runs whenever the engine is running?

The brass T doesn't work. It seems not enough water will get up to the sensors. I've never tried it, but did research out and found at least two ppl who didn't have success with that method.

I would disconnect the fan and see what happens. Engine should reach operating temp.

Do you know what e fan you have? Can you post some pics.



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Old 01-08-2017, 05:15 PM
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At 10 degrees ambient your e fan should hardly ever run, assuming your engine and radiator ate working properly.

Is your e fan wired hot? Basically it runs whenever the engine is running?

The brass T doesn't work. It seems not enough water will get up to the sensors. I've never tried it, but did research out and found at least two ppl who didn't have success with that method.

I would disconnect the fan and see what happens. Engine should reach operating temp.

Do you know what e fan you have? Can you post some pics.



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yes my electric fan is wired right into my ignition. so as soon as my key gets turned on my fan turns on and nothing shuts my fan off until my key gets turned off. so i was trying to research ways to have the e fan turn on and off when needed....

i heard about the radiator probe but heard problems about them, also was thinking of running a hi low off switch maybe can run my fan at a different speed but i didn't get home yet to look at my fan dont know if its a 2 speed fan. but also it will be a pain every time i need my fan on to turn it on manually just in case i forget. i just have a feeling my fan is making my jeep a lot cooler then it should be.

but i will try to get pictures when i can for you. i dont remember what brand it is.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:18 PM   #4
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You can safely disconnect the fan in 10 degree weather. Keep an eye on the temp gauge. Unless you are seriously working your engine I don't think you will need the fan. Doubt your engine will go much over 205-210

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Old 01-08-2017, 05:23 PM   #5
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There are adapters available to mount fan switches in both radiator hoses and heater hoses.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:27 PM   #6
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sounds like your fan is hardwired to an ignition hot source- so anytime the Jeep is on your fan is on.

My buddy has electric fans installed on his Sonoma- the on/off switch they asked you about is if you have a manual switch to turn it on only - in this case instead of having a rocker style switch, your "on" is just when you turn your Jeep on.

With the temp switch you need to find a spot where you can screw the sensor into your block - my buddy removed a frost plug on the block and was able to use that location for his sensor...then whatever the temp sensor is set for- in the one linked it is 195 then at 195 your fans will turn on and stay on until it drops to 185.

a T fitting won't really work if you aren't having a constant stream of coolant hit your sensor.

I don't think your electric fan has to do with you not having heat though- I mean it running full time will slow the process of your engine getting hot quicker, but maybe it will add 5 minutes more to your warm up time...If you have no heat that is a separate issue....take a piece of cardboard and stick it in your grille and cover half of your rad and it will warm up faster, but you'll still see you have no heat if you don't have heat currently.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:53 PM
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sounds like your fan is hardwired to an ignition hot source- so anytime the Jeep is on your fan is on.

My buddy has electric fans installed on his Sonoma- the on/off switch they asked you about is if you have a manual switch to turn it on only - in this case instead of having a rocker style switch, your "on" is just when you turn your Jeep on.

With the temp switch you need to find a spot where you can screw the sensor into your block - my buddy removed a frost plug on the block and was able to use that location for his sensor...then whatever the temp sensor is set for- in the one linked it is 195 then at 195 your fans will turn on and stay on until it drops to 185.

a T fitting won't really work if you aren't having a constant stream of coolant hit your sensor.

I don't think your electric fan has to do with you not having heat though- I mean it running full time will slow the process of your engine getting hot quicker, but maybe it will add 5 minutes more to your warm up time...If you have no heat that is a separate issue....take a piece of cardboard and stick it in your grille and cover half of your rad and it will warm up faster, but you'll still see you have no heat if you don't have heat currently.
sorry i should clearify....i have heat i guess but the air that comes from my vent is warm air... i just replaced my heatercore.. i post a thread why my heatis still warm and others said my thermostat might be stuck open...

yes i might try the cardboard trick because my jeep does take forever to get to operating temp, and when my jeep temp gauge reaches normal operation temp (around 200) it quickly drops right to around 170/180 mark it i had to guess. someone on here showed me a gauge with where the temps should be and mine is way below the 195 mark at normal operating temp.

i am going to change my thermostat but i just was wondering if anyone tried that kit and had any luck because i need to do somthing. i wish i could just have the fan run slower sometimes not just wide open.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:55 PM
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There are adapters available to mount fan switches in both radiator hoses and heater hoses.

really? interesting i might have to do some research. do you have a link or maybe a place to look? thank you!
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:17 PM
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wow awesome. what do you recommend if i do that what hose would be the best to install it on so i get a accurate temp reading with what my motor is at and what my inside gauge is telling me
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:29 PM   #11
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...what hose would be the best to install it on so i get a accurate temp reading with what my motor is at and what my inside gauge is telling me
My recommendation would be a 190°F switch in the lower radiator hose. That is consistent with the configuration of the older XJ's with the 4.0L engine. They featured a 190°F switch in the discharge side of the radiator.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:59 PM   #12
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Like I said in your other thread, disconnect the e-fan and drive it. See if the problem improves. I think it won't, and if it doesn't, you're definitely barking up the wrong tree trying to tweak the e-fan set up. Also, if you get the e-fan setup working perfectly, it won't be any better than the stock mechanical fan and it won't be as reliable either.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:16 PM   #13
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Like I said in your other thread, disconnect the e-fan and drive it. See if the problem improves. I think it won't, and if it doesn't, you're definitely barking up the wrong tree trying to tweak the e-fan set up.
An electric fan that runs continuously needs tweaking, regardless of other factors. No doubt about it.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:38 PM   #14
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I actually run an electric fan in my Jeep. I use a Flex-e-lite VSC (variable speed controller) see link, to set the fan thermostat. I have my temperature sensor in the TOP HOSE, with the VSC, you can set the "fan on" temperature by adjusting the set screw in it. I used an infrared thermometer and over the course of a couple days I had it coming on when I wanted it too.

You can wire the VSC to run the fan off there sensor in the top hose AND/OR with a switch in the cab to override the sensor and run at high speed. If you cross deep water just pull the 40 amp fuse then reinstall after crossing.

With the fan running off the ignition your coolant temp is only controlled by the thermostat opening/closing and your relying on air being pushed to the radiator to cool it. My fan comes on at all outside temps maybe only for a few minutes but it does run.

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...re-sensor.html
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:53 PM   #15
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First, do yourself a favor and take the advice of tangofox.

I do have an electric fan and I have been using this controller for the last five years. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31174/overview/

You could also consider this controller, although I have no experience with it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...MobileSwitchNo

Each of these controllers has a temperature probe that is inserted in the fins of your radiator. This probe seems delicate but has never worked flawlessly and is easy to install.





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Old 01-08-2017, 08:57 PM   #16
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I meant to say that the temperature probe has worked flawlessly.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:00 PM   #17
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Here is a photo of the controller installed in my jeep.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:30 PM   #18
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First, do yourself a favor and take the advice of tangofox. I do have an electric fan and I have been using this controller for the last five years. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31174/overview/ You could also consider this controller, although I have no experience with it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...MobileSwitchNo Each of these controllers has a temperature probe that is inserted in the fins of your radiator. This probe seems delicate but has never worked flawlessly and is easy to install. Sent from my iPad
I started with the probe type thermostat, it was worthless. It would not stay in contact with the fins of the radiator. OP, if you want that type of a controller, let me know I have one.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:49 PM
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My recommendation would be a 190°F switch in the lower radiator hose. That is consistent with the configuration of the older XJ's with the 4.0L engine. They featured a 190°F switch in the discharge side of the radiator.
thank you for your help! ill keep you updated
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:02 PM
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thank you everyone for your response ill keep you guys updated when I get it figured out and go over all my options. im new to tthis forum but I can tell im going to love it haha
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:01 PM   #21
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I actually run an electric fan in my Jeep. I use a Flex-e-lite VSC (variable speed controller) see link, to set the fan thermostat. I have my temperature sensor in the TOP HOSE, with the VSC, you can set the "fan on" temperature by adjusting the set screw in it. I used an infrared thermometer and over the course of a couple days I had it coming on when I wanted it too.

You can wire the VSC to run the fan off there sensor in the top hose AND/OR with a switch in the cab to override the sensor and run at high speed. If you cross deep water just pull the 40 amp fuse then reinstall after crossing.

With the fan running off the ignition your coolant temp is only controlled by the thermostat opening/closing and your relying on air being pushed to the radiator to cool it. My fan comes on at all outside temps maybe only for a few minutes but it does run.

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...re-sensor.html
What e fan set up are you running? Are there any threads on here with pics or a write up?

Thanks

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Old 01-08-2017, 11:08 PM   #22
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I'm running a Flex-e-lite. I installed it using the instructions that came with it. It's pretty straight forward. If you need any help shoot me a pm.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:10 PM   #23
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I'm running a Flex-e-lite. I installed it using the instructions that came with it. It's pretty straight forward. If you need any help shoot me a pm.
I don't want to hijack this thread too much, but I guess I just did...Lol

how long have you run it?

Why the switch to e fan?

What are your thoughts about its performance?

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Old 01-08-2017, 11:30 PM   #24
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I don't want to hijack this thread too much, but u guys I just did...Lol

how long have you run it?

Why the switch?

What are your thoughts about its performance? Thanks Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
5 years now.

I replaced the radiator, and the fan clutch, started reading up on the E-fan option and figured now was best time.

Performance wise:
the fan works perfectly, engine warms up quicker especially in winter, when I'm rock crawling or even heavy traffic on hot days, I flick the switch in the cab and by pass the VSC, fan runs full speed, it also continues to run after engine is off helping with heat soak, if I do cross deep water, I can simply pull the fuse. And since I'm running the VSC, I can really dial in when it comes on. My fan is rated at 3400 CFM of air flow.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:41 PM   #25
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5 years now.

I replaced the radiator, and the fan clutch, started reading up on the E-fan option and figured now was best time.

Performance wise:
the fan works perfectly, engine warms up quicker especially in winter, when I'm rock crawling or even heavy traffic on hot days, I flick the switch in the cab and by pass the VSC, fan runs full speed, it also continues to run after engine is off helping with heat soak, if I do cross deep water, I can simply pull the fuse. And since I'm running the VSC, I can really dial in when it comes on. My fan is rated at 3400 CFM of air flow.
Thanks for the details.

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Old 11-12-2017, 06:01 AM   #26
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First, do yourself a favor and take the advice of tangofox.

I do have an electric fan and I have been using this controller for the last five years. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31174/overview/

You could also consider this controller, although I have no experience with it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...MobileSwitchNo

Each of these controllers has a temperature probe that is inserted in the fins of your radiator. This probe seems delicate but has never worked flawlessly and is easy to install.

I've used both of those flex-a-lite controllers in the past.
Both work well but the 31149 is awfully expensive for a simple controller.
A cheaper simple alternative is the flex-a-lite 31147

The 31174 is more expensive however its incredible at what it does. I like it best.. even better than OEM's because it gives you full in cab control! (in cab = manual on and manual off), starts the fan softly which prevents a sudden load on the electrical system, uses less power, ties into the AC., and ramps speed up from 60% to 100% if needed.

The simple controllers give a 100% full on / all of a sudden type of operation. That's really hard on the electrical system and its completely not necessary.

Generally I'll run a small wire from the fan into the cab and put a blue LED inside so I can see when the fan is powered. (its hard to feel when the fans are ramped up to only 60% speed)

As for the SS probe in the radiator. I've figured out how to make it work and have well over 100k miles and with 3 different cars w/o any problems. Do this:
1. get (or make) two rubber flat washers that fit over the OD of the probe tightly. O-Rings are not big enough. You need some thick material. Something at least 1/8" (3mm) thick or thicker and with at least a 1" (25mm) O.D.
2. Slide one washer on the probe
3. Slide the probe into the radiator somewhere convenient but near the outlet hose from the engine. Make sure its not loose but pushed through the rad pleats where its got good contact.
4. Push the other washer over the end now protruding. Push the washers towards each other sandwiching the radiator snugly. This prevents the probel from moving... which is the historical problem.
5. Keep the washers from backing off. I use either small zip ties or a dab of glue on the probe where the washer is located. (I like zips ties because I can easily remove if needed)

The way I tune the fan on point is to use a infrared temp gauge pointing at the area on the radiator pleats where my probe is located (close to the engine outlet). When I see temps about 10deg F warmer than the T-Stat rating I turn the screw just enough to make the fan come on. That will get you 95% done. From there it usually takes a mid 90's day and in stop an go traffic to do the final tuning.
The last one I did was an all iron V8 w/aluminum radiator and my final on point was 12F above T-stat rating. (it would cool off real quick due to the thick aluminum radiator).
Tune it this way and the fan will run pretty much like stock OEM cars.

I've been doing it this way for 15+yrs, driven east to west, summer in Texas winters in Michigan... zero problems.

Regards, Rich
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Old 11-12-2017, 11:32 AM   #27
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Holy old thread resurrection.
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Old 11-12-2017, 02:51 PM   #28
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Its called posterity

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