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Old 01-26-2017, 11:00 PM
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Hvac repair: 3 pin switch melted.

Ive always had to wiggle my 3 pin switch around on the back of my hvac unit for it to work. I've gotten sick of this, so I ordered the Mopar repair kit. PN # 68080536AA. Before I heat shrink this I want to clarify a few questions I had about this repair process. The kit comes with 3 bigger gauge green wires and 3 smaller purple gauge wires. I am left with 2 purple wires left and I am unsure where they go. I am assuming I use all 3 green wires and one of the purple wires for factory small light green wire? Also, on the new pig tail connector, I have a b and c. I believe a would connect to the small factory light green wire. While b would go to the 4 speed selector switch and c would connect to the ground. If anyone has done this repair, any help would be appreciated. I have attached pictures for reference.

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Old 01-27-2017, 12:56 AM   #2
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The smaller gauge wire for the a/c compressor control goes in the “a” spot from the light green wire. The “b” gets a heavier one going to the speed switch as you say & is dark green. The “c” or bottom one is also heavier & goes to ground which is the black wire.

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Old 01-27-2017, 08:27 AM
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The smaller gauge wire for the a/c compressor control goes in the “a” spot from the light green wire. The “b” gets a heavier one going to the speed switch as you say & is dark green. The “c” or bottom one is also heavier & goes to ground which is the black wire.
Any idea why they include 2 more purple wires when you only need 1?
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:22 PM   #4
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I would guess that it is a kit used for more than one application. Notice that the wire colors don’t match the OEM ones they attach to either.

Most importantly match the wire size to the OEM wires & be sure to get them in the correct position to keep everything working as it should.
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Old 01-27-2017, 04:25 PM
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Appreciate the help, basically that was my main question about the inclusion of 6 when you only need 4 of them.
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Old 01-27-2017, 07:01 PM   #6
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4? Isn't that the 3 wire connector on the side of the mode switch. If so shouldn't it be 2 heavier & 1 lighter gauge wires?
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:13 AM
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The 3rd bigger gauge wire goes from the 5 speed selector switch all the way to the 3 pin switch. Guessing it's the replacement for the dark green wire from the factory harness. If this isn't correct, please correct me though.
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:47 PM   #8
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A= light green a/c wire.
B= dark green from speed switch.
C= black to ground.

You posted this: “Also, on the new pig tail connector, I have a b and c. I believe a would connect to the small factory light green wire. While b would go to the 4 speed selector switch and c would connect to the ground.”

Which is correct. The b & c are heavier & a is smaller. That is 3 wires. Where is your other heavier wire going to? Something non factory added maybe?
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:45 PM
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On the far left, do you see the green wire? I Removed the factory dark green wire there and replaced it with a new one from the kit I bought. Is this not correct?
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:53 AM
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A= light green a/c wire.
B= dark green from speed switch.
C= black to ground.

You posted this: “Also, on the new pig tail connector, I have a b and c. I believe a would connect to the small factory light green wire. While b would go to the 4 speed selector switch and c would connect to the ground.”

Which is correct. The b & c are heavier & a is smaller. That is 3 wires. Where is your other heavier wire going to? Something non factory added maybe?
You seem to know a decent amount about our hvac system. Let me ask another question. I repaired the wiring and I also replaced the blower motor relay and the blower motor itself but it's still not working. I checked for power at the blower motor and my test light lit up. What else can I do to diagnose this?
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Old 02-15-2017, 02:16 PM   #11
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Since you still have none of the speeds working with power to the motor you must be loosing the ground to the motor. Here is a test procedure that should get you going. Note after having power to the motor the rest of the circuit is the ground side & the mode switch is the final link assuming the c wire (black) is grounded. Also assuming you have a ‘99-‘04 TJ.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/tj...l#post15939209

I’m still not sure how/where the 3rd heavier wire was used so not sure if you got it wired correctly. You replace all 3 wires with the 3 wire connector that plugs into the mode selector switch. Yes, the b wire goes over to the speed switch & into that 5 wire connector. Did you use the 3rd heavier wire at the speed switch? It is important that the b wire from the mode switch is properly connected to the speed switch at the correct position, I think labeled either e or 5. Before starting the procedure linked here go to the speed switch & ground that wire, originally dark green, & with the key on see if you get all 4 speeds. If good there go to the mode switch & unplug your new 3 wire connector & ground the b wire. That should also get all 4 speeds. If good, use a jumper wire & jump between the b & c wires. You should get all 4 speeds. If good that way but not when the connector is plugged into the mode switch, the mode switch is bad, a definite possibility since it got hot enough to melt the connector. The mode switch should have continuity between the b & c terminals when the switch is in every position except off. If not, that will prove it is bad.
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Old 02-15-2017, 02:42 PM
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Since you still have none of the speeds working with power to the motor you must be loosing the ground to the motor. Here is a test procedure that should get you going. Note after having power to the motor the rest of the circuit is the ground side & the mode switch is the final link assuming the c wire (black) is grounded. Also assuming you have a ‘99-‘04 TJ.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/tj...l#post15939209

I’m still not sure how/where the 3rd heavier wire was used so not sure if you got it wired correctly. You replace all 3 wires with the 3 wire connector that plugs into the mode selector switch. Yes, the b wire goes over to the speed switch & into that 5 wire connector. Did you use the 3rd heavier wire at the speed switch? It is important that the b wire from the mode switch is properly connected to the speed switch at the correct position, I think labeled either e or 5. Before starting the procedure linked here go to the speed switch & ground that wire, originally dark green, & with the key on see if you get all 4 speeds. If good there go to the mode switch & unplug your new 3 wire connector & ground the b wire. That should also get all 4 speeds. If good, use a jumper wire & jump between the b & c wires. You should get all 4 speeds. If good that way but not when the connector is plugged into the mode switch, the mode switch is bad, a definite possibility since it got hot enough to melt the connector. The mode switch should have continuity between the b & c terminals when the switch is in every position except off. If not, that will prove it is bad.
I did use the 3rd heavier wire at the speed switch. When you say ground the speed switch wire that I added, what do you mean? I already have the heavier gauge wire from the speed switch heat shrink over to the b labled wire on the 3 pin connector. I did try the other day to use a paper clip between the b and the c wire to see if it would work and it still didn't work.
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:05 PM   #13
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OK what you really need to do is be sure the motor is getting the proper grounding it needs. The way the circuit works is each of the 4 wires at the speed switch, not counting the dark green one at pin 5 needs to connect to ground, one for each speed switch position to get the various speeds. That happens by the switch connecting each to the dark green wire as needed. Then the dark green wire gets grounded through the mode switch when the mode switch is in any position except off through the black wire. So the black wire needs to be grounded, the mode switch needs to connect that to the dark green wire & the dark green needs to connect (properly) to the speed switch. To check all of this, you would start at the speed switch & bypass the rest by jumping a grounded wire to the proper (dark green) wire at the speed switch. That eliminates the possibility of the dark green wire, the mode switch or the black wire being bad. Then, if good, work down the circuit as noted.
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:58 PM
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When I first attempted to fix this, the green wire at the speed switch touch the black ground wire and sparked. The fan blew as hard as it could during this time until I pulled off the wire cap. After that, it hasn't worked. Did I burn something up?
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:56 PM   #15
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What yr do you have?
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:50 PM
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what yr do you have?
2001
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:53 PM   #17
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OK, was pretty sure it was ’99-’04 which are all the same. The ’05-’06 have some different color wires.

If the green wire at the speed switch touches ground (or the black wire which is grounded) & it runs full speed I would assume the speed switch was on high. If so, that is normal & turning the speed switch to lower speed settings should lower the fan speed to those setting speeds, which would also be normal. (See post 13)


If it won’t run at all with any of the 4 wires at the speed switch not including the green one that goes to the mode switch you might have a blown fuse. The fuses to check are fuse 1 in the PDC & 8 in the fuse block behind the glove box. Best to go to the link I gave above & start from the beginning.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:19 AM
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So, I got it fixed. Ended up being the blower speed switch. Even though I had replaced this a year and a half ag,o it burnt up again. Is there any way to prevent this? The relay mod? Or does my new wiring harness that has a strong connection help prevent this from occurring again?
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:18 PM   #19
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Good work figuring it out.

I think having a solid contact at all connections is a good start. The speed switch may have been damaged from added resistance in the circuit when the mode connector was bad.

The relay mod will definitely reduce the load on the speed & mode switches.

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