Doing frame-replace resto on 97 TJ 4.0 AX-15 Progress to date:
• Shook my rusty frame til all the parts fell off into shelves, bins, and baggies (thanks, Soundgarden)
• Sourced a straight, no-rust frame
• Lop off 2.4L motor mounts, made jig to place 4.0L mounts, welded on
• Frame has Por-15 & top-coat, Eastwood inner frame coating
• DPG OME/JKS 2.75” susp. Lift. 1.25” BL is ready when the tub is
• New ball joints, linkages,u-joints, axle seals, brakes, etc, etc
• All hardware cleaned/prepped (+1 for vibratory tumbler) or replaced
• Pretty frame now rolling on 33s in a shack near you.
Belly pan on, ‘bout ready for a hunk of noisy iron and some gears, so...prep engine/clutch/trans/harness so I can toss it on the frame. Then slap the tub back on, and go tear it up in sand, mud, rocks, ruts, trees, and bad decisions.
~250k miles – maintenance unknown, but sparked right up and purred sweetly before purchase ‘cept for the crack header leaks...and the belly pan/tranny hanging on by flaky orange metal shards and hope.
And now. Beer in fridge. Tranny on a jack somewhere. New header to replace its cracked brother waits in a bag behind me. 4.0 on engine stand...all proud of its slightly rusty self - sittin there all “perfect work height” and damn near nude.
1. So, how could I NOT change the rear main seal...and front seal. Well, while that’s off, why not get some Plastigage and check crankshaft main bearing clearance?
3. Dang, except for pulling rocker arms/push rods, the 1st 15 steps of head removal are done, so...get a kit with new bolts, gaskets, etc. Now I can check cylinder wear, valve wear, new gasket, etc.
5. Love the idea of doing my 1st engine rebuild (if needed), but also itchin’ to make bad decisions in mud n ruts. One friend says, “dude...just slap that beast in and let’s go!”
6. long blocks for $1500. Built stroker for $6500...LS crate motor for $9000...wait. Wake up. Psycho-analysis for existential crisis - $145/hour.
7. Maybe I can borrow/rent (or just buy)the specialty tools so I can measure everything, and then I’d know the good, the bad, and the ugly. Feeling my way thru this as I go.
Thoughts? Ideas? Prayers?
Thanks!
• Shook my rusty frame til all the parts fell off into shelves, bins, and baggies (thanks, Soundgarden)
• Sourced a straight, no-rust frame
• Lop off 2.4L motor mounts, made jig to place 4.0L mounts, welded on
• Frame has Por-15 & top-coat, Eastwood inner frame coating
• DPG OME/JKS 2.75” susp. Lift. 1.25” BL is ready when the tub is
• New ball joints, linkages,u-joints, axle seals, brakes, etc, etc
• All hardware cleaned/prepped (+1 for vibratory tumbler) or replaced
• Pretty frame now rolling on 33s in a shack near you.
Belly pan on, ‘bout ready for a hunk of noisy iron and some gears, so...prep engine/clutch/trans/harness so I can toss it on the frame. Then slap the tub back on, and go tear it up in sand, mud, rocks, ruts, trees, and bad decisions.
~250k miles – maintenance unknown, but sparked right up and purred sweetly before purchase ‘cept for the crack header leaks...and the belly pan/tranny hanging on by flaky orange metal shards and hope.
And now. Beer in fridge. Tranny on a jack somewhere. New header to replace its cracked brother waits in a bag behind me. 4.0 on engine stand...all proud of its slightly rusty self - sittin there all “perfect work height” and damn near nude.
1. So, how could I NOT change the rear main seal...and front seal. Well, while that’s off, why not get some Plastigage and check crankshaft main bearing clearance?
QUESTION: The FSM says 2 methods to support Crankshaft while doing this. Preferred: .010” shim on bearings adjacent to the bearing to be checked. Alternate: Support crank weight with a jack under the counterweight adjacent to the bearing being checked. Can anyone with experience school me on this? Am I wrong that it seems fairly easy, given that I’m right there staring at it?
QUESTION: FSM says that when reinstalling front main seal, “Apply a light film of Perfect Seal, or equivalent, on the outside diameter of the seal.” What? Is that the toilet sealing stuff?!
2. Timing cover may as well come off, to verify < .5” of chain slop. QUESTION: FSM says that when reinstalling front main seal, “Apply a light film of Perfect Seal, or equivalent, on the outside diameter of the seal.” What? Is that the toilet sealing stuff?!
3. Dang, except for pulling rocker arms/push rods, the 1st 15 steps of head removal are done, so...get a kit with new bolts, gaskets, etc. Now I can check cylinder wear, valve wear, new gasket, etc.
• I lack a few specialty tools, so maybe...$350 for that? (Dial gauges, an inch-lb torque wrench,...)
• If there’s only a little wear, slap it all back together w/new gaskets, timing chain and go. But at 250k miles, what do I expect? (wear...I expect wear)
4. Hmmm. I see reman short blocks for $950. Compare that against tools and replacement parts...hmmm.• If there’s only a little wear, slap it all back together w/new gaskets, timing chain and go. But at 250k miles, what do I expect? (wear...I expect wear)
5. Love the idea of doing my 1st engine rebuild (if needed), but also itchin’ to make bad decisions in mud n ruts. One friend says, “dude...just slap that beast in and let’s go!”
6. long blocks for $1500. Built stroker for $6500...LS crate motor for $9000...wait. Wake up. Psycho-analysis for existential crisis - $145/hour.
7. Maybe I can borrow/rent (or just buy)the specialty tools so I can measure everything, and then I’d know the good, the bad, and the ugly. Feeling my way thru this as I go.
Thoughts? Ideas? Prayers?
Thanks!