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Old 03-01-2016, 09:02 PM
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Question New tj owner with some burning questions

Howdy troops. I have been reading about different lifts and their "ups and downs" so to say. I am wicked confused as to what to buy. And yes, I have took a couple of long ganders at the lift review thread. Anyway, I was wondering at which height I have to start thinking about dropping the transfer case, raising the body, and I just read something about adding some length to the vent on the rear axle?

I just got an 05 rocky mountain edition and i m looking to put a 2" to 4" lift on him. His name is oscar. I also have zero mechanical experience but i would ideally like to assume the role of cheif mechanic. Any help for a confused little man? Thanks folks.

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Old 03-01-2016, 09:41 PM   #2
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Spring Lifts up to 3" are pretty simple as you can utilize your stock control arms and use a 1" Motor Mount lift to avoid rear driveline vibrations...instead of a Transfercase drop. Spring lifts more that 3" start getting expensive to do it correctly.... Adj Control arms with Johnny joints, SYE/CV drive line, etc.

Many of us really like the Zone 4.25" Combo kit that has 3" spring, 1" Motor Mount Lift, 1.25" Body Lift....great for clearing 33's. And Zone's shocks are valved correctly for the TJ. All for just $529.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gmD_z780NM

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'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:29 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Spring Lifts up to 3" are pretty simple as you can utilize your stock control arms and use a 1" Motor Mount lift to avoid rear driveline vibrations...instead of a Transfercase drop. Spring lifts more that 3" start getting expensive to do it correctly.... Adj Control arms with Johnny joints, SYE/CV drive line, etc.

Many of us really like the Zone 4.25" Combo kit that has 3" spring, 1" Motor Mount Lift, 1.25" Body Lift....great for clearing 33's. And Zone's shocks are valved correctly for the TJ. All for just $529.

That's pretty inexpensive! Many of the lift kits I see seem to be in the $1500+ range.
I also recently purchased a TJ and so I am researching lifts as well, though at this time I'm hesitant and wondering if I want to get a lift at all.
Any owners of the Zone 4.25" care to chime in with some experiences?
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:34 PM   #4
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Spring Lifts up to 3" are pretty simple as you can utilize your stock control arms and use a 1" Motor Mount lift to avoid rear driveline vibrations...instead of a Transfercase
Besides ground clearance, is there another reason to go motor mount lift instead of belly pan drop?
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:44 PM   #5
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Any owners of the Zone 4.25" care to chime in with some experiences?
Search zone 4.25 and you'll find all of the positive feedback you can handle.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Spring Lifts up to 3" are pretty simple as you can utilize your stock control arms and use a 1" Motor Mount lift to avoid rear driveline vibrations...instead of a Transfercase drop. Spring lifts more that 3" start getting expensive to do it correctly.... Adj Control arms with Johnny joints, SYE/CV drive line, etc.

Many of us really like the Zone 4.25" Combo kit that has 3" spring, 1" Motor Mount Lift, 1.25" Body Lift....great for clearing 33's. And Zone's shocks are valved correctly for the TJ. All for just $529.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gmD_z780NM
Thanks, man. Did you happen to do the work yourself? any tips on doing this? I went to zoneoffroad.com and looked at purchasing them and it had a little disclaimer that said: "Optional alignment cam kit (J5311) is recommended when using factory length front/lower control arms." and would the disconnects be a solid package option to opt in for?

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Old 03-02-2016, 10:52 AM   #7
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Besides ground clearance, is there another reason to go motor mount lift instead of belly pan drop?
Since the 1" MML raises the motor up, the oil pan is also moved up giving it more clearance/protection from rocks, logs, etc. But the main function is that is straighten-outs the driveline angles to the rear axle that will prevent u-joint vibrations.

A transfercase drop also straightens-out the drive line angles, but at the cost of losing belly clearance. So it is really silly to install 3"-4" springs just to drop the belly back down 1.5-2". So a 1" MML is the way to go (cost effective) up to 3" springs.

3.5"-4" springs, and a SYE/CV driveline is correct way to get the driveline angles correct and keep belly clearance.
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Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:01 AM   #8
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Thanks, man. Did you happen to do the work yourself? any tips on doing this? I went to zoneoffroad.com and looked at purchasing them and it had a little disclaimer that said: "Optional alignment cam kit (J5311) is recommended when using factory length front/lower control arms." and would the disconnects be a solid package option to opt in for?

I installed it by myself in a weekend (13 total hours) using hand tools (sockets and wrenches), drill, a ratchet strap, floor jack, and 2 jack stands. I didn't need the cam kit for my '99 TJ.

As far as the disconnects, I got the Zone solid sway bar links and made my own disconnects for less than $10.
Jeep Homemade Swaybar Disconnects

I also prefer the Zone Hydro shocks (white body) as the Zone Nitro (black body) are slightly stiffer. If my TJ was a dedicated offroad rig, I probably would have got the Nitro's, but the Hydros are great for daily driving and moderate offroading.
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'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobious1 View Post
Thanks, man. Did you happen to do the work yourself? any tips on doing this? I went to zoneoffroad.com and looked at purchasing them and it had a little disclaimer that said: "Optional alignment cam kit (J5311) is recommended when using factory length front/lower control arms." and would the disconnects be a solid package option to opt in for?

raising the suspension will change your caster which will cause the front end to feel a little loose as that is what controls your steerings return to center. it can be remedied by installing adj control arms or those cam bolts. the cam bolts can be difficult to set and kept at that setting, but can be used, but adj arms with johnny joints or duroflex joints are preferred

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