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Old 02-26-2011, 09:11 AM
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Question G2 axles

I'm new to the off road world, after a tour in Afghanistan it caught my interest, but i'm familiar with the automotive performance aspect of things. I was wanting to know if anyone uses, or has used any of the G2 direct bolt in axles for the TJ. I'm planning on replacing the stock 30 and 35 with something a little beefier like a 60 rear and 44 front, but I'm still debating on whether i want to build them or take the easy way out and just buy a direct bolt in but I'm concerned that it won't be worth the money, especially if I'll just have to pull it out after a few short off roading trips. I couldn't find any reviews or other competitors that offer these for the price. Any information that you could give me I would appreciate.

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Old 02-26-2011, 09:17 AM   #2
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I'm sure you won't be disappointed. There built to the gills.

If you got more money than time go for it.... but there are much cheaper options if you have the patients to look and do the work.

What size tires are you doing?
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:21 AM   #3
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Welcome. Few questions for you. What size tires do you plan to run. I have no info on g2 stuff. I know superior axle makes some good products however, though cost is a bit more. If your going to stay with tires smaller than 35's you might want to consider a ford 8.8 rear and keep the dana 30 upfront and just upgrade the shafts.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:02 PM
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See I'm planning on running 35s around town cause thats what it came with and 37s off road cause they will clear, that's why after reading up on it i don't even want to take the time to do a "super" dana 35 upgrade (sounds like a wast of time and money both), so I figured the full floating 60 in the back would be my best bet, but I've been looking at the 8.8s as well to try to keep from losing that 3/4 inch of ground clearance, and either a 44 up front or the possibility of switching out the 30 for a XJ HP30 which brings up another question about the 30, if I were to upgrade the 30 and keep it would it be better to go with a RCV style shaft or C-clip eliminator?
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:38 PM   #5
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I just put brand new G2 axles into my jeep and they bolted right up nicely. However keep in mind when you do any sort of axle swap like this you will also need a SYE and new drive shafts and plenty of other things that will nickel and dime you. I am ever so happy with my RJ60 rear and D40 front. But if you are only running 35's with part time wheeling you should go with a bolt in 8.8 off an explorer and go chromoly shafts all around this way you save money and install headaches.
Good luck!
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:18 AM   #6
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Go with 1 ton's. GM14 bolt rear and shave it. Dana 60 front. Won't have to worry about breaking things. Those are junk yard axles. What you would have spent on some G2's do the 14, 60, and a small block v-8. ;-).
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:37 AM   #7
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Shoot. Go with some portal axles from a Unimog

Or the Spider 9 axles! Sick!

Either way as long as you upgrade that rear to a Ford 8.8 or better, and reinforce the internals in it and in the front 30 they should take a good beating.

1 tons are always fun! Money is key.

Oh, and post all pictures
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:43 PM   #8
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The downside to the G2 front D60's is that they re-use the stock D30 knuckles and outter hubs. If you are going to upgrade to such a strong axle, upgrade the outters as well. Reid Racing knuckles.

Reid Racing, Inc - Powerglide transmission cases, Dana 44 & Dana 60 knuckles
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:44 AM   #9
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whitesandsjeep, i'm new to this site saw your post about the G2 dana 60 and 44. i was plannin on doing same axle swap and was wondering what " nickel and dime " stuff you were reffering too? i don't want to be caught off guard since these axles are killing my bank!..... i have a sye kit and a tomwoods drive shaft in the rear... front drive stock does it need to be upgraded too, length?.... any info helps thanks.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00krawler
whitesandsjeep, i'm new to this site saw your post about the G2 dana 60 and 44. i was plannin on doing same axle swap and was wondering what " nickel and dime " stuff you were reffering too? i don't want to be caught off guard since these axles are killing my bank!..... i have a sye kit and a tomwoods drive shaft in the rear... front drive stock does it need to be upgraded too, length?.... any info helps thanks.
You'll need new driveshafts most likely. The pinion yoke is going to be a different length most likely.
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:13 PM   #11
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G2 Axle Buyer Beware

I purchased a G2 Axle from 4WheelParts, who installed it along with new bearings and seals.
4WheelParts and G2 touts that these axles are made from high tensile strength 4340 Chrome Molly that is heat-treated twice to produce these heavy-duty axles that are up to 40% stronger!
Well guess what, someone along the line forgot to properly heat treat and QA this particular Axle. As you can see from the attached photograph, it looks like someone used a Lathe and machined a fairly deep groove in the axle bearing surface.
The axle bearing itself is in great shape, no heat marks, not frozen, and spines freely (see attached photograph).
Everything in the rear was brand-new! You can only imagine the amount of metal that was in all the gears and bearings.
Sadly enough, 4WheelParts turned a blind eye to the situation. Knowing they, 4wheelParts, were on a major campaign to peddle G2 Axles here lately, I would strongly recommend that anyone who has purchased these axles perform a periodic check to insure you donít run into the same situation.
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryH View Post
I purchased a G2 Axle from 4WheelParts, who installed it along with new bearings and seals.
4WheelParts and G2 touts that these axles are made from high tensile strength 4340 Chrome Molly that is heat-treated twice to produce these heavy-duty axles that are up to 40% stronger!
Well guess what, someone along the line forgot to properly heat treat and QA this particular Axle. As you can see from the attached photograph, it looks like someone used a Lathe and machined a fairly deep groove in the axle bearing surface.
The axle bearing itself is in great shape, no heat marks, not frozen, and spines freely (see attached photograph).
Everything in the rear was brand-new! You can only imagine the amount of metal that was in all the gears and bearings.
Sadly enough, 4WheelParts turned a blind eye to the situation. Knowing they, 4wheelParts, were on a major campaign to peddle G2 Axles here lately, I would strongly recommend that anyone who has purchased these axles perform a periodic check to insure you don’t run into the same situation.
Replace the cheap G2 axle shafts with Revolution gear axle shafts and move on. $500 for a quality set of shafts that you can install in a couple hours with hand tools.

I wouldn’t have expected quality from anything that 4WP sells. Could’ve had a Currie Rock Jock Dana 44 for a comparable price.
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:46 PM   #13
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Stick with 1541 shafts too since the bearing is riding directly on the shaft.
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