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Old 12-02-2019, 09:33 AM
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OPDA - Just change it?

I'm at 93k on the clock. OPDA looks OEM... Is this something that most 4.0 owners just change after XXXXX miles? 50k? 100k? Just do it no matter what?

Seems the Crown is the preferred replacement? $86 from Summit?

So, further research shows the Crown is actually slightly different than OEM and shouldn't need to periodic replacement that the OEM does. Confirm?

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Old 12-02-2019, 10:17 AM   #2
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Changed mine at 8200 miles. The shaft was blue from overheating. Some people have better luck.
Remove yours and look at it.
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:29 AM
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The search function is pretty annoying... But I found a few more threads with info. I'm just going to order it up and put it in.

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Old 12-02-2019, 11:34 AM   #4
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Whatever you do, if you replace the OPDA don’t not toss your original cam sensor. The replacement ones including the new ones from dealers are prone to throwing codes & sending the engine into limp mode. If that happens, you can put the old one into the Crown OPDA. That has solved virtually all sensor issues.
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Old 12-02-2019, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBI 4 MY MRS View Post
Whatever you do, if you replace the OPDA donít not toss your original cam sensor. The replacement ones including the new ones from dealers are prone to throwing codes & sending the engine into limp mode. If that happens, you can put the old one into the Crown OPDA. That has solved virtually all sensor issues.
Good info! Seems like I would want to put the OEM sensor in and keep the new one as a spare.
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Old 12-02-2019, 12:20 PM   #6
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Good too but I would at least try it with the new one to know if it is good or not. Most that do fail seem to either be bad from the start or fail early on. And certainly not all fail at all.

Nice to know if your “spare” in good or not…
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:37 PM   #7
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I was over 180k on mine when I replaced the OPDA with a new Crown unit. The gear teeth had some wear, but didn't look like anything was going to blow up. The flat bladed tooth on the bottom (that engages the oil pump) did have pretty noticeable wear. Enough possibly create some play between where the sensor said the cam was vs. where it actually was. It was, at the very least, contributing to some clatter coming from the engine bay.

I had trouble pulling the OEM factory sensor out of the old unit and was in a bit of a hurry to just get it done (it is my daily). It ran fine with the new sensor, in the new OPDA, for a little while. The I started getting misfire codes. I put the old sensor into the new OPDA and I have been running fine ever since.

I did keep the old OPDA and the new sensor as my spare. It may not be perfect, but if something on the new on craps out... I can pop it back in and run for a few days while waiting on new parts to come in.

Everything seems to be running pretty stable for over a year now.
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Old 12-02-2019, 07:13 PM   #8
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Just do it. Easy insurance. Peace of mind. Not too expensive.

I waited and waited until one day before an expensive two day trip, I packed up the Jeep, turned the key and it was HOWLING at me out of no where. No warnings. Trip canceled, money lost. From what I could see, no motor damage though.

Turned out to be the OPDA. This was at about 104k on the motor.
Bought a crown replacement, kept the old sensor, and did the replacement myself. It’s fine now. It’s not hard, just keep EVERYTHING lined up. Bust out a sharpie and witness mark all you can. I needed a distributor wrench to get the mount off, with some heat and penetration oil too.

Messed up my girlfriends OPDA replacement a month later and had to find top dead center. Wonderful day...
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Old 12-02-2019, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
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Just do it. Easy insurance. Peace of mind. Not too expensive.

I waited and waited until one day before an expensive two day trip, I packed up the Jeep, turned the key and it was HOWLING at me out of no where. No warnings. Trip canceled, money lost. From what I could see, no motor damage though.

Turned out to be the OPDA. This was at about 104k on the motor.
Bought a crown replacement, kept the old sensor, and did the replacement myself. Itís fine now. Itís not hard, just keep EVERYTHING lined up. Bust out a sharpie and witness mark all you can. I needed a distributor wrench to get the mount off, with some heat and penetration oil too.

Messed up my girlfriends OPDA replacement a month later and had to find top dead center. Wonderful day...
Yep, ordered it from Summit already... Also going to change the plugs while on working on that side of the motor. Not expecting it to be difficult.
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Old 12-03-2019, 10:06 AM   #10
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Soaking the bolt on the metal retainer clamp for days did nothing for me. Heating the bolt head to almost glowing made removal easy-peasy for me.

If you have a hard time getting a good wrench on the bolt head, you can make a nice tool by cutting a 1/2" six-point socket in half and welding it to the end of a box wrench. That makes it easy to get on the bolt head in that tight space between the OPDA and the engine block. Six point will give better bite on the flats of the bolt to limit the possibilities of rounding the bolt over. I had a friend make one for me. Worked great!

Photo of what the bolt condition was. It was close to rounding over before I even started! I was lucky. If I was not getting good vibes with a solid grip, I would walk away before I damaged anything. I had to try 5 different times, but finally got the sucker!!!

Heat was the biggest factor in loosening up mine. I was able to turn with my weak hand with just the wrench I made. No extensions needed to apply torque.

Hope yours goes easy!
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Old 12-03-2019, 01:24 PM
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A quick glance at mine and it doesnít look like a wrench has ever touched it. That could be good or bad.... Iíll remember your tips.


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Old 12-03-2019, 01:32 PM   #12
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I did about 5-6 reps of heat and kroil then got it out with a distributor wrench. I wasn’t Taking chances on that bolt especially.

Good luck! Take it easy.
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Old 12-04-2019, 10:10 AM
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2 treatments of knock'er loose so far... New OPDA arrives today. Might see if the bolt is easy and do it tonight. If the bolt isn't coming right out, I'll wait for the weekend.

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Old 12-04-2019, 12:00 PM   #14
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My experience is they can be very tight from the factory so if it has never been out for checking or replaced, the first time can be tough. I see you are in AZ & if your TJ came from that area at least you should not have to deal with rust like some do. Rust & those elements are why I think some are almost impossible to get loose.

There are several videos & recommended instructions on getting it properly aligned which are helpful. It is important to get it “timed” properly. Best is to get it exactly on TDC with the alignment holes lined up or close to lined up (gear wear can cause a slight misalignment). Then put the new one in using the supplied alignment pin. Tighten the bolt down before removing the pin to be sure it does not turn slightly when you tighten it.

It is easier to find the TDC mark if you remove the belt.
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Old 12-05-2019, 05:36 PM
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Damn Fed Ex... Was due on Wednesday, changed to today and now updated to deliver tomorrow. Some shit about the weather... Blah.
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Old 12-07-2019, 08:13 AM
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Got it last night, 30 minutes and done. Was easier than expected... The bolt was tight, but I just tapped the combination wrench with a small hammer and she broke free. Running the OEM sensor and she purrs.

Old one showed very little wear, unlike the plugs which were toast.

Thanks for the help!



Old one...

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Old 12-08-2019, 08:55 AM   #17
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Awesome!
Keep the old OPDA and the new sensor for spares. Just in case you need something to run on in a pinch...

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