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Old 08-26-2019, 09:32 AM
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Electric fan problems

The guy i bought my tj from did an electric fan conversion and it has worked great until yesterday. The fuse connected directly to the fan had the plastic on top melt onto the connection and caused the fan to not work therefore causing everything to overheat and the coolant to boil over. i am wondering if there is a way to better insulate the fuse so that the next one i put in doesn't melt from the heat? any other suggestions? thank you in advance!

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Old 08-26-2019, 09:35 AM   #2
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Post some pics of the setup.

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Old 08-26-2019, 09:39 AM
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Post some pics of the setup.
I will have pictures of it sent to me and i will post. I am not with it now.
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:46 AM   #4
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Maybe a more heavy duty fuse holder.

What gauge wire is used?

How many amps is the fuse?

Did any wire melt?

Did the fuse blow? Or the fan fail bc the fuse holder melted?

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Old 08-26-2019, 09:49 AM   #5
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remove the downgrade and upgrade back to OEM.

honestly, there are very few times an electric fan offers any benefit (deep water crossings) but that isnt enough to have less effective cooling in all other situations.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:00 AM   #6
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^
This.... stock fan for the win

Btw, I was in deep water yesterday... scary deep.... thought for sure I was gonna hydrolock my engine... not a single issue w the mechanical fan....
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:11 AM   #7
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As overheating can crack the head and the stock setup works well, unless there is some special reason like a engine swap why not go back to stock setup


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Old 08-26-2019, 10:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
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remove the downgrade and upgrade back to OEM.

honestly, there are very few times an electric fan offers any benefit (deep water crossings) but that isnt enough to have less effective cooling in all other situations.
X2, going back to the OE serpentine belt-driven fan would be an upgrade to your cooling system. Where the TJ is concerned, converting to an electric fan is a downgrade in terms of cooling and reliability.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:47 AM   #9
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Returning to stock may be a preferred set up in theory, but if the only issue you have with your current radiator and electric fan is a fuse holder - then fix that. It makes absolutely no sense to scrap the entire system over a melted fuse holder if you have no cooling issues when the fan is operating as it should.

Without a photo it is impossible to know for sure, but generally speaking all that should be required to remedy your particular issue is a heavy duty fuse holder with appropriately rated fuse wired in a location that is isolated and/or insulated from heat that can melt it. If, however, you are blowing fuses and melting wires due to a wiring issue or problem with the fan you will need to address that.

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Old 08-26-2019, 12:11 PM
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Here are a few pics of what I'm working with, it is a 30 amp fuse.
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1997 TJ, 4.0, 5 speed
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Aussie locker front
Smittybilt SRC Stinger Bumper
Smittybilt XRC 9500lb winch
Much more I'm forgetting...
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:13 PM
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How much and how easy would it be to go back to a stock setup?
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Aussie locker front
Smittybilt SRC Stinger Bumper
Smittybilt XRC 9500lb winch
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:23 PM   #12
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If it is getting hot enough to melt it is heat from excess current draw not external heat so insulation would make it worse


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Old 08-26-2019, 12:33 PM
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If it is getting hot enough to melt it is heat from excess current draw not external heat so insulation would make it worse


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would i need to just get a higher amp fuse that can handle the current?
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:45 PM   #14
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It looks like you have a fuse problem rather than a fuse holder problem.

You need to determine why that 30 amp fuse is melting. Putting in a higher amperage fuse is asking for a bigger problem. A 30 amp fuse should be sufficient for the typical electric fan and the fact that yours melted rather than just blew signals that something is wrong with the circuit or the fan itself that needs to be addressed.

Time to consult with an automotive electrician with the meters, probes and know-how to trace the problem to its source. Once found, your course of action will be clear whether to repair or if the better economic decision would be to return to stock.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:45 PM   #15
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No you need to figure why it is drawing excess current - probably an issue with the fan motor


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Old 08-26-2019, 01:51 PM   #16
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Swapping back would be really easy... new fan clutch, fan blade, fan shroud, a couple bolts.... less than 30 min and done
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Currently in the stable: .....97 tj 2.5 5 speed stock... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:31 PM   #17
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That holder and fuse look to be the standard Chinese made types that come with wiring kits and such. No telling what the amperage rating is really, and no telling what the melting point of the plastic is.

But more important, no telling what gauge that wiring is. Though it looks beefy, it might be thick insulation rather than more copper strands inside, which is another undesirable fact of cheap Chinese kit parts. In which case, you can experience excessive heat generation from voltage loss without exceeding the amperage limit of the fuse.

A nominal 30 amp, 12 volt circuit should be 12 gauge over the short runs you're doing, up to about 5'.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:05 PM
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That holder and fuse look to be the standard Chinese made types that come with wiring kits and such. No telling what the amperage rating is really, and no telling what the melting point of the plastic is.

But more important, no telling what gauge that wiring is. Though it looks beefy, it might be thick insulation rather than more copper strands inside, which is another undesirable fact of cheap Chinese kit parts. In which case, you can experience excessive heat generation from voltage loss without exceeding the amperage limit of the fuse.

A nominal 30 amp, 12 volt circuit should be 12 gauge over the short runs you're doing, up to about 5'.
if i just get a better fuse would that be better than having this chinese made one?
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:39 PM   #19
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if i just get a better fuse would that be better than having this chinese made one?
No. Exactly the opposite. You will just be masking the underlying problem and risking an electrical fire that could total your jeep.

You need to determine the cause for the melted fuse and fix that, not just install a different fuse.

If this is not something you know how to do there is no shame in having the issue diagnosed and repaired by a professional automotive electrician.
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:22 PM   #20
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Any idea what brand the electric fan is?

Any pics of it?

Might help determine amp draw.

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Old 08-27-2019, 04:21 PM   #21
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If you have a 2.5 then the electric fan is an option...squeeze out may 5 HP is a good trade for a little more heat.
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:31 PM   #22
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An electric fan does NOT give you more horsepower

It takes hp to move air and converting energy from mechanical to electrical to chemical (battery) and back to electrical and back to mechanical again is ANYTHING but efficient....
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:19 AM   #23
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To melt a fuse and holder like that, it is drawing way too much amperage for the installed wiring, which leads to a possible bad fan motor, corroded wiring, or bad connections. I would put money on a bad fan motor.

If you're still driving it like that I hope you have full coverage insurance and a charged cell phone to call the fire department.

I personally would scrap the electric fan and go back to OEM stock that would cost around $100 to do with less headaches in the long run. You'll need a fan, fan clutch, and shroud.
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:46 AM   #24
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I had similar experience, nothing melted though.
Replaced the fan on my Jeep Liberty with one from Autozone (china) and noticed that my wire harness and connector are getting hot to touch when fan is on. Returned, bought one OEM from scrap yard tested at full speed wires were just slightly warm. It could be that non oem electric motors are drawing more current and stock wires weren't enough.
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:03 AM   #25
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When a motor slows it draws more current


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Old 08-28-2019, 10:10 AM   #26
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Any hot rodder knows there is a small gain in HP by switching to electric. There is a reason most all new cars have electric fans too. When installed correctly they are far more efficient and provide better cooling. The first choice in cooling is the mech fan...second you can move up to a flex fan which that too is better then the mech fan..and finally an electric fan. Most high HP motors (Hotrods) have electric fans because they are trying to eek out any Hp they can manage. There are many You tube dyno tests showing the gains made by just adding an electric fan. More HP is robbed by a mech fan then by an alternator suppling power to a battery. Gains of anywhere from 5 to 25 hp are shown on dynos. But even a 5 hp gain on a 2.5 motor that is grossly underpowered is helpful, and I'll take it. Plus you'll have less wear and tear on your water pump..
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:19 AM   #27
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You guys are talking past each other
For the same amount of power supplied to fan an electric fan draws more total off crank due to less than perfect efficiency power losses converting crank energy to battery energy then concerting the electrical energy back to mechanical for fan shaft

However as the power is stored in battery at an instant of acceleration the electric can sap less from crank than the mechanical because
Mechanical turns with engine while electric may not even be spinning and even if it is it can use battery previously stored energy and does not accelerate as engine rpm rises


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Old 08-28-2019, 12:17 PM   #28
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Sure for a quick dyno pull, or a quater mile pass you can gain 'power' by not cooling the engine properly for a short time but then the clutch fan is also disengaged when the engine doesn't need to be cooled...

Btw, ever notice the huge 110v fans they put in front of a car while making a dyno pull?.... there's a reason
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:43 AM   #29
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Btw, ever notice the huge 110v fans they put in front of a car while making a dyno pull?.... there's a reason

The reason for the huge fans in front of the dyno is because no matter what fan you have it does not move enough air to cool the motor at the high rpms they go to. Normally at those revs the car is moving and taking in air. If you sit in a parking lot and rev the motor to those rpms over and over it will over heat. They use them on mechanical fans too,,,
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Old 08-29-2019, 12:26 PM   #30
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Normally at those revs the car is moving and taking in air. If you sit in a parking lot and rev the motor to those rpms over and over it will over heat. They use them on mechanical fans too,,,
what about slow speed rock crawling?

im not one to put too much stock into dyno numbers. run 10 tests and get different numbers each time. inflate the tires a bit and show more power. just too many ways to fudge the numbers

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