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Old 10-23-2019, 12:40 AM
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Help with park/neutral switch wiring

I'm doing a 5.9L and auto trany swap from a ram truck into my '98 TJ. I had the harness put together and the Jeep running and driving, but have found a few mistakes I need to fix. I can not figure out where a few of the wires from the O2 sensors and the park/neutral switch go.

Here's a screenshot of the park switch, can someone tell me where the wire from pin 3, backup lamp feed goes to from the switch to the next connection. I have a FSM, but I can not make sense of the connections.
The reverse light connection must got to either the C103, or C104 connectors. That's the 2 connectors on the engine harness that go in the middle of the fire wall? Is this correct?
A page number on the FSM of where the diagram might be will also work.

I'm working through the O2 sensors also and will post about that next.

Thanks again.

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Old 10-23-2019, 12:59 PM   #2
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The page for the back ups in the ’98 FSM is 8W-51-3.

Connector locations start on 8W-90-1 & shows C-103 & 104 to be on the page showing “fig. 2” & I only see C-104 being used for that. Go to the connector pin out section (8W-80-7) to see number of pins (10) & various wire colors used to help identify which connector it is.

The O2 sensors are on 8W-30-10 (left hand drive) which I see has C-103 so same info as 104 but has 14 pins.
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Old 10-23-2019, 01:37 PM
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^ Thank you!

I'll look into that when I get home later. From what I remember, only the color of the wires and location is mentioned in the FSM, with no description of what they do. I've been searching the web also with no luck. But I'll look at those pages later.
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Old 10-23-2019, 02:10 PM   #4
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True the connector pin outs generally do not tell what they do. But are helpful finding the correct connector if you are tracing a specific circuit. So for example with the O2s once you find the correct page you can see where the circuit starts & ends, wire colors & which connectors are involved. Then you can use the pin outs to help locate the connector.
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Old 10-23-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RUBI 4 MY MRS View Post
True the connector pin outs generally do not tell what they do. But are helpful finding the correct connector if you are tracing a specific circuit. So for example with the O2s once you find the correct page you can see where the circuit starts & ends, wire colors & which connectors are involved. Then you can use the pin outs to help locate the connector.
In theory this would work, but in my case I have a combination of Ram and TJ harness wires and a few random colors thrown in for extensions and no factory connections left to trace out. 'Cause that would be too easy and what's the fun in that.

It's hard to believe the FSM does not include this information, wonder why.
If I get a chance, I'll stop by a dealership and see if they can provide me with this information, never know. If I can get it, I'll post it here. Seems it's just the C103 and C104 pin outs that do not have this description, although there maybe other, these are only the ones I've dealt with.

I think the lack of this information is why I screwed up on the park switch and O2 wiring.

The adventure continues.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-23-2019, 04:31 PM   #6
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Here is what I have for these 2 connectors.
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:24 PM   #7
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Help with park/neutral switch wiring

Heres what I have for my magnum to 2000tj. For what its worth... Old chicken scratches, I donít even remember writing the notes lol...

Anyway look at c104 pin 10. That might be your spot also.

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Old 10-23-2019, 06:15 PM
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Wow, that's exactly what I'm looking for, I did not find any of those pinouts in the FSM.

Perfect!

Thanks again.

Edit: Just did some checking through my "work". I have the Park/neutral switch and the O2 sensors all jacked up, wires are interconnected where they should not be. I'm sorting through the park switch first. After I moved the park switch pin 3 wire to C104 pin 9 from pin 10 where it was incorrectly, I now have the C104, pin 10 without a place to go, any thoughts on where that should go?
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Old 10-23-2019, 06:35 PM   #9
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Fortunately they are 2 of a few I have done, finding each by going through the FSM pages. Decoding the letter in the circuit column helps point most of them to the general location. Fortunately they are quite similar from ’97 to around 2000.
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Old 10-23-2019, 07:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Junkyard junkie View Post
Wow, that's exactly what I'm looking for, I did not find any of those pinouts in the FSM.

Perfect!

Thanks again.

Edit: Just did some checking through my "work". I have the Park/neutral switch and the O2 sensors all jacked up, wires are interconnected where they should not be. I'm sorting through the park switch first. After I moved the park switch pin 3 wire to C104 pin 9 from pin 10 where it was incorrectly, I now have the C104, pin 10 without a place to go, any thoughts on where that should go?

Looking at my notes, I believe one end of c104 pin 10 goes to fuse 7, and the other to the park/neutral switch.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:10 PM   #11
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Jo3gee is correct. F7 & p/n switch.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:32 PM
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So C104 pin 10 to which pin on p/n switch.

Thanks!
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:47 PM   #13
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Fuse 7, C-104-10 would be terminal 1 & C-104-9 would be terminal 3 for back up & pin 2 would be p/n C-104-5 going to the starter relay at D13 (coil grounding terminal). If you reverse 1 & 3 it should not matter but you need p/n (C-104-5) to the middle terminal.
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Old 10-23-2019, 11:58 PM
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Looking at my notes, I believe one end of c104 pin 10 goes to fuse 7, and the other to the park/neutral switch.
hey,

Just saw your Garage, I see you still have your v8 swaped TJ. How many miles since the swap, how's it running. Did you do anything with the trany.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:22 AM   #15
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Just saw your Garage, I see you still have your v8 swaped TJ. How many miles since the swap, how's it running. Did you do anything with the trany.

Low miles, about 1000 or so. Pretty much I just drive it on weekends and to the beach (about 5 miles away). It runs like a champ, tons of fun.

The tranny is a 46re, rebuilt with shift kit and heavy duty valve body. 2500 rpm high stall torque converter. B&M Z-gate shifter and cable. The transfer case is a np231-J upgraded with np231-HD internals including the wider chain.
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Old 10-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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I'm glad my engine side harness did not look like the trany side, 'cause there's no way it would have started.

I think I have it all cleared out, all pins check out to where they belong. Last question (I hope) is do pins 1 from both up and down stream O2 sensors go to C103, pin 1.

Thank you again.
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:28 PM   #17
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Yes, from fuse 21 through C-103 pin 1 splicing to the O2 heaters. Orange/ dark green wire(s).
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:33 PM   #18
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Fuse 21 gets power from the ASD relay & originally also spliced to the coil & injectors after going through C-103 pin 1. Of course I assume you don’t need those.
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Old 10-24-2019, 08:54 PM
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Yes, from fuse 21 through C-103 pin 1 splicing to the O2 heaters. Orange/ dark green wire(s).
It's done.................Again! For the last 5th time. Hahaha

The harness will go back in, in couple of day and hopefully for the last time.

Thanks all for the help!
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Old 10-26-2019, 01:19 PM
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Close, but not there yet.

Harness is back in and the p/n switch code is gone. The temporary rough idle at first cold start is still there, but much improved. Possibly a Bosch sensor issue, will get another brand and see how that goes.

Have a new issue though. Seems to not want to start always, will crank without problem, but not fire every time.

Also, C103, pin 9 is now abandoned. Think I had some O2 wire to it, but now it needs a home. Any thoughts on where the other end of the C103, pin 9 goes? I see it's circuit F12 to Fuse 11 to PCM, I assume it's to a specific pin to PCM? But which one?

There are no more codes to go off of.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-26-2019, 03:06 PM   #21
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I believe on my TJ it went to the torque converter solenoid connector, which I didnít need anymore with the 46re (wired separately).
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Old 10-26-2019, 03:53 PM
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I believe on my TJ it went to the torque converter solenoid connector, which I didnít need anymore with the 46re (wired separately).
I also have the 46re on a separate solenoid, so maybe it doesn't get used.

Something is still not right thought, since the new delayed starting condition. I'll look into it further, likely a wiring issue. I did change things around. Maybe crank, or cam sensor connector, or loose ground. Those grounds will cause all sorts of random problems.

Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2019, 04:02 PM   #23
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Yup, sometimes you just need to step away and go back to basics. Grounds, fuel, spark, compression, spark plugs in correct order, verify not 180 out, ASD relay, etc...
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Old 10-26-2019, 04:05 PM   #24
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Help with park/neutral switch wiring

Oh, and my manual was wrong, the TPS sensor wiring needed flipped 1<->3 from what the schematics said.
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Old 10-26-2019, 04:09 PM
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Oh, and my manual was wrong, the TPS sensor wiring needed flipped 1<->3 from what the schematics said.
HAHA, went through the same issue. Looks like we both followed the TJ wiring on the engine sensors.
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Old 10-26-2019, 05:02 PM   #26
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The 103-9 has the wire from fuse 11 in the fuse block behind the glove box after splicing to the ASD & FP relay coils & EVAP purge solenoid & leak detection pump. After C-103 it then goes to another splice where one leg does go to the (original) TC clutch solenoid & the other leg going to the PCM for key on & start power at C-2 (black), pin A2.

As for the sometimes crank, no start, how are you dealing with the ASD relay (or equivalent)? You need to be sure you are wired to a circuit that has 12v power for both run & start if you are using some sort of relay. Fuses 9-10-11 in the fuse block are the only ones set up that way. And, of course the ignition switch is responsible for that so possible there is a problem there. If you are still using fuse 11 for that function, you should make sure you are getting 12v with the key in the start position. Same applies to the PCM which is also (originally) powered through f-11 & needs to be wired through C-103 pin 9 as already noted above if still being used for any ignition/fuel supply functions.
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:12 PM
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The 103-9 has the wire from fuse 11 in the fuse block behind the glove box after splicing to the ASD & FP relay coils & EVAP purge solenoid & leak detection pump. After C-103 it then goes to another splice where one leg does go to the (original) TC clutch solenoid & the other leg going to the PCM for key on & start power at C-2 (black), pin A2.

As for the sometimes crank, no start, how are you dealing with the ASD relay (or equivalent)? You need to be sure you are wired to a circuit that has 12v power for both run & start if you are using some sort of relay. Fuses 9-10-11 in the fuse block are the only ones set up that way. And, of course the ignition switch is responsible for that so possible there is a problem there. If you are still using fuse 11 for that function, you should make sure you are getting 12v with the key in the start position. Same applies to the PCM which is also (originally) powered through f-11 & needs to be wired through C-103 pin 9 as already noted above if still being used for any ignition/fuel supply functions.

You nailed it again. I had C103, pin 1 to computer C2, pin 2.
Moved C103, pin 9 to computer C2, pin 2 and no more issues.
Went out for a 15 mile drive, no CEL, or stored codes. The harness is loomed and back in place. HOPEFULLY FOR THE LAST TIME!!!

Still have what appears to be a situation where it's not going into closed loop till I rev it a bit on a cold start, but I am told by the Ram forum people that the Magnum engines don't like the Bosch O2 sensors so I'll try that.

Thanks you to everyone that helped me out on this.
I am aware and grateful of the time that you put into looking through diagrams and posting replies.

Thank you again!!!!
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:30 PM   #28
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Jeeps don’t like Bosch either, must be a Chrysler thing.


Sooo, how about a photo (of the engine, not the harness)??
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:40 PM
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Here it is.
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:43 PM   #30
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Nice!



Thanks.

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