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Old 03-23-2016, 09:16 PM
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some TJ 911 help :-| front track bar at frame

So the cotter pin broke off in the castle nut. I tried everything but ultimately couldn't get it out.. so I tried to wrench the bolt out but apparently not strong enough to either break the nut itself free or shear the cotter pin.. so I may have done something completely stupid.. I took a cutting wheel to it. Realized after the fact the cutting wheel wouldn't get low enough to cut off the nut... and now there's not enough on it for me to get a socket around it.. I'm not entirely sure what to do here.. picture attached...

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Old 03-23-2016, 09:40 PM   #2
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Looks like enough to still get a socket on? With the majority of the nut gone, it might be easier to break loose. If not, I would take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and grind the nut down to the mount (It would look like a slot going across the top). Be careful though as you have already cut into the mount. You also might try heat on that nut too.

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Old 03-23-2016, 09:45 PM   #3
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I would hit that nut with a chisel and think it would break really quick. If that did not work, a air chisel would make short work of it.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:55 PM
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so the nut came off.. i don't know why I didn't try heat.. probably general frustration and part panic..

but now that stud is stuck and I can't hammer it out for shit
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:23 PM   #5
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so the nut came off.. i don't know why I didn't try heat.. probably general frustration and part panic..

but now that stud is stuck and I can't hammer it out for shit
It's because it's a tapered hole. If you pound down on the threaded side you are deforming it in the taper. The key for removal now is to hit the side of the mounting bracket with a 3 lb hammer or so. Give it a good whack and the stuc should fall right out unless you mushroomed it on the top.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:40 PM   #6
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If whacking it with the hammer doesn't break it loose (after 50 hits)...you can use a Tie Rod End removal tool to get it out. You may be able to get a loaner at auto parts store. It may be hard to get to the top of the tool to apply the torque needed but it's doable. I have had good luck with the hammer.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:47 PM
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So in the end it's all largely together.. Sadly I got confused between the original Teraflex lift kit instructions of drilling a new hole for the oem track bar at the axle vs the RE1600 I ended up going with which didn't require that... And so I now have an over drilled hole for the front track bar at the axle... We'll see how it goes for now.. May ultimately MIG the bolt in place..

Tomorrow I have to go around and torque all of the bolts (front and back) after I secure a 15/16 wrench for the bolt through the heim joint on the track bar.


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Old 03-23-2016, 11:51 PM
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Also thank you to everyone for providing input... I have slowly been doing this 3" Teraflex lift with Bilstein 5100s and Rubicon Express swaybar disconnects and front track bar over the past two months.. Damn near every bolt was seized.. Sockets were broken.. Torches were used.. Kroil sprayed everywhere.. A lot of things had to be cut off.. The end finally felt in sight tonight then this happened...


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Old 03-23-2016, 11:52 PM   #9
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I'm afraid you'll have to address that oversize hole cause there is a lot of side tension applied to that point. When you get movement on track bar you will definitely feel the problem.
I've had the RE1600 for years and never a problem.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:57 PM
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The rear track bar didn't go as planned either.. So I was already planning on taking it to a local off-road shop for some effort and I'm gonna have them look at the front while its there.. I don't plan on ignoring it


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Old 03-24-2016, 12:10 AM   #11
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You could always sell the re trackbar and get a metalcloak, it uses a large hole on the axle side.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:23 AM
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Not a bad idea in itself. But just read their install instructions and they use a 14mm diameter bolt.. So it'd still be nearly 2mm (I used a 5/8 but) smaller than the hole. Probably have shop weld a washer in place to secure the bolt


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Old 03-24-2016, 09:22 AM   #13
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Not a bad idea in itself. But just read their install instructions and they use a 14mm diameter bolt.. So it'd still be nearly 2mm (I used a 5/8 but) smaller than the hole. Probably have shop weld a washer in place to secure the bolt


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Drill it to 5/8" and use a grade 8 5/8" bolt. And you can't use a step drill bit either.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:25 PM
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I may be mistaken but I don't believe that end of the track bar will take a bolt that big


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Old 03-24-2016, 04:29 PM
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Drill it to 5/8" and use a grade 8 5/8" bolt. And you can't use a step drill bit either.

Or did you mean drill out the sleeve?


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Old 03-24-2016, 06:36 PM   #16
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Or did you mean drill out the sleeve?

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No I was talking about if you went with the metalcloak track bar
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Old 03-24-2016, 11:19 PM
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torqued all of the bolts to spec today.. tie rod was seized.. took 20 minutes, a lot of Kroil, and a heavy foot to get the damn thing to turn. Ultimately, the trial drive went well with no death wobble. I think it rides smoother than before as well.

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