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Old 11-15-2015, 03:27 PM
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Clutch Swap

2005 4.0 lt Manual Jeep wrangler Sport

I am planning on swapping the clutch in the next few weeks ...... after searching the forums, searching youtube ....... it seems that the usual way is to drop the transmission to get to it.

It just seems to me to be an awful lot of work removing all the transmission bits and working under the car ...... I'm wondering if anybody has any views on lifting the engine out to do the clutch ? ......

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Old 11-15-2015, 03:59 PM   #2
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Trust me, unbolting the transmission is a LOT easier and faster than lifting the engine out. No shop would pull the engine just to replace the clutch.

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Old 11-15-2015, 04:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamemmenracing View Post
2005 4.0 lt Manual Jeep wrangler Sport

I am planning on swapping the clutch in the next few weeks ...... after searching the forums, searching youtube ....... it seems that the usual way is to drop the transmission to get to it.

It just seems to me to be an awful lot of work removing all the transmission bits and working under the car ...... I'm wondering if anybody has any views on lifting the engine out to do the clutch ? ......
It would be a ton more work to pull the engine than to pull the transmission. Even if you did pull the engine, you would still be working underneath to pull all the bolts between bell housing and transmission, or if you left the transmission attached and pulled them out together, you would still be working underneath to disconnect everything else, then still have to split them once out.

Pulling the transmission is really not that tough if you use the proper tools and have some help. We have done several, and can generally change out a clutch and have the Jeep on the road in about 4 to 6 hours.

Here's a video on pulling the transmission that may help (if it's not one you've already seen).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIXhdAG3qaE
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:02 PM
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That's why I was asking......... someone who has done it before
If the easier way is a transmission drop, that's what I will do....
Video was a great help

all I need now is a tranny jack

Thanks ......
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by teamemmenracing View Post
That's why I was asking......... someone who has done it before
If the easier way is a transmission drop, that's what I will do....
Video was a great help

all I need now is a tranny jack

Thanks ......
Also it's a heck of a lot easier to align the trans to the engine VS trying to align the engine to the trans.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:01 AM   #6
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Do yourself a favor, especially if your frame is showing any signs of rust, check all of your belly plate bolts prior to starting this job. Take each bolt out one at a time to ensure you can remove all 6. Mine either would not budge or spun and I had to grind down the bolt heads and drill through them to get the plate to drop. If you check this before hand you can be working on it 1 bolt at a time so that you aren't in a time crunch to remove all the bolts and replace the clutch. I spent about a day grinding those bolt heads and it cost me an extra day of renting a tranny jack.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:10 PM
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Do yourself a favor, especially if your frame is showing any signs of rust, check all of your belly plate bolts prior to starting this job. Take each bolt out one at a time to ensure you can remove all 6. Mine either would not budge or spun and I had to grind down the bolt heads and drill through them to get the plate to drop. If you check this before hand you can be working on it 1 bolt at a time so that you aren't in a time crunch to remove all the bolts and replace the clutch. I spent about a day grinding those bolt heads and it cost me an extra day of renting a tranny jack.
lol ..... fortunately, I had the pan off last week ...... installing anew exhaust system lol

Just bought a transmission jack ......... all set to go, just need the weather to let up because I'm doing it outside
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:46 PM   #8
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lol ..... fortunately, I had the pan off last week ...... installing anew exhaust system lol

Just bought a transmission jack ......... all set to go, just need the weather to let up because I'm doing it outside
Does the weather let up there, it didn't for me.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:53 PM
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Does the weather let up there, it didn't for me.

normal weather here is what we call ....... shite
right now we have had 8 days of nonstop heavy rain ......
I can do cold ok, but water running down my neck when I'm on my back sucks lol
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:00 PM   #10
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Before I forget, you'll need a couple special sockets to get the transmission and transfer case unbolted. You'll need an E-12 socket for one of the top transmission mounting bolts that hold it to the engine, and an E-10 socket for one of the top transfer case bolts, at least you will if you unbolt the transfer case from the transmission. These E-10 and E-12 sockets fit onto 'extended torx' bolt heads which have a male torx head instead of a normal hex bolt head.

They look like this...

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Old 11-17-2015, 03:36 PM
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I've got a full set of them ......
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:42 PM
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Happiness is a new ..............

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Old 11-19-2015, 04:26 PM   #13
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I have one of those jacks, somewhere. It really came in handy during a clutch change on a 2005 Subaru WRX STI (heavy 6 speed).
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:06 PM   #14
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First it is way easier to pull tranny plus it is often damn near impossible to line up engine to attach tranny and even for a new engine you end up removing tranny and bolting both together outside of vehicle

Next I hope that 6 SPd is in good shape

When installing tranny you have to wiggle it home all the way no bolts pulling it together last inch or 1/2 inch or you risk real damage

A nice trick is get longer bolts same pitch as tranny to engine bolts and cut off hex head and round off cut end with a grinder then grind a slot for a big screwdriver in each cut end

These become alignment pins to support tranny as you slide it home against engine one screwed in on each side

Then once in all the way put in a couple other bolts and remove the pins with a screwdriver and put correct bolts on
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:05 PM   #15
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You don't really need them special sockets 12 point will do the job and just a idea replace them with regular grade 8 bolts a lot better in long run
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:15 PM   #16
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Looked up receipt purchased 12/22/12 so not quite 3 years plain duralast same one currently shown in stock at same store
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:02 AM
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....... well finally got around to swapping the clutch .......

used the advice I got on here, used my new tranny jack - job was really easy and was done in about 6 hrs which included stopping for a few breaks lolol ..........

fitted a Centerforce unit ............

most interesting bit is that now peddle pressure required is about half what it was before ........
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:20 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by teamemmenracing View Post
....... well finally got around to swapping the clutch .......

used the advice I got on here, used my new tranny jack - job was really easy and was done in about 6 hrs which included stopping for a few breaks lolol ..........

fitted a Centerforce unit ............

most interesting bit is that now peddle pressure required is about half what it was before ........
Glad it all worked out well, say hello to Nessie for me.
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:51 AM   #19
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I also have the manual 5sp with 76000, mi and was wondering how many miles do have on your clutch plate?
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:02 PM   #20
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Your clutch should still be in great condition at only 76k miles. Out of precaution, I swapped my clutch at 162k miles but discovered it was still in very good condition even though it had been smoked many times over the years while rock crawling. It's not unusual for the factory clutch to make it past 200k miles.
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:15 PM   #21
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Thank you Jerry, and I apologize for interrupting the thread.

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