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Old 02-17-2014, 09:07 PM
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Rear main seal look like this?

So I've watched videos and read instructionals on the rear main seal and the pics/videos I saw had a different looking seal. This is the one I got. Is it the right one? In the videos, the lower half has "ears".

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Old 02-17-2014, 09:13 PM   #2
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I just attempted to replace my Rear main seal as well. The seal I received is the exact same seal as yours. I have an 05 wrangler 4.0L. I read a ton of help articles and did quite a bit of research before doing the install and concluded I could handle it.
BE ADVISED; It is not as simple as it seems. I ran into a bunch of road blocks and ended up having to tow my jeep to the shop. But yes; you have the correct seal. Good luck!

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Old 02-17-2014, 09:14 PM   #3
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Which engine in your TJ

The straight six is two piece the four banger rear main is one piece and requires tranny removal to replace
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:42 PM
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Which engine in your TJ The straight six is two piece the four banger rear main is one piece and requires tranny removal to replace
Sorry, it's the 4.0.
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:43 PM
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I just attempted to replace my Rear main seal as well. The seal I received is the exact same seal as yours. I have an 05 wrangler 4.0L. I read a ton of help articles and did quite a bit of research before doing the install and concluded I could handle it. BE ADVISED; It is not as simple as it seems. I ran into a bunch of road blocks and ended up having to tow my jeep to the shop. But yes; you have the correct seal. Good luck!
Mind sharing the road blocks?

I'm gonna have the oil pan off already for some other things I'm doing so I figured I'd tackle the RMS while I was at it.
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:51 PM   #6
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Sure. I broke the Plastic clip that holds the coolant lines. Did not realize I had to remove the exhaust for this fix. Ended up breaking two heads off the exhaust bolts and had to tow the Jeep to the shop. What I thought would take about 4 hours is going to take 2 days and more money. I'm just disappointed in my failure. Forgive me if I sound a bit negative.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:01 PM
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Sure. I broke the Plastic clip that holds the coolant lines. Did not realize I had to remove the exhaust for this fix. Ended up breaking two heads off the exhaust bolts and had to tow the Jeep to the shop. What I thought would take about 4 hours is going to take 2 days and more money. I'm just disappointed in my failure. Forgive me if I sound a bit negative.
No problem. Yeah I can understand your frustration. My exhaust will also be out of the way too... Thanks for the info. I'll watch for those coolant lines. Hope you got it straightened out.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:04 PM   #8
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If you follow the you tube videos you should not have any issues . Just take your time .
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:46 PM
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If you follow the you tube videos you should not have any issues . Just take your time .
Well I've watched them about 5 times each. Hopefully it'll go smooth.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:17 PM   #10
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Well I've watched them about 5 times each. Hopefully it'll go smooth.
I just did my rear main this past weekend.... It's not difficult just time consuming. Take your time and if you have any trouble give me a shout on here. They don't sell the rear main seals with the ears anymore so what you have is correct. And make sure you get some Mopar engine sealant.. Just explain to them what you are doing and they should give you the correct thing. I asked for anaerobic sealer like it calls for but they had nothing of the sort.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:01 AM
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They don't sell the rear main seals with the ears anymore so what you have is correct.
Thanks for answering this. I was still confuse about that.

I saw on one video these guys put rtv on the bearing cap, but in another video it wasn't mentioned. I looked through the service manual I have real quick and couldn't find anything on it.

Did you put rtv on the bearing cap?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:43 AM   #12
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When I did mine last summer I just used Locktite 518 it hasn't leaked since. Caution what ever you use, use it sparingly...... this isn't a thing where "the bigger the glob the better the job" and watch the torque on the pan bolts they don't have to be tightened down too much especially around the front of the pan make sure that the pan gasket is in the groove in the rear on the bearing cap take your time and do it methodically.....you will do fine , and by all means you aren't in there that much so buy good quality gaskets. and save yourself the trouble of having to do it over because of a cheap gasket.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:53 AM
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When I did mine last summer I just used Locktite 518 it hasn't leaked since. Caution what ever you use, use it sparingly...... this isn't a thing where "the bigger the glob the better the job" and watch the torque on the pan bolts they don't have to be tightened down too much especially around the front of the pan make sure that the pan gasket is in the groove in the rear on the bearing cap take your time and do it methodically.....you will do fine , and by all means you aren't in there that much so buy good quality gaskets. and save yourself the trouble of having to do it over because of a cheap gasket. Best Rob
Got it. I did see the oil pan bolt/nut torque specs are super low, like less than 20 ft lbs if I recall correctly. I'll be checking the manual for exact numbers when the time comes.

Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:05 AM   #14
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I'm getting ready to put an engine in my 2000 TJ. The seal does not appear to be leaking, but it has 91,000 on it. Would it be a good idea to flip the motor on the stand and do it before I put it in the jeep?
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:07 PM   #15
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So I've watched videos and read instructionals on the rear main seal and the pics/videos I saw had a different looking seal. This is the one I got. Is it the right one? In the videos, the lower half has "ears".
Where did you get that RMS at? I need to replace mine and I've been thinking whether to go with an OEM seal or a Felpro
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:14 PM
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Where did you get that RMS at? I need to replace mine and I've been thinking whether to go with an OEM seal or a Felpro
Fel-pro from advance. They have a 15% off coupon code online. Order online, pick up in store the same day. Got all the gaskets there. Autozone has 20% off right now, I think. Don't know if they carry fel-pro there though.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:14 PM
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I'm getting ready to put an engine in my 2000 TJ. The seal does not appear to be leaking, but it has 91,000 on it. Would it be a good idea to flip the motor on the stand and do it before I put it in the jeep?
It would probably be a safe/good idea since it's be super easy to do.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:19 PM   #18
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Fel-pro from advance. They have a 15% off coupon code online. Order online, pick up in store the same day. Got all the gaskets there. Autozone has 20% off right now, I think. Don't know if they carry fel-pro there though.

Cool beans man!! I was actually going to get the gasket at Advance but it doesn't look like that on the pictures. I hate to bust your bubble man but I have the gasket in my cart for $21.27 and a felpro oilpan gasket for $14.60 at 30% off using "TRT30" from Advance.

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Old 02-18-2014, 12:28 PM
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Cool beans man!! I was actually going to get the gasket at Advance but it doesn't look like that on the pictures. I hate to bust your bubble man but I have the gasket in my cart for $21.27 and a felpro oilpan gasket for $14.60 at 30% off using "TRT30" from Advance.
Son of a!! Haha

That's alright. Maybe I can return them and use that code instead.

I'll be doing the RMS Friday so I'll let you know how it goes. Unless you do yours before.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:49 PM   #20
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Thanks for answering this. I was still confuse about that. I saw on one video these guys put rtv on the bearing cap, but in another video it wasn't mentioned. I looked through the service manual I have real quick and couldn't find anything on it. Did you put rtv on the bearing cap?
Here a very good write up and the one I followed. It calls for the anaerobic sealant or Locktight 518 as said before. I couldn't find either if these so I went with an engine sealant that the parts house recommended I use. You will need to dab some where the upper and lower rear main seals meet and around the mating surfaces of the bearing cap. Also put a dab of bearing grease where the rear main bearing rides... 80ft/lbs on the bearing cap bolts, 35ft/lbs on the brace that runs underneath your crank and 12ft/lbs on the oil pan bolts... Be careful not to strip the block where the pan bolts up bc the PO did this to my jeep and I had to tap new threads into it.
The write up link
http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:17 PM   #21
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One recommendation I would make is to buy 2 or 3 seals and have them on hand before you start. They are extremely easy to cut as you are putting them in. I ended up driving 30 miles in a really heavy snow storm to get another one because of that. You can always take them back if you don't use them.

Also, getting the top half of the old seal out can be a bear and a little frightening trying not to mar anything.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:49 PM   #22
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Son of a!! Haha

That's alright. Maybe I can return them and use that code instead.

I'll be doing the RMS Friday so I'll let you know how it goes. Unless you do yours before.
Any news on the RMS? I cheated and took mine in to a family friend's shop. He charged me $130 which I think was a good deal. Although it took him a few hours, this goober cut my cats off and welded them back on since he didn't have a socket that would fit to remove a bolt on the exhaust Which I find very odd since my jeep is like brand new in the undercarriage and everyone who posted write-ups don't mention anything about having issues removing a bolt with the 15mm socket. He said he couldn't drop the pan with the exhaust into place. Anywho, jeep is out and I'll be out there to pick it up tomorrow. I hope I don't end up with a screwed up exhaust and an oil leak.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:07 AM
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Any news on the RMS? I cheated and took mine in to a family friend's shop. He charged me $130 which I think was a good deal. Although it took him a few hours, this goober cut my cats off and welded them back on since he didn't have a socket that would fit to remove a bolt on the exhaust Which I find very odd since my jeep is like brand new in the undercarriage and everyone who posted write-ups don't mention anything about having issues removing a bolt with the 15mm socket. He said he couldn't drop the pan with the exhaust into place. Anywho, jeep is out and I'll be out there to pick it up tomorrow. I hope I don't end up with a screwed up exhaust and an oil leak.
Yeah I got it swapped. Definitely needed the exhaust moved out of the way, I tried dropping the pan with the exhaust still on and it didn't work.

Also, I had all nuts and 1 stud, unlike most of the other tutorials I watched.

And it seems like my exhaust deformed after being out for a while because it didn't go in as smoothly as I think it should. Seemed like the cats were pointed towards each other, had to pry them apart as I went to mount them back up.

I probably did it wrong and it will probably leak.

At least that's how I feel after all my turbo troubles.

Did I mention I chipped, no, broke a tooth with some slip joint pliers when it came rocketing off a damn spring clamp? Well I did.

Something tells me I should give up. Haha
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:20 AM   #24
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I had many studs. Dropped my pan without messing with exhaust. Have a t case drop too. Don't know if it mattered clearance wise. Can't wait to see your turbo.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:25 AM
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I had many studs. Dropped my pan without messing with exhaust. Have a t case drop too. Don't know if it mattered clearance wise. Can't wait to see your turbo.
Interesting. Mine is a 2006.

Hopefully I'll get it all finished tomorrow...
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:36 AM   #26
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How'd it go? Just finished my RMS today. Top seal was a booger to get out. Had to loosen a few more caps to give the crank some play. Also, two of the 10mm exhaust flange bolts snapped after an hr of attempting everything under the sun to loosen them. I was repealing the down pipe and cats anyway though so it all worked out. Just had to grab some new bolts. Would like to try the Stage8 bolts to secure the exhaust to the header.
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:01 AM
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I've been working since I fixed it. I'll crawl under there and see if it's leaking. Like I said though, it probably is. Because that's my luck.

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