Rubicon Locker how does the wiring work? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 03-12-2017, 10:19 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 185
Rubicon Locker how does the wiring work?

I'm rebuilding an LJ rubicon and when I got it the owner told me the lockers were not working but though it was wiring or the pumps (I do have a second pump unit but both bench tested ok)

Here is how I think it is supposed to work.. after looking at the wiring diagrams

Push button on dash
Sends signal to PCM to turn on locker
PCM send signal to Air Pump
Air Pump sends air down to Locker
Once Locker is locked it send single to PCM
PCM sends signal back to Air Pump to turn off

Is that the correct?

JeepingNet is offline   Quote
Old 03-15-2017, 11:55 AM
Thread Starter
  #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 185
How does the air pump know when to turn off?

JeepingNet is offline   Quote
Old 03-15-2017, 01:07 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 75
The factory rubi locker air pump is regulated within itself. Send power to the compressor and it runs until it reaches the appropriate pressure, then shuts off. I'm not sure how it interacts with the PCM. I installed the rubi axles and pump on my 98 TJ, so I had no interaction with the PCM.

Edit: My axles and air pump were out of an '03 rubi. I'm not sure if there were variances through the years.
kcmudbug is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-15-2017, 01:25 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
tworley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Morrison, CO
Posts: 4,726
Built in regulators. They only put out 5 psi. No connection to the PCM.
__________________
97' 4.0L - AX-15 - 5.13 HPD30/Rubi44 - Currie 4" SL -1.25" BL - 1" MML - 35s - Bestop HighRock Carrier - JB SSYE - MC F/R CAs - MC F/R TBs - Currie Currectlync - Currie AR - Savvy GTS - Savvy UA - Savvy Shift Cable - ARB RD100/116 - RG&A 4340 Axle Shafts - Superwinch LP8500 - Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers - Poison Spyder Defender XCs - BMB Brakes - Fox 12" Resi 2.0 Shocks -
Colorado Jeep
tworley is online now   Quote
Old 03-16-2017, 11:59 AM
Thread Starter
  #5
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 185
Odd I must have a problem with my pumps. When I plug the hole they just keep pumping don't ever turn off but I'm also not feeling much pressure. Think I'll see what I can take apart and see what is going on inside them.

Connection for the PCM must purely be for the dash lights. Good to know it isn't needed so I can bi-pass the whole wiring and wire up my own switches.
JeepingNet is offline   Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 08:25 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
Dave0559's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 32
I'm having trouble with my 2003 Rubicon lockers sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. I don't know what to do about it.
Dave0559 is offline   Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 08:25 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 31
Check for air leaks,they are very low psi units unlike the ARB's
Make sure pumps are coming on
Firemanjim is offline   Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 09:36 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave0559 View Post
I'm having trouble with my 2003 Rubicon lockers sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. I don't know what to do about it.
I went through 2 sets of pumps, but I also put close to 200k on those axles. I think the pumps were damaged from taking on dirt, etc. At the time, the pump setup was about $160, so I wasn't too upset about it.
kcmudbug is offline   Quote
Old 04-08-2017, 08:21 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
Dave0559's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 32
What brand of pumps did you use?
Dave0559 is offline   Quote
Old 04-09-2017, 01:52 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
JC_Craig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NB, Canada
Posts: 177
I received 2 Rubi pumps, not positive what year they were off though. Both my pumps have 5 wires coming out of the body into a small wire sheath then 3 wires come out the other side of the sheath into a connector. I cut the connector off and slid the wire loom off. There's two pairs of wires spliced together with one wire remaining unspliced. I tested the 3 wires for continuity. Red to black ~12 ohms, Red to Pink ~12 ohms, Black to Pink 0 ohms.

I tried Black to negative and Red to positive 12V and pump ran, then when i blocked the pressure side of the pump it came up to 7 psi and shut off. Unblock the line and it would run until I blocked it again at which point it came up to 7 psi again and shut off. The amp meter showed it also stopped drawing current when it shut itself off. When I removed the 12V power then the air bled itself off back through the pump and psi dropped to 0.

Tried Red positive and Pink negative because Pink and Black are technically the same point electrically as proven by the continuity test, this time the pump started running, when I covered the pressure side though the pump just kept on running, pressure came up slightly above 10 PSI but didn't shut off, the amp meter also started to come up and the pump started to heat.

Tried Red to positive and Black+Pink twisted together to negative and it worked the same way as the Red/Pink combo. I ended up pulling one of the pumps apart as it was seized up which I wasn't surprised about as water ran out of the air ports when I received it. Inside there's a small printed circuit board and a tiny pressure switch. For some reason the Pink wire bypasses the pressure switch and runs back to the wiring harness and presumably to the ECM.

I built my own circuit for turning the lockers on and off as I installed a Rubi rear in my sport that came stock with a D35. I have an aftermarket fuse panel that I wired in myself and it's controlled by the switched ignition. Fed power from fuse panel to a lit toggle switch, switched power I sent to the pumps Red lead, black on the pump I tied to ground and pink I taped up. The ground lead for the toggle switch I sent to the rear end and went through contacts for the "locked" switch then back up to the frame and screwed it to the frame to reference it to ground. That way once the locker is physically locked then the light on the toggle switch lights up.

__________________
2003 TJ Sport 5 speed - 4" SL, 1.25" BL, 35's, 5.13 gears, Rubi D44 w/Stock Locker+LS, HP30 w/Spartan
JC_Craig is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.