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Old 07-19-2019, 06:20 PM
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Heavy oil

Have a 4.0 engine with 188,000 miles on it. Runs great but has low oil pressure after warmed up. Question is, would it hurt to go with 15-40 rotella at next change? I'am in the very hot mohave desert of so. Cal. I have 10w30 in it now

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Old 07-20-2019, 01:22 AM   #2
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How low? They run 13 psi at idle and rise accordingly with engine rpms.

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Old 07-20-2019, 06:57 AM   #3
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Have a 4.0 engine with 188,000 miles on it. Runs great but has low oil pressure after warmed up. Question is, would it hurt to go with 15-40 rotella at next change? I'am in the very hot mohave desert of so. Cal. I have 10w30 in it now
YMMV of course but I have run 15-40 diesel-spec oil in every vehicle I've owned since the early '80s and never had any serious engine problems with any of them...not counting stuff that was worn out when I bought it, LOL. I'm told that it will clog up the cat if your engine is burning some oil but it hasn't happened to me so far. May cost a fraction of an MPG and cranks a little harder in the winter (shouldn't affect you) but I'll gladly pay that price for the protection it gives.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:44 AM   #4
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YMMV of course but I have run 15-40 diesel-spec oil in every vehicle I've owned since the early '80s and never had any serious engine problems with any of them...not counting stuff that was worn out when I bought it, LOL. I'm told that it will clog up the cat if your engine is burning some oil but it hasn't happened to me so far. May cost a fraction of an MPG and cranks a little harder in the winter (shouldn't affect you) but I'll gladly pay that price for the protection I think it gives.
Fixed that for accuracy.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:25 AM   #5
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Try 10W40 next oil change and see if it helps.

There is now Rotella motor oil formulated for gasoline engines.
Although I typically use Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend I might give it a try. Unfortunately it is currently only available in thinner viscosities such as 0W20, 5W20 and 5W30.
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Old 07-20-2019, 02:37 PM   #6
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Amsoil all the way

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Old 07-20-2019, 03:29 PM   #7
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Amsoil all the way
Avon, Mary Kay and Fuller Brushes too.

After all, if it sells only by multi-level marketing and never in stores it must be good.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:09 PM   #8
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IMO..At that miles, you could go to 10W-40 easily. Low oil pressure is probably more related to wear. Not a fan of running Diesel certified oil in Gas engines; Rotella did launch a Gas engine version recently.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bigdogdaddy1947 View Post
Have a 4.0 engine with 188,000 miles on it. Runs great but has low oil pressure after warmed up. Question is, would it hurt to go with 15-40 rotella at next change? I'am in the very hot mohave desert of so. Cal. I have 10w30 in it now
To answer your question... No. I don't think it would hurt your engine at all. However I would double check engine specs for oil pressure to verify it is out of spec. If your engine is running properly. I'd leave it be. If not, you could bump up the weight.

I don't think paying for a better brand of oil really matters if the car is just a DD. I hear that rotella is better on valve seats than mobile 1, etc. For me though its just hear say. I use a Zinc additive on all my oil changes personally. Unless you are racing, I don't think you would see the added benefits of the better oils such as AMSoil or Lucas. If you wheel in the desert that would be another story though.

My honest .02
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Old 07-21-2019, 03:23 AM   #10
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Fixed that for accuracy.
And you have owned how many gasoline engines since 1980? Your experience in this particular field -- practical experience, hands-on, nothing else counts -- is...??? Educate me.
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:15 AM   #11
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Rotella 15W40 is a great oil, and might help. In areas where the weather dips below 30F in the winter I would recommend 0w40 or 5W40 however.

A couple of questions come to mind:

What was the oil pressure?

How was it determined?

The factory dash oil pressure gauge is not good for determining oil pressure, you need to verify it with an accurate mechanical oil pressure gauge, if you haven't already done so. Get the oil pressure readings you're supposed to have when the oil is hot, usually after about 20-30 minutes of driving, and at the rpms specified in the shop manual. That is really the only way to know if you have a problem with low oil pressure. Bumping up a grade might help, take readings with the 15W40 as well should you go that route.

Another product that is good at raising oil pressure in older engines and has some added value is Schaeffer's #132. However if there is a real problem like bad bearings or a faulty oil pump, thicker oil or the additive is a temporary fix at best.
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Old 07-21-2019, 11:18 AM   #12
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And you have owned how many gasoline engines since 1980? Your experience in this particular field -- practical experience, hands-on, nothing else counts -- is...??? Educate me.
18 Jeeps and at least 50 cars. Can I get a copy of the data you've compiled in the book you wrote on this subject? If not...
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:40 PM   #13
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Avon, Mary Kay and Fuller Brushes too.



After all, if it sells only by multi-level marketing and never in stores it must be good.


I buy Amsoil at Napa
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Old 07-21-2019, 12:57 PM
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YMMV of course but I have run 15-40 diesel-spec oil in every vehicle I've owned since the early '80s and never had any serious engine problems with any of them...not counting stuff that was worn out when I bought it, LOL. I'm told that it will clog up the cat if your engine is burning some oil but it hasn't happened to me so far. May cost a fraction of an MPG and cranks a little harder in the winter (shouldn't affect you) but I'll gladly pay that price for the protection it gives.
think i'll use 5 qts rotella 15-40 and a quart of hy-per lube! so hot around here it should do the job
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:36 PM   #15
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think i'll use 5 qts rotella 15-40 and a quart of hy-per lube! so hot around here it should do the job
I'd skip the Hyper-Lube and use a 20w-50 then.
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:24 PM   #16
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I will just live this here don't want to start a new "oil viscosity" discussion.
IMO for hot climates, towing, offroading- "oil cap" +10+20 for hot viscosity.
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Old 07-21-2019, 05:11 PM   #17
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I will just live this here don't want to start a new "oil viscosity" discussion.
IMO for hot climates, towing, offroading- "oil cap" +10+20 for hot viscosity.
That looks like a visc chart from a 1970s GM manual. 5w-30 for temps less than 60 only. Now we're told it's too viscous for most cars, with 0w- and 5w-20 common, and -16 coming. Crazy.

But the 4.0 is an old design.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bigdogdaddy1947 View Post
Have a 4.0 engine with 188,000 miles on it. Runs great but has low oil pressure after warmed up. Question is, would it hurt to go with 15-40 rotella at next change? I'am in the very hot mohave desert of so. Cal. I have 10w30 in it now
Exactly what oil pressure at what rpms are you concerned with? You're getting a lot of advice without anyone knowing exactly what oil pressure you're considering too low.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:50 PM   #19
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That looks like a visc chart from a 1970s GM manual. 5w-30 for temps less than 60 only. Now we're told it's too viscous for most cars, with 0w- and 5w-20 common, and -16 coming. Crazy.

But the 4.0 is an old design.
Its probably from the 90s but I assure you nothing has really changed, this chart can be found in any OM prior to "one oil does all" madness.
5W30 is ok up to 100f, above excessive engine wear would occur.
0W is a good choice in Canada, In California for ex even 5W is excessive probably 10W is what is needed - no real winter, no freezing but we get the same "oil cap viscosity" as someone in Canada or Alaska.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:07 PM   #20
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Its probably from the 90s but I assure you nothing has really changed, this chart can be found in any OM prior to "one oil does all" madness.
5W30 is ok up to 100f, above excessive engine wear would occur.
0W is a good choice in Canada, In California for ex even 5W is excessive probably 10W is what is needed - no real winter, no freezing but we get the same "oil cap viscosity" as someone in Canada or Alaska.
X2. One more fact to keep in mind is the higher the viscosity the harder it is to pump and the more time it takes to circulate and reach all the nooks and crannies in an engine. Using a higher oil viscosity than the engine manufacturer recommends is rarely a good idea.
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Old 07-22-2019, 01:36 AM   #21
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X2. One more fact to keep in mind is the higher the viscosity the harder it is to pump and the more time it takes to circulate and reach all the nooks and crannies in an engine. Using a higher oil viscosity than the engine manufacturer recommends is rarely a good idea.
I once started my motor with 10W at -4f it was in the oil "temp range" so I thought it would be ok.
Crank shaft seal failed that day, my mechanic explained that I shall consider the lowest temp of the night and not the temp in the morning when I start the motor.
Oil was so thick it damaged the seal. Main rear seal followed in the spring, car had less than 40K miles, so I attribute those seal fails to one "frozen" start.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:36 AM   #22
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Verifying oil pressure with a mechanical gauge is always a first step when oil pressure is in question. That should always be done before messing with viscosity, additives, or tossing parts at an engine.
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:34 AM   #23
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Had the classic lifter tick that so many Jeep engines suffer from. Had a quart of Lucas stabilizer in the shop, poured it in lifter tick was gone. Here's the kicker oil pressure was slow to come up on cold start (90*+ ambient temp) and pressure at 2000 RPM was near 70Lbs (hot). Probably did more damage to the motor with slow pressure build than it was worth. I quickly went back to Castrol 10w-30 and changed lifters, now its quiet with 60Lbs at 2000 RPM at idle (hot) 20lbs and a fast pressure build on cold starts. A good 10-40 will work in the desert summers with the 100+ days with no additives, winters I would suggest 10-30 with no additives.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:17 AM   #24
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my oil pressure is fine, but I've got the lifter tick. Already tried MMO to try to clean it out but had no impact. For my next change I'm going to give Rotella T6 5w40 a try. I came across a thread on an XJ forum comparing a bunch of different oil test results and chemistries and it seems like a pretty good oil.

I don't see any reason not to run diesel engine oil in a gas oil if it carries an API S* rating as well as the C*.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:22 AM   #25
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My 97 4.0 - 5 speed has over 419,000 miles and been running Rotella 15w/40 for nearly three hundred thousand miles. Gives me good oil pressure has ZDDP and quieted a noisy lifter.

So what's the question?
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:34 AM   #26
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The chart in Post #16 is not TJ specific.

For those who may be interested, this is the chart from the TJ factory service manual.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:57 AM   #27
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my oil pressure is fine, but I've got the lifter tick. Already tried MMO to try to clean it out but had no impact. For my next change I'm going to give Rotella T6 5w40 a try. I came across a thread on an XJ forum comparing a bunch of different oil test results and chemistries and it seems like a pretty good oil.

I don't see any reason not to run diesel engine oil in a gas oil if it carries an API S* rating as well as the C*.
A 5W40 diesel oil is no problem in that engine, in fact it might do a little extra cleaning. If the lifter tick is not going away you could have mechanical issues. Having said that, back in the day millions of cars lived long lives with lifter ticks, a$$uming they had good oil pressure, and no other mechanical issues.

Assuming the pressure is good and there are no other problems here's what I would do. Run the 5W40 oil, a thousand miles before the oil is due for a change add a pint of the MMO, do that over the next few oil changes, should you decide not to address the issue further. It might take a few oil change intervals to clean it up. Another product which works wonders in dirty but mechanically sound engines is Kreen. If you go that route follow their directions to the letter. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:37 AM   #28
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A 5W40 diesel oil is no problem in that engine, in fact it might do a little extra cleaning. If the lifter tick is not going away you could have mechanical issues. Having said that, back in the day millions of cars lived long lives with lifter ticks, a$$uming they had good oil pressure, and no other mechanical issues.

Assuming the pressure is good and there are no other problems here's what I would do. Run the 5W40 oil, a thousand miles before the oil is due for a change add a pint of the MMO, do that over the next few oil changes, should you decide not to address the issue further. It might take a few oil change intervals to clean it up. Another product which works wonders in dirty but mechanically sound engines is Kreen. If you go that route follow their directions to the letter. Good luck.
yeah, it's worth a shot. It's got 114k miles and it's been doing it for the 15k miles I've owned it but it's really only when it's first started up and not warmed up yet. Once it's to operating temp the tick is gone. I've been assuming a lifter is a little dirty and taking a while to pump up. Not sure what other possible explanation there is for it only happening when cold.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:31 AM   #29
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yeah, it's worth a shot. It's got 114k miles and it's been doing it for the 15k miles I've owned it but it's really only when it's first started up and not warmed up yet. Once it's to operating temp the tick is gone. I've been assuming a lifter is a little dirty and taking a while to pump up. Not sure what other possible explanation there is for it only happening when cold.
I have bad news for you, My first engine had one lifter that did that, they usually don't get better by them selves and the geniuses at Chrysler designed the engine where the head has to come off to replace lifters.

Go to a heavier oil, I went to the Rotella 15w/40 that kept it quiet in the morning for a lot of miles. Yes, after about 50k more miles she started clattering again in the morning.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:50 PM   #30
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Just put 20w50 in it and call it a day. It won’t hurt a damn thing especially with 188k on a cast iron engine. You could run gear lube in that thing and be fine. Especially during the summer. You’re not going to have a single problem. People overthink this shit.
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