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Old 10-09-2014, 08:23 PM
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Putting the lift on

Im in the middle of installing the rough country 3.25" lift and it wants me to relocate my track bar but my jeep looks nothing like the picture does. It says in the frame right above it but my track bar sits really low. It wouldnt even bend up to the reach the frame. Just wondering if i had to do this. Thanks guys

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Old 10-09-2014, 08:56 PM   #2
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Can you upload a pic of your front end?

Most people on here, myself included, would be to buy the JKS or MetalCloak adjustable trackbar. That way you are not drilling new holes and making the bracket weaker.

This is a pic of my track bar on the passenger side
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by MrBobo View Post
Im in the middle of installing the rough country 3.25" lift and it wants me to relocate my track bar but my jeep looks nothing like the picture does. It says in the frame right above it but my track bar sits really low. It wouldnt even bend up to the reach the frame. Just wondering if i had to do this. Thanks guys
I just took a look at the RC installation instructions online here http://www.roughcountry.com/install/perf641.pdf and they want you to relocate the axle end of the track bar 3/4" to the driver's side. This is common on many of these lifts, but as Skrow suggested, you would be much better off to install a good adjustable track bar in the stock location. TJ/LJ Jeep Wrangler Solid Chromoly Front Track Bar

If you have something that looks different, snap a picture and post it up.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:06 AM
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Nope thats what it looked like. I didn't think of the bracket as frame. But my lift, tires, and rims have me tapped out so how long do you think i could drive with the track bar how it is? I only drive a mile to work and a mile back
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:15 AM   #5
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Not relocating or preferably replacing the tracbar with an adjustable one will shift your front axle and wheels, tires and linkages 3/4in to the driver side with your lift. A lift also requires you to realign the front end toe set (something you can do yourself- many threads on how). If you choose not to relocate or replace and you don't do an alignment, you can probably get away with it for short distances and lowers speeds for a short time, but you will likely be chewing your new tires and handling might be a little squirrely.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:04 AM   #6
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You can probably leave it for a short period of time, but you will still have to do an alignment after you finish installing your lift. Check toe in.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:36 AM   #7
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Dont drill the hole unless you reinforce it, or you can get an adj. bar. Its fine to leave it in the factory location, wont hurt a thing. You do need to reset your toe though. Easily done with string or a couple pieces of sheet metal bent at a 90. The front of the tire should be in 1/16-1/8 from the back of the tire.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:39 PM
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I believe this would be toe out? Its still lifted on the other side so im not 100% sure yet but thats what it looked like when i slipped one of the on for a minute
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:58 PM   #9
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See pics- toe is relative angle between both front wheels. Improper tracbar location will result in improper track.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:13 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by MrBobo View Post
I believe this would be toe out? Its still lifted on the other side so im not 100% sure yet but thats what it looked like when i slipped one of the on for a minute
You need to measure, front of front tires vs rear of front tires should be about 1/16" - 1/8" closer in the front.
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Old 10-14-2014, 01:34 AM
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Another question. Everything is done but after i dropped the transfer case skid plate 1" my trans is shifting different. 2nd, 4th, and reverse are very "shallow". Is this a common problem? I feel like when i drive it is just destroying the teeth on the gears
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:10 AM   #12
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When I did my 1.25" body lift, I had to remove the bezel around the shift boot. Would interfere with the ranges you're talking about.
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:33 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by MrBobo View Post
I believe this would be toe out? Its still lifted on the other side so im not 100% sure yet but thats what it looked like when i slipped one of the on for a minute
The higher you go with the lift the more it will toe in your front tires. Toe settings must be done with the weight of the Jeep on the front axle. Either move the jack stands to the front axle, or put the tires on and set it on the ground. Write up below

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Originally Posted by MrBobo View Post
Another question. Everything is done but after i dropped the transfer case skid plate 1" my trans is shifting different. 2nd, 4th, and reverse are very "shallow". Is this a common problem? I feel like when i drive it is just destroying the teeth on the gears
Pop the plastic bezel off around the shift boot, pull the sift boot up around the shift knob, then using a utility knife slice the foam tube around the shift lever underneath and remove it. Put the shift boot/bezel back in place and you should be good to go.
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:37 AM
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Thanks a lot. I was searching around the forums and didn't see too much on this.
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:25 PM   #15
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Front & Rear Pinion Angle

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The higher you go with the lift the more it will toe in your front tires. Toe settings must be done with the weight of the Jeep on the front axle. Either move the jack stands to the front axle, or put the tires on and set it on the ground. Write up below



Pop the plastic bezel off around the shift boot, pull the sift boot up around the shift knob, then using a utility knife slice the foam tube around the shift lever underneath and remove it. Put the shift boot/bezel back in place and you should be good to go.
I just finished putting the following on my 05 LJ:

3.5" MetalCloak lift (alum. upper CAs both front and rear to simplify adjustment)

Advanced Adapters SYE

Tom Woods double carden drive shaft on rear

UCF ultra high skidplate

I am of the understanding that the pinion angle on the REAR should be parallel or up to 1 degree down, is this correct?

When putting on the UCF skidplate I noticed that the front driveshaft had a double-carden joint, is this stock? This question brings me to my next.

What should my castor be on the front axle in an ideal world, and what should it be set at in the real world taking into account what I have done with my toy?

If I have not given all the information that would be needed to answer the above questions please let me know what further info is needed.

Thanks,

Slim56
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by slim56 View Post
I just finished putting the following on my 05 LJ:

3.5" MetalCloak lift (alum. upper CAs both front and rear to simplify adjustment)

Advanced Adapters SYE

Tom Woods double carden drive shaft on rear

UCF ultra high skidplate

I am of the understanding that the pinion angle on the REAR should be parallel or up to 1 degree down, is this correct?

When putting on the UCF skidplate I noticed that the front driveshaft had a double-carden joint, is this stock? This question brings me to my next.

What should my castor be on the front axle in an ideal world, and what should it be set at in the real world taking into account what I have done with my toy?

If I have not given all the information that would be needed to answer the above questions please let me know what further info is needed.

Thanks,

Slim56
Your rear pinion angle should be pointing at the back of your transfer case. It is doubtful that you will have much axle wrap with the MC duroflex joints, so If it were me, I would start with the pinion angle and the driveshaft angle the same. Worst case, you may wind up having to lower the pinion angle by a degree or two.

The front double cardan drive shaft is stock.

In the front, your pinion angle will take precedence over your caster angle to a point. The idea is going to be to maintain as much caster as you can without getting vibes coming from too little pinion angle. The nice thing about the front is that the drive shaft is much longer so a little more forgiving. If you can get 5° of caster and still have a decent pinion angle with no vibes, you're doing good. You could get by with a little less caster, but the less you have, the sqirrelier (is that a word?) it will become and the less it will want to return to center on it's own. I went to a high pinion d30 in the front for that very reason.
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Old 10-14-2014, 02:03 PM
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When going into 2nd the weight(or whatever it is) is hitting the metal where the tub is cut. Should i cut away a little bit of the tub?
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