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Old 02-13-2020, 09:19 AM
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Issues galore 99 TJ 4.0

So recently my thermostat housing started to leak. For the life of me I cant get the damn thing to seal. new housing, scraped the engine side clean. Use paper gasket and it just wants to leak.



second issue changing my water pump the top bolt right above the pulley, the head snapped off. Whats the best way to get that now stud out of the engine. Should I heat and PB or extractor.

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Old 02-13-2020, 09:36 AM   #2
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So recently my thermostat housing started to leak. For the life of me I cant get the damn thing to seal. new housing, scraped the engine side clean. Use paper gasket and it just wants to leak.



second issue changing my water pump the top bolt right above the pulley, the head snapped off. Whats the best way to get that now stud out of the engine. Should I heat and PB or extractor.


Hey! Welcome to the forum. Im going to move your post to the TJ forum so you can get better help! This is the JL forum.


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Old 02-13-2020, 03:23 PM   #3
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For your t-housing, check to see if your bolts are stripped. If they are, you won't be able to get them tight enough to stop a leak.


As for the snapped bolt, you can try using a bolt extractor such as this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...-pc-61981.html
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:22 PM
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For your t-housing, check to see if your bolts are stripped. If they are, you won't be able to get them tight enough to stop a leak.


As for the snapped bolt, you can try using a bolt extractor such as this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...-pc-61981.html
The bolts are fine. But now im looking at it the mating surface on the head and it seems like the previous owner might have tried to clean it up using a wire wheel.

There are small scratches.
So im gonna stone it flat. And hope i can get it to seal.

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Old 02-13-2020, 11:53 PM   #5
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If not terribly pitted, you should be able to use a general paper/fiber gasket and additionally apply a very limited amount of RTV sealant to supplement the gasket seal, particularly where the previous grinding was performed..


Use sensor-safe RTV, similar to Permatex Ultra Blue.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:57 PM   #6
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To get access to the water pump bolt in order to drill it for removal with an EZ out, you may have to remove the entire front grill to do it properly.
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Old 02-14-2020, 03:53 AM   #7
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99.9% chance the thermostat leak is being caused by the thermostat dropping out of the groove before you get it tightened down.

The minor imperfections pictured are absolutely a non issue

If you try to grind it down you'll CREATE a problem of the groove not being deep enough for the stat
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:18 AM
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To get access to the water pump bolt in order to drill it for removal with an EZ out, you may have to remove the entire front grill to do it properly.
I sure as heck hope not. I need it for monday and i cant do anything today. Its 20 outside today.

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Old 02-14-2020, 08:59 AM   #9
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I had a stat leak on my 03 when first acquired. Upon removal, substantial pitting of the surface. Generous appropriate RTV, no leaks for the several years since.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:44 AM
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I had a stat leak on my 03 when first acquired. Upon removal, substantial pitting of the surface. Generous appropriate RTV, no leaks for the several years since.
Yeah my therm went 2 monts ago. I replace it and the gasket. I didnt do the housing. It started leaking wednesday. So im gonna use thr felpro gasket and rtv for thermostats and let it loose before tightening completely. Let it tack up a bit.

The water pump stud I got a map gas torch from work and ill need to get pb and some brake clean.
Get that stud out. I cant work outside today its too cold for that. 20 F windchilll of 8 today

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Old 02-14-2020, 10:54 AM   #11
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Is the thermostat housing warped? Set it on a piece of glass to see if sits flush across the entire surface. It doesn't take much warping to leak.

We ran into this with my son's 4.0 XJ (I seem to have a lot of stories about his Jeep).
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Old 02-14-2020, 10:59 AM
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Is the thermostat housing warped? Set it on a piece of glass to see if sits flush across the entire surface. It doesn't take much warping to leak.



We ran into this with my son's 4.0 XJ (I seem to have a lot of stories about his Jeep).
Its a brand new housing.

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Old 02-14-2020, 11:29 AM   #13
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Did just the head snap off of the bolt? When fastened, that center top bolt has over an inch of threads between the head of the bolt and the block. You have about an inch of stud sticking out of the block right? Shouldn't be too much of a pain. Probably a good candidate for the double nut trick. If not, heat & pliers.
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:16 PM   #14
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Its a brand new housing.

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Most likely it's flat, but based on my experience, I wouldn't assume anything about new parts when having a problem and would still check. It's easy enough to do and eliminates a possible leak source if it is truly flat, and it's a cheap fix if it is warped - either sand it out or replace it.
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:26 PM
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Did just the head snap off of the bolt? When fastened, that center top bolt has over an inch of threads between the head of the bolt and the block. You have about an inch of stud sticking out of the block right? Shouldn't be too much of a pain. Probably a good candidate for the double nut trick. If not, heat & pliers.
Nope. About a little more than a 1/4" sticking out.

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Old 02-14-2020, 12:29 PM
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Most likely it's flat, but based on my experience, I wouldn't assume anything about new parts when having a problem and would still check. It's easy enough to do and eliminates a possible leak source if it is truly flat, and it's a cheap fix if it is warped - either sand it out or replace it.
Ill give her a once over when i get back to working on it. Like I said im pretty confident its flat. Im a machinist and it passed the straight edge check. Lol. But someone else told me light coat of RTV on the engine side to help fill in any of those imperfections. And just bare paper on the housing side. And im gonna have to replace some hoses. And then get that damn stud out.

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Old 02-14-2020, 11:00 PM
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Other question. Anyone know what size and length the bolts were on the water pump?

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Old 02-15-2020, 02:00 AM   #18
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Other question. Anyone know what size and length the bolts were on the water pump?

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Old 02-15-2020, 05:24 AM   #19
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Got a welder? Weld another bolt onto the broken stud if you can. It’s worth a shot.
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:27 AM   #20
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Then unscrew them out with the new bolt. The heat from welding often will help knock the seized / broken stud loose too.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:15 AM
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Then unscrew them out with the new bolt. The heat from welding often will help knock the seized / broken stud loose too.
Unfortunately i live in an apartment and dont have a welder.

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Old 02-15-2020, 02:50 PM
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This is what victory looks like fellahs



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Old 02-15-2020, 04:50 PM   #23
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Awesome. Looks like you heated her up and twisted it out with a vise grip.
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:02 PM
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Awesome. Looks like you heated her up and twisted it out with a vise grip.
Yes. Map gas and pb blaster

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Old 02-15-2020, 06:20 PM   #25
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Nicely done - victory.
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 PM   #26
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The thermostat needs to be clocked properly inside the housing. The thermostat may hit inside the housing and that will either make it leak or it may damage the thermostat.
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 PM   #27
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fyi - fine grit sand paper (600 or better) on a flat surface (piece of glass works) with a bit of water as a lube will make it flat. keep swirling it around in a figure 8 until surface is all the same. keep it wet. yer arm will fall off before you can remove too much. plus, you can do it inside where its warm and the beers are close.
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Old Yesterday, 09:28 PM   #28
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I replaced the the water pump on my 72 Chevy and the darn thing kept leaking. It was not new, it was rebuilt but had a pin hole in it. I had to get another one. I'm thinking that might be the problem that you are having with your housing.

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