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Old 03-18-2015, 01:57 PM
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deconstructing a lift questions

Decided to make a thread for all the odds and ends questions I have running through my brain that have been a little tough to search for.

Right now I have a 4" lift installed form the previous owner on my Jeep. It is procomp ES9000 shocks, not sure what kind of springs (they are grey) along with a relocated front factory track bar, a relocation bracket on the back track bar (factory) and a TC drop.

Apparently these shocks don't have much more than 5-10k miles on them, but are about 8 years old...well I have now just replaced the second shock due to leakage and I can see I also have a rear shock peeing now as well...

I have to say I am not the most impressed with the Procomp shocks at this point, so I was thinking of just buying 4 new ones.

I was also thinking that if I have to buy 4 new ones, should I go with 4" shocks or 3.5" shocks and bring the rig down .5" and eliminate a few issues?

Here is what is going through my mind and if anyone has any input on anything I would appreciate it:

1) If I go to a 3.5" shock, I am assuming I would need to change the springs as well? I don't think I would need to change out anything else?

2) I don't really want to run an SYE and new driveshaft if I dont have to, which is why I am thinking of moving down to a 3.5" lift from my 4" to correct a few problems...however, I do want to spend the money to go either Ford 8.8 or Dana 44 out back...will I be forced to get an SYE/Driveshaft for that? I have all 4 metalcloak control arms that will be installed shortly out back...


The overall goal at this point is to build a reliable jeep capable of turning 35's that I don't need to worry about breaking, but not overkilling the build either. Most of the stuff here - well up north, is trails / mud and not really rock crawling...

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Old 03-18-2015, 02:32 PM   #2
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changing shocks won't adjust ride height, that's what the springs do. So to answer question 1, yes you'll have to change the springs. You must run proper shocks for the springs you have to avoid bottoming the shocks before hitting the bump stops.

2 - a 3.5" is still pushing it. If you switch to a D44 or 8.8 you'll definitely need a new driveshaft (possibly just shortening with the D44) but it's best to run the SYE.

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Old 03-18-2015, 02:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Letzride View Post
The overall goal at this point is to build a reliable jeep capable of turning 35's that I don't need to worry about breaking, but not overkilling the build either. Most of the stuff here - well up north, is trails / mud and not really rock crawling...
You're very far from being able to reliably run 35" tires. Your best bet is to do more research.
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Letzride View Post
The overall goal at this point is to build a reliable jeep capable of turning 35's that I don't need to worry about breaking, but not overkilling the build either. Most of the stuff here - well up north, is trails / mud and not really rock crawling...
You're very far from being able to reliably run 35" tires. Your best bet is to do more research.
I'm aware of what needs to be done- and 35's wont happen for atleast 2 years as I build it to spec... Simply mentioning what my end goal is so everyone can best weigh in
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:46 PM   #5
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If it were me, I'd probably just change the shocks out for now, then start working on building or obtaining the 8.8 for when you want to go to 35's

From what I've read, you don't "need" to do an SYE for the 8.8, but it's recommended to.

What exactly are the issues that you're having that you would want to go down in spring height? I'm guessing drive line vibes?
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by reb6672 View Post
If it were me, I'd probably just change the shocks out for now, then start working on building or obtaining the 8.8 for when you want to go to 35's

From what I've read, you don't "need" to do an SYE for the 8.8, but it's recommended to.

What exactly are the issues that you're having that you would want to go down in spring height? I'm guessing drive line vibes?
I have driveline vibes, Im thinking I could probably correct most of them with the control arms waiting to go in.

Castor is way off of the front, I really need 4 control arms, or 2 at the very least to fix what is going on up there.

I don't know- I don't really want to go down, but I don't want all these headaches either from an unproperly spec'd lift.

The other thing that is in the back of my mind is the fact that I am also adding weight to the vehicle with the winch, the tube fenders probably add some weight that will be going on, and sooner or later a stinger up front... So I am almost wondering if my 4" lift will make its own way down into a 3.5" one,,,
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:58 PM   #7
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There are others on here who are much more knowledgeable than I am especially with correcting caster and installing control arms to help with the pinion angle.

I think I would consider the SYE as the best option to start with...to fix the vibes and for the road to 35's. I don't think it's overbuilding at all. From what I read it's the best and correct way to deal with drive line vibrations. When you do eventually go for the bigger axle, you'll have piece of mind that it's already done too.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:00 PM   #8
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An SYE is in my future too. I don't have any drive line vibes right now, but I do have a TC drop in place, and I also would eventually like to go to an 8.8. I'm starting to hear a clutch chirp, so I'm preparing to have to change that sooner or later. I figure when I have everything apart that would be the best time for me to tackle the SYE.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:04 PM
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See I don't want to do this twice though...I feel like if I did an SYE and driveshaft now, I may have to change the length when I get the 8.8 in.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:37 PM   #10
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Ahh..I see exactly what you're taking about now. In my mind I was almost thinking it would be identical like a 44 swap. That's a good point..one that I need to take into consideration for too. Hopefully someone can offer a little more insight.

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