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Old 03-21-2015, 10:37 AM
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Do I need a DPA with a Track bar drop?

I bought the Jeep with a 6" lift. It has hellabad bumpsteer and I'm trying to fix it. From my crappy pic, you can see my Tb and Drag link aren't parallel. From my reading posts, I've gathered I need to correct this by lowering my TB at the top. Do I need to also add a drop pitman arm, or would that be counter productive? Kinda noobie.

Also, I'm leaking around the pitman arm. Could that be stress from my steering components being outa whack?

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Old 03-21-2015, 10:43 AM   #2
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You need to draw a line from where each end of the track bar and drag link mount. Since the track bar is bent, simply looking at it won't tell you much.

Generally dropped pitman and track bar adapters are avoided, but with 6" lift who knows.

Post exactly what you have for suspension setup and guys here may be able to help.

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Old 03-21-2015, 10:44 AM   #3
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You already have a dropped pitman arm...that is your problem. Get an OEM pitman arm and leave your track bar in the stock location.
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:55 AM
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One issue I've ran into is that it's an old suspension lift with no identifying numbers. I also didn't know I already had a dpa, that's the noob in my blood. Thanks for the help thus far! I'll find an OEM pitman today and install.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:14 AM   #5
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If you get rid of the drop components you may also need to lower your lift . After a certain height the drop pitman and drop track bar mount may be some what useful if the actual pivot points of the drag link end and the track bar pivot point match. I personally would take a good look at it and decide if you really need 6" of lift . That's an awful lot of lift an not have issues.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:22 AM
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That's actually my next project after the bumpsteer. I only want 4" max. I've not looked into it yet, but is it an easy task?
I'll definitely look into that before continuing the dpa issue and make sure I'm not creating more problems than helping.
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:00 PM   #7
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That's actually my next project after the bumpsteer. I only want 4" max. I've not looked into it yet, but is it an easy task?
I'll definitely look into that before continuing the dpa issue and make sure I'm not creating more problems than helping.
Get rid of the dpa, you don't need it for either a 4" or 6" lift. The only thing it will do is create bump steer. You can tell by the angles in the picture that your track bar appears to be in the stock location.

I suggest you measure your front springs to confirm what size lift you actually have. Is there an SYE installed, dopped transfer case skid, or what?
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:09 PM   #8
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If both track bar and drop pitman are lowered equal amounts it will not create bump steer. Drop one without dropping the other will create bumpsteer.
The pic you have is hard to see what you have presently . But it looks like both are dropped presently just not the same amount .

Now that you mention your planning on lowering it to 4" then go OE pitman and a track bar that mounts directly to the OE mount .
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:15 PM
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I do have SYE, Trans drop, etc. I'm not sure of the dpa or tb. Ive measured and for sure have a 6" lift. Are you positive that I'll be OK w/o the dpa? I think I'll try the ome pitman first, and if I'm still having issues, take her down a few notches and go from there. I'll post some more, clearer photos later on today.
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:27 PM   #10
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I do have SYE, Trans drop, etc. I'm not sure of the dpa or tb. I think I'll try the ome pitman first, and if I'm still having issues, take her down a few notches and go from there. I'll post some more, clearer photos later on today.
Good plan. I think you will find it drives way better with a stock pitman arm (If everything else in the steering linkage is tight).

If you you take your 6" suspension lift to a 4" and already have an sye, you will be able to loose the transfer case drop which will maintain some center clearance.
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Old 03-22-2015, 01:07 PM
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Grabbed a few more photos. Ordered the pitman arm. Going to change out ALL the seals for the DL and TB. Maybe fix the leaky power steering. Anyone have suggestions on how to fix, or just go for the Durango swap?
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Old 03-22-2015, 02:54 PM   #12
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Grabbed a few more photos. Ordered the pitman arm. Going to change out ALL the seals for the DL and TB. Maybe fix the leaky power steering. Anyone have suggestions on how to fix, or just go for the Durango swap?
It appears from your pictures that you have an after market frame side track bar mount, although it doesn't appear to be dropped significantly from the stock location (at least nowhere near the drop of the pitman arm). If that were mine, I would order a Metalcloak or Currie adjustable track bar, get rid of the aftermarket mount, and install it to the factory mounts along with the stock pitman arm.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:36 PM
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Update.
I put the stock pitman arm on, aligned the wheels and put on some new seals.

Outcome.
The steering has made a drastic change, but for the better I'm not sure yet. Bumpsteer isn't quite as bad, but anything over 65mph and she gets squirrely beyond control. Before it was constant controlable bumpsteer, now I feel like she's about to careen off the highway with a small crack in the road. It's manageable. Still not sure how to completely fix this issue. But for now I'm not too concerned.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:57 PM   #14
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Update.
I put the stock pitman arm on, aligned the wheels and put on some new seals.

Outcome.
The steering has made a drastic change, but for the better I'm not sure yet. Bumpsteer isn't quite as bad, but anything over 65mph and she gets squirrely beyond control. Before it was constant controlable bumpsteer, now I feel like she's about to careen off the highway with a small crack in the road. It's manageable. Still not sure how to completely fix this issue. But for now I'm not too concerned.
caster problem. too much lift, yielding significantly decreased caster, combined with bad axle position.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:21 PM   #15
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you also toe'd your wheels in and need an alignment.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:55 PM   #16
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i hope you know that by removing your DPA you're putting more of a stress angle on the tie rod end, especially with that lift. get an over-the-knuckle steering conversion if you're worried about steering geometry, which you're suppose to with a 6" lift anyway. and if you haven't yet, check the steering stabilizer and make sure it cycles firmly. otherwise it's just as good as not having it on even for a stock jeep.

your track bar just needs to be lowered IMO, not the Drag Link. either that or find one that bends in a way that it becomes parallel with the drag link. i see nothing wrong with a DPA and Track Bar Drop Bracket if it works for my suspension setup.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:46 PM   #17
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i hope you know that by removing your DPA you're putting more of a stress angle on the tie rod end, especially with that lift. get an over-the-knuckle steering conversion if you're worried about steering geometry, which you're suppose to with a 6" lift anyway. and if you haven't yet, check the steering stabilizer and make sure it cycles firmly. otherwise it's just as good as not having it on even for a stock jeep.

your track bar just needs to be lowered IMO, not the Drag Link. either that or find one that bends in a way that it becomes parallel with the drag link. i see nothing wrong with a DPA and Track Bar Drop Bracket if it works for my suspension setup.
The bend of the track bar makes no difference. It's the angle of the two mounting points of each one that matters.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:24 PM   #18
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The bend of the track bar makes no difference. It's the angle of the two mounting points of each one that matters.
i have the pro comp track bar on mine that has a bend in it to clear the diff cover through articulation, but also continues downward away from the frame rail. combined with the drop bracket and DPA the lift kit came with, the steering linkage and track bar are at good angles.

so in other words, the track bar bolts have to be within a certain height from each other. i hear guys say to keep the track bar as flat as possible to keep proper geometry, which is why there's drop brackets for the frame side or taller ones for the axle side that you weld on.

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