Parts List for my 8.8 swap - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-04-2016, 12:13 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Parts List for my 8.8 swap

Hey Guys! I am fairly new to this forum and I recently did an 8.8 swap into my 1999 TJ. I don't do much hard wheeling but my Dana 35 wore out an axle bearing because the spider gears started to chip and wreak havoc. Before I did the swap, I started to research all of the forums and databases about what parts to buy for the swap for over a year. I ran into a bunch of headaches because it didn't seem anyone had ever listed a go to parts list. I am not much of a fabricator so I did my best balancing parts costs and difficulty by making a few lists on how to do it. It would've probably been easier to buy a complete axle from East Coast Gear supply but it would have been out of my price range.I'll also list the links of where I bought the items online. I just wanted to make this list because there didn't seem to be one comprehensive one on the forums yet.

I also did preemptive modifications for the brakes in anticipation for this. I ended up needing an SYE kit because my driveshaft angle was too steep due to my 4 inch lift and 33s.

Parts List:
1.Full Disc Brake Kit from East Coast Gear Supply:$200
(FORD 8.8 DISC BRAKE FULL KIT- PADS, ROTORS, EBRAKE SHOES, LINE KIT, EBRAKE CALES)
The brake kit includes all of the hard lines,soft lines, new inner parking brake shoes, rotors, parking brake line, and brake pads needed. If you are going to use the Artec Truss, you need to specify or the hard lines will be too short.

2. 1310 flange adapter and bolts from Amazon($47)
Flange Adapter(https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-2-2-13...words=2-2-1379)
Bolts(https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Drivesha...JS8B6TFYDY55G6)

3. Artec Truss and Bracket Kit from Summit Racing(350$ plus tax)
(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rte-tr8811)
This was one of the harder decisions I made cost wise for the swap. There were plenty of great bracket kits you can use or you can just buy the brackets separatley. There are cheaper kits from Iron Rock Offroad, RuffStuff, and Barnes 4wd. However, I had heard nothing but good things about Artec and I was able to pick up the kit at the nearby Summit Racing in Atlanta and save on shipping costs.

4.Armored Diff Cover($95)
I was able to get a welded one on ebay. The seller's name was dr.zfabrication I think. He also had the separate plates for 67$ if you are willing to weld them yourself. There is plenty other armored covers out there that you can buy. Solid makes one that I've seen go for less than 80$.

5. 373 Ford 8.8 axle with lsd and calipers from '00 Explorer($110)
I lucked out on the cost for the axle itself. I was able to go to a local pick-n-pull in Atlanta and get the full axle and calipers cheaply. I had seen plenty of builds where it cost $200 or more to get the axle, so I was surprised that I lucked out.

6.Extra Brake Supplies
a. Proportioning Valve from a '03 Rubicon($91)
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
b. Brake Master Cylinder from '00 or '01 Dodge Durango($23)
I heard beforehand that a lot of people had a loss in braking performance after doing the swap. This isn't the case for everyone but I wanted to be safe about it. Many people would either use a Rubicon proportioning valve or upgrade their brake master cylinder. I decided to do both because I wanted better braking if was ever to do larger tires. I was able to get the Master Cylinder from junkyard for cheap. It directly bolts on to the TJ or XJ brake booster. You can also buy a rebuilt one from Napa. You can also use one from a early 2000s Dodge Ram, but there is some modification needed. I bought my prop valve from Amazon, but you can also buy them from the dealership.

This is no one way to do the swap and there is plenty of places where you can save money. You can buy Napa brake lines, stick with the stock diff cover, stock prop valve etc.The swap is more complicated than at first glance, but I hope this list can help some of you start the process.

soapftw is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 07:38 AM   #2
Jeeper
 
TheBoogieman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: CharlottesHELL, Va
Posts: 2,494
Good to know, but not really a tech question.

__________________
03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift/Rancho 9000XL shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/LoD bumpers/Black Magic brakes
99' XJ under construction/ 5.5" lift/ Rancho rs5000x shocks/HP30-8.25/ 33" DC MTs. (JEEP #18).
TheBoogieman is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 09:45 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
Coasttrash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Beach, MS
Posts: 475
this is a great list for a budget swap but there is a sticky at the top of the Tech page. The first page on the first post has a link with just about everything you need to know on how to do the swap.
__________________
Hey whats that rattle? its a Jeep thing

SMTTT!!!
03 TJ sport on some 35s
Coasttrash is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-04-2016, 10:01 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
Dextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 8,397
When I built mine 1-2 months ago, I pretty much bought my parts from the exact sources that you did.

The rotors that came on my 8.8 were almost new, so I just ordered brake calipers, brake pads, and the brake line kit from ECGS.

I also ordered AC Delco e-brake cables from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, I also bought outer axle seals from NAPA for like $10.

I didn't mess with the proportioning valve and I have better than stock stopping power.

Here is the thread that most of us have read:
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/ar...wap-92569.html
__________________
'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
Dextreme is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 02:43 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
freeskier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Littleton
Posts: 2,972
Your extra brake stuff is unnecessary, I'd like to know who those people are claiming worse brake performance. I'm also pretty sure the TJ prop valves are all the same regardless of drums or disks. The stock maser cylinder works just fine, even on something like Blaine's BBK.

I recommend the Solid diff cover because it has the best clearance.
freeskier is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 02:27 AM
Thread Starter
  #6
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Did you have a problem with the driveshaft angle?
soapftw is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 11:24 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
Dextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 8,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by soapftw View Post
Did you have a problem with the driveshaft angle?
I didn't, and I am using the stock slip yoke drive shaft as well as stock control arms. I used an angle finder to determine the angle on the xfer case output shaft, which was 9 degrees. I then set my pinion angle on the 8.8 to 9 degrees. All is smooth.

__________________
'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
Dextreme is offline   Quote
Old 09-09-2016, 07:58 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
batty505's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NoVA
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
I didn't, and I am using the stock slip yoke drive shaft as well as stock control arms. I used an angle finder to determine the angle on the xfer case output shaft, which was 9 degrees. I then set my pinion angle on the 8.8 to 9 degrees. All is smooth.
I'm looking to doing the same thing.
Can you provide a write up on the axle pull itself?
There's plenty of YouTube vids out about what to look for, but none that actually walk you through pulling the axle.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
batty505 is offline   Quote
Old 09-09-2016, 10:36 AM   #9
Jeeper
 
Dextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 8,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by batty505 View Post
I'm looking to doing the same thing.
Can you provide a write up on the axle pull itself?
There's plenty of YouTube vids out about what to look for, but none that actually walk you through pulling the axle.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Are you referring to pulling out the old axle? It really just a matter of jacking the TJ up and getting jackstands under the frame, remove rear tires. Then put a floor jack under the pumpkin of the axle, disconnect the brake line at the hard line on the frame, then start unbolting the driveshaft, trackbar, shocks and swaybar. Then unbolt the control arms.
__________________
'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
Dextreme is offline   Quote
Old 09-09-2016, 02:08 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Are you referring to pulling out the old axle? It really just a matter of jacking the TJ up and getting jackstands under the frame, remove rear tires. Then put a floor jack under the pumpkin of the axle, disconnect the brake line at the hard line on the frame, then start unbolting the driveshaft, trackbar, shocks and swaybar. Then unbolt the control arms.
Yeah that part is easy... The difficulty comes when you try to get all the control arm and trac arms to lineup on the 8.8 so it will track straight....
Blindaviator is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2016, 06:56 AM   #11
Jeeper
 
batty505's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NoVA
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Are you referring to pulling out the old axle? It really just a matter of jacking the TJ up and getting jackstands under the frame, remove rear tires. Then put a floor jack under the pumpkin of the axle, disconnect the brake line at the hard line on the frame, then start unbolting the driveshaft, trackbar, shocks and swaybar. Then unbolt the control arms.
No I meant pulling the salvage yard 8.8.
What tools ya brought, and how it's pulled from the explorer. Lots of vids on 8.8 completed install, not so much with start to finish.
batty505 is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2016, 06:59 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
batty505's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NoVA
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindaviator View Post
Yeah that part is easy... The difficulty comes when you try to get all the control arm and trac arms to lineup on the 8.8 so it will track straight....
Lolz
That's the part I'm looking for..
Once I find out which axle is good, then it's logistics.
How do I pull it, by myself/friends, without making extra work for myself or ruining it for others.
I'll worry about mounting after its pulled! Lolz
Thanks ahead for any information you're willing to share.
batty505 is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2016, 12:11 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by batty505 View Post
Lolz
That's the part I'm looking for..
Once I find out which axle is good, then it's logistics.
How do I pull it, by myself/friends, without making extra work for myself or ruining it for others.
I'll worry about mounting after its pulled! Lolz
Thanks ahead for any information you're willing to share.
Pulling it you can do alone... It is heavy but not so bad you can't drop and move it by yourself... Just have a good floor jack to put under the pumpkin & loosen everything up... Once it gets loose enough it will usually flop right on out (just make sure your toes aren't near it when it does.) Also make sure you have removed the rubber brake line between the axle and body before you start loosening the axle otherwise you risk ripping the line and / or damaging the metal line on the frame...

When it comes to test fitting and final install of the 8.8 you will certainly need help... Several floor jacks and stands will help too... For the test fit you will have to mount it back in the jeep and attach all the control arms and trac bar... Then while it is in that position put a good tack weld on all those brackets so they are lined up properly... Then drop it back out for final welding... And you have to do all that without breaking loose all the tack welds on the rest of the truss...

If you are using the Artec Truss then be sure to follow the directions on what to weld and what not to weld before the final full welding... Several of the brackets float around a bit for adjustment and those are the ones that you will have to tack weld during the test fitting...

It is a lot of work but in the end it is well worth it IMHO...
Blindaviator is offline   Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 01:00 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
LittleBunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by batty505 View Post
Lolz
That's the part I'm looking for..
Once I find out which axle is good, then it's logistics.
How do I pull it, by myself/friends, without making extra work for myself or ruining it for others.
I'll worry about mounting after its pulled! Lolz
Thanks ahead for any information you're willing to share.
When I pulled my 8.8 I used:
sockets (grabbed a range from 10-17mm)
Ratchet
Ratchet combo wrenches (took a metric set)
Channel lock pliers
24" needle nose
Wire cutters
18" breaker bar
24" pry bar
Penetrating fluid
cordless 4-1/2" grinder with cutting wheel
PPE

Honestly I don't really see how someone could easily pull the axle by themselves from a pick and pull. The axle weighs at least 150lb and it would be really awkward to pick it up and move it around alone. Not sure about your situation but the pullit yards around here don't allow you to take in jacks and jack stands would probably be a good idea but you don't know the type of ground you're going to have out in the yard...
Bottom line: bring a buddy

I started with the sway bar. I think there were 2 13mm bolts that fasten each of the two sway bar brackets to the axle

Next, I unbolted the two rear shocks from their axle mounts. Either the nut or the bolt was too big for the sockets I brought so I used pliers and a 15mm socket

Unbolted the shock mounting bracket on the passenger side of the diff (12mm)

Unbolted the driveshaft yolk from the flange. (12point 12mm?). The flange bolts had to be broken with the breaker bar, but the driveshaft spun freely which made this hard to do. I ended up sticking the crowbar into the yolk and jamming it against the ground to break all the bolts.

Unbolted the brake line bracket that was attached to the body behind the gas tank (12mm?). I can't remember where I cut the brake line

Cut the ebrake cable toward the front of the vehicle (tucked under driver side body)

At this point I wanted the unbolt the rear leaf spring bolts but none of the sockets I brought were large enough. Bigger than a 17mm for sure... 20 maybe?

I cut through the 4 u bolts then the bolt on the bottom of each leaf spring that bolts the axle to the spring. Be careful when doing this as the weight of the axle will shoot the u bolts into the ground and the axle will drop a little. It's scary but the leaf springs are still bolted in so the axle won't drop to the ground... Just stay out of the way.

Now you'll be good to pull the axle out. This is where the buddy will really help out.
__________________
PSC XC DeFenders (- Flare), JW Speaker 8700 Evo II, LED Interior Lighting, Fog Light Delete, JKS 1.25" BL, Brown Dog's 1" MML, Silver 15x8 Ecco Wheels, 29" General Grabbers
Captains [Build] Log
LittleBunny is offline   Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 02:52 AM   #15
Jeeper
 
batty505's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NoVA
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBunny View Post
When I pulled my 8.8 I used: sockets (grabbed a range from 10-17mm) Ratchet Ratchet combo wrenches (took a metric set) Channel lock pliers 24" needle nose Wire cutters 18" breaker bar 24" pry bar Penetrating fluid cordless 4-1/2" grinder with cutting wheel PPE Honestly I don't really see how someone could easily pull the axle by themselves from a pick and pull. The axle weighs at least 150lb and it would be really awkward to pick it up and move it around alone. Not sure about your situation but the pullit yards around here don't allow you to take in jacks and jack stands would probably be a good idea but you don't know the type of ground you're going to have out in the yard... Bottom line: bring a buddy I started with the sway bar. I think there were 2 13mm bolts that fasten each of the two sway bar brackets to the axle Next, I unbolted the two rear shocks from their axle mounts. Either the nut or the bolt was too big for the sockets I brought so I used pliers and a 15mm socket Unbolted the shock mounting bracket on the passenger side of the diff (12mm) Unbolted the driveshaft yolk from the flange. (12point 12mm?). The flange bolts had to be broken with the breaker bar, but the driveshaft spun freely which made this hard to do. I ended up sticking the crowbar into the yolk and jamming it against the ground to break all the bolts. Unbolted the brake line bracket that was attached to the body behind the gas tank (12mm?). I can't remember where I cut the brake line Cut the ebrake cable toward the front of the vehicle (tucked under driver side body) At this point I wanted the unbolt the rear leaf spring bolts but none of the sockets I brought were large enough. Bigger than a 17mm for sure... 20 maybe? I cut through the 4 u bolts then the bolt on the bottom of each leaf spring that bolts the axle to the spring. Be careful when doing this as the weight of the axle will shoot the u bolts into the ground and the axle will drop a little. It's scary but the leaf springs are still bolted in so the axle won't drop to the ground... Just stay out of the way. Now you'll be good to pull the axle out. This is where the buddy will really help out.
Thanks!
That helped out a lot.
Dipping my toes into the pick a part stuff. Bought little stuff, visors, and trim/interior, nothing like an axle.
Much obliged for the write up.
batty505 is offline   Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 10:06 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
Dextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 8,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by batty505 View Post
Lolz
That's the part I'm looking for..
Once I find out which axle is good, then it's logistics.
How do I pull it, by myself/friends, without making extra work for myself or ruining it for others.
I'll worry about mounting after its pulled! Lolz
Thanks ahead for any information you're willing to share.
When I got my 8.8 from LKQ Salvage yard for $220 (+$100 core)...they pulled the axle, inspected the gears, ensured it was 4.10 gearing, and loaded it on a pallet. I probably could have saved a $100 by pulling it myself from another yard... but to me it was worth just picking it up and going home to start in on the project. After I got the 8.8 installed, I took my blown d35 back on the pallet and got my $100 credited back.

__________________
'99 Chili Pepper TJ - I4 PowerTech motor
33x12.5 DuraTracs
Zone 4.25"
F8.8/Artec Rear
Dextreme is offline   Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 03:53 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
LittleBunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by batty505 View Post
Thanks!
That helped out a lot.
Dipping my toes into the pick a part stuff. Bought little stuff, visors, and trim/interior, nothing like an axle.
Much obliged for the write up.
NP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
When I got my 8.8 from LKQ Salvage yard for $220 (+$100 core)...they pulled the axle, inspected the gears, ensured it was 4.10 gearing, and loaded it on a pallet. I probably could have saved a $100 by pulling it myself from another yard... but to me it was worth just picking it up and going home to start in on the project. After I got the 8.8 installed, I took my blown d35 back on the pallet and got my $100 credited back.
If you pull it yourself I'd expect to pay a little bit less than Dextreme. OTD I handed over $160 and that included the $60 core fee. I hadn't intended to give them my axle because it works just fine as is and it'll be a slow process for me to build the 8.8, but if you have an axle handy, bring it to them and get your core fee refund because it helps save a couple bucks for sure.
Dextreme got a nice deal; every JY i called wanted to charge ~$360 for an 8.8! That included core but I couldn't see myself paying that much since I wasn't going to get the core refund.

__________________
PSC XC DeFenders (- Flare), JW Speaker 8700 Evo II, LED Interior Lighting, Fog Light Delete, JKS 1.25" BL, Brown Dog's 1" MML, Silver 15x8 Ecco Wheels, 29" General Grabbers
Captains [Build] Log
LittleBunny is offline   Quote
Reply

Tags
8.8 , 8.8 swap , axle swap , parts list

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.