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Old 06-25-2014, 10:56 PM
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is my alignment right? do I need upper adjustables?

I am wondering if I need the rear upper adjustable control arms as suggested by my alignment shop. my numbers currently are

left front
Camber -.2
Caster 4
toe .16

Right front
Camber -.3
Caster 3.6
Toe .15

Front
Total Toe .31
Steer Ahead 0.00

Left Rear
Camber -.3
Toe .54

Right Rear
Camber -1
Toe -.09

Rear
Total toe .44
THRUST ANGLE .31

Is there anything besides my thrust angle that would be concerning and is that thrust angle bad? and if so why? newby to jeep suspension

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Old 06-26-2014, 07:36 AM   #2
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Based on the rear toe numbers if say something is bent. I'm assuming the alignment shop wants to get as good of numbers as they can by moving the axle. .5* on one side and a negative degree or so (don't recall the exact numbers) on the other side means that something is tweaked, like maybe the frame, the arms, or...?

Been in an accident or was the jeep tore up offroad before you got it maybe?

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Old 06-26-2014, 07:52 AM   #3
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how much lift? what control arms do you have now? what other parts do you have - track bars? brackets? you've haven't given us enough info to work with.

the caster sucks. to fix that you'll need adjustable lower control arms, and possibly adjustable uppers depending how much lift you have.

right rear camber and rear toe sucks but you can't fix either.

thrust angle is least of your concerns right now.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:37 PM
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original control arms, 2.5 rancho lift, original track bars and brackets.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthrune View Post
original control arms, 2.5 rancho lift, original track bars and brackets.
thats your problems.

get adjustable lower control arms, and adjustable front and rear track bars.

for your lift height I'd suggest the JKS #126 front track bar with a V8 ZJ tie-rod and ~1" front bumpstop extension, the Metalcloak rear track bar and Currie or Savvy front lower control arms, set at 16-16-1/8". This assumes stock diff cover.

If you run the #126 with different tie-rod, with an aftermarket diff cover or without the proper bumpstop extension, you will get suspension interferences.

center the axles at ride height with the weight on the tires. set the front LCA's to the proper lengths. drill and tap your front spring perch to attach 1" Performance Accessories 3" OD body lift pucks. with the springs out check full bump and full flex, with your tires installed. check for brake line length issues. once you have finally set up & dialed in your suspension properly go back and get another alignment done. post those specs. thrust angle should be back within spec and the caster should be closer to 5.5-6°.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:38 AM   #6
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I can see the front caster and the other numbers being corrected by proper axle location and alignment through longer track bars and adjustable control arms but I have a question.

Isn't the rear caster and toe differences an indication of something being bent? I realize that .5 degrees is negligible insofar as adjustment range, but is that something that can be brought back into spec, or even close to the other end of the axle, with just lower arm adjustment?

I am also new to solid axle suspension, having come from another form of Motorsport, though the geometry is the same I know the application of the principles is slightly different.

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