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Old 06-30-2013, 10:16 PM
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Axle advice

So I've got a quick question...my wife's jeep has the craptastic dana 35 in the rear, I'm putting a new lift kit on it and will be running 35x12.5x17 all terrains on 17x8 rock stars. Will this axle hold up to the abuse of mall crawling and the occasional mild trail. I'm doing an auto swap right now and plan on changing gears, but I don't want to waste money on the 35 if its going to break a lot.

Thanks for the help!

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:25 PM   #2
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The most talked about thing on this forum is the dana 35... If you take it in the woods at all, get a super 35 kit, a dana 44, or a ford 8.8 (weakest to strongest)

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/are-...wap-92569.html

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:36 PM
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I appreciate the reply, and I've read that post. I don't want to spend the loot on a super 35 kit to still have a marginal axle. I do appreciate the response though, sorry to keep beating this dead horse. It's going o cost me about four hundred for gears and install so that's my cheapest route but if going to die a horrible death.....
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:44 PM   #4
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Ford 8.8 and Cherokee high pinion dana 30 front with 4.10s right out of the boneyard. Not perfect for 35s, but stronger axles and lower gears for less than a grand if done cheap.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:56 PM
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Good to know! I was just checking out the Artec truss for the 8.8, probably way overkill for her jeep though but better than fixing it repeatedly.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #6
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So from what I gather here, Dana 35's are useless ?
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:25 PM
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I'm no expert by any means, as my wheeler is an EB with a 9". However from what I've read the dana 35 is prone to bending the axle tubes under heavy use, the ring gear and pinion are small and strip out easily with lower gear sets installed and they break axle shafts under mild use. That's all I got, I'm sure people with more wrangler experience can add to it.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:32 PM   #8
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No, not useless.... They will bring 20$ something in scrap or if you have a heavy boat it would probably be a decent anchor just kidding. They are ok if you are running stock and don't do much wheeling. A customer of mine has a 98 with 160k on it and 33" that doesn't go off road and we just had to put an axle and bearing in due to bearing failure but other than that its ok for the easy life it lives. Basically if your not hard on it and are running stock or close it can live but with 35s I wouldn't drop money into it. I'd sell it for a few hundred and put in a 44 or 8.8. You'll definitely be a lot less worried when you do hit the trail.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:45 PM
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Looks like I found a dana 44 local to me out of a rubi, only downside is that it has 4:88's, which is probably way to low for 35's and an auto so I'm still going to have to re gear.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:53 PM   #10
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Depends on which auto you are swapping in.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:55 PM
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3 speed 32RH. Everything I've read is pointing towards 4:10's.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:15 AM   #12
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What's a 44 run you ? I know it will fit my 04 and can do it myself. I'm on 32's but will go to 33's. I'm not hard core by any means but would love to have the piece of mind with a 44.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:26 AM
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It from a guy on our local forum, he's selling it for $800.00 with 4:88's and the stock rubi locker. Seems like a good deal to me.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:18 AM   #14
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3 speed 32RH. Everything I've read is pointing towards 4:10's.
With the 32RH either 4.10s or 4.56s. I'd go with the 4.56s for the lower crawl ratio if it was a weekend wheeling rig or if you knew it wasn't going to see a lot of highway time.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:51 AM   #15
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For 35s go with the 4.56s. 4.10s are for 33s and you will like the extra go. Don't expect to drive it 80 mph though. If you do a lot of highway then stick with 4.10s. The d35 can be made to live a while if you are a smart driver and know your limits but with 35s I would definitely replace it. The hp30/f8.8 combo suggested would work great for 35s, although a 4.10 hp30 is basically impossible to find. You could stick w/ your stock d30 and just add axles but that's another 600-800 bones. Unlocked the 30 should handle 35s and some mild to moderate wheeling. Do not thrash on it. I have a locked 30 on 33s now that I have beat to hell and back and it's still kicking. They are very stout.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:06 AM   #16
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My -35c, Superior truss, Alloy USA shafts, 4.88s/True-Trac -


I have competed in the Poison Spider Challenge (modified-stock class) 4 years in a row on this axle and 33"s, The -35 is not the turd/bomb/crap everyone says it is, unless you just have no throttle control at all or no sense of finesse. They can be a perfectly fine axle, I made sure when I went to alloy shafts I kept the same spline count, the reason is easy, when your 1000 miles from home on a holiday weekend do you want to wait for the alloy shaft to come UPS before you can fix it and go home? a week in a hotel? I like that I go to almost any junk yard almost anywhere and get a temp shaft if one breaks, of course because I made it simple, it's never happened.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:09 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by O_M_Jeep View Post
My -35c, Superior truss, Alloy USA shafts, 4.88s/True-Trac -


I have competed in the Poison Spider Challenge (modified-stock class) 4 years in a row on this axle and 33"s, The -35 is not the turd/bomb/crap everyone says it is, unless you just have no throttle control at all or no sense of finesse. They can be a perfectly fine axle, I made sure when I went to alloy shafts I kept the same spline count, the reason is easy, when your 1000 miles from home on a holiday weekend do you want to wait for the alloy shaft to come UPS before you can fix it and go home? a week in a hotel? I like that I go to almost any junk yard almost anywhere and get a temp shaft if one breaks, of course because I made it simple, it's never happened.

Yup, I have been wheeling mine HARD all stock for a few years now, no where near as built as yours and it's lived. A built d35 is perfectly suitable for most drivers/rigs on 33s or 35s.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:11 AM
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My -35c, Superior truss, Alloy USA shafts, 4.88s/True-Trac -


I have competed in the Poison Spider Challenge (modified-stock class) 4 years in a row on this axle and 33"s, The -35 is not the turd/bomb/crap everyone says it is, unless you just have no throttle control at all or no sense of finesse. They can be a perfectly fine axle, I made sure when I went to alloy shafts I kept the same spline count, the reason is easy, when your 1000 miles from home on a holiday weekend do you want to wait for the alloy shaft to come UPS before you can fix it and go home? a week in a hotel? I like that I go to almost any junk yard almost anywhere and get a temp shaft if one breaks, of course because I made it simple, it's never happened.
I appreciate the response, what do you have tied up into the axle money wise? Is the 8.8 a cheaper alternative? And last but not least wouldn't it hold true about going to the junkyard for a spare shaft. Not critizing, just trying to make every dollar go as far as I can.
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:07 PM   #19
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I appreciate the response, what do you have tied up into the axle money wise? Is the 8.8 a cheaper alternative? And last but not least wouldn't it hold true about going to the junkyard for a spare shaft. Not critizing, just trying to make every dollar go as far as I can.
The D35 can be made to work great with 33s and it can be made to last a while on 35s, locked might be another story. The bottom line is you are really pushing your luck. Is it worth it to you to beef up a D35 knowing people have demolished them so easily on 35s? An example: my Jeep is an "X" and shipped with the D35. Shortly after putting on 35s and beefing up/locking the D35 the po lunched the axle and decided that his money was better spent on a D44. I've also got a friend who just bought a bone stock "X" and knowing he plans for 35s his first move is going to be sourcing at least a rear axle. Bottom line: Yes, it is more expensive to replace the D35 than it is to beef it up. However, by beefing it up you are pouring money into an axle that still shouldn't be run with a locked set of 35s on difficult trails. If 33s are the absolute biggest tire ou will ever ever ever run, go ahead and beef up the D35. If you want locked 35s without worrying if every time you touch the gas will be the time you grenade it, ditch it. Simple as that.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:34 PM   #20
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Superior truss - $435
Alloy USA shafts - $245
True-Trac - $380
4.88 gears - $300
Total - $1360

to do an 8.8, you have all the same expenses except maybe the alloy shafts, though I would do those again as well, plus you have the cost of the axle and the brackets. There used to be a guy in Denver that sold bolt-in 8.8s for about $900.

The downside to building a -35 up is that even with all the upgrades I've done I won't be going any larger than 35"s, for me that's ok, I have no desire to go larger than 35"s, and I'm on 33"s with a lot of life in them now, so it's about where you see your build going.

I did just buy a set of 62" (wms-wms) axles, a rear -60 and a -44 front. They are geared at 4.10 so I could use them roughly as is (with brackets changed) and they were $250 for both. I don't know if they will, after being built, go in my Jeep or in the buggy that is tearing around in my head. What I do know is what I have in that -35c is peanuts compared to what I'll spend building the -60 and -44, but they will sit and torment me for awhile before I even start on them.

And yes, you can get spare 8.8 shafts at a junkyard too, thats why I haven't done the super 35 and wouldn't do a super 88 kit, once you eliminate the c-clips your stuck waiting on UPS or FedEx, I trailer to distant trails these days, so it's not as big a concern, but it was before I had a tow rig and trailer.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:41 PM   #21
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Ford 8.8

Axle - 150
Brackets 150-300
All new brake parts, refurb etc - 250

Flange adapter - 30

Locker-250+/-
Gears - 300

Even if you didn't want to lock and it has the right gears (up to 4.10) You are looking at 600 at the cheapest up to 1300.

So literally the same money to buy and build the 8.8. Maybe more or less depending. I think I have around 650 in mine.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:43 PM   #22
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IMO if you have the money for a new set of 35's and rims, you should seriously consider a D44(Im not the biggest fan of the 8.8) as well. Its not too hard to source a TJ Dana 44 rear for modest money either.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:56 PM   #23
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IMO if you have the money for a new set of 35's and rims, you should seriously consider a D44(Im not the biggest fan of the 8.8) as well. Its not too hard to source a TJ Dana 44 rear for modest money either.
Around here it is. I just saw the first one in 2 years here and it was still more expensive than my 8.8 which is stronger than a d44 and has discs instead of drums along with all new parts. Not to mention building your own axle allows you to tweak a lot of things and get the stock rear suspension geometry back closer to stock with smart placement of the brackets.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:18 PM   #24
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Around here it is. I just saw the first one in 2 years here and it was still more expensive than my 8.8 which is stronger than a d44 and has discs instead of drums along with all new parts. Not to mention building your own axle allows you to tweak a lot of things and get the stock rear suspension geometry back closer to stock with smart placement of the brackets.
There are a half dozen D44's in my neck of the woods for only a few hundred bucks give or take depending on condition.

And D44's can be had with or converted to disc brakes(mine came stock with rear discs).

Strengthwise they are about the same with(But the D44 can be built up to be stronger)the slight nod goin to the 8.8 in stock config, but the D44 has quite a few advantages. The D44 has better ground clearance. The D44 doesn't have c-clips. The D44 is the correct width. The D44 has a TON more aftermarket support.

These reasons are why I prefer the 44.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:45 PM   #25
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Ford 8.8

Axle - 150
Brackets 150-300
All new brake parts, refurb etc - 250

Flange adapter - 30

Locker-250+/-
Gears - 300

Even if you didn't want to lock and it has the right gears (up to 4.10) You are looking at 600 at the cheapest up to 1300.

So literally the same money to buy and build the 8.8. Maybe more or less depending. I think I have around 650 in mine.
I'm curious what locker you can get for $250 +/- and where you get rear brackets for $300?
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:48 PM   #26
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not sure about the lockers but the brackets you can find easily for 300$, the artec truss is in that price range, what is going to get you is the price to have the truss system installed, and also the down time while installing

you can check east coast gear supply they will send you a ready to bolt in 8.8 for cheaper than you can buy most used d44
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:54 PM   #27
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Yes, you can get an Artec truss very reasonably, and that takes care of the upper brackets mounting area if you're planning a 4-link, but doesn't include the actual upper brackets, and it doesn't supply you with lower brackets, or track bar bracket if you don't 4-link.

I see, you meant the Artec 8.8 swap kit with truss for $330, that is a good deal, I like Artec more and more.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:01 PM
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I've been doing a lot more research on this and I think I'm going with the rubi dana 44 I mentioned earlier. I will be changing the carrier to a limited slip, and changing gears as well. This route is still cheaper for me than buying into the Dana 35 or building an 8.8 out of the junkyard. Plus I'll be able to make up a little money selling the rubi locker and the 4:88 gears.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:32 PM   #29
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There are a half dozen D44's in my neck of the woods for only a few hundred bucks give or take depending on condition.

And D44's can be had with or converted to disc brakes(mine came stock with rear discs).

Strengthwise they are about the same with(But the D44 can be built up to be stronger)the slight nod goin to the 8.8 in stock config, but the D44 has quite a few advantages. The D44 has better ground clearance. The D44 doesn't have c-clips. The D44 is the correct width. The D44 has a TON more aftermarket support.

These reasons are why I prefer the 44.
I envy you then my friend I have never seen a tj d44 that cheap. yards want 1000+ for them and hp30s around here. luckily other axles are cheap like 60s, 14bs, hp44s, etc. Or private sellers. Of course they can be converted or some come that way. Most are drum. The shafts of an 8.8 are much stronger than a d44. See:

"Axle shaft Strength and output torque rating by Warn and 4 Wheeler

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)


COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500] "

The d44 has marginal ground clearance gains over the ford 8.8. Check out mine and it's not bad at all. In fact it's only about an inch and a quarter lower than the d35, mostly because of the much bigger ring gear. I have a chart if you don't believe me. The c-clip is a non-issue because the shafts are much stronger than a d44 and would break way after the d44 would, and if the d44 is really a viable option then the 8.8 shafts would never break. Even if you do break a shaft, the disc brakes hold everything in. The 8.8 is nearly the same width, a half inch difference per side. There is a good bit of aftermarket support for the 8.8, as it has become such a popular axle swap in both the offroad and racing communities. The 88 has a larger ring gear and more splines on the axle shaft compared to the d44. The pinion shaft on the 8.8 is also much larger and overall the R/P are beefier than the d44.


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I'm curious what locker you can get for $250 +/- and where you get rear brackets for $300?
Aussie for a ford 8.8 is like 280. I have seen lockrights for different axles as low as 210 in the past.

brackets: 200- TJ Wrangler Rear Axle Bracket Kit [Axle Kit-TJ] - $199.00 : Mad 4 Wheel Drive

I got my artec truss for close 300 shipped watching for sales/discount codes.

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Originally Posted by O_M_Jeep View Post
Yes, you can get an Artec truss very reasonably, and that takes care of the upper brackets mounting area if you're planning a 4-link, but doesn't include the actual upper brackets, and it doesn't supply you with lower brackets, or track bar bracket if you don't 4-link.

I see, you meant the Artec 8.8 swap kit with truss for $330, that is a good deal, I like Artec more and more.

That's the kit going on my 8.8 swap.

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Old 07-01-2013, 09:53 PM   #30
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It from a guy on our local forum, he's selling it for $800.00 with 4:88's and the stock rubi locker. Seems like a good deal to me.
I picked up a complete '97 "Exploder" with 8.8 for $300. Selling the trans and engine to make my $300 back. The guy also threw in a 9" but It has drums. :spew:

Just an Idea for ya..

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