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Old 10-24-2018, 10:13 PM
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Best spicer U joints

Anybody have part numbers for the best spicer brand joints for axle shaft and front driveshaft?

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Old 10-24-2018, 10:55 PM   #2
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Axle shaft Spicer 5-760x
Driveshaft Spicer 5-1310x

Both are direct fit upgrades to what the factory installed.
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Old 10-24-2018, 11:16 PM
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Boom. Exactly what I needed thank you
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Old 10-24-2018, 11:21 PM   #4
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Denny's driveshaft is a good place to find them.
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:09 AM   #5
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Along these lines--Would the Spicer 5-760x also fit in a set of alloy chromo shafts?
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:18 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by wavebacktothetj View Post
Boom. Exactly what I needed thank you
It's tough to understand how someone could provide you with part numbers without knowing which model TJ you have. Hopefully, you don't have a Rubicon. Because, if you do, the driveshaft joints are not going to fit.
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:08 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
It's tough to understand how someone could provide you with part numbers without knowing which model TJ you have. Hopefully, you don't have a Rubicon. Because, if you do, the driveshaft joints are not going to fit.
It would have taken you ten seconds to read his Garage profile to know he drives a Sport.

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Along these lines--Would the Spicer 5-760x also fit in a set of alloy chromo shafts?
If the chromoly shafts use the OE size u-joints yes the 5-760x joints fit. Some alloy shafts are now coming set up for the larger 1350 size u-joints but most are set up to work with the OE Dana 44 size 297 and 5-760x. The 5-760x is a direct replacement for the OE 5-297 standard TJs came equipped with.
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Old 07-17-2019, 02:24 PM   #8
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how many do I need to order if I need to replace all of u-joints in the drive train for a 99' TJ Sport?
I'm guessing 5?
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:03 PM   #9
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2 for the Axle Shafts, 3 for front Driveshaft, 2 for rear Driveshaft
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:35 PM   #10
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7

2 for the Axle Shafts, 3 for front Driveshaft, 2 for rear Driveshaft
Thanks for the feedback. I already have had done the front axle shafts.
So, it looks like I need 5 of them.

Will all 5 (7 if I did axles) be the same exact U-joint?

I'm thinking the problem is U-joints since I am "squeaking" bad at end of day but it stops when I spray WD40 on the U-joints. A lot of the noise went away when I disengaged the transfer case too (Front drive shaft no longer turning?).

Also, I see mixed opinions regarding greaseable (zerk fitting) and the non-greaseable. I just assumed that one would want the greaseable ones but it doesn't necessarily look that way according to various opinions here. It looks like strong support for a higher quality non-greaseable (Spicer?) u joint. Surprising to me as I figured being able to add grease would be a good thing.
I'm mainly fire/dirt/gravel roads (lots of dry dust), large puddles/small creek crossings, maybe a little wheelin' in the future, and lots of suburban road use.
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:34 PM   #11
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Thanks for the feedback. I already have had done the front axle shafts.
So, it looks like I need 5 of them.

Will all 5 (7 if I did axles) be the same exact U-joint?
See post #2 above.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:54 AM   #12
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Also.... Sometime the squeaking is the CV ball and socket joint....not just the U-joints. I have had that ball and socket joint bind and cause major problems....broken T-Case.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:26 PM   #13
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I have a 2006 LJ as a daily driver. When I first replaced the u-joints, I used greaseable all around. I thought they would last a long time, they're greaseable, right? Well, somewhat quickly some of the zerks would not let any grease go through them. The zerks were the needle point grease gun type.
They lasted for awhile, but not long enough in my mind based on not being able to get the grease into them.
I've replaced them with the Spicer sealed u-joints, no zerks. We'll see how long they last. I expect them to work better.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:37 PM   #14
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Spicer's sealed u-joints are stronger and more durable than their greasable counterparts.
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:40 AM   #15
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I had a greaseable 1310 fail with less than 20k miles. Have the sealed versions on their way.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:38 PM   #16
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Also.... Sometime the squeaking is the CV ball and socket joint....not just the U-joints. I have had that ball and socket joint bind and cause major problems....broken T-Case.
Would this be the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke or the Universal Joint Yoke?
Does it take 1 or 2 of these?
Should I order either the Strap or U-bolt style?
Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:51 PM   #17
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Ubolts would require you to drill out the holes of the yolk to 5/16. Not a big deal, the metal is pretty soft.
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:46 PM   #18
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Ubolts would require you to drill out the holes of the yolk to 5/16. Not a big deal, the metal is pretty soft.
Spicer or equivalent straps are the way to go. The strength of a pair of u-bolts is simply of no benefit in that location, it's the yoke that provides all of the required strength. Plus it's way too easy to overtighten u-bolts which damages the bearing caps and bearings inside.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:22 AM   #19
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I don't intend to hijack this thread but i think that sealed Moog u joints are the best. Greasable u joints are cross drilled and inherently weaker. There is an argument that people want an easy to change weak link so they use greasable drive shaft u joints, This is a bad idea as the u joint may fail at high speed and then you have a shaft flailing around at high rpm.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:11 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the info.
which yoke do I order? How many?
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:20 PM   #21
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Spicer or equivalent straps are the way to go. The strength of a pair of u-bolts is simply of no benefit in that location, it's the yoke that provides all of the required strength. Plus it's way too easy to overtighten u-bolts which damages the bearing caps and bearings inside.
The main purpose of converting to Ubolts or an equivalent design is to avoid breaking a strap bolt off in the Yolk. For a Daily Driver, sure, it's unnecessary. Good condition straps, properly torqued bolts with thread locker are certainly sufficient. Straps in poor condition, however, can create gaps in the clamping surface with the Ujoint Cap and cause the caps to spin loose and grenade the driveshaft. The weakest bit of the design is of course the clamping head of the tiny 5/16 bolts, which is a silly failure to ruin your day. You better have some quality drill bits on hand to cut through that bolt. Ubolts are of great benefit to some, especially those who are not trying to end up with this situation in the middle of the woods.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:34 PM   #22
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The bolts that hold the straps on are under very little stress which is why they are not larger than they are. They're only going to break or have issues when the installer is clueless about how how things really work there. Few understand their true role and just how little stress they and the straps see. They see far more stress from a clueless installer who overtightens them because he doesn't understand how they work and how small the load is against them. Like is so well illustrated by your photo, those bolts were sheared by a dumbass who overtightened them. It takes very little to hold the bearing cap down in the yoke which is where the strength to hold them comes from. Call a driveshaft guru like Tom Wood or Reel if you are skeptical about what I have said here.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:54 PM   #23
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Sorry for the redundant question......

Would this be the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke or the Universal Joint Yoke?
Does it take 1 or 2 of these?
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:44 PM   #24
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Sorry for the redundant question......

Would this be the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke or the Universal Joint Yoke?
Does it take 1 or 2 of these?
Assuming that you are asking about the front driveshaft CV joint, you need one centering yoke. The centering yoke is available in a greasable or non-greasable option.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c45...aft_parts.html
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:17 PM   #25
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...They're only going to break or have issues when the installer is clueless about how how things really work there...

Or if they meet a rock and shear off. I agree with the angle (more people will hurt things because they over tighten the u-bolt than will shear off the head on a rock), but the straps leave the bolt head more exposed than the u-joint. The u-bolt style puts the head/nut side more out of harms way than the strap style, and it's nearly impossible to shear the u part of the u-bolt.
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:51 PM   #26
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Or if they meet a rock and shear off. I agree with the angle (more people will hurt things because they over tighten the u-bolt than will shear off the head on a rock), but the straps leave the bolt head more exposed than the u-joint. The u-bolt style puts the head/nut side more out of harms way than the strap style, and it's nearly impossible to shear the u part of the u-bolt.
My TJ spends 99%+ of its offroad time on big rocks, up to and including big trails like Sledgehammer in JV, Devil's Canyon, and a bunch of others. Very tough rock crawling at times. First time in JV 2003. Never a problem with the u-joint straps or bolts. I've busted some stuff over the past 23 years rock crawling with my TJ but never a u-joint strap or one of those small strap bolts. I dunno maybe I'm doing something wrong.
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:20 PM   #27
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Assuming that you are asking about the front driveshaft CV joint, you need one centering yoke. The centering yoke is available in a greasable or non-greasable option.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c45...aft_parts.html
I am going to be replacing all 5 of the u-joints (greaseless) that are associated with the drive shafts. The other 2 u-joints in the front axles have already been replaced a couple of months ago.

Since I will have the skid plate off and have the drive shafts removed.....I want to replace these 5 matching U-joints.

What I am asking is: Should I also replace the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke and/or the Universal Joint Yoke at this time? IF so....which one do I replace (both?) and how many?

I guess I am confused as I don't see anything labeled "Centering Yoke" on the RockAuto website.....they list a D.S.P.Y. and a U.J.Y.

or,

should I just order from Denny's Driveline:
(1) Centering yoke (Strap style) #211544X @ $57.95/ea/
(5) U-joints #5-1310X @ $15.55/ea
?????
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:39 PM   #28
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Should I also replace the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke and/or the Universal Joint Yoke at this time? IF so....which one do I replace (both?) and how many?
Don't replace any yoke other than the centering yoke unless you have a bona fide reason to replace it. The last thing you want to do is remove a pinion yoke for no good reason.

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I guess I am confused as I don't see anything labeled "Centering Yoke" on the RockAuto website.....they list a D.S.P.Y. and a U.J.Y.
It appears that Rockauto does not offer the centering yoke.

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should I just order from Denny's Driveline:
(1) Centering yoke (Strap style) #211544X @ $57.95/ea/
(5) U-joints #5-1310X @ $15.55/ea
?????
Denny's does offer free shipping for orders over $99.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:40 AM   #29
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For the front shaft, ONLY use NON-greasable u-joints and a NON-greaseable centering yoke for the transfer case end.

I didn't see this mentioned anywhere. That would be 2 u-joints and the centering yoke as NON-greaseable parts. You cannot get a grease gun up in there to grease them without a lot of stress and bloody knuckles, and removing the shaft to do it is not a very good option either. This will lead to neglect, and they will fail prematurely depending on the type of wheeling you do. The rubber dust/mud shield for the centering yoke cracks over time and usually requires to be ordered. Most driveline shops say this part is not required. I'm personally on the fence on it's requirement. OEM added for a reason - but maybe it's overkill.

For all the other u-joints, you could use either greaseable or non-greaseable. NON-greaseable would be preferred by most including myself. IMHO, I prefer Spicer but Moog seem to just as good and i have used them when Spicer was not in stock.
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:13 AM   #30
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I don't intend to hijack this thread but i think that sealed Moog u joints are the best. Greasable u joints are cross drilled and inherently weaker. There is an argument that people want an easy to change weak link so they use greasable drive shaft u joints, This is a bad idea as the u joint may fail at high speed and then you have a shaft flailing around at high rpm.
You are correct as far as the greasable vs. sealed due to the grease passage drilling.

However, Moog fails at approximately 150k fatigue cycles in the 1310 size if I remember correctly. The Spicer SPL non-greasables go over a million fatigue cycles. It's not even close. PM me if you don't believe me and I can try to send you a PDF with the testing data. I do driveline for a living these days.

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