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Old 01-13-2017, 11:39 AM
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Broken Motor Mount Bolt at Frame

Good afternoon all. While replacing all my mounts, I wound up breaking off the passenger side motor mount bolt that is welded to the frame. I had soaked the bolts for 2 days with PB blaster, but that thing would barely budge. I got it a lil out by strong arming it, then it broke. Then using an extractor, it broke again lol. We used a steel rod, and a big hammer, and knocked it out freeing the spot welds the bolt had. We used a spare bolt, nut and locking washer as a bandaid.

So heres my question, whats a good fix? Has this happened to anyone else? I could not find any search results for this.

My "guess" is to get a beefier lock nut and lock bolt. I do not know what size or quality to get though.

Needless to say, I did not do the driver's side mount yet in fear of having the same thing happen. So I guess I have another question lol, how should I be removing the nut that goes on that bolt?

This will prolly also affect a motor mount lift in the future if I decide to do one Im guessing. Im also now worried about bolts breaking when I do a suspension replacement.

Any suggestions guys and gals? All appreciated. My main concern is the bandaid.

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Old 01-13-2017, 12:26 PM   #2
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I'm very used to not removing bolts on my Jeep without having replacements handy. The environment up here is harsh. It's not a big deal that came out. Dealing with similar things in the past I would just weld a new nut to the underside of the perch and put a new bolt in (if you have access to a welder). If not, good quality hardware and either a locking nut (not nylock) or lock washer perhaps. The issue that may exist there is potential for the vibration from the engine to loosen the hardware.You should be fine with either a grade 8 SAE bolt or 8.8 metric. Whatever size seems to work for your needs. Go as big as the hole allows.

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Old 01-13-2017, 01:56 PM   #3
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You should be fine with either a grade 8 SAE bolt or 10.9 metric.
Just correcting a small typo above to be clear - SAE Grade 8 is roughly the same as Metric Class 10.9, SAE Grade 5 is about Metric Class 8.8
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:02 PM   #4
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Just correcting a small typo above to be clear - SAE Grade 8 is roughly the same as Metric Class 10.9, SAE Grade 5 is about Metric Class 8.8
Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:50 PM
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"Go as big as the hole allows" lol, thats what she said

Thanks Czer and Biff!

I dont have access to a welder unless I took it somewhere, so maybe I'll stick with getting some better bolts and nuts as mentioned. Man its in a tight spot underneath there. Should of seen the look on my face when it broke off lol
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:02 PM   #6
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"Go as big as the hole allows" lol, thats what she said

Thanks Czer and Biff!

I dont have access to a welder unless I took it somewhere, so maybe I'll stick with getting some better bolts and nuts as mentioned. Man its in a tight spot underneath there. Should of seen the look on my face when it broke off lol
Probably the same look when I broke a rear upper shock mount bolt...hateful spot that is.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:18 PM
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Probably the same look when I broke a rear upper shock mount bolt...hateful spot that is.
That is EXACTLY what my first thought was after it broke, "oh, so this is the bolt breaking people replacing their shocks mentioned". Makes me leary about doing the suspension myself.

I was using PB Blaster, couldnt find Kroil locally. Think I'll order some and soak them bolts SEVERAL times, and then pray before doing any suspension work lol.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:01 PM
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Wont believe this, so the driver side is different set-up if no one knows. Its a bolt that comes out of the top of the frame, and not removing a nut. I guess because of the way the engine torques form one side to the other. Anyway, I got it out all fine. Got the new part in there, couple bolts on, and while putting on the nut from underneath, the bolt on the new mount came right off! Was a very poor weld. Glad it didnt happen going down the road. I just put the old mount back on til a replacement arrives.

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