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Old 06-05-2007, 08:56 AM
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Routine Maintenance ?'s

Hey all! Had an oil change done yesterday from a quick lube type place....just haven't had the time to change it myself. Decided to switch to synthetic. Of course the guy tries telling me regular oil isn't even recommended....but I've been wantin to put synth in it anyways.

He checks the diff fluids and tries to tell me they need to be changed too. Keep in mind my TJ has about 26k miles and is an 04. From what I'm thinking I read in my manual....tranny, transfer case, and diff fluids don't need to be changed for quite some time.

So anyways, at 26-30k miles.....any maintenance items I should be working on? Other than oil changes?

Also, you guys/gals ever notice any improvements from synth fluids.....oil, tranny, diff, etc.?


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Old 06-05-2007, 09:19 AM   #2
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I remember reading somewhere that dino oil is better for our engines then syn (since we have solid lifters). how true that is, I dunno.

My Rubicons manual says to change the diff fluids at 27k, tranny comes much later.

Other than that, your normal 30k in 5k more miles and thats it. Quick lubes make commisions on added services. Take 10 mins on sunday and do it yourself

My question is, How do you legally document maintnance that you did yourself if you have a degree in automotive technology, incase DC wants records for a major warranty claim? Just save receipts and give DC your resume? Have a buddy print out a work order from my old shop?

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Old 06-05-2007, 09:54 AM   #3
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I keep a log book and all receipts. And I mean all. I log date, mileage, what, and keep the receipts. Even gas. I have every drop of gas I put in my vehicles logged and backed up with a receipt. With that and the receipts, there's not a judge in the country that won't back you up.

I will be starting the change to synthetic my next oil change. That will entail a VERY thorough flush, and one change of synthetic blend, then my next oil change will be full synthetic. That will be at 15k. Living where I do, I'll still change the oil & filter every 3k.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:03 AM   #4
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You can certainly change to synthetics. But with your mileage and use, why? If you have had it since new and have maintained it regularly, recommended fluids in your owner's manual are more than adequate for a long engine / driveline life. The modern fluids are more than capable to handle most driving applications. Unless you wheel it or drive it hard, save your money for mods.
If it gives you more peace of mind to run the higher end fluids, go for it.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:45 AM
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Well I've already switched to synth motor oil....kinda a spontaneous moment. So too late to go back now!
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Old 06-05-2007, 03:25 PM   #6
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Synthetic vs. Standard Oil is really a moot point as long as you change it regularly. Any oil these days will stand up for 3k miles.

As far as the diffs go I'd say they are about ready for a change. As far as your axles go having problems in your diffs are probably the most expensive if something goes wrong. Takes 10 minutes each end to change the fluid. I would strongly recommend that you don't pay the Quick Lube place to do it however. For what they charge on a Diff Fluid Change it's like the mob coming to your house for protection money. All they do is suck out the old fluid and replace with new. They don't even break the covers loose and inspect for damage.
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:13 PM   #7
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1blkjp, where should I get new diff cover seals? Dealer, AAP.etc?

Fluid, dealer or other? (Rubi D44s.) need front and rear
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:26 PM   #8
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NAPA; RTV seal[preferable black] (or from flaps)

fluid idn for a rubi, but for my CJ its 40 gear oil i believe of course thats iirc
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Old 06-05-2007, 05:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCS05Rubi View Post
1blkjp, where should I get new diff cover seals? Dealer, AAP.etc?

Fluid, dealer or other? (Rubi D44s.) need front and rear
As debruins stated you can use some standard RTV sealant. I actually use a product called "The Right Stuff" to seal up anything I need to on my rig. You can apply that stuff even to a wet surface and it will seal. Costs a bit more, but it's worth it. A lot of people have also started using a product called Lube Locker. It's an actual gasket that goes on your diff that can be re-used numerous times. They are about 16 bucks a piece, but they alleviate the mess of silicone sealant.

As far as the fluid for your diffs I use 75 weight gear oil in mine, but you might want to check your manual to see what they suggest for use with the Rubicon's air locker setup.
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:19 AM
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Yeah I plan on doing most of my own maintenance....I was just way overdue for an oili change and haven't been able to make the time lately....so I caved and hired a quickie!

So you guys would recommend poppin the diff covers to change the fluid and inspect things while I have them off? I was thinking just draining it and refilling it with the bolts. Gotta look into this I guess....going on a 600 mile each way vacation in a couple weeks and would like to have this out of the way before I leave.

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Old 06-06-2007, 10:33 AM   #11
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Your not really going to be able to pop the fill plug out and change the fluid without a diff pump. Honestly, if your going to take the time to do it yourself, instead of getting robbed and paying someone to do it, just pop the cover off, clean it all out, check the teeth while your in there, and fill it/seal it. Mine as well, and you might notice an issues while your in there that you wouldnt know was there (hopefully not). Those lube lockers are looking real nice. I do not like messing with RTV unless I have to, and since I am going to have the diff covers off ATLEAST every 20k, probably every month or so since I deal with mud/water, i think thats the best route. Thanks for the suggestion 1blkjp
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:39 AM   #12
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dont forget to grease the chassis
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:07 PM
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Any good products for greasing the chassis?

Don't TJ's have a diff drain plug? I haven't crawled underneath it to actually check....but for some reason I'm thinking I read that somewhere.
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:20 PM   #14
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DocG, just go to your local auto parts store and get 1 can of White Lithium Grease (the aresal can kind), 1 Grease Gun (I like pistol grip the best/easiest), and 1 can of your favorite Zerk fitting/chassis grease. I use the Valvoline Synthetic Chassis Grease. Its purple, smells a little odd, but it meets Chrysler specs. You can get cheaper grease, but thats the one I choose because I love Valvoline, and it met chysler standards. I think I paid 15 bucks for the gun, 6 for the grease, and 2-3 for a can of lithium grease.

The lithium grease is your savior, you may even want to get 2 cans (I ALWAYS keep one in the Jeep between the side and rocker). Spray your lithium grease on everything that moves underneigh, front and back. U joints, Steering joints, Shock mounts, UCAs, LCAs, Sway bar bushings etc. That will keep noise down, and keep the rubber lubricated. You can also spray your body mounts to keep them from getting hard prematurely.

Load your grease gun with the grease you choose, and locate your Zerk Fittings. They look like metal nipples on your steering components and Ball joints, almost like bleeder screws. In fact they might be bleeder screws for joints? Anyway, get a good tight seal with your grease gun and zerk fitting, and start pumping grease into your bushings. After 2 or 3 pumps you will start to see the bushings fill with some grease(They will start to bulge..Dont worry about the grease coming out from under the grease gun adapter, just make sure you got a good seal.)

Now when to stop is kind of up to you. I personally dont like to pump it completly full, I think its bad for the bushings. Some do, I dont. I stop when I see the bushing bulging enough that I think its stretched a little past my comfort level. You are supposed to keep pumping untill the grease seeps from the bushing (atleast thats waht I was taught at shops and college) but as I said, I like to stop a little early.

Its not that hard, once you do it and get familiar with it, its a quick process and it will prolong your links and components. I believe there is something like 11 zerk fittings, all in the front, but I cannot remember to be sure. There are a couple that are a little tricky to find, maybe someone can give you a possitive number. I know I couldnt find any in the rear, and I found somewhere above 8 in the front, and I believe it was an odd number.

have fun
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:05 PM
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Thanks for the info! I'll print it off when I get home and make a parts list for the local Auto store.....and get my butt under my Jeep and do some maintenance. Gotta put this darn speedo gear in that I've had sitting around for 3 weeks now too.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:06 PM
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Oh, I got the official Jeep service manual....its the one that is hundreds and hundreds of pages. Surely it'll have all the fittings in it.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:51 PM   #17
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DocG, do me a favor and report back here with how many fittings you found, and if there were any in the rear. I just want to make sure I got me all

Also, that white lithium grease works GREAT on the passenger seat and the door hindges. Keeps the passenger seat folding easily without having to fight it, and it helps make taking the doors in/out MUCH easier. Get 2 cans now that I think about it, you will use it alot
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:30 PM   #18
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DocG, do me a favor and report back here with how many fittings you found, and if there were any in the rear. I just want to make sure I got me all
There are 7 zerk grease fittings in total and they're all on the front end.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:40 PM   #19
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Ok good, thanks Jerry. I coulda swore I found more than that, maybe I just over-exagerated in my head
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Old 06-06-2007, 03:47 PM   #20
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There are 7 zerk grease fittings in total and they're all on the front end.
Jerry while I was reading the rest of this thread I was trying to remember how many grease fittings actually were in a stock jeep. I've got probably double that amount of grease fittings now especially with the dshafts.
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:46 PM   #21
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Jerry while I was reading the rest of this thread I was trying to remember how many grease fittings actually were in a stock jeep. I've got probably double that amount of grease fittings now especially with the dshafts.
Heh, I think my TJ had around 20 zerks at last count until I recently rebuilt the rear CV drive shaft with sealed u-joints eliminating 3 zerks. That's bad enough since several on the control arms and where the drag link meets the tie rod are a nightmare to get to.

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