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Old 03-30-2016, 08:31 PM
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Clearance problems. Help!

Ok looking for some input on my clearance issue. I have a stock TJ. No lift. I have around 4 inches clearance. I recently installed a SRT stinger front bumper and lost 1.5 inches clearance between front tires and stock fenders. Today I added a winch and lost another inch of clearance due to the weight of the winch bumper combo. So now I have 4 inch clearance in the back and only 1.5 inches in the front. I'm looking for two solutions today. One short term CHEAP for a mudding trip next month and second, a long term solution. I will be happy just to get the front close to stock 4 inches again. So what's the cheapest short term solution (without taking fenders off) ? Would 2 inch taller than stock coil springs be the permanent solution or is there a cheaper route? Appreciate your thoughts and input. Thanks.

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Old 03-30-2016, 08:42 PM   #2
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Install lift pucks.

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Old 03-30-2016, 09:07 PM
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Okay so looking at 1 3/4 inch coil spacers....So the instructions say: . If doing a 2 3⁄4” lift, remove the factory isolators and put 2 of the 1 3⁄4” spacers on one side.

So that means I can take out the stock isolators and put two of these on one side and two on the other side and that will give me 2 3/4 inch lift in the front which should get it back to stock. .? So it's not really a lift but putting it back where it should be. Right? Is my thinking correct on this?
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:22 PM   #4
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Install lift pucks.
even better, install springs of the proper rate and length.

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Is my thinking correct on this?
I'd grab some V8 ZJ springs from the junkyard or RockAuto. Same amount of work with better results.
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Old 04-02-2016, 05:55 PM   #5
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I put rubicon springs on my 99 sport. Rides just the slightest bit rougher but helped with the sag from my bumper and winch. Also added about an inch of lift
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Old 04-02-2016, 06:03 PM   #6
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I put rubicon springs on my 99 sport. Rides just the slightest bit rougher but helped with the sag from my bumper and winch. Also added about an inch of lift
Rubicon springs are no different than the springs that come on the Sahara, Sport, etc. The only reason they might make a difference is if the springs they replaced had sagged or they were a lower spring rate like for a lighter model TJ like an SE.
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:42 AM   #7
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Rubicon springs are no different than the springs that come on the Sahara, Sport, etc. The only reason they might make a difference is if the springs they replaced had sagged or they were a lower spring rate like for a lighter model TJ like an SE.
Thanks for the clarification, I have seen both sides and never found a definitive answer. Either way, I got them for like $30 from a guy who had sold his Rubi and had them laying around in his garage. They were brand new replacement ones he bought and never put in. Much stiffer and less sag than my original ones from 1999.
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Old 04-03-2016, 12:37 PM   #8
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Thanks for the clarification, I have seen both sides and never found a definitive answer. Either way, I got them for like $30 from a guy who had sold his Rubi and had them laying around in his garage. They were brand new replacement ones he bought and never put in. Much stiffer and less sag than my original ones from 1999.
Sounds like new parts are better than worn out parts. New factory coils still won't hold the weight of bumpers and winches without losing height. If they did, a stock TJ would ride like an empty dump truck.
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Old 04-03-2016, 12:56 PM   #9
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Sounds like new parts are better than worn out parts. New factory coils still won't hold the weight of bumpers and winches without losing height. If they did, a stock TJ would ride like an empty dump truck.
Haha yes I completely completely agree, new parts are very nice. When I put the winch on it did sag a little bit but the stance is WAY better than it was. But that's now where the new tube fenders came in, more clearance and got rid of my old rotting ones..got two birds stoned at once
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:00 PM   #10
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Haha yes I completely completely agree, new parts are very nice. When I put the winch on it did sag a little bit but the stance is WAY better than it was. But that's now where the new tube fenders came in, more clearance and got rid of my old rotting ones..got two birds stoned at once
How much clearance did the tube fenders gain you over the factory steel fenders? Notice that I didn't say anything about the flexible flares.
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:14 PM   #11
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How much clearance did the tube fenders gain you over the factory steel fenders? Notice that I didn't say anything about the flexible flares.
I didn't measure an exact amount, probably should have. As an estimate, I'd say I gained about 3" between the tire and stock flares. I used to rub all the time offroad with the sway bar disconnected. Now I most likely rub at full flex but haven't gotten out on the trails really to see for myself yet, only had them for about 3 months. But if I do, I can't tell when driving. Unlike when I used to rub, the flares would make a loud noise and my tires would really grab the flares and almost pull them off if I was turning the wheel. These are the fenders I went with: http://www.amazon.com/E-Autogrilles-...ilpage_o06_s00

What flexible flares do you have?
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:26 PM   #12
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What flexible flares do you have?
Factory flares. Granted, they are a touch wider than regular TJ factory flares. My tires go right up to the factory steel fenders before the bump stops hit. The flares move out of the way, if needed.

This is 4" of up travel and 5" down with 33's on 3.25 of total lift with a slightly modified front Old Man Emu N66 front shock.


Unless you have larger tires that hit the back side of the fender well, the only real way to gain clearance with new fenders is to cut and raise the hoodline. Then you can achieve the 3" you think you gained. Metalcloaks do this halfway. Otherwise you are solving an aesthetic issue.

Getting back to the OP, the best way to regain the factory levels of suspension travel after adding weight is to put in coils that will support the stuff you add.
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:36 PM   #13
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Factory flares, granted, they are a touch wider than regular TJ factory flares. My tires go right up to the factory steel fenders before the bump stops hit. The flares move out of the way, if needed.

Unless you have larger tires that hit the back side of the fender well, the only real way to gain clearance with new fenders is to cut and raise the hoodline. Then you can achieve the 3" you think you gained.
I did not do hi-lines, not a huge fan of the look..or the price haha. But yes, from the steel of the stock fenders I didn't gain much, if any (really the only difference is between the 90* lip the stock steel fender has where the flares mount and the diameter of the tubing on the new fenders). But with the flares gone I did gain some, just between the tires and when they'd begin to touch the flares. If I'd push it on the RTI ramp, the flares would bend and I could get a little more. But I have 12.5 wide tires and didn't have the wider rubicon flares, yours look like 10.5 wide with the wider flares as you said.
However, I'm sure this is a debate for another thread, rather than hijacking the poor OP's question about his coil springs sagging.
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:42 PM   #14
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11.2" wide.

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...
However, I'm sure this is a debate for another thread, rather than hijacking the poor OP's question about his coil springs sagging.
Fair enough. The important part is that, like coil spring rates and lengths, it is beneficial to understand what and where one measures.
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:48 PM   #15
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11.2" wide.

Fair enough. The important part is that, like coil spring rates and lengths, it is beneficial to understand what and where one measures.
I completely agree. For some reason every time I've done something to effect the statistics of my Jeep (lift, tires, fenders, etc.) I've just forgotten to take out the tape measure and get objective numbers. Will definitely remember for the future. Thank you. Cheers and happy Jeepin!

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