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Old 03-27-2016, 10:21 PM
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Rear shock bolts = Nightmare BDS 2" lift

Fellow local jeeper and I worked on installing a BDS 2" lift onto my wife's 06 LJ. My wifes jeep does not have very much rust at all, and I sprayed down all the bolts every 3 days or so for two weeks before starting on it.

it went smoothly...NOT

We started by cracking loose all the lug nuts. Jacking up the rear and placing stands onto the frame. Pull of rear wheels
passenger side rear shock lower bolt came right out. Attempted to remove first upper bolt. Snapped...great...
second bolt...rounds off first try...even better
move onto drivers side lower. No problem.
drivers side bolt outside comes right out.
drivers side bolt inside breaks off...F me 3 out of 4

there is so little room up there to work especially the passenger side with the exhaust in the way. We tried to break off the shock to try and get at the rounded off bolt...shock breaks but leaves the "cup" part and the bar pin still attached. Wonderful.

Decide to go to the fronts instead for a while.

front stuff all zipped right off no problem. It helps to remove the lower sway bar bolts to get more flex when removing and installing the springs. Careful of the brake lines being stretched.

Front shocks look like a PITA but there is a simple trick to getting them off. We tried to put vice grips onto the shaft and notching it to keep it from spinning when removing the top nut...total PITA.

Here is the trick. Unbolt the bottom bolts and yank that sucker straight towards you out of the fenderwell. It snaps right off, suprisingly easy. The top portion just falls out. Did that for both sides. Buddy called us with the ip having done multiple lifts this way. Never failed. Go figure

SO after 5 hours Day 1 we have front done, no rear shocks and new rear springs. Wife did not like the bouncy ride home 1 hr.

Day 2... tried drilling out one bolt. Got about 75% done and it just started eating any kind of bit I tried. Total PITA.
tried to center punch the bolt and hoping to break off the tack welded nut on the top side of the frame....nope. Kinda hard to do this sorta work in my 1 car garage on the floor.
pulled inner fender well to try and get to the nuts on top. Chisel + hammer for an hour did nothing but mess up the nut a little.
Magically all 11 body mounts broke free easily. Lifted the body about 4" off the frame for more room. More Hammer + chisel...nothing.
Tried putting vice grips on the top part of the nut...nothing
Rented a demolition hammer from Home depot...nothing
not much room for a grinder and the gas tank was inches away.

I hear everyone having luck with the chisel method. Her jeep must of had a overzealous welder that day.

Unless you have a full shop with a lift to do this...DONT.

whoever designed this setup should be

probably had a desk next to the who designed the OPDA

Rant over...dropped it off at the shop down the street. Let them deal with it.

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Old 03-28-2016, 08:55 AM   #2
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When I sheared mine off, i went up through the hole for the bar pin with a Dremel + large cutoff wheel and cut most of the way through the tacked nut. After that an air chisel took them right off and i replaced with washers/nuts.

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Old 03-28-2016, 09:30 AM   #3
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What were you using, just hand tools? I had zero problems using my impact.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:32 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by C.L. View Post
When I sheared mine off, i went up through the hole for the bar pin with a Dremel + large cutoff wheel and cut most of the way through the tacked nut. After that an air chisel took them right off and i replaced with washers/nuts.
I did the same. There is no body lift on my Jeep, nor do I run inner fenders. So I notched the body where the bolts are for the rear upper mounts so I can fit a wrench in to reach the tops of the bolts. Wasn't too bad.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badcompanyftw View Post
Unless you have a full shop with a lift to do this...DONT.

whoever designed this setup should be

probably had a desk next to the who designed the OPDA

Rant over...dropped it off at the shop down the street. Let them deal with it.
dont give up yet, many people have faced this problem.

air hammer and punch from the bottom, air hammer and chisel from the side. the top nuts are just tack welded and should come off without too much fuss
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:28 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Ironhead Jed View Post

dont give up yet, many people have faced this problem.

air hammer and punch from the bottom, air hammer and chisel from the side. the top nuts are just tack welded and should come off without too much fuss
Agreed. Don't let a couple silly nuts beat you down. My first go-round with this, I panicked a bit, but some folks here talked me down. Removed the inner fender and came at it from the side with an air chisel, took all of ten minutes.
Next time wasn't as simple. A bit extreme some would say, but I marked out where the bolts/nuts are on the rear cargo floor. I used a hole saw to remove a 1.5" hole directly over the inboard nut, removed the destroyed weld nut, reassembled everything with nuts/washers/bolts. I then closed the holes with rubber plugs from eBay that match all the others in the floor. Good luck!
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:59 AM
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Yeah it was pretty brutal. Spending 12+ hours over two days trying to get these done. unfortunately I have little time during the week due to work to get any work on it finished. My little one car garage doesn't afford much space or ability to do things. If I had my old garage with compressor and good tools It probably would have gone much easier. Oh well.
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Old 03-28-2016, 03:24 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by C.L. View Post
When I sheared mine off, i went up through the hole for the bar pin with a Dremel + large cutoff wheel and cut most of the way through the tacked nut. After that an air chisel took them right off and i replaced with washers/nuts.
Just did this last week. Only I took the inner wheel well off and cut 1/2" off from where the floor pan is spot welded to the body, also with the dremel. You can do that and not compromise the weld. That 1/2" makes a world of difference.
Later, Steve
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Old 03-28-2016, 03:31 PM   #9
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Reposting to say I cut that 1/2" for a better looksee. Helped a lot,
Later, Steve
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:18 PM
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The shop ended up having to torch them out. Mine were not just tack welded. One side was a giant glob of weld. Only ccharged me $160 to take them out.

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