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Old 10-09-2019, 05:20 PM
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No Fuse msg but my fuses are good. Help!

I just bought a 02 Wrangler Sport 4.0. The "no fuse" msg is flashing. Also there is no power at the Accessory key position. It starts and runs fine except for no radio, no dome light and no fog lights. I've checked all of the fuses and the fuse block, they check ok Have started digging into the steering column and the wiring harness but could use some help/suggestions. Thank you!

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Old 10-09-2019, 06:17 PM   #2
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Check fuse 24 in the PDC in front of the battery. If it “looks” good, check it with a meter or swap it with a known good fuse. That is the circuit you are losing power to. If the fuse is actually good you are likely losing the 12v from it to most of the things you mentioned. Also on that fuse is the under hood light. If the fuse is good you can check that light. If good there but not getting any power to the things in the cab that will narrow down where to look.

However, I don’t see a connection to the fogs or the acc ignition position for that matter.

Here is the circuit from the FSM.
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:29 PM
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Thank you. I will check those things out and report back. I just got it this week and the battery is pretty weak. Could that contribute to the problem?
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:48 PM   #4
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Did you check the fuses behind the glove box ?

Not positive about your 02 but my 05 has some there.

The PO may have pulled the fuse for the dome light when he had the doors off

The fog light may have a problem in the switch itself, I just had to replace my Headlight/foglight stalk on the steering column because the fog lights weren't working.
Like this one https://www.quadratec.com/products/55312_0009.htm

.
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:29 PM
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Yes, I checked the fuses behind the glove box. They looked ok. I'm gonna buys some new fuses and swap some out. Thx Rocker.
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:50 PM   #6
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The odometer actually says - no fuse -?

I have seen- no bus

But never seen one say no fuse




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Old 10-09-2019, 09:09 PM   #7
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A weak battery will not cause any of this but needs to be addressed to avoid other problems like not enough power to start the engine.

It is not the fuses behind the glove box, it is in the PDC.

The fog lights not working is probably a separate issue & could definitely a bad switch which is integrated into the multi function switch. When that switch fails the fogs will not turn off so the owner will usually either pull the fuse or the relay to keep them from draining the battery.

“No fuse” actually refers to the fuse called the IOD (ignition off draw) fuse (fuse 15) & was removed when shipped to dealers to avoid the battery draining during storage &/or shipping. That 50a fuse supplies fuse 24 (10a) so the cluster sees no power in that circuit but since 24 is 10a & 15 is 50a, 24 it the one that blows in case of a short in that circuit. Although, you do need to be sure fuse 15 is in place if nothing in that circuit has worked since you got your Jeep it is not normally the one that is blown.

Here is the info on the IOD from the 2002 FSM.

IOD FUSE
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off
Draw (IOD) fuse (Fig. 5) that is removed from its
cavity in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) when
the vehicle is shipped from the factory. Dealer personnel
are to remove the IOD fuse from the storage
location and install it into PDC fuse cavity 15 as part
of the preparation procedures performed just prior to
new vehicle delivery.
The PDC has a molded plastic cover that can be
unlatched and opened to provide service access to all
of the fuses and relays in the PDC. An integral latch
and hinge tabs are molded into the PDC cover for
easy removal. A fuse layout map is integral to the
underside of the PDC cover to ensure proper fuse
and relay identification. The IOD fuse is a 50 ampere
cartridge-type fuse and, when removed, it is stored in
the empty fuse cavity 11 of the PDC.
OPERATION
The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal condition
where power is being drained from the battery
with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD
fuse feeds the memory and sleep mode functions for
many of the electronic modules in the vehicle as well
as various other accessories that require battery current
when the ignition switch is in the Off position,
including the clock. The only reason the IOD fuse is
removed is to reduce the normal IOD of the vehicle
electrical system during new vehicle transportation
and pre-delivery storage to reduce battery depletion,
while still allowing vehicle operation so that the
vehicle can be loaded, unloaded and moved as needed
by both vehicle transportation company and dealer
personnel.
The IOD fuse is removed from PDC fuse cavity #15
when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant.
Dealer personnel must install the IOD fuse when the
vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to
restore full electrical system operation. Once the
vehicle is prepared for delivery, the IOD function of
this fuse becomes transparent and the fuse that has
been assigned the IOD designation becomes only
another Fused B(+) circuit fuse. The IOD fuse serves
no useful purpose to the dealer technician in the service
or diagnosis of any vehicle system or condition,
other than the same purpose as that of any other
standard circuit protection device.
The IOD fuse can be used by the vehicle owner as
a convenient means of reducing battery depletion
when a vehicle is to be stored for periods not to
exceed about thirty days. However, it must be
remembered that removing the IOD fuse will not
eliminate IOD, but only reduce this normal condition.
If a vehicle will be stored for more than about thirty
days, the battery negative cable should be disconnected
to eliminate normal IOD; and, the battery
should be tested and recharged at regular intervals
during the vehicle storage period to prevent the battery
from becoming discharged or damaged.
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:19 AM
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Yes, no fuse
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:25 AM
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Thx. Just bought a 50a fuse to replace the IOD fuse, also a 10a to replace #24. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:49 AM   #10
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The Jeeps computers cannot actually determine if a fuse is in place. I assume the PCM is detecting power on a specific pin that a wire comes in. If there is no power, the PCM or Instrument Cluster is showing that message.

The 2 fuses mentioned above should be looked at but just cause the fuse is good doesn't mean power is coming into the fuse. Take a test light (or DVOM), clamp it to battery negative. Each fuse should have little holes on the top that allow you to touch each leg of the fuse. Take your test light point and touch each leg of the fuses mentioned above. Do you have power coming into each of of the fuses?

If you don't, you need to backtrack on that wiring diagram where the power comes from. If you do, then you need to track down where those circuits get to the computer.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:00 AM   #11
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Incidentally. A Week or Old battery can cause all kinds of Gremlins in the electrical department. Problems you wouldn't think that it could possibly cause. Also the battery cables and ground wires and connections are another head shaking problem. These should all be checked first.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:17 PM
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Ok, here’s what I’ve done today,
Charged the battery overnight
Replaced the IOD fuse and fuse #24
Checked all fuses with my light saber, sorry, tester. All good and receiving power thru the PDC.
Have tested the circuit #24 wire (pink with white stripe) from the PDC to the big connector on the firewall with my test light. Have juice in the wire.
Still have the problems. no FUSE message, no power to radio, dome light, under hood light. No power with key in the accessory position. New information! I plugged my code reader in under the dash and got nothing, no power, no codes.
My plan is to continue chasing the circuit #24 wires.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:28 PM
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Also, my instrument cluster is working.
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Old 10-11-2019, 08:13 PM
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Hi Rubi, I've been working on the #24 circuit with no success. I replaced the IOD and #24 fuses. I have power coming out of the PDC on the #24 wire, Pink/White . The under hood light is dead. The Data Link Connector is dead and everything else on circuit 24. I check the Pink/White wire on the back of the Instrument Cluster and there is no voltage. I've also replaced the ignition switch to try to get power on the ACC key position. That didn't fix it. Any suggestions on what I should try next? Appreciate it!
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:19 PM   #15
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If you do not have 12v power to the under hood light (or anything past there) you have to look between the PDC & the splice point for the under hood light which is in the kick panel. That is C-108 & no power there will mean everything in that circuit will be dead (see diagram I posted above).

I would start by lifting the PDC & follow the pink/white wire from the fuse 24 terminal outward, paying attention to the terminal crimp point & then looking for wire damage. After the PDC the next likely place for damaged harness/wiring is where the harness passes close to the battery. Look for potential damage from battery acid exposure. You just have to find where you are losing the power. You can carefully probe with your test light the insulation of that wire along the way to see where it goes away if you can’t see visual damage. I don’t really like recommending this since those piercings can allow corrosion & future problems but sometimes that is the only way. If you do that, be sure to seal those openings with something like liquid electrical “tape” after testing.

How are you determining you have no acc power?



You should only have that to fuses 13, 14 & 15 in the fuse block. If you have no power to them in acc but do in on (run) position it has to be an ignition switch problem assuming the key is turning the switch to that position. I see you have replaced the switch but there is only one wire running from switch to fuse block (see diagram below) so same wire powers those 3 fuses in both run & acc positions. You can remove the switch from the actuator with the connector still plugged in & turn the switch with a screwdriver to be sure you are actually getting back to the acc position.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:20 PM   #16
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I see your other thread but only posting answer here.
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Old 10-12-2019, 07:02 AM
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Thank you Rubi! I really appreciate your help. I will work on it today and let you know how it goes.
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Old 10-12-2019, 03:09 PM
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SUCCESS! Burnt broken wire in the wire bundle right next to the battery. 12 inches from the PDC. Right where Rubi predicted. You're the man! fixed the wire with a heat shrink butt connector. All of circuit 24 working. Many thanks for all of the help. Very grateful.

Still working on the ignition switch issue.
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